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The purpose of this research is to study the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey fabrics with properties made of cotton and spandex yarn.

Samples with 100 percent cotton yarns, spandex yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex extension. After the dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types (cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) to evaluate the most appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force and weight loss percent under different levels of spandex extension.

Results showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high decreases in weight loss percent for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabrics.

There is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are used in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density. This research compares the effects of two different softener types at different concentrations on the properties of both plain jersey fabric produced from 100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with different stitch density.

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of knit fabric stitch patterns, as indicated by fabric thickness variations, on moisture responsiveness for different seamless knitted wool-based fabrics.

Forty fabrics were created on a Santoni Top-2 circular knitting machine by using combinations of jersey, tuck and float stitches in combinations of wool/Nylon, wool, and spandex yarns. Physical properties of the knit fabrics as well as changes in fabric thickness during dry, wet, after 30 min air-drying and after 60 min air-drying conditions were compared. Repeated measures ANOVA tests and bivariate correlation analysis were conducted.

The results indicated that changes in moisture conditions had a significant effect on fabric thickness, and these changes differed by stitch pattern groups. Float patterns and tuck/rib patterns showed a continued relaxation of fabric thickness through all conditions, but tuck stitches and rib stitches showed a thickness recovery. Wool swatches, unlike the wool/Nylon swatches, increased their average thickness in after 60 min air-drying condition compared to 30 min air-drying condition.

This research documents the moisture responsive properties for wool based yarns, as emerging natural functional materials for seamless knitting industry, with applications in garments for activewear as well as healthcare.

Elastane yarns contribute significant elastic properties to all types of fabrics and these properties for very important for wears including tights, sportswear, under wear, casual wear, swimwear, corsetry, etc. in terms of appearance, comfort and duration of wear. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

It is investigated with this study strength, fatigue and bagging properties of plated plain knitted fabrics containing different rates of elastane.

The study showed that single jersey, not having elastane and having the lowest fabric tightness, has the lowest bursting strength, the highest fatigue loading values in high extensions, the lowest fatigue height values and the worst bagging behavior. On the contrary of single jersey, full elastane fabric has the exact opposite characteristics considering the fabric properties examined.

Fabric with 1×1 elastane and fabric with 2×1 elastane is similar, and these fabrics show bagging behavior better than single jersey and worse than full elastane fabric whereas the other properties of these fabrics are close to full elastane fabric.

This study aims to investigate if engineered compression variations using moisture-responsive knitted fabric design can improve breast support in seamless knitted sports bras.

An experimental approach was used to integrate a novel moisture-responsive fabric panel into a seamless knitted bra, and the resulting compression variability in dry versus wet conditions were compared with those of a control bra. Air permeability and elongation testing of between breasts fabric panels was conducted in dry and wet conditions, followed by three-dimensional body scanning of eight human participants wearing the two bras in similar conditions. Questionnaires were used to evaluate perceived comfort and breast support of both bras in both conditions.

Air permeability test results showed that the novel panel had the highest variance between dry and wet conditions, confirming its moisture-responsive design, and increased its elongation coefficient in both wale and course directions in wet condition. There were significant main effects of bra type and body location on breast compression measurements. Breast circumferences in the novel bra were significantly larger than in the control bra condition. The significant two-way interaction between bra type and moisture condition showed that the control bra lost compressive power in wet condition, whereas the novel bra became more compressive when wet. Changes in compression were confirmed by participants’ perception of tighter straps and drier breast comfort.

These findings add to the limited scientific knowledge of moisture adaptive bra design using engineered knitted fabrics via advanced manufacturing technologies, with possible applications beyond sports bras, such as bras for breast surgery recovering patients.

The purpose of this paper is to understand compression garment in the area of medical industry, compression garments were used initially for patients with circulatory problems. External pressure was created by compression garments on the body surface which prevents blood clots, leg swelling and improves venous hemodynamics.

Compression rehabilitation is a significant element in the effective management of lower limb problems of people associated with venous, lymphatic, fat disorders like lipoedema.

Compression garments have been attributed primarily for the increase in blood flow, improvement in recovery, reduction in muscle vibration that increase stability, improvement in thermoregulation, decrease in muscle pain, elimination of blood lactate and creatine kinase after exercise.

Compression garments are extraordinary clothes that contain elastomeric yarns or fibers that are responsible for applying significant mechanical pressure on the required body surface for compressing, stabilizing and supporting underlying tissues.

This chapter takes inspiration from Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick’s artistic work and academic writing to attend to some of the under-utilised dimensions of her work to date, that of making. Using unconventional methodologies from Sedgewick, I present my own unconventional methodologies to queer CMS. In this way through theory and making, we can queer CMS anew.