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Dref-3 friction spun core yarns produced using staple fibre yarn as the core, e.g. Jute core yarn wrapped with cotton fibre, have poorer mechanical properties compared to the core yarn itself. The purpose of this study was to understand the structure of such yarns, that will lead to the optimization of fibre, machine and process variables for production of better quality yarn from the Dref-3/3000 machines.

The Dref spinning trials were conducted following a full factorial design with six variables, all with two operative levels. The Dref-3 friction spun yarn, in which the core is a plied, twisted ring yarn composed of cotton singles and the sheath, formed from the same cotton fibres making the singles, has been examined. The structures have also been studied by using the tracer fibre technique.

It was observed that rather than depending on the plied core yarn, the tensile properties of the Dref-3 yarn are significantly determined by the parameters those affect the constituent single yarn tensile properties, i.e. the amount of twist and its twist direction, yarn linear density and the sheath fibre proportion used during the Dref spinning in making the final yarn. Further, when the twist direction of single yarn, double yarn and the Dref spinning false twisting are in the same direction, the produced core-sheath yarn exhibits better tensile properties.

The understanding of the yarn structure will lead to optimized production of all staple fibre core Dref spun yarns.

The research work may lead to utilization of coarse and harsh untapped natural fibres to the production of value-added textile products.

Though an earlier research has reported the effects of sheath fibre fineness and length on the tensile and bending properties of Dref-3 friction yarn, the present study is the first documented attempt using the tracer fibre technique to understand Dref-3 yarn structure with plied staple fibrous core.

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Clothing must also assist the body’s thermal control function under changing physical loads in such a way that the body’s thermal and moisture management is balanced, and a microclimate is created next to the skin. One of the factors which affect moisture transport in a fabric is a fibre type. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to blend the natural hollow and low density fibre, milkweed, with cotton fibre at different proportions and to analyse and compare the influence of milkweed blend proportion on moisture management properties of rotor yarn fabrics with 100 per cent cotton fabric.

In the present study, cotton/milkweed blended rotor yarns were produced by using S-4 cotton variety and milkweed fibres in three different blend proportions such as cotton/milkweed 80/20, 60/40 and 40/60 along with 100 per cent cotton yarn with yarn count of 20 Ne. The single jersey knitted fabrics were produced with similar constructional parameters and then the fabrics were then scoured, bleached and neutralised as per the standard procedure. The fabrics have been analysed for its various moisture management properties using moisture management tester (MMT) and are statistically analysed.

The results indicate that, all the C/M blended fabrics have been classified as “moisture management fabric” and 100 per cent cotton fabric has been classified as “Fast absorbing and Quick Drying Fabric”. The overall moisture management capacity of C/M 40/60 fabric is excellent and could be used for summer, active and summer wear applications. One-way ANOVA analysis carried out at 95 per cent confidence level showed that the results are statistically significant. The pair-wise strength and association between various moisture management indices was analysed using Pearson correlation coefficient and observed that OWTC and OMMC was found to be positively and linearly related to each other.

The authors are confident that the cotton/milkweed blended yarns can be used as an inner wear and sportswear applications owing to the higher moisture regain and hollowness of milkweed fibre combined with the low packing density of C/M blended yarns which leads to overall improvement in moisture management properties of fabrics.