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Article
Publication date: 12 January 2024

Amanpreet Kaur Kharbanda, Kamal Raj Dasarathan, S.K. Sinha, T. Senthil Kumar and B. Senthil Kumar

Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study…

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Abstract

Purpose

Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study aims to investigate the comfort and mechanical properties of these woven materials.

Design/methodology/approach

Taguchi L16 experimental design (5 factors and 4 levels) with response surface methodology tool was used to optimize mechanical and comfort characteristics. The yarn samples used in this study are cotton/banana with a blend ratio of 70:30. Fabric type (A), grams per square metre (GSM; B), yarn count (C), fabric thickness (D) and cloth cover factor (E) are the chosen process characteristics.

Findings

The highest tensile strength and tearing strength of the cotton/banana blended fabric samples were obtained as 326.3 N and 90.3 k.gf/cm, respectively. Similarly, the highest thermal conductivity and overall moisture management capacity values were found to be 0.6628 and 3.06 W/mK X10−4, respectively. The optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum mechanical properties were using canvas fabric structure, 182 GSM, 36s Ne yarn count, 0.48 mm fabric thickness and 23.5 cloth cover factor. Similarly, the optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum comfort properties were achieved using a twill fabric structure, 182 GSM, 32s Ne yarn count, 0.4 mm fabric thickness and 23 cloth cover factor.

Originality/value

In contrast to synthetic fabrics, banana fibre and its blended materials are significant ecological solutions for apparel and functional clothing. Products made from banana fibre are a sustainable and green alternative to conventional fabrics. Banana fibre obtained from the pseudostem of the plant has an appearance similar to ramie and bamboo fibres. Numerous studies showed that banana fibre could absorb significant moisture and be spun into yarn through ring and rotor spinning technology. On the other hand, this fibre can be easily combined with cotton, jute, wool and synthetic fibre. The present utilization of pseudostem of banana plant fibre is very minimal. This type of research improves the usability of bananas their blended fabrics as apparel and functional wear.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 March 2018

Wasif Latif, Abdul Basit, Zulfiqar Ali and Sajjad Ahmad Baig

The purpose of this paper is to study the 100 percent pure cotton and 50:50 cotton and regenerated fibers (tencel, modal, bamboo, viscose) blends. The blends of regenerated fibers…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to study the 100 percent pure cotton and 50:50 cotton and regenerated fibers (tencel, modal, bamboo, viscose) blends. The blends of regenerated fibers with cotton are studied so as to replace 100 percent cotton fabrics with the cotton blends as cotton cannot fulfill the demand of clothing due to the increasing population.

Design/methodology/approach

In order to conduct this study, cotton, as natural cellulose fiber, was used. Regenerated fibers include viscose, tencel, modal and bamboo. Five yarn samples of Ne 30/1 of 100 percent cotton and blends (50:50) of cotton with tencel, modal, bamboo and viscose fibers were produced. The blending was done in the Blow-room, and yarn samples were produced by employing the ring spinning technique. Plain woven fabrics samples with Ends (76) and Picks (68) per inch of 120 gsm were prepared. The fabric samples were tested for mechanical (warp and weft tensile and tear strengths) and comfort properties (air permeability, moisture management and thermal resistance).

Findings

Cotton:tencel fabric has the excellent mechanical (tensile and tear strength) as well as comfort properties (air permeability, moisture management and thermal resistance). It means that the most suitable blend that cotton can make with the regenerated fibers is the tencel. Therefore, to have more comfortable fabrics, the fabrics which are being made by 100 percent cotton can be replaced with the cotton:tencel.

Originality/value

To the authors’ information, no study has been reported in which all the regenerated fibers blended with cotton were studied. Hence, the aim of this work is to study the mechanical and comfort properties of the regenerated fibers (modal, tencel, viscose and bamboo) blended with cotton. The blends of cotton with regenerated fibers might replace 100 percent cotton in clothing applications as cotton cannot fulfill the increasing demanding of clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 May 2018

Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

Design/methodology/approach

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Findings

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

Originality/value

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 November 2017

Zhou Rongmei and Qin Xiaoxuan

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.

Design/methodology/approach

First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.

Findings

For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.

Originality/value

In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 April 2020

Xuzhong Su and Xinjin Liu

Tensile property is one basic mechanics performance of the fabric. In general, not only the tensile values of the fabric are needed, but also the dynamic changing process under…

132

Abstract

Purpose

Tensile property is one basic mechanics performance of the fabric. In general, not only the tensile values of the fabric are needed, but also the dynamic changing process under the tension is also needed. However, the dynamic tensile process cannot be included in the common testing methods by using the instruments after fabric weaving.

Design/methodology/approach

By choosing the weft yarn and warp yarn in the fabric as the minimum modeling unit, 1:1 finite element model of the whole woven fabrics was built by using AutoCAD software according to the measured geometric parameters of the fabrics and mechanical parameters of yarns. Then, the fabric dynamic tensile process was simulated by using the ANSYS software. The stress–strain curve along the warp direction and shrinkage rate curve along the weft direction of the fabrics were simulated. Meanwhile, simulation results were verified by comparing to the testing results.

Findings

It is shown that there are four stages during the fabric tensile fracture process along the warp direction under the tension. The first stage is fabric elastic deformation. The second stage is fabric yield deformation, and the change rate of stress begins to slow down. The third stage is fiber breaking, and the change of stress fluctuates since the breaking time of the fibers is different. The fourth stage is fabric breaking.

Originality/value

In this paper, the dynamic tensile process of blended woven fabrics was studied by using finite element method. Although there are differences between the simulation results and experimental testing results, the overall tendency of simulation results is the same as the experimental testing results.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Iwona Frydrych and Małgorzata Matusiak

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density, weave

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density, weave and a way of finishing. It shows how the mentioned properties influence fabric formability and analyze a statistical significance of investigated relationships.

Design/methodology/approach

In paper two groups of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics of different structure and a way of finishing have been measured in the range of their basic structural properties as well as bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Formability of investigated fabrics has been calculated on the basis of bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Next, ANOVA has been performed in order to analyze the relationships between the weft density, weave and a way of finishing of woven fabrics and their formability.

Findings

The paper shows that all selected properties of woven fabrics significantly influence their formability as well as that there is statistically significant interaction between mentioned independent factors. It provides empirical results confirming that the influence of raw material composition of investigated cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics on the formability of fabrics is statistically insignificant.

Research limitations/implications

Results of investigations can be applied for cotton and cotton-like woven fabrics.

Practical implications

The paper includes implications for woven fabric engineering from the point of view of achieving the expected fabric formability.

Social implications

The results enables the choice of appropriate fabric for the given clothing.

Originality/value

This paper fulfills an identified need to study how the formability of woven fabrics can be shaped by an appropriate selection of their structure and a way of finishing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2023

Fareha Asim, Farhana Naeem and Shenela Naqvi

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This…

Abstract

Purpose

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This study aims to develop reusable and biodegradable mask from 100% regenerated bamboo or/and its blend. Selection of natural and regenerated textile materials is to minimize generation of solid waste. This attempt will eventually protect our earth by minimizing or better discontinuing the production of the disposable nonbiodegradable face masks available worldwide.

Design/methodology/approach

Hundred percent regenerated bamboo and 50:50 bamboo:cotton were selected to knit plain and interlock fabrics for manufacturing of reusable sustainable face masks. A 23 32-mixed-level factorial design was applied to study the effect of liquor ratio and temperatures, fabric structure, blend ratios and finishes at three different levels. Model 23 32 has two factors (liquor ratio and temperatures) at three levels and three factors (fabric structure, blend ratios and type of finish) at two levels. Knitted fabrics were then applied with antibacterial finishes; sanitized T99-19 and sanitized T27-22, separately at three different liquor ratios (1:10, 1:12 and 1:15) and temperatures (45, 55 and 65 °C) via exhaust method. After completing processing, fabric thickness, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, bursting strength, Berger whiteness index, air permeability and antibacterial properties of each trial were evaluated using standard test procedures.

Findings

Selected fabrics treated either by sanitized T27 or sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 against 65 °C, showed excellent bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity. However, 100% regenerated bamboo interlock knitted fabric treated with sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 at 65 °C has the most desired values of dimensional stability, pilling resistance, Berger whiteness, fabric thickness, air permeability and bursting strength which made it the best for the manufacturing of the masks. Reusable mask is comprised of three layers in which the first and the third layers were of selected 100% regenerated bamboo fabric while a PM2.5 filter was inserted in between. Bacterial filtration efficiency, particle filtration efficiency, biocompatibility and microbial cleanliness will be evaluated in future, to compare the performance of proposed reusable and biodegradable face mask with N95 masks and other fabric masks available commercially.

Originality/value

This study resulted in a development of reusable eco-friendly facemask which was not attempted by the preceding investigations. Outcomes of this work pave the way for a greener and safer earth by using easily obtainable regenerated bamboo fabrics, antibacterial finishes and knitted structures.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 June 2019

Agnė Lagė and Kristina Ancutienė

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly.

Design/methodology/approach

For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics.

Findings

It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on.

Research limitations/implications

This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis.

Practical implications

The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing.

Originality/value

The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 March 2020

Sedat Özer, Yaşar Erayman Yüksel and Yasemin Korkmaz

Design of bedding textiles that contact the human body affects the sleep quality. Bedding textiles contribute to comfort sense during the sleep duration, in addition to ambient…

Abstract

Purpose

Design of bedding textiles that contact the human body affects the sleep quality. Bedding textiles contribute to comfort sense during the sleep duration, in addition to ambient and bed microclimate. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the effects of different layer properties on the compression recovery and thermal characteristics of multilayer bedding textiles.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, woven and knitted multilayer bedding textiles were manufactured from fabric, fiber, sponge and interlining, respectively. Different sponge thickness, fiber and interlining weight were used in the layers of samples. Later, the pilling resistance, compression and recovery, air permeability and thermal conductivity of multilayer bedding textiles were investigated.

Findings

The results indicated that samples with the higher layer weight and thickness provide better compression recovery and lower air permeability properties. It was also found that knitted surfaces show the higher air permeability than the woven surfaces depending on the fabric porosity. Layer properties have insignificant effect on the thermal conductivity values.

Originality/value

While researchers mostly focus on thermal comfort properties of garments, there are limited studies about comfort properties of bedding textiles in the literature. Furthermore, compression recovery properties of bedding textiles have also a great importance in terms of comfort. Originality of this study is that these properties were analyzed together.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 2005

George K. Stylios

Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1024

Abstract

Examines the eleventh published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 17 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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