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For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant feelings because they have a direct influence on human psychological satisfaction, health and work efficiency. The purpose of this study is to investigate the impact of cotton fiber parameters on the sensorial comfort of woven fabrics.

Four types of cotton fiber with different fineness, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, strength and elongation were used to develop yarns used to weave fabric samples. Kawabata evaluation system (KES) was used to analyze the fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

Results showed that cotton fiber parameters have a significant effect on surface friction and roughness properties. Low stress tensile, tensile resilience and tensile strain properties were affected by fiber micronaire, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, fiber strength and elongation. However, fabric shear, bending and compression properties were least dependent on fiber parameters. The correlation of the dependent variable and the independent variable was also statistically analyzed and reported. From the results, it was shown that cotton fiber parameters play a significant role in woven fabrics’ sensorial comfort.

The cloths that are in contact with the skin can be developed using the results of these studies to feel pleasant. This will, in turn, have a direct effect on the customer's psychological satisfaction, health and work performance.

This paper aims to propose the artificial neural network (ANN) and regression models for the estimation of the thread consumption at multilayered seam assembly stitched with lock stitch 301.

In the present study, the generalized regression and neural network models are developed by considering the fabric types: woven, nonwoven and multilayer combination thereof, with basic sewing parameters: sewing thread linear density, stitch density, needle count and fabric assembly thickness. The network with feed-forward backpropagation is considered to build the ANN, and the training function trainlm of MATLAB software is used to adjust weight and basic values according to the optimization of Levenberg Marquardt. The performance of networks measured in terms of the mean squared error and the layer output is set according to the sigmoid transfer function.

The proposed ANN and regression model are able to predict the thread consumption with more accuracy for multilayered seam assembly. The predictability of thread consumption from available geometrical models, regression models and industrial empirical techniques are compared with proposed linear regression, quadratic regression and neural network models. The proposed quadratic regression model showed a good correlation with practical thread consumption value and more accuracy in prediction with an overall 4.3% error, as compared to other techniques for given multilayer substrates. Further, the developed ANN network showed good accuracy in the prediction of thread consumption.

The estimation of thread consumed while stitching is the prerequisite of the garment industry for inventory management especially with the introduction of the costly high-performance sewing thread. In practice, different types of fabrics are stitched at multilayer combinations at different locations of the stitched product. The ANN and regression models are developed for multilayered seam assembly of woven and nonwoven fabric blend composition for better prediction of thread consumption.

Some of the basic mechanical characteristics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of cotton knitted fabrics after a durable flame‐retardant finishing, were studied by the objective‐evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niva using the KES‐F system. In addition, properties such as bursting strength, drape and sewability were studied in order to further explore the influence of this treatment on the fabrics. All treated fabrics were flame‐retardant but their mechanical properties showed changes as a result of the above finishing. More specifically, a significant reduction in the bending and shear properties was recorded, which suggests that the flame‐retardant finishing primarily affects the above characteristics.

The mechanical properties of fabric longitudinal extension and compression, shear and bending have an important influence on the performance of fabrics during tailoring and also on the performance of garments during use. Fabrics are overfed or underfed in tailoring during the sewing operations in such a way that longitudinal compression and extension are allowed in the fabric plane in order to produce the three‐dimensional shape or fullness of the garment. Fabric buckling or puckering at the seams should not occur, or if it does, should be removed during subsequent steam pressing operations. An experiment is described to measure the maximum limit of overfeeding that is possible during seaming without the subsequent formation of seam puckers. The relationships are studied between the maximum degree of overfeed, the bias angle between the feed direction and the fabric warp or weft, fibre type and fabric mechanical properties, especially fabric formability defined as the product of fabric bending rigidity and fabric longitudinal compressibility. When fabrics are extended or compressed longitudinally at a bias angle to the warp or weft direction during seaming in order to produce garment fullness, the warp and weft threads are rotated relative to each other in such a way that a local shear deformation is applied to the fabric adjacent to the seam‐line. Measurements are reported of the variations in the local shear angle along the shoulder seam‐line of a men's jacket and the measured values are related to the high degree of overfeed required in the bias direction in this area of the garment. Finally, hygral expansion measurements for wool fabrics and yarns unravelled from the fabrics are measured and compared for six different wool fabrics.

This study aims to clarify the key factors among physical‐mechanical properties of fabrics in relation to the dynamic pressure performance of compression garment.

The physical‐mechanical properties of 16 different fabrics were measured using a KESF standard evaluation system and INSTRON tensile tester, and the garment pressure was measured by dynamic pressure measuring system. Grey correlation analysis is used to determine the correlation degree of fabric physical‐mechanical properties and dynamic pressure magnitude.

The mechanical behaviors (e.g. tensile, shearing, and bending) and physical characteristics are different in elastic fabrics with varied content of elastic fiber, kinds of yarn, et al. Grey correlation analysis is a valid method to analyze the indices of a system, quantize them and put them in order. All the degrees of Grey correlation are more than 0.6. The degree of grey correlation between tensile force (F), shearing rigidity (G) and bending rigidity (B) are higher than others, hence it is conducted that these would significantly effect on garment pressure. The quantitative regression equations between pressure magnitude at extension of 50 percent and the individual key parameters (mean values in wale and course directions) of tested samples are illustrated.

The other parameters (e.g. fabric structure, yarn fineness, and pre‐tension, et al.) should be taken into account. Further, an integrative mathematic model would be established, which could predict the garment pressure directly from the physical‐mechanical properties of fabric.

The present study indicates that pressure magnitude of elastic fabric is an integrative action performed by physical‐mechanical properties. The developed illustrative equations and method offer a rational and practical tool for assessing pressure functional performance of elastic fabric in the stages of design and product development.

In Parts 1 and 2 of this series of papers, we have investigated the important mechanical and physical properties of fabrics which determine their performance during tailoring especially fabric tensile, shear, bending and dimensional properties. The conditions for structural balance of seams has been quantitatively evaluated as well as the relationship between the degree of fabric overfeed during sewing and the natural curvature or curling couple of the seamed fabric assembly. Fabric forming and draping behaviour is strongly dependent on fabric bending and the fabric membrane properties of extension, longitudinal compression and shearing in the fabric plane. In this paper, the influence of these basic fabric mechanical properties on subjectively assessed garment appearance is also studied. These mechanical properties can be used to distinguish between fabrics which make up into suits of good and poor appearance. The investigation of the bending properties of overfed fabrics has established an empirical relationship between the level of fabric overfeed and the natural curvature of the overfed seamed fabric composite for three different fabric configurations.

Fabric testing has progressed from subjective hand evaluation to very sophisticated instrumental techniques. Examines past developments and suggests some future directions in this area. Reports research work being pursued by the present authors in developing automated test systems.

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation of the three‐dimensional formability and drape of textile materials in apparel products and three‐dimensional preforms. In contrast to woven fabrics where bending and shear properties determine the fabric formability, knitted fabrics have very high formability as a direct result of their easy biaxial extension properties. This ability to form three‐dimensional shapes using the biaxial extensibility of knitted structures enables these knitted textile materials to be utilised for a wide variety of close fitting apparel garments and shaped composite preforms. Some representative biaxial extension curves for the plain knitted structure are described in this paper. These curves illustrate an unusual shape for the load‐extension curve of a textile material arising from the pre‐tension or pre‐stress. The pre‐stress yields an initial high tensile modulus for the structure in contrast to the very low initial modulus characteristic of apparel textiles. Accordingly, for knitted textile materials, it is shown how biaxial extension of the fabric introduces a fabric pre‐stress to maximise the three‐dimensional fabric formability especially when subjected to transverse compression by the resin or matrix in a composite material. Typical uniaxial and biaxial tensile stress–strain curves for knitted fabrics are compared.

Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic blends containing hollow fibres, bamboo and cotton/polyester waste on the mechanical properties of the produced fabrics and the appropriate end use.

This research included two blends: one consisted of cotton/polyester wastes blended with bamboo and the other to which Chorisia fibres were added. Two weft counts 10,6/1 Ne were made from each blend, which were used to produce four fabric samples (S1 Chorisia-free and S2 with Chorisia); additionally, another two samples were dyed that contain Chorisia (S3) from each count. The six samples were tested by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES).

The samples gave a good total hand value (THV) for use as men's winter suits, where the thicker count 6/1, with and without Chorisia had better properties, also both counts 6, 10/1 with dye. The hollow fibres affected the fabrics’ properties, including thickness, shear, bending, thermal conductivity and weight. Both blends had a positive effect on THV.

Cotton/polyester waste, Chorisia and bamboo fibres were tested, and 2% Remazol Yellow GNL dye was used.

The ratio of blending, weft counts and dye affected the fabric’s properties, with consequences for the use of the Kawabata system and its applications.

The fabrics used in this research may be considered to be economical and have good THV.

The study proved the usefulness of fabrics made of two blends. The Chorisia component may be seen as a good alternative to cotton fibres to reduce the cost of producing high-consumption winter suit fabrics.

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.