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1 – 10 of 689VIinay Kumar Midha, Shailja Sharma and Vaibhav Gupta
This paper aims to develop a single regression model (instead of developing models separately for each thread type) to predict the sewing thread consumption for cotton and…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to develop a single regression model (instead of developing models separately for each thread type) to predict the sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester staple spun threads.
Design/methodology/approach
A single regression model is developed for predicting sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester threads. The polyester sewing threads have lower sewing thread consumption as compared to cotton threads because of their higher elongation behaviour. The model differentiates between the cotton and polyester sewing threads using their elongation values at peak levels of tensions experienced by the sewing threads during stitch tightening. By comparing the estimated thread consumption values with actual values, the effectiveness of model is evaluated with root mean square error and coefficient of determination (R2).
Findings
During the sewing process, by understanding the behaviour of different types of sewing threads, it is possible to develop a single regression model for all types of threads.
Practical implications
The sewing thread consumption can be easily calculated for cotton and polyester sewing threads using a single regression equation using the sewing assembly thickness, stitch density and elongation of thread at peak tension. The garment manufacturers need not depend on different charts for sewing thread consumption for stock management.
Originality/value
The sewing thread consumption is different for different types of threads, and garment manufacturers have to depend on different charts given by sewing thread manufacturers or use different equations for each type of threads. Using this single regression equation, sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester sewing thread can be estimated accurately.
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Vinay Kumar Midha, V.K. Kothari, R. Chatopadhyay and A. Mukhopadhyay
In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be…
Abstract
Purpose
In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.
Design/methodology/approach
Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.
Findings
It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.
Practical implications
Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.
Originality/value
The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.
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Reyhaneh Kamali, Yasaman Mesbah and Fatemeh Mousazadegan
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.
Findings
The obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.
Originality/value
The consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.
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Vaida Dobilaite and Milda Juciene
The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker.
Design/methodology/approach
The mechanical properties of sewing thread were obtained performing tensile testing research. The seam pucker of lightweight fabric was evaluated after sewing, then after 24 h, after 48 h as well as after washing and drying. To determine dimension changes of fabric, the relaxation shrinkage was calculated. The results of thread properties and seam pucker were compared.
Findings
In respect of seam pucker the best results were established sewing with polyester threads, the reversible strain of which were the least. After washing and drying, the highest pucker was typical of the specimens sewn with cotton sewing threads. It was noticed that increasing the amount of layers in sewing the influence of threads on seam pucker decreases. Washing and drying made considerably greater influence on the occurrence of pucker then time.
Practical implications
This study has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper recommendations involved with application of sewing thread and evaluation of seam pucker are presented.
Originality/value
In most cases the changes of sewn thread mechanical properties after sewing is analysed. This study is aimed to determine the influence of thread properties on seam pucker. Recommendations in the area of sewing thread and garment quality are based on the research.
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Isao Ajiki and Ron Postle
The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in…
Abstract
The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in the sewing process. In order to compare polyester, cotton and silk sewing threads, the fineness of the threads were selected to be almost equal. There are some differences between the stress extension curves of the parent thread and the sewn thread except for the polyester sewing thread. The phenomenon of inverse relaxation occurs for high levels of retraction. The stress‐inverse relaxation index for the polyester sewing thread is larger than for other threads and the inverse relaxation for silk thread is small. From the creep curves, the sewn threads show higher secondary creep and lower instantaneous recovery than the parent threads.
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B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all…
Abstract
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.
F.B.N. Ferreira, S.C. Harlock and P. Grosberg
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under…
Abstract
A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under specified sewing conditions, whereby needle and bobbin thread tensioner adjustment, sewing speed, number of plies, fabric quality and sewing thread quality were varied in order to investigate the effect of these factors on the needle and bobbin thread tensions. The patterns of the thread tension traces obtained were analysed as well as the effect of these factors on the peak tensions detected on both thread tension traces. Four significant peak tensions on the needle thread tension trace and two significant peak tensions on the bobbin thread tension trace were detected, during a stitch cycle. It was found that no significant variations occurred as far as the timing and shape of the peak tensions were concerned. However, variations were detected in the peak tensions according to the sewing conditions, as expected. From the analysis of the data obtained, multiple regression equations were derived to predict, with a good degree of accuracy, the peak tensions generated, according to the sewing conditions.
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Andreja Rudolf and Jelka Geršak
Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence…
Abstract
Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence of the stitching speed and different twist numbers of PES thread on the alteration of the mechanical properties of the fibres twisted in the thread was studied for that purpose. On the basis of the received results it was found that with an increase in the number of the thread twist, the breaking tenacity and initial elasticity modulus of the fibres decrease, while the resulting deformation of the sewing thread between the sewing process was reflected as a decrease in the fineness and breaking extension of the fibres and as an increase in the value of the initial elasticity modulus of the fibres.
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Evangelos Liasi, Ruxu Du, Dan Simon, Jasmina Bujas‐Dimitrejevic and Frank Liburdi
This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line…
Abstract
This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line scanning IR radiometry, and high speed IR radiometry are used to obtain thermal images of the needle during sewing. In particular, IR radiometry was used in lower speed sewing (approximately 500rpm). High speed IR and high speed line scanning IR radiometry were used for medium speed sewing (1,000‐2,000rpm). Using Taguchi’s design of experiment method, the effects of various factors are studied including needle conditions (sharp or blunt), sewing speeds, number of stitches per inch, material being sewn, and thread tension. It is found that even with air vortex cooling the needle may still reach high enough temperatures that may affect the sewing quality and even cause thread breakage. This was confirmed via a thread tensile testing experiment. An empirical model of the mean needle temperature is also proposed and tested.
G. Sundaresan, K.R. Salhotra and P.K. Hari
The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size…
Abstract
The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn‐metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.
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