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This paper aims to assess the relationships amongst the tearing strength of fabrics after each chemical processing stage and after finishing of plain-woven cotton fabric. An effort has been made to study the effect of different finishing chemicals (tear improver) and their different concentrations on the high-density fabric tear strength and its sub-component with respect to the co-efficient of friction value of yarns for all the fabric samples. It also aims to establish a statistical model for prediction of tear strength with identified parameters as yarn–yarn friction co-efficient, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength.

In case of woven fabrics, it cannot be assumed that only yarn friction plays the role in deciding fabric-tearing strength. Whether the static or kinetic frictions need to be considered or the linear or capstan frictions have to be analyzed, to incorporate the results of friction analysis in the tearing behavior, need to be assessed. In the present work through a fabrication of yarn–yarn friction measurement, under a synchronized slow speed as that of actual fabric tearing (50 mm/min), has been carried out. After each wet processing stage, surface characteristics of yarns have been changed. Surface of yarns becomes smoother after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns, accordingly.

After each wet processing stage, the surface characteristics of yarns are changed. Surface structure of yarns becomes smooth after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns. For all the fabrics, the weft-way tearing strength is always higher than warp-way tearing strength. It is also observed that yarn pullout force is not the only responsible factor for tearing strength of such fabric. It is because of the combined action of yarn–yarn friction, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength for a given structure.

A more extensive investigation with respect to concentration as well as further variety of chemicals requires to be identified for the optimum concentration level for each chemical. A mathematical model based on the three parameters as yarn–yarn co-efficient of friction, yarn pullout force and yarn strength for all woven fabric structure to achieve optimum strength level has been established which could be further extended for each fabric structures.

The problem has been identified from the day-to-day exercise of the commercial textile industry. The whole of the sample preparations have been done in the industry by using commercial machines under standard industrial conditions. The findings have been discussed and suitably introduced in the industry.

The whole of this paper has been unique in idea origination, sample preparation and execution of tests. The findings are very important for the researchers as well as for textile industry.

Dref-3 friction spun core yarns produced using staple fibre yarn as the core, e.g. Jute core yarn wrapped with cotton fibre, have poorer mechanical properties compared to the core yarn itself. The purpose of this study was to understand the structure of such yarns, that will lead to the optimization of fibre, machine and process variables for production of better quality yarn from the Dref-3/3000 machines.

The Dref spinning trials were conducted following a full factorial design with six variables, all with two operative levels. The Dref-3 friction spun yarn, in which the core is a plied, twisted ring yarn composed of cotton singles and the sheath, formed from the same cotton fibres making the singles, has been examined. The structures have also been studied by using the tracer fibre technique.

It was observed that rather than depending on the plied core yarn, the tensile properties of the Dref-3 yarn are significantly determined by the parameters those affect the constituent single yarn tensile properties, i.e. the amount of twist and its twist direction, yarn linear density and the sheath fibre proportion used during the Dref spinning in making the final yarn. Further, when the twist direction of single yarn, double yarn and the Dref spinning false twisting are in the same direction, the produced core-sheath yarn exhibits better tensile properties.

The understanding of the yarn structure will lead to optimized production of all staple fibre core Dref spun yarns.

The research work may lead to utilization of coarse and harsh untapped natural fibres to the production of value-added textile products.

Though an earlier research has reported the effects of sheath fibre fineness and length on the tensile and bending properties of Dref-3 friction yarn, the present study is the first documented attempt using the tracer fibre technique to understand Dref-3 yarn structure with plied staple fibrous core.

The purpose of this paper is to predict the bagging recovery velocity of bagged denim fabric samples. Hence, the authors attempt to carry out a model highlighting and explaining the impact of some considered frictional parameters such as yarn-to-yarn friction expressed as weft yarn rigidity parameter and metal-to-fabric friction expressed by mean frictional coefficient parameter.

The statistical analysis steps were implemented using experimental design type Taguchi and thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modeling methodology analyzed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis. The predictive power of the obtained model is evaluated by comparing the estimated recovery velocity (theoretical) with the actual values. These comparative values are measured after the bagging test and during the relaxation time of the denim fabric samples. The regression coefficient (R2) values as well as the statistical tests (p-values, analysis of variance results) were investigated, discussed and analyzed to improve the findings.

According to the statistical results given by Taguchi analysis findings, the regression model is very significant (p-regression=0.04 and R2=97 percent) which explains widely the possibility of bagging behavior prediction in the studied experimental field of interest. Indeed the variation (the increase or the decrease) of the frictional input parameters values caused, as a result, the variation of the whole appearance and the shape of the bagged zone expressed by the residual bagging height variations. In spite of their similar compositions and characteristics, the woven bagged fabrics presented differently behaviors in terms of the bagging recovery and kinetic velocity values. After relaxation times which are not the same and relative to different fabric samples, it may be concluded that bagging behavior remained function of the internal frictional stresses, especially yarn-to-yarn and metal-to-fabric ones.

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. In fact, in terms of the importance to the industrial producers of the materials it helps to provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of woven fabrics in general and denim fabrics particularly due to important frictional input contributions. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess as function of frictional parameters in order to optimize (minimize) their effects on the bagging behaviors before and after repetitive uses. These experimental, statistical and theoretical findings may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on their properties and prevent industrial from the most significant and influential inputs which should be adjusted accurately. This work allows industrial, also, to make more attention, in case of a high-quality level to ensure, to optimize and review yarn behaviors used to produce fabrics against drastic solicitations and minimize frictions forms during experimental spinning and weaving processes.

Until now, there is no sufficient information to evaluate and predict the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behavior. Besides, there is no work that deals with the kinetic recovery evolution as function of frictional inputs to explain accurately the bagging behavior evolution during relaxation time. Therefore, this present work is to investigate and model the residual bagging recovery velocity after bagging test as function of the frictional input parameters of both denim yarn and fabric samples (expressed by the friction caused due to contact from conformator to fabric).

The purpose of this paper is to theoretically compute and predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in woven denim fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern on the basis of geometrical, physical, and mechanical properties of yarns and fabric, and characteristics of sewing needle.

To predict the NPF by mathematical relations, the proposed models by Stylios and Xu (1995) and Lomov (1998) are extended for a twill woven structure. The NPF is calculated based on resistance forces due to yarn tensile elongation, yarn resistance to bending in the near of the sewing needle while the needle penetrates into the fabric, friction between weft and warp yarns, needle profile shape, and friction between sewing needle and yarns. In order to evaluate the obtained results, nine different denim fabric samples are produced, and five sewing needles with different sizes are used. The NPF is measured on the Instron tensile tester to simulate sewing process.

The results show that there is a good relationship between the predicted and experimental values of the NPF (R2=0.831, MSE=0.079, and MAPE=9.51 percent). Moreover, it is found that the performance of developed model to predict the NPF for needle sizes of 80, 90, 100, and 110 (Nm) is better than that of needle size of 120 (Nm). Generally, the developed theoretical model can predict the NPF in fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern.

The fabrics with twill weave pattern have a complicated structure than plain pattern. So, in this research work, the NPF of denim fabric with twill 3/1 weave pattern was theoretically predicted on the basis of yarn elongation, changing of yarn bent shape in the near of the sewing needle, and friction between warp and weft yarns. The NPF was measured in the successive cycle loading conditions similar to sewing machine process by using a designed and constructed instrument, which is mounted on the Instron tensile tester.

The purpose of this research is to study the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey fabrics with properties made of cotton and spandex yarn.

Samples with 100 percent cotton yarns, spandex yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex extension. After the dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types (cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) to evaluate the most appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force and weight loss percent under different levels of spandex extension.

Results showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high decreases in weight loss percent for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabrics.

There is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are used in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density. This research compares the effects of two different softener types at different concentrations on the properties of both plain jersey fabric produced from 100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with different stitch density.

Occurrence of fabric rupture is a problem that can influence fabric performance during wear. In this regard, fabric tearing resistance is considered by manufacturers and consumers and enhancing tear resistance through optimization of related parameters is beneficial.

In this study, the tearing resistance of a series of shirting fabrics with various weave patterns and weft densities were investigated by both static and dynamic tear test methods. Moreover, the constituent yarn's frictional and tensile behaviour was evaluated and their relation with tear resistance was analysis.

According to the outcomes, the fabric firmness and density and friction of yarns affect the tear resistance, reversely. However an improvement in yarn's tenacity can raise the tear resistance.

In this study it was aimed to not only consider influence of both static and dynamic tear test approach on the tearing performance of fabrics regarding their structural parameters, the impact of the constituent's yarn properties include tensile behaviour and friction coefficient on the tearing performance of fabric considered, as well.

The purpose of this paper is to theoretically calculate and predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in woven denim fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern, based on the geometrical, physical, and mechanical properties of fabric and constituent weft and warp yarns.

In order to calculate the NPF by mathematical relations, the suggested model by Stylios and Xu (1995) is extended. While the needle penetrates into the fabric, the NPF is calculated on the basis of yarn tensile elongation, needle profile shape, and friction between needle and yarns. To accurately evaluate the developed model, nine different commercial denim fabric samples with various weft densities and linear density of weft yarns are produced, also five needles with different sizes are utilized. The NPF is measured in the successive cycle loading conditions similar to sewing machine process by using a designed and constructed instrument, which mounted on the Instron tensile tester.

Comparing the predicted and experimental values indicated that the accuracy of model to predict the NPF is partly acceptable (R2=0.734). To improve the developed model, in addition to the forces which applied on needle due to yarn elongation, the other forces such as friction between weft and warp yarns, and yarn resistance to bending in the near of the sewing needle, which resist against needle penetration, can be considered.

The fabrics with twill weave pattern have a complicated structure than plain pattern, therefore, in this paper the NPF of denim fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern were theoretically calculated based on yarn elongation. The spacing between centers of yarns in these fabrics is obtained by deriving a new formula. The NPF is measured on the Instron tensile tester to simulate sewing process.

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The purpose of this study was to produce yarns from three different spinning techniques, i.e.Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) ring spinning and rotor spinning. Those yarns were then used to produce fabrics. Then, the effect of silicone softener on tactile comfort of fabric was investigated.

Three different yarns, i.e. Ring, Rotor and MVS yarns, were used to make fabrics using CCI sample loom which were then subjected to post treatments like desizing, scouring and bleaching. After the completion of the dyeing process, silicone-based softener was used to improve the hand feel of fabrics. The structures of three yarns were evaluated using Scanning electron microscopy. The fabrics were evaluated against compression, bending and surface properties using Kawabata evaluation system.

The fabric made of MVS yarn depicted more geometrical roughness, coefficient of friction and bending rigidity but less compressibility as compared to fabrics made with other yarns. It was observed that softener concentration has a direct relationship with thickness and bending rigidity of the fabric, and inverse relationship with coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness of the fabric.

MVS yarn has some superior properties over rotor and ring spun yarn like high production rates, high resistance to pilling, clear appearance and stability against deformation but has disadvantage that it has less compressibility. Therefore, softener is applied on the fabric, to address this issue, so that it could also be used for apparels application.