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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2008

Afaf Farag Shahba

Different types of curtain fabrics were subject to a long lasting treatment. These fabrics are generally used in the manufacture of curtain fabrics, namely 100% cotton…

Abstract

Different types of curtain fabrics were subject to a long lasting treatment. These fabrics are generally used in the manufacture of curtain fabrics, namely 100% cotton, cotton/viscose, cotton/linen and cotton/polyester. In addition to these fabrics, polyester/linen and polyester/viscose blend fabrics were also used. All these fabrics were separately functionalized with monochlorotriazenyl β-cyclodextrin (R-β-CD) and then treated with citronella oil or camphor. The perfumed curtain fabrics were evaluated for smell intensity during almost six months, retained tensile strength and durability of odour (smell) against several washing cycles. Results obtained show that the odour retention of functionalized curtain fabrics is dependent on the amount of β-CD moieties on the curtain fabrics (expressed as nitrogen content).

Unmodified curtain fabric lost its odour after 2 months and the smell intensity was approximately zero. It was also found that at the same nitrogen content (i.e., same amount of β-CD moieties on the fabrics); the odour retention of modified curtain fabrics treated with either citronella oil or camphor was identical. In addition, cellulosic-based curtain fabrics (100% cotton, cotton/viscose and cotton/linen fabrics) showed higher odour retention after 6 months and higher resistance against washing compared with polyester-based curtain fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 April 2024

Zhe Liu, Yichen Yang and Xiuchen Wang

Stainless-steel electromagnetic shielding (EMS) fabrics are widely applied as protective materials against electromagnetic interference (EMI). However, these fabrics primarily…

Abstract

Purpose

Stainless-steel electromagnetic shielding (EMS) fabrics are widely applied as protective materials against electromagnetic interference (EMI). However, these fabrics primarily shield electromagnetic waves through reflection, which can lead to the formation of resonance effects that severely compromise their protective capabilities and potentially cause secondary electromagnetic pollution in the external environment.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, carbon nanotube fibers are added via spacing method to replace some stainless-steel fibers to impart absorbing properties to stainless-steel EMS fabric. The shielding effectiveness (SE) of the EMS fabrics across various polarization directions is analyzed. Additionally, a spacing arrangement for the carbon nanotube fibers is designed. The EMS fabric with carbon nanotube fibers is manufactured using a semi-automatic sample loom, and its SE is tested using a small window method test box in both vertical and horizontal polarization directions.

Findings

According to the experimental data and electromagnetic theory analysis, it is determined that when the spacing between the carbon nanotube fibers is less than a specific distance, the SE of the stainless-steel EMS fabric significantly improves. The fabric exhibits stable absorbing properties within the tested frequency range, effectively addressing the issue of secondary damage that arises from relying solely on reflective shielding. Conversely, as the spacing between the carbon nanotube fibers exceeds this distance, the SE diminishes. Notably, the SE in the vertical polarization direction is substantially higher than that in the horizontal polarization direction at the same frequency.

Originality/value

This study provides a new path for the development of high-performance EMS fabrics with good wave-absorption characteristics and SE.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 April 2024

K.G. Rumesh Samarawickrama, U.G. Samudrika Wijayapala and C.A. Nandana Fernando

The purpose of this study is to extract and characterize a novel natural dye from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica and the extraction with finding ways of dyeing cotton fabric

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to extract and characterize a novel natural dye from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica and the extraction with finding ways of dyeing cotton fabric using three mordants.

Design/methodology/approach

The colouring agents were extracted from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica using an aqueous extraction method. The extract was characterized using analysis methods of pH, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), ultraviolet-visible (UV-vis) and cyclic voltammetry measurement. The extract was applied to cotton fabric samples using a non-mordant and three mordants under the two mordanting methods. The dyeing performance of the extracted colouring agent was evaluated using colour fastness properties, colour strength (K/S) and colour space (CIE Lab).

Findings

The aqueous dye extract showed reddish-brown colour, and its pH was 5.94. The GC-MS analysis revealed that the dye extract from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica contained active chemical compounds. The UV-vis and FTIR analyses found that groups influenced the reddish-brown colour of the dye extraction. The cyclic voltammetry measurements discovered the electrochemical properties of the dye extraction. The mordanted fabric samples showed better colour fastness properties than the non-mordanted fabric sample. The K/S and CIE Lab results indicate that the cotton fabric samples dyed with mordants showed more significant dye affinities than non-mordanted fabric samples.

Originality/value

Researchers have never discovered that the Lannea coromandelica leaf extract is a natural dye for cotton fabric dyeing. The findings of this study showed that natural dyes extracted from Lannea coromandelica leaf could be an efficient colouring agent for use in cotton fabric.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 March 2024

Rıza Atav and Özge Çolakoğlu

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate colors directly over the photos of fabric samples instead of color measuring with spectrophotometer which is thought to be useful in terms of online digital color assessment.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100% polyester (150 denier) single jersey knitted fabrics (weight: 145 g/m2, course density: 15 loops/cm, wale density: 24 loops/cm) were used in the trials. The effect of laser treatments before and after dyeing on color was investigated. Laser treatments were applied to fabrics at different resolutions (20, 25 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (60, 80 and 100 µs) before dyeing. The power of the laser beam was 210 W and the wavelength was 10.6 µm. In order to determine the effect of laser treatment on polyester; FTIR analysis, SEM-EDX analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to untreated and treated fabric samples.

Findings

It was found that treatments with laser have a significant effect on disperse dye-uptake of polyester fibers, and for this reason laser-treated fabrics were dyed in darker shade. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 20 and 25 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in polyester fabrics is that if some areas of fabrics are not treated with laser and some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi 60 µs and 25 dpi 60 µs, it will be possible to obtain patterns containing three different shades of the same color on the fabric.

Originality/value

When the literature is examined, it is seen that there are various studies on the dyeability and patterning of polyester fabrics with disperse dyes by laser technology. As it is known, today color measurement is done digitally using a spectrophotometer. However, when we look at a photograph on computer screens, the colors we see are defined by RGB (red-green-blue) values, while in the spectrophotometer they are defined by L*a*b* (L*: lightness-darkness, a*: redness-greenness, b*: yellowness-blueness) values. Especially when it is desired to produce various design products by creating patterns with laser technology, it would be more useful to show the color directly to the customer on the computer screen and to be able to speak over the same values on the color. For this reason, in this study, the color measurement of the fabric samples was not made with a spectrophotometer, instead, the RGB values obtained from the photographs of the samples were converted into L*a*b* values with MATLAB and interpreted, that is, a digital color evaluation was made on the photographs. Therefore, it is believed that this study will contribute to the literature.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 April 2024

Faryal Yousaf, Shabana Sajjad, Faiza Tauqeer, Tanveer Hussain, Shahnaz Khattak and Fatima Iftikhar

Quality assessment of textile products is of prime concern to intimately meet consumer demands. The dilemma faced by textile producers is to figure out the stability among quality…

Abstract

Purpose

Quality assessment of textile products is of prime concern to intimately meet consumer demands. The dilemma faced by textile producers is to figure out the stability among quality criteria and efficiently deal with target specifications. Hence, the basic devotion is to attain the optimum value product which entirely satisfies the views and perceptions of consumers. Selection of best fabric among several alternatives in the presence of contradictory measures is a disputing problem in multicriteria decision-making.

Design/methodology/approach

In the current study, the analytic hierarchy process (AHP) and preference ranking organization method for enrichment evaluation (PROMETHEE) are proficiently used to solve the problem in selection of branded woven shawls. AHP method verifies comparative weights of the criteria selection, while the ranking of fabric alternatives grounded on specific net-outranking flows is executed through PROMETHEE II method.

Findings

The collective AHP and PROMETHEE approaches are applied for the useful accomplishment of grading of branded shawls based on multicriteria weights, used for effective selection of fabric materials in the textile market.

Practical implications

In the apparel industry, fabric and garment manufacturers often rely on hit-and-trial methods, leading to significant wastage of valuable resources and time, in achieving the desirable fabric qualities. The implementation of the findings can assist apparel manufacturers in streamlining their fabric selection processes based on multiple criteria. By adopting this method, industry players can make informed decisions, ensuring a balance between quality standards and consumer expectations, thereby enhancing both product value and market competitiveness.

Originality/value

The methods of Visual PROMETHEE and AHP are assimilated to offer a complete method for the selection and grading of fabrics with reference to multiple selection criteria.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 1992

C. Garrison, R. Thackeray and S. Mangum

Soil and stain removal has always been a contributing factor in the acceptance of a neat and clean appearance for most types of wearing apparel. Investigates the strength and…

Abstract

Soil and stain removal has always been a contributing factor in the acceptance of a neat and clean appearance for most types of wearing apparel. Investigates the strength and whiteness retention and degree of stain removal of representative nurse‐uniform fabrics, after removal of selected medicinal and other dye‐based stains. Although many fabric properties affect the ease of soil removal or the retention of fabric strength, the objective was to compare the serviceability of twill versus rib weave fabrics and soil‐release versus non‐soil‐release finished fabrics. Of the stains tested, the most problematic stain was that created by permanent marker. Although removed in the early stages of testing, it became increasingly difficult to maintain fabric whiteness.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 4 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Iwona Frydrych and Agnieszka Greszta

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine…

Abstract

Purpose

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

Design/methodology/approach

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

Originality/value

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2000

S. Kawabata, Masako Niwa, R. Koztowsky, S. Manys, K. Nakano and Takako Inoue

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made…

Abstract

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1995

Roshan L. Shishoo

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of…

993

Abstract

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 7 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 1994

S.D. McWaters, T.G. Clapp and J.W. Eischen

Introduces and evaluates a finite‐element computer model which predicts the bending behaviour of fabric in contact with a surface, in order to optimize the design of equipment…

269

Abstract

Introduces and evaluates a finite‐element computer model which predicts the bending behaviour of fabric in contact with a surface, in order to optimize the design of equipment used for automated processing of apparel. Describes how simulations were executed for all combinations of eight fabrics and three contact surfaces, and presents the experimental results obtained for similar conditions and fabrics. Proves the validity of the computer model by comparing the experimental results with those obtained by simulation. Describes how the computer model could be used to choose the optimum diameter of a fabric feeder picking roller.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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