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Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mahmut Kayar, Suleyman Ilker Mistik and Deniz Inan

– The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100 percent polypropylene and 100 percent polyester spunbond and meltblown nonwoven fabrics were sewn by using ultrasonic sewing machine with different rollers which have two, three and four rows. Seam tensile properties of the sewn nonwoven fabrics were investigated. Four-Level Nested Anova Design was applied to the data by using Minitab 15 software program.

Findings

Higher seam strength values were obtained by using four rows roller, PP fiber, spunbond fabric and 50 g/m2 fabric area density for all nonwoven fabrics. Statistical significance was found between fabric area density, roller rows and seam tensile strength properties and between fabric type, roller rows and seam elongation at break values.

Originality/value

When the authors look at the studies related to ultrasonic sewing, several researchers studied on welding parameters of ultrasonic sewing but very limited studies were performed on assembling of nonwoven fabrics with ultrasonic sewing. Therefore effect of production methods of nonwoven fabrics on the properties of ultrasonic sewing such as seam strength and elongation at break should be investigated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 January 2020

Meng Deng, Miao Tian, Yunyi Wang and Min Wang

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of flash fire exposure on the mechanical properties of single-layer thermal protective clothing.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of flash fire exposure on the mechanical properties of single-layer thermal protective clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

The full-scale flame manikin tests were performed to simulate flash fire exposure. Two typical fire-resistant fabrics were investigated. The manikin was divided into seven body parts and the specimens meeting the requirements of tensile and tear strength standards were sampled. Fabric thickness, mass per unit area, tensile strength and tear strength were measured and analyzed.

Findings

The results revealed the significant influence of heat flux on both of tensile and tear strength. However, the regression analysis indicated the low R2 of the liner models. When the tensile and tear strength retention were reorganized based on the body parts, both of the multiple linear regression models for tensile and tear strength showed higher R2 than the one-variable linear regressions. Furthermore, the R2 of the multiple linear regression model for tear strength retention was remarkably higher than that of the tensile strength.

Practical implications

The findings suggested that greater attention should be paid to the local part of human body and more factors such as the air gap should be considered in the future thermal aging of firefighters’ clothing studies.

Originality/value

The outcomes provided useful information to evaluate the mechanical properties of thermal protective clothing and predict its service life.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 May 2013

Yongrong Wang and Peihua Zhang

This study aims to clarify the key factors among physical‐mechanical properties of fabrics in relation to the dynamic pressure performance of compression garment.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to clarify the key factors among physical‐mechanical properties of fabrics in relation to the dynamic pressure performance of compression garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The physical‐mechanical properties of 16 different fabrics were measured using a KESF standard evaluation system and INSTRON tensile tester, and the garment pressure was measured by dynamic pressure measuring system. Grey correlation analysis is used to determine the correlation degree of fabric physical‐mechanical properties and dynamic pressure magnitude.

Findings

The mechanical behaviors (e.g. tensile, shearing, and bending) and physical characteristics are different in elastic fabrics with varied content of elastic fiber, kinds of yarn, et al. Grey correlation analysis is a valid method to analyze the indices of a system, quantize them and put them in order. All the degrees of Grey correlation are more than 0.6. The degree of grey correlation between tensile force (F), shearing rigidity (G) and bending rigidity (B) are higher than others, hence it is conducted that these would significantly effect on garment pressure. The quantitative regression equations between pressure magnitude at extension of 50 percent and the individual key parameters (mean values in wale and course directions) of tested samples are illustrated.

Research limitations/implications

The other parameters (e.g. fabric structure, yarn fineness, and pre‐tension, et al.) should be taken into account. Further, an integrative mathematic model would be established, which could predict the garment pressure directly from the physical‐mechanical properties of fabric.

Originality/value

The present study indicates that pressure magnitude of elastic fabric is an integrative action performed by physical‐mechanical properties. The developed illustrative equations and method offer a rational and practical tool for assessing pressure functional performance of elastic fabric in the stages of design and product development.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 July 2020

Desalegn Atalie and Gideon Kipchirchir Rotich

For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant feelings…

Abstract

Purpose

For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant feelings because they have a direct influence on human psychological satisfaction, health and work efficiency. The purpose of this study is to investigate the impact of cotton fiber parameters on the sensorial comfort of woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Four types of cotton fiber with different fineness, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, strength and elongation were used to develop yarns used to weave fabric samples. Kawabata evaluation system (KES) was used to analyze the fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

Findings

Results showed that cotton fiber parameters have a significant effect on surface friction and roughness properties. Low stress tensile, tensile resilience and tensile strain properties were affected by fiber micronaire, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, fiber strength and elongation. However, fabric shear, bending and compression properties were least dependent on fiber parameters. The correlation of the dependent variable and the independent variable was also statistically analyzed and reported. From the results, it was shown that cotton fiber parameters play a significant role in woven fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

Originality/value

The cloths that are in contact with the skin can be developed using the results of these studies to feel pleasant. This will, in turn, have a direct effect on the customer's psychological satisfaction, health and work performance.

Article
Publication date: 12 May 2020

Reyhaneh Kamali, Yasaman Mesbah and Fatemeh Mousazadegan

The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.

Findings

The obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.

Originality/value

The consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 April 2020

Xuzhong Su and Xinjin Liu

Tensile property is one basic mechanics performance of the fabric. In general, not only the tensile values of the fabric are needed, but also the dynamic changing process under…

134

Abstract

Purpose

Tensile property is one basic mechanics performance of the fabric. In general, not only the tensile values of the fabric are needed, but also the dynamic changing process under the tension is also needed. However, the dynamic tensile process cannot be included in the common testing methods by using the instruments after fabric weaving.

Design/methodology/approach

By choosing the weft yarn and warp yarn in the fabric as the minimum modeling unit, 1:1 finite element model of the whole woven fabrics was built by using AutoCAD software according to the measured geometric parameters of the fabrics and mechanical parameters of yarns. Then, the fabric dynamic tensile process was simulated by using the ANSYS software. The stress–strain curve along the warp direction and shrinkage rate curve along the weft direction of the fabrics were simulated. Meanwhile, simulation results were verified by comparing to the testing results.

Findings

It is shown that there are four stages during the fabric tensile fracture process along the warp direction under the tension. The first stage is fabric elastic deformation. The second stage is fabric yield deformation, and the change rate of stress begins to slow down. The third stage is fiber breaking, and the change of stress fluctuates since the breaking time of the fibers is different. The fourth stage is fabric breaking.

Originality/value

In this paper, the dynamic tensile process of blended woven fabrics was studied by using finite element method. Although there are differences between the simulation results and experimental testing results, the overall tendency of simulation results is the same as the experimental testing results.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2001

P. Mamalis, A. Andreopoulos and N. Spyrellis

Some of the basic mechanical characteristics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of cotton knitted fabrics after a durable flame‐retardant…

Abstract

Some of the basic mechanical characteristics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of cotton knitted fabrics after a durable flame‐retardant finishing, were studied by the objective‐evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niva using the KES‐F system. In addition, properties such as bursting strength, drape and sewability were studied in order to further explore the influence of this treatment on the fabrics. All treated fabrics were flame‐retardant but their mechanical properties showed changes as a result of the above finishing. More specifically, a significant reduction in the bending and shear properties was recorded, which suggests that the flame‐retardant finishing primarily affects the above characteristics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2022

Senthil Kumar B., Anita Rachel D. and Sentil Kumar C.B.

Eri silk fiber has superior thermal insulation behavior, better softness than cotton fiber. However, Eri silk’s use in the commercial arena has not yet taken off. The purpose of…

Abstract

Purpose

Eri silk fiber has superior thermal insulation behavior, better softness than cotton fiber. However, Eri silk’s use in the commercial arena has not yet taken off. The purpose of the study is to explore the comfort properties of the fabric, which enhances the commercial acceptance of Eri silk clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

In this investigation, three different single knit Eri silk structures were produced with different loop lengths and yarn counts to analyze the influence of process variables on low-stress mechanical properties. To execute the research work, Eri silk spun yarn of three different linear densities (15 tex, 20 tex, 25 tex) were chosen. Three different knitted structures were produced, such as single jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, and two different loop lengths were also selected.

Findings

The cellular blister structure has shown appreciable low-stress properties next highest position was attained by the popcorn structure. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the low-stress properties.

Research limitations/implications

The findings of this research will contribute to a greater awareness of Eri silk knitted fabric and its process parameters in relation to its commercial utility.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the low-stress properties of Eri silk-based thermal clothing.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mouna Gazzah, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe and Faouzi Sakli

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach

To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.

Findings

According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.

Practical implications

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.

Originality/value

This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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