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This paper aims to assess the relationships amongst the tearing strength of fabrics after each chemical processing stage and after finishing of plain-woven cotton fabric. An effort has been made to study the effect of different finishing chemicals (tear improver) and their different concentrations on the high-density fabric tear strength and its sub-component with respect to the co-efficient of friction value of yarns for all the fabric samples. It also aims to establish a statistical model for prediction of tear strength with identified parameters as yarn–yarn friction co-efficient, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength.

In case of woven fabrics, it cannot be assumed that only yarn friction plays the role in deciding fabric-tearing strength. Whether the static or kinetic frictions need to be considered or the linear or capstan frictions have to be analyzed, to incorporate the results of friction analysis in the tearing behavior, need to be assessed. In the present work through a fabrication of yarn–yarn friction measurement, under a synchronized slow speed as that of actual fabric tearing (50 mm/min), has been carried out. After each wet processing stage, surface characteristics of yarns have been changed. Surface of yarns becomes smoother after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns, accordingly.

After each wet processing stage, the surface characteristics of yarns are changed. Surface structure of yarns becomes smooth after finishing and rough after dyeing, which affects the co-efficient of friction of yarns. For all the fabrics, the weft-way tearing strength is always higher than warp-way tearing strength. It is also observed that yarn pullout force is not the only responsible factor for tearing strength of such fabric. It is because of the combined action of yarn–yarn friction, yarn pullout force and single yarn strength for a given structure.

A more extensive investigation with respect to concentration as well as further variety of chemicals requires to be identified for the optimum concentration level for each chemical. A mathematical model based on the three parameters as yarn–yarn co-efficient of friction, yarn pullout force and yarn strength for all woven fabric structure to achieve optimum strength level has been established which could be further extended for each fabric structures.

The problem has been identified from the day-to-day exercise of the commercial textile industry. The whole of the sample preparations have been done in the industry by using commercial machines under standard industrial conditions. The findings have been discussed and suitably introduced in the industry.

The whole of this paper has been unique in idea origination, sample preparation and execution of tests. The findings are very important for the researchers as well as for textile industry.

The essential properties of active sports fabrics are moisture management, quick-drying, body heat management and thermal regulations. Fibre type, blending nature, yarn and fabric structure and the finishing treatment are the key parameters that influenced the performance of the clothing meant for sportswear. This study aims to investigate the effect of fibre blending and structural tightness factors on bi-layer sport fabric's dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties.

In this study, 12 different bi-layer inter-lock fabrics were produced. Polyester filament (120 Denier) yarn was fed to form the backside of the fabric, and the face side was varied with cotton, modal, wool and soya spun yarns of 30sNe. Three different types of structural tightness factors were considered, such as low, medium and high were taken for sample development. The assessment towards dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties was carried out on all the samples.

The polyester-modal blend with a high tightness factor has shown maximum overall moisture management capability (OMMC) values of 0.73 and air permeability of 205.3 cm³/cm²/s. The same sample has shown comparatively higher thermal conductivity of 61.72 × 10^–3 W m^-1 °C^-1(Under compression state) and 58.45 × 10^–3 W m^-1 °C^-1 (under recovery state). In the case of surface roughness is concerned, polyester-modal blends have shown the lowest surface roughness, surface roughness amplitude and surface friction co-efficient. Among the selected fibre combinations, the overall comfort level of polyester-modal bi-layer knitted structure with a higher tightness factor is appreciable. Polyester-modal is more suitable for active sportswear among the four fiber blend combinations.

The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of fibre blends, structural tightness factor and other process specifications for the development of bi-layer fabric for active sportswear applications. The dynamic functional testing methods (Moisture management and Thermal properties) were carried out to simulate the actual wearing environment of the sports clothing. This study will create a new scope of research opportunities in the field of bi-layer sports textiles.

This study was conducted to explore the influence of fibre blend and structural tightness factor on the comfort level of sportswear and to find the suitable fibre blend for active sportswear clothing.

Fabrics’ thermal properties greatly influence human comfort during wear. For this reason, fabrics with optimum thermal properties need to be developed. This paper aims to investigate the effect of weft yarn twist levels on thermal and surface properties of 100 per cent cotton woven fabrics.

Five types of plain woven cotton fabrics were manufactured using weft yarns with 900, 905, 910, 915 and 920 twists/meter (Tpm). The other parameters of the samples as count, thread density and fabric structures were kept constant. Fabric thermal properties were evaluated by measuring its thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, actual insulation, water permeability, air permeability and wicking ability. The fabric compression and surface properties were also evaluated because they contribute to the overall clothing comfort.

The results showed that actual insulation and thermal resistance property decreased with an increase in twists/meter of the weft yarn. However, thermal conductivity does not significantly change while fabric compression reduced with an increase in twist as the surface roughness increased.

Comfort is a fundamental requirement in human daily existence, and it is greatly influenced by clothing, which comes in close contact with the human skin. Fabrics’ thermal properties greatly influence human comfort during wear. For this reason, fabrics with optimum thermal properties need to be developed.

The application of rinse cycle softener after the household laundry process has become more common in recent times. This study aims to understand the effect of repeated rinse cycle softener treatment on the mechanical and frictional properties of the cotton fabric.

Cotton-woven fabric is treated with commercial rinse cycle softener repeatedly for 15 times. After treatment, the fabric was evaluated for the changes in mechanical properties using the Kawabata evaluation system.

The results of this study revealed that the softener treatment reduces the tensile properties (41.25%) and increases the overall extensibility of the fabric up to 20.89%. The shear (34.57%) and bending rigidity of the treated fabric are reduced considerably than the untreated fabric (58.02%). The increment in the fabric softness and fluffiness was confirmed with the increment in the compression and the difference between the initial and final thickness at maximum pressure. Statistical significance (p < 0.05) is noted only in the case of bending and surface friction properties (dynamic friction).

The usage of rinse cycle softeners in the household laundry has a significant influence on the comfort characteristics of the cotton-woven fabric. Repeated usage of rinse cycle softener increased the fabric softness and fluffiness of the fabric and also reduced the tensile properties significantly.

Polyester filament fabrics made from microdenier and normal denier yarn are compared for their low stress mechanical properties and hand values. Effects of twisting and sizing on microdenier filament fabric are studied. Sizing proves to be the most important process for microdenier multifilament yarn to realise its speciality effect in the fabric made out of this yarn.

Under this heading are published regularly abstracts of all Reports and Memoranda of the Aeronautical Research Committee, Reports and Technical Notes of the U.S. National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics, and publications of other similar research bodies as issued

The objective of this study is to investigate how country risk, different political actions from the government and bureaucratic behavior influence the activities in industry supply chains (SCs) in emerging markets. The main objective of this study is to investigate the influence of these external stakeholders’ elements to the demand-side and supply-side drivers and barriers for improving competitiveness of Ready-Made Garment (RMG) industry in the way of analyzing supply chain. Considering the phenomenon of recent change in the RMG business environment and the competitiveness issues this study uses the principles of stakeholder and resource dependence theory and aims to find out some factors which influence to make an efficient supply chain for improving competitiveness. The RMG industry of Bangladesh is the case application of this study. Following a positivist paradigm, this study adopts a two phase sequential mixed-method research design consisting of qualitative and quantitative approaches. A tentative research model is developed first based on extensive literature review. Qualitative field study is then carried out to fine tune the initial research model. Findings from the qualitative method are also used to develop measures and instruments for the next phase of quantitative method. A survey is carried out with sample of top and middle level executives of different garment companies of Dhaka city in Bangladesh and the collected quantitative data are analyzed by partial least square-based structural equation modeling. The findings support eight hypotheses. From the analysis the external stakeholders’ elements like bureaucratic behavior and country risk have significant influence to the barriers. From the internal stakeholders’ point of view the manufacturers’ and buyers’ drivers have significant influence on the competitiveness. Therefore, stakeholders need to take proper action to reduce the barriers and increase the drivers, as the drivers have positive influence to improve competitiveness.

This study has both theoretical and practical contributions. This study represents an important contribution to the theory by integrating two theoretical perceptions to identify factors of the RMG industry’s SC that affect the competitiveness of the RMG industry. This research study contributes to the understanding of both external and internal stakeholders of national and international perspectives in the RMG (textile and clothing) business. It combines the insights of stakeholder and resource dependence theories along with the concept of the SC in improving effectiveness. In a practical sense, this study certainly contributes to the Bangladeshi RMG industry. In accordance with the desire of the RMG manufacturers, the research has shown that some influential constructs of the RMG industry’s SC affect the competitiveness of the RMG industry. The outcome of the study is useful for various stakeholders of the Bangladeshi RMG industry sector ranging from the government to various private organizations. The applications of this study are extendable through further adaptation in other industries and various geographic contexts.

To provide researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drape and review the literature related to fabric drape.Design/methodology/approach – In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in investigating the aesthetic behavior of fabrics due to the developments in objective evaluation techniques. To understand drape behavior, it is essential to know how drape is measured quantitatively. This paper reviews research related to drape characteristics of fabrics, two‐dimensional instruments and analysis of drape by measuring stiffness, three‐dimensional instruments developed to measure drape, fabric mechanical properties and their influence on drape measurement, and the latest developments in the field including image analysis, the dynamic drape tester and other related research.Findings – Many instruments for measuring drape have been developed including the earliest that assessed stiffness of fabrics, later versions of drape meters and recent innovative instruments for capturing complex drape information. Even though extensive detail for simple geometric forms such as circles and squares can be provided by the newest methods, measurement of the drape characteristics of complex forms needs the consideration of researchers to extend the work on drape measurement to garments. It was also noted that there are some contradictory conclusions regarding the properties influencing fabric drape.Originality/value – This paper is offered as a concise reference for individuals beginning research in the area of fabric drape.

THE invitations which some 4,000 scientists and technologists accept every year to visit the National Physical Laboratory during the two Open Days in May are equally available to such accredited representatives of industrial concerns as care to apply for them.

WE have recently published one or two articles in which a contributor with a considerable knowledge of the Chinese economy has described some of that country's industrial activities. The articles have been scrupulously factual and impartial in revealing the ingenuity which has enabled a people desperately short of the technological resources of the industrialised nations to secure for themselves some of life's essentials.