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Knitted fabrics containing elastane provide high level of comfort and ease of usage because of the elastic and drape properties over the body. Knitted fabrics respond to every movement of the body and return back to its original shape easily so they are used widely for apparel production. The most important properties required from the elastic knitted garments are wear comfort, fit, breathability and durability. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of elastane yarn count and ground yarn count on the performance properties of 12 single jersey knitted fabrics were analysed after dying.

The research design for this study consists an experimental study. In all, 12 fabrics containing half plating and full plating elastane were produced using 30/1-40/1 Ne yarn counts. Bursting strength, stretch recovery, residual extension, air permeability, spirality and drape properties of fabrics were evaluated.

As a result of study it was found a certain effect as the elastane amount and count changed. For all types of knitted fabrics, bursting strength values increased and fabric spirality values decreased as the elastane amount and elastane yarn count increased. Also it was found a significant relationship between elastane amount and count with air permeability, spirality, bursting strength and drape.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that the effects of elastane amount, elastane yarn count and fabric yarn count on the performance properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied broadly.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the air permeability of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibre and their seams applying both the new approach based on fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and standard method.

Investigations were performed with commercially available eight polyester knitted fabrics containing different elastane yarn proportion. Bonded seams were laminated applying the urethane thermoplastic adhesive film of 0.175 mm thickness. Bonds were laminated by heat at 5.6 kPa pressure applying pressing device GTK DEA 25 R at 140°C temperature for 40 s duration. Sewn seams were assembled with 607 covering chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density and 512 overedge chain stitch applying 5.0 stitches per cm density. Specimens without and with the seams were conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions according to the standard LST EN ISO 139 before air permeability testing according to the standard LST EN ISO 9237. Standard thickness of the investigated knitted fabric was determined according to the standard EN ISO 5084. It is known from literature that the porosity is dominant factor influencing the air permeability of knitted fabrics. Therefore, the assumption was made that due to fabric porosity knitted fabric thickness being measured at different pressures also may differ. Thus, the permeability property may also be related to the difference between fabric’s thicknesses being measured under different pressures which may be applied with different material thickness gauges.

There was shown that fabric assemblies make the significant influence on the textile permeability to air. The results obtained indicate that the air permeability of the investigated knitted fabrics depends not only on their structure parameters but also on the fabric seam type. Air permeability of the specimens with the seams was lower than one of specimens without the seams. The highest decrease in permeability which ranged from 19.9 per cent up to 60.0 per cent was determined for the bonds. Fabric specimens with 607 covering chain stitch seam were in the second place with regard to the previously considered parameter. And, their permeability was decreased from 0.6 per cent up to 52.6 per cent. Changes in the air permeability of the specimens with 512 overedge chain stitch seam were lowest in the range of investigated assemblies. Based on the determined results, it was concluded that the thickness difference of the specimens with and without seams measured at different pressures is related to fabric porosity which makes the significant influence on the air permeability.

The samples of investigated fabrics were taken from the two companies which manufactures leisure clothing and sportswear such as skiing or swimming costumes, etc. Thus, the obtained investigation results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads the improvement of clothing quality in fashion industry.

Assuring the comfort of the human body is one of the most important functions of clothing, especially of sportswear and leisure wear. Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic, but also have high air permeability for easily transmit of the perspiration from the skin to the atmosphere, thus making the wearer to feel comfortable. In this research, the air permeability of commercially available polyester knitted fabrics containing different amount of elastane was investigated and the influence of fabric assemblies on the air permeability property was evaluated. A new approach based on the fabric thickness measurement at different pressures and the standard methods for the evaluation of air permeability were used.

To produce a coated fabric, a base fabric may be completely or partially coated with a polymer layer, which changes the properties of the new system relative to the base fabric. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the influence of the thermal transfer material and its shape on the deformability of knitted fabrics during the uniaxial extension and to determine the residual deformation of the thermoplastic transfer element of coated fabrics after unloading.

Knitted fabrics were partially and entirely coated with heat transfer material. For partial coating, square pieces of three different transfer materials were bonded on the middle of the specimen. They were solid, perforated with either nine circular holes or six rectangular holes. A heat seal press was used to laminate knitted fabrics. The samples were subjected to uniaxial tensile testing. The characteristics such as strain at maximum force, strain at break, and strain at low stress were measured. After stretching and relaxation of the specimens, the residual deformation of the heat transfer element was also investigated.

The results indicated that coating knitted fabrics with transfer material may decrease their stretchability. The experiments show that the decrease in stretchability and in the degree of residual deformation after stretching and relaxing depend on the knitted structure, the shape of the transfer element, and the degree to which the fabric is coated.

This study examines the influence of heat transfer material which may be not only entirely but also partially joined with knitted fabric layer on the deformability and shape stability of this system.

The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite element analysis. In order to elaborate the study, high, medium and low tightness knitted fabrics were selected and deformation of fabrics analyzed in course, wales and bias directions (0, 45 and 90 degrees).

This study focussed on uni-axial tensile test of produced test samples using Instron 6021 tester and a development of single-jersey knitted loop model using Auto Desk Inventor software (ADI). The knitted fabric material properties and knitted loop model was imported to ANSYS 12.0 software.

Due to structural changes the tightness and thickness of knitted fabric decreases with increase in loop length The tensile result shows maximum breaking strength at course direction (13.43 kg f/mm2 at 2.7 mm) and maximum extension at wales direction (165.77 kg f/mm2 at 3.3 mm). When the loop length increases, the elongation of fabrics increased and load carrying capacity of fabrics reduced. The Young's modulus, Poisson's ratio and shear modulus of fabrics reduced with increase in loop length. The deformation of fabrics increased with increase in loop length. The increase in loop length gives large amount of structural changes and it is due to slacking or jamming in loops and loosening in dimensions. When comparing the deformation results, the variation within the fabric is higher and structural damage little more when increasing the loop length of the fabric.

From ANOVA test, stress and strain distribution was statistically significant among course, wales and bias directions at 95 percent confidence level. The values got from Instron test indicates that testing direction can alter its deformation. In deformation analysis, comparing both experimental and prediction, high amount of structural changes observed in wales direction. The used tetrahedral elements can be used for contact analysis with high accuracy. For non-linear problems, consistent approach was proposed which makes the sense to compare with experimental methods. The proposed model will make possible developments and the preliminary validation tests shows good agreement with experimental data.

This work deals with the evolution of the residual bagging height of knitted samples. In comparing the results after a fabric bagging test, it may be concluded that the behaviour of the sample length is an influential parameter which widely reflects the anisotropy of knitted structures. Hence, it is clear that the sample length does not exhibit the same behaviour in each knitted fabric zone which generally explains the impartial response after stress is applied. With regards to the different height values that the sample length presents in each measured part of the fabric, it may be concluded that there are several types of behaviours in the areas of bagging along the sample length. Moreover, it appears that there is a non uniform distribution of deformation after removing the stress. Therefore, internal stresses and deformations that cause different residual heights in the same sample accurately reflect and explain the anisotropic structure of the investigated knitted fabrics. In knowing that there is this non-uniform distribution of deformation, the input parameters also have considerable effects on the bending behaviour of the residual bagging. Indeed, when the yarn structure is changed, the residual bagging height changes too. Furthermore, our findings prove that elastic knitted fabrics accurately show a more minimal residual bagging height as opposed to non elastic fabrics in spite of the other input parameter values.

Elastane yarns contribute significant elastic properties to all types of fabrics and these properties for very important for wears including tights, sportswear, under wear, casual wear, swimwear, corsetry, etc. in terms of appearance, comfort and duration of wear. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

It is investigated with this study strength, fatigue and bagging properties of plated plain knitted fabrics containing different rates of elastane.

The study showed that single jersey, not having elastane and having the lowest fabric tightness, has the lowest bursting strength, the highest fatigue loading values in high extensions, the lowest fatigue height values and the worst bagging behavior. On the contrary of single jersey, full elastane fabric has the exact opposite characteristics considering the fabric properties examined.

Fabric with 1×1 elastane and fabric with 2×1 elastane is similar, and these fabrics show bagging behavior better than single jersey and worse than full elastane fabric whereas the other properties of these fabrics are close to full elastane fabric.

The obtained simulation structures could reflect the appearances and the features of the fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to promote a lot for design and manufacturing of weft-knitted lace fabrics (WKLF).

The advantages of WKLF compared with warp-knitted ones were displayed. The formation mechanism of the WKLF was analyzed with employing the mechanics principles. Spring-mass model was proposed in this paper to achieve the simulation of the fabrics. End mass points and intermediate mass points were involved in the model. The displacement of end mass points was considered the dominance and the foundation to settle the positions of all the mass points.

A novel jacquard lace style fabric with pattern-background effect knitted on circular knitting machine were put forward, which were different from the traditional lace fabrics manufactured on the warp knitting machines.

First, as the manufacturing equipment, circular knitting machine costs much less than warp knitting machine; second, the elastic performance along weft direction of WKLF is more excellent than that of warp-knitted ones. Third, the excellent extensibility gives nice comfort; furthermore, long floating threads do not exist on the WKLF surface, so that the snag will be avoided.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of assembly type on the hand property of the polyester-knitted materials containing different amounts of elastane fibre.

The hand property of control textile materials specimens as well as assembled ones applying both adhesive bonding and sewing was evaluated analysing the typical pulling curves as well as the individual hand parameters, which were determined using the device KTU-Griff-Tester. The complex hand criterion Q was calculated for the complete assessment of both textiles and their assemblies’ hand by one numeral value.

It was shown that the fabric structure and assembly type have a significant influence on the knitted materials hand property. The complex hand criterion Q varied from 0.068 to 0.186, depending on the material structure, and it was decreased up to 42.6 per cent due to textile assemblies.

The determined research results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads to the improvement in clothing quality in fashion industry suggesting more ergonomic and original constructional decisions for clothes’ design, selection of most suitable assembly type and its place in overall garment area, which is very important for the development process of the slim fitted sportswear featuring with a very complicated construction, usually worn under intensive body movements causing rubbing effect to the skin.

Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic but also have perfect hand, thus making them to feel comfortable. But hand property of assembled textiles had not been investigated previously. Novelty and originality of this research was the objective and simple evaluation of the hand property for both knitted materials and their assemblies taking into account the overall skin sensorial comfort of a garment.

This study aims to clarify the key factors among physical‐mechanical properties of fabrics in relation to the dynamic pressure performance of compression garment.

The physical‐mechanical properties of 16 different fabrics were measured using a KESF standard evaluation system and INSTRON tensile tester, and the garment pressure was measured by dynamic pressure measuring system. Grey correlation analysis is used to determine the correlation degree of fabric physical‐mechanical properties and dynamic pressure magnitude.

The mechanical behaviors (e.g. tensile, shearing, and bending) and physical characteristics are different in elastic fabrics with varied content of elastic fiber, kinds of yarn, et al. Grey correlation analysis is a valid method to analyze the indices of a system, quantize them and put them in order. All the degrees of Grey correlation are more than 0.6. The degree of grey correlation between tensile force (F), shearing rigidity (G) and bending rigidity (B) are higher than others, hence it is conducted that these would significantly effect on garment pressure. The quantitative regression equations between pressure magnitude at extension of 50 percent and the individual key parameters (mean values in wale and course directions) of tested samples are illustrated.

The other parameters (e.g. fabric structure, yarn fineness, and pre‐tension, et al.) should be taken into account. Further, an integrative mathematic model would be established, which could predict the garment pressure directly from the physical‐mechanical properties of fabric.

The present study indicates that pressure magnitude of elastic fabric is an integrative action performed by physical‐mechanical properties. The developed illustrative equations and method offer a rational and practical tool for assessing pressure functional performance of elastic fabric in the stages of design and product development.

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

According to the distribution of body fat and the pressure comfort range of the shaping pants, zoning design is carried out. The pressure comfort of the women's shaping pants is tested by the objective pressure test and the subjective evaluation method.

The result is that using the method of zoning design can satisfy the comfort of the lower limbs while improving the mobility and plasticity.

Pressure comfort has become an important index to evaluate the comfort of elastic shaping pants. However, there were very few studies on the relationship between the pressure comfort of warp-knitted elastic pants and the design of jacquard organization in China and abroad.