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Elastane yarns contribute significant elastic properties to all types of fabrics and these properties for very important for wears including tights, sportswear, under wear, casual wear, swimwear, corsetry, etc. in terms of appearance, comfort and duration of wear. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

It is investigated with this study strength, fatigue and bagging properties of plated plain knitted fabrics containing different rates of elastane.

The study showed that single jersey, not having elastane and having the lowest fabric tightness, has the lowest bursting strength, the highest fatigue loading values in high extensions, the lowest fatigue height values and the worst bagging behavior. On the contrary of single jersey, full elastane fabric has the exact opposite characteristics considering the fabric properties examined.

Fabric with 1×1 elastane and fabric with 2×1 elastane is similar, and these fabrics show bagging behavior better than single jersey and worse than full elastane fabric whereas the other properties of these fabrics are close to full elastane fabric.

Eri silk fiber has superior thermal insulation behavior, better softness than cotton fiber. However, Eri silk’s use in the commercial arena has not yet taken off. The purpose of the study is to explore the comfort properties of the fabric, which enhances the commercial acceptance of Eri silk clothing.

In this investigation, three different single knit Eri silk structures were produced with different loop lengths and yarn counts to analyze the influence of process variables on low-stress mechanical properties. To execute the research work, Eri silk spun yarn of three different linear densities (15 tex, 20 tex, 25 tex) were chosen. Three different knitted structures were produced, such as single jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, and two different loop lengths were also selected.

The cellular blister structure has shown appreciable low-stress properties next highest position was attained by the popcorn structure. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the low-stress properties.

The findings of this research will contribute to a greater awareness of Eri silk knitted fabric and its process parameters in relation to its commercial utility.

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the low-stress properties of Eri silk-based thermal clothing.

The purpose of this paper is to identify the significant factors important for prickle discomfort properties of commercial wool knitwear and to analyse information on variability of garments manufactured over two decades, a total of 177 purchased garments were tested.

The relationship between the attributes of the reversed engineered garments and garment comfort, as assessed by Wool ComfortMeter, was determined.

The results indicate that: mean fibre diameter had the most significant effect on prickle assessment; the coefficient of variation of fibre diameter interacted with fabric thickness in affecting prickle discomfort; and rib knit structures were pricklier than single jersey structures.

The results provide objective evidence that the consumer surveys reporting dissatisfaction with the prickle discomfort of wool are based on real consumer experiences of prickle discomfort and are not based on “prejudice” against wool garments.

A neuro‐fuzzy control model has been devised for the next generation of so‐called “intelligent sewing machines”. The model incorporates discrimination of material characteristics to be stitched by automatic determination of their properties. The fabric/machine interactions at different speeds have been computed in the form of linguistic rules of a fuzzy model and implemented in a neural network to allow for optimization of fuzzy membership functions and, subsequently, self‐learning. The model is successfully applied to an instrumented industrial sewing machine.

The purpose of this paper is to explore the synergic effect of wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) combination herbal extracts treatment on the moisture management properties of cotton, lyocell and micro-denier single jersey knitted fabrics and the factors affecting it, which is intended for the development of healthcare apparel products.

The pre-treated single jersey knitted fabrics of cotton, lyocell and micro-denier polyester fabrics were given finishing treatment with the wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) combination herbal extract proportions of 100%:0%, 75%:25%,50%:50%; 25%:75% and 0%:100%. The D-optimal factorial design developed using Design Expert software was used for the study. The finishing treatments were carried out using the pad−dry−cure method. The aim of the work is to find out the influence of combination herbal extract proportion, textile material and their interaction effect on the moisture management properties.

The ANOVA results revealed that the overall moisture management properties of single jersey knitted fabrics are influenced by the material type, combination herbal extract proportion and the interaction between material type and the combination herbal extracts proportion. The overall moisture management properties of combination herbal extracts treated cotton single jersey fabrics are found to be better than that of lyocell and micro-denier polyester fabrics due to their excellent accumulative one-way transport capability after the finishing treatment. Among the combination herbal extract proportions, 50:50 per cent combination herbal extract proportion was found to be better than other proportions.

The study on the moisture management properties of combination herbal extracts of wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) is a novel attempt to explore the synergic effect of active constituents in both the herbs.

In this research work, the effect of yarn twist and loop length on spirality, geometrical and also physical properties of single jersey fabrics are reported. To carry out this work, five types of yarns are produced with 30s count with five different twist factors of 3.7, 40, 4.2, 4.4, and 4.8. These five types of yarns are knitted separately to make single jersey fabrics with three loop lengths of 2.8, 2.9, and 3.0 mm. All of these samples are scoured, soured and given antichlor treatment. Then among these samples, one half of them are bleached. Then the fabrics are tested to determine the effect of yarn twist and loop length on spirality, geometrical properties, such as courses/inch, wales/inch, stitch density and grams/sq.metre, and physical properties, such as air permeability, bending rigidity, elastic recovery and extension, shear rigidity, wicking and shrinkage. The results of the same are discussed in detail in this research work.

The length and width shrinkages, skewness, spirality and moisture content of three weft knitted cotton structures, plain single jersey, interlock and lacoste, were determined at regular intervals during tumble drying. Significant length and width shrinkages occurred in all three structures with the amount of shrinkage increasing rapidly in plain single jersey and lacoste as their moisture contents fell below 30 per cent. Distortion was less affected by tumble drying. An attempt was made to isolate the effects of heat and agitation during tumble drying. It has been demonstrated that similar patterns of shrinkage and distortion occur whether heat is applied during tumble drying or not. The tumbling action in a tumble drier has the greatest influence on the dimensional stability and distortion of weft knitted cotton fabrics.

Air permeability of knitted fabrics is normally measured for the samples in their unstretched state. But, this air permeability values indicate the ability of these garments to allow air through them when they are not in use. But, the real-time condition is different and certainly the knitted garments mentioned above will subject to a degree of stretch during their usage. So, the measurement of air permeability under stretch and the fabric properties which would influence the air permeability of weft-knitted fabrics in their stretched state is of paramount importance. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

The aim of this research work is to investigate the change in air permeability values under the incremental extension of cotton tubular weft-knitted fabrics produced from the yarns of different spinning systems.

From the results, it is evident that the pique fabric samples of compact spun yarn displayed the highest air permeability values during the incremental stretch at all the three relaxation states. It is followed by the pique samples of ring spun yarn. Next to pique samples, the jersey samples made from the compact yarn and ring spun yarn revealed more air permeability, respectively. The core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples displayed the least air permeability values, respectively. But, the pique and jersey samples made up of ring yarn and compact yarn showed gradual reduction in their air permeability towards the incremental stretch and the core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples were uniformly seen with gradual increase in their air permeability during the incremental stretch.

Very limited quantity of research has been carried out in this area. So, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the influence of incremental stretch on air permeability of single knit structures.

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of this industry and failure to apply scientific methods along with the manufacturing processes, the wastes in the raw materials, including fabrics, become higher. Besides, quality deficiencies are encountered due to the same reasons. This study aims to determine the optimum total fabric layer height based on the fabric type during the cutting process with a straight knife cutting machine, which provided a decrease in the cutting errors.

Frequently used fabric types in an enterprise operating in organic cotton knitwear were listed. During the cutting tests, the straight knife cutting machine was used as the cutting device. The weight and thickness values of the fabrics were obtained to provide a comparison basis. Two different algorithms were created to evaluate the defective pieces according to fabric type, cutting height and error placement. Cutting resistances of these fabrics were also determined to evaluate the defect reasons. In the end, optimum total fabric layer count and total cutting height suggestions were proposed for each fabric type for a minimum cutting error.

At the end of this study, the error-free layers were identified per fabric type. At the same time, the optimum cutting height was suggested for each fabric basis. For 40/1 single jersey fabrics, the cutting height should be between 2.10 cm and 10.40 cm; for 30/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.65 cm and 5.70 cm; for 20/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.83 cm and 6.70 cm; for two-thread fleece fabrics, between 2.13 cm and 4.70 cm; and for three-thread fleece fabrics, between 0 cm and 4.90 cm.

Within the scope of the study, since the products made of knitted fabric were produced more frequently and in large quantities, the study was carried out with 15 different types of knitted fabrics at 10 different layers. The same methods should be applied for woven, denim and nonwoven fabric types, which would shed light on the following studies.

Due to scarce research carried out on the cutting procedure of the clothing industry in regards to sustainability, this study aims to contribute to this area. The main difference between this study and the studies that mostly make mathematical predictions about the cutting procedure is that it is practice-oriented.

The purpose of this research is to study the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey fabrics with properties made of cotton and spandex yarn.

Samples with 100 percent cotton yarns, spandex yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex extension. After the dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types (cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) to evaluate the most appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force and weight loss percent under different levels of spandex extension.

Results showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high decreases in weight loss percent for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabrics.

There is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are used in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density. This research compares the effects of two different softener types at different concentrations on the properties of both plain jersey fabric produced from 100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with different stitch density.