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1 – 10 of 111S. Inui and T. Yamanaka
States that computer simulations of seam pucker were executed. The simulations were based on the computer program which predicts the shape of virtual fabric with an assumption…
Abstract
States that computer simulations of seam pucker were executed. The simulations were based on the computer program which predicts the shape of virtual fabric with an assumption that the relationship between stress and strain of the virtual fabric is linear. The simulations predicted the shape of fabric with the conditions such as material puckering and mechanical properties of fabric. The rating of simulated seam pucker changes according to material puckering. It was shown that bending stiffness and tensile modulus affect the rating of seam pucker. Seam pucker samples were made from fabric for comparison. Computerised seam pucker samples were executed utilising the same properties and shape of seam line as the sample fabric. A fairly similar shape was obtained by the simulation.
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Reyhaneh Kamali, Yasaman Mesbah and Fatemeh Mousazadegan
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.
Findings
The obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.
Originality/value
The consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.
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Milda Juciėnė and Vaida Dobilaitė
The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.
Design/methodology/approach
Seams pucker defect is specific to garment from lightweight fabrics, therefore the investigation was performed with this kind of fabrics. The structure and friction properties of fabrics were determined. The influence of rotational frequency of the main shaft (varied from 200 till 2,300 min−1) and pressing force (from 25 till 85 N) on seam pucker was analysed. The seam pucker was evaluated by characteristic of sharpness calculated as ratio of pucker height and length.
Findings
Analysis of the obtained results allows stating that pucker sharpness increases with growing rotational frequency of the main shaft and decreases, increasing pressing force. On the basis of correlation analysis, the relationship between proposed new indicator of seam pucker evaluation and parameters of sewing machine was sought. The obtained result demonstrates that in most cases the relative pucker coefficient is dependent upon rotational frequency of the main shaft: increasing rotational frequency also leads to higher pucker coefficient. The linear relationship between the pucker coefficient and pressing force was not observed.
Practical implications
This investigation has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper, results involved with evaluation of seam pucker are presented.
Originality/value
The research showed that in order to define seam pucker more comprehensive, it is necessary to evaluate not only ratio of pucker height and length, but also the quantity of puckers as well as their propagation. Considering to this, the new criterion for seam pucker evaluation was proposed.
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Vaida Dobilaite and Milda Juciene
The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker.
Design/methodology/approach
The mechanical properties of sewing thread were obtained performing tensile testing research. The seam pucker of lightweight fabric was evaluated after sewing, then after 24 h, after 48 h as well as after washing and drying. To determine dimension changes of fabric, the relaxation shrinkage was calculated. The results of thread properties and seam pucker were compared.
Findings
In respect of seam pucker the best results were established sewing with polyester threads, the reversible strain of which were the least. After washing and drying, the highest pucker was typical of the specimens sewn with cotton sewing threads. It was noticed that increasing the amount of layers in sewing the influence of threads on seam pucker decreases. Washing and drying made considerably greater influence on the occurrence of pucker then time.
Practical implications
This study has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper recommendations involved with application of sewing thread and evaluation of seam pucker are presented.
Originality/value
In most cases the changes of sewn thread mechanical properties after sewing is analysed. This study is aimed to determine the influence of thread properties on seam pucker. Recommendations in the area of sewing thread and garment quality are based on the research.
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Fatemeh Mousazadegan, Siamak Saharkhiz and Masoud Latifi
The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.
Design/methodology/approach
A linear three dimensional finite‐element analysis in ABAQUS 6.8 is used to model pucker formation under sewing thread tension. Fabric is modeled as a continuous shell under a constant stitch length and sewing thread tensions is the applied force. Simulation's results are compared with the experimental pucker profiles, which are derived by a triangulate laser, in the term of a surface roughness index.
Findings
A consistent correlation between simulation and experimental results is observed which reveals the ability of the model to predict the seam pucker formation of fabrics.
Originality/value
This study modeled tension seam pucker based on fabric's mechanical properties and exerted forces by finite‐element method. According to this study, it is possible to predict fabric deformation after tension pucker occurrence.
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F. Mousazadegan, S. Saharkhiz, M. Latifi and M. Mohammadi‐Aghdam
The purpose of this study is to introduce a novel approach for seam pucker analysis based on wave shape parameters.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to introduce a novel approach for seam pucker analysis based on wave shape parameters.
Design/methodology/approach
In this method the uneven wavy curve along the puckered seam line was put into a deconvolution process and broken into several simple Gaussian curves using residual mathematical analysis method. First puckered samples with five different grades were produced and scanned by laser triangulated technology. After implementation of deconvolution method, the key geometrical parameters of the decomposed waves such as number of waves and their shape parameters like wave's area, amplitude and wave length were extracted. In addition, an objective method was developed and five indexes were introduced.
Findings
Analysis showed that there is a high linear relation with high correlation between all pucker indexes and subjective pucker evaluation.
Originality/value
The goal of this research was to analyse the five grades of seam puckered samples and extract the basic structural parameters to solidify the characteristic of each puckered grade, in order to exclude the influence of human perception.
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G. Stylios and D.W. Lloyd
The present work has shown that the cause of seam pucker in structurally jammed fabrics is mainly due to the sewing tensions of the sewing threads and that the fabric instead of…
Abstract
The present work has shown that the cause of seam pucker in structurally jammed fabrics is mainly due to the sewing tensions of the sewing threads and that the fabric instead of trying to take up a more jammed configuration, as believed so far, tries to resist jamming and in doing so, buckles out of the fabric plane. The proposed mechanism of seam pucker is based on quantitative and qualitative studies of fabric and thread properties in relation to sewing. The stitch can be regarded as an Euler column consisting of three springs representing a lockstitch seam; a compressed spring in the middle representing the fabric, and two stretched springs either side of it representing the needle and bobbin threads. If the bending and compressional loads are high compared to the bending and compressive stiffness of the fabric, buckling will occur. If the column is stiff by comparison with these loads, then the critical load for the column will not be exceeded and buckling will not occur.
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Motahareh Kargar and Pedram Payvandy
Simulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to…
Abstract
Purpose
Simulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to increase the accuracy of clothing simulation techniques. A garment contains many seams whose behavior affects its final appearance. In this study, a numerical model is presented to simulate seam puckers in single- and double-layer fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
A yarn-level simulation technique has been used for this purpose. Based on this technique, the individual threads in the fabric structure and the sewing threads are modeled separately. Then, their behavior and interaction with each other are considered in the seam pucker model.
Findings
The model is used to simulate the real samples. The results show that the proposed model is able to simulate the degree of seam puckering for a single-layer fabric with an average error of 7.9% and for a double-layer fabric with an average error of 8.5%.
Originality/value
The behavior of the seam is affected by the properties, behavior and interaction of the sewing threads and yarns in the fabric structure. In previous studies, the parameters related to seams and fabrics were not fully considered. In this study, a new yarn-level model is presented to simulate seam puckering in woven fabrics. The most important advantage of this type of simulation is the ability to examine the interaction of fabric threads as well as the interaction of sewing threads with each other and with the threads of the fabric structure.
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Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.
Design/methodology/approach
This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.
Findings
The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.
Originality/value
The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.
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B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all…
Abstract
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.