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The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of weft yarn diameter and pick density on the properties of surface roughness (SMD) of 3/1 (Z) twill-woven fabrics in three measurement directions weft (0°), the warp (90°) and the diagonal (45°).

Nine 3/1 (Z) twill samples were prepared with two factors and three levels and their roughness values were measured in the weft (0°), warp (90°) and diagonal (45°) directions of 3/1 (Z) twill fabrics using the Kawabata-FB4 instrument. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) is used to determine the effect of weft yarn diameter and pick density on SMD properties and comparisons were done in the weft (0°), the warp (90°) and the diagonal (45°) directions.

From experimental analysis, weft yarn diameter and pick density affect SMD of 3/1 (Z) twill-woven fabrics in both diagonal (45°) and weft (0°) directions but slightly affect warp (90°) direction. Maximum SMD values were observed in diagonal (45°) directions and the minimum was in warp (90°) directions of fabrics. Weft yarn diameter and pick density are statistically significant on SMD values of 3/1 (Z) twill-woven fabrics for three directions at a 95% confidence interval. Parameter variation in weft directions of 3/1 (Z) twill-woven fabrics also varies SMD values in three directions measurements

The findings of this study can be usually used for textile technology, industries and laboratories to create a basic understanding for measuring roughness properties of 3/1 (Z) twill fabric. It is also possible to identify the surface characterizations in different directions of measurement for their usage in some specific areas of end application like consumer goods, home textiles, technical textiles, etc.

In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.

The purpose of this paper is to establish a simple and practical elastica model for the deflection of weft (warp) in a plain wave fabric.

The weft yarn is considered as an elastic beam fixed supported at the ends and deflected in the middle by a vertical load. An analytical model, based on the elastic theory and small deflection case is adopted to study the factors affecting the deflection of the yarn. To investigate the model, yarns with different rigidities are used. A total of five different yarn counts are produced in the same ring spinning system and then used as weft yarn in a plain weave fabric. All other parameters of the yarns and the fabrics are kept identical. Fresh fabrics are analyzed and the maximum deflection of the weft is measured using the microscope. The actual curves of the deflected weft are then compared with the theoretical curves.

The experimental curves show to agree well with the theoretical model. The results also show that as yarn linear density decreases, the deflection increases.

The paper shows that while the large deformation “elastica” theory is typically used for woven fabric modeling, the small deflection theory can be useful for rapid computation.

The purpose of this paper is to theoretically compute and predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in woven denim fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern on the basis of geometrical, physical, and mechanical properties of yarns and fabric, and characteristics of sewing needle.

To predict the NPF by mathematical relations, the proposed models by Stylios and Xu (1995) and Lomov (1998) are extended for a twill woven structure. The NPF is calculated based on resistance forces due to yarn tensile elongation, yarn resistance to bending in the near of the sewing needle while the needle penetrates into the fabric, friction between weft and warp yarns, needle profile shape, and friction between sewing needle and yarns. In order to evaluate the obtained results, nine different denim fabric samples are produced, and five sewing needles with different sizes are used. The NPF is measured on the Instron tensile tester to simulate sewing process.

The results show that there is a good relationship between the predicted and experimental values of the NPF (R2=0.831, MSE=0.079, and MAPE=9.51 percent). Moreover, it is found that the performance of developed model to predict the NPF for needle sizes of 80, 90, 100, and 110 (Nm) is better than that of needle size of 120 (Nm). Generally, the developed theoretical model can predict the NPF in fabrics with twill 3/1 weave pattern.

The fabrics with twill weave pattern have a complicated structure than plain pattern. So, in this research work, the NPF of denim fabric with twill 3/1 weave pattern was theoretically predicted on the basis of yarn elongation, changing of yarn bent shape in the near of the sewing needle, and friction between warp and weft yarns. The NPF was measured in the successive cycle loading conditions similar to sewing machine process by using a designed and constructed instrument, which is mounted on the Instron tensile tester.

The purpose of this paper is to deal with the energy efficiency of textile weaving machines. Increasing energy costs and environmental impact are a challenge for textile manufacturers as well as for the developers of textile production machines. As example, air jet weaving is the most productive but also most energy consuming weaving method.

A method based on energy efficiency considered as the main requirements in the design phase has been developed at the Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Aachen, Germany, in order to improve energy efficiency of air-jet weaving machines. Technological developments are always concerned about low energy costs, low environmental impact, high productivity and constant product quality. The high degree of energy consumption of the method can be ascribed to the high need of compressed air required by the relay nozzles during the weft insertion process.

The relay nozzles of the air-jet weaving technology consume up to 80 percent of the air required by the weft insertion process. At ITA a new nozzle concept was developed. The developed geometry is a so called high-volume-low-pressure nozzle, based on convergent nozzle aerodynamic theory.

By employing such new concept of relay nozzles within the weft insertion process, energy savings are possible up to 30 percent.

This study aims to optimize the parametric combination of injected slub yarn to achieve least abrasive damage on fabrics produced from it.

Single base injected slub yarn structural parameters, vis-à-vis slub length, slub thickness and slub frequency, were varied during preparation of yarn samples under this research work. A total of 17 yarn samples were produced according to the Box and Bhenken design of the experiment. Subsequently knitted and woven (using injected slub yarns in the weft only) fabric samples were prepared from these yarns. Yarn and fabric samples were abraded with standard instruments to see the impact of yarn structural parameters on abrasive damage of fabric in terms of fabric mass loss and appearance deterioration. From the test results, empirical models relating to slub parameters and fabric abrasion behavior were developed through a backward elimination regression approach. Subsequently, a set of optimal parametric combinations was derived with multi-objective evolutionary algorithms by using MATLAB software. This was followed by ranking all optimal solutions through technique for order preference by similarity to idle solution (TOPSIS) score analysis.

The injected slub yarn’s structural parameters have a strong influence on the abrasive damage of knitted and woven fabric. It is seen that the best suitable parametric combination of slub parameters for achieving the least abrasive damage is not the same for knitted and woven fabric.

The spinner can explore this concept to find out the best suitable parametric combination during pattern making of injected slub yarn through MATLAB solution followed by TOPSIS score analysis based on their priority of criteria level to ensure better abrasion behavior of fabric produced.

Optimization of parametric combination of injected slub yarns will help to ensure production of fabric with most resistance to abrasion for specific applications. The studies showed that the optimal solution for woven and knitted fabrics is different. The result indicates that in the case of knitted fabric, comparatively lesser slub thickness is found to be suitable for getting better fabric abrasion resistance, whereas in the case of woven fabric, comparatively higher slub thickness is found suitable for the same.

The purpose of this paper is to design woven fabrics with desired quality and low manufacturing cost by optimizing the weave parameters such as count, crimp and thread spacing of warp and weft yarns.

To fulfill this goal, the authors endeavor to devise a searching mechanism based on particle swarm optimization (PSO) for efficiently finding the appropriate combination of weave parameters.

The experimental validation confirms that the proposed method has an excellent search capacity to obtain the best combinations of weave parameters for producing the fabrics with requisite quality at low cost.

The quick response capability of the system would benefit the fabric manufacturers for efficient determination of the required weaving parameters to produce the engineered fabrics.

This paper offers a maiden application of PSO technique to design engineered products in textiles. The method is easy to implement and it is computationally inexpensive as fewer parameters are involved.

The main aim of this contribution is characterization of fabric porosity by the light transmission and comparison of this characteristic with air permeability and idealized geometrical structure of selected weaves. For characterization of air permeability the classical apparatus has been used. The transmission of light through fabrics has been measured on the system LUCIA for image analysis. The porosity of textiles has been evaluated from corresponding construction parameters and idealized models of fabric geometry. The dependencies between the above mentioned characteristics were formalized by using regression analysis.

Eri silk fiber has superior thermal insulation behavior, better softness than cotton fiber. However, Eri silk’s use in the commercial arena has not yet taken off. The purpose of the study is to explore the comfort properties of the fabric, which enhances the commercial acceptance of Eri silk clothing.

In this investigation, three different single knit Eri silk structures were produced with different loop lengths and yarn counts to analyze the influence of process variables on low-stress mechanical properties. To execute the research work, Eri silk spun yarn of three different linear densities (15 tex, 20 tex, 25 tex) were chosen. Three different knitted structures were produced, such as single jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, and two different loop lengths were also selected.

The cellular blister structure has shown appreciable low-stress properties next highest position was attained by the popcorn structure. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the low-stress properties.

The findings of this research will contribute to a greater awareness of Eri silk knitted fabric and its process parameters in relation to its commercial utility.

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the low-stress properties of Eri silk-based thermal clothing.

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.

Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.

The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.

Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.