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The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to obtain the fabric GSM. The relative permittivity of the sample fabrics changes the capacitance value. A relationship between capacitance and GSM that best fits the look-up table is obtained. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

The purpose of the study is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric GSM measurement.

The proposed non-destructive method of fabric GSM measurement using capacitance principle is designed, developed and tested. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

The change in capacitance due to relative permittivity of the sample fabric is in pF range (10-12). The system can be further improved by using a capacitance sensor of sensitivity upto 1 fF (10-15). By doing so, the proposed system provides better results in terms of accuracy and resolution. The system developed can be further extended by making it online equipment which measures the fabric GSM instantaneously.

So far there is no non-destructive testing method available for fabric weight measurement. The newly designed and developed instrument is used to test the fabric both woven and knitted non-destructively.

The purpose of this paper is to establish the regression equation based upon a set of samples prepared through structured design of experiment and form a prediction model for prediction of the areal density gram per square meter (GSM) of the embroidered fabrics and study the influence of basic input parameters.

Embroidery samples are prepared taking input parameters as GSM of the base fabric, linear density of the embroidery thread and stitch density of the embroidery design. Three levels of values are identified for each of the input parameters. Taguchi and Box-Behnken experiment design principles are used to prepare two sets of samples. Linear multiple regression is used to determine the prediction equations based upon each of the two sets and the combined set as well. Prediction equations are statistically verified for the prediction accuracy. Also, surface curves are prepared to study the influence of embroidery parameters on the GSM.

It is found that all the three prediction models developed in this study can predict with a very satisfactory level of accuracy. However, the regression equation based upon the data set prepared according to Taguchi experiment design is emerged as the prediction model with highest level of prediction accuracy. Corresponding equation coefficients and several three-dimensional surface curves are used to study the influence of embroidery parameters and it is found that the stitch density is the most influential input parameter followed by stitch length and the GSM of base fabric.

This can be used to assess the GSM of embroidered fabrics before starting the actual embroidery process. So, this model can help the embroidery designers significantly to pre-estimate the GSM of the embroidered fabrics and select the design parameters accordingly. Also, this model can be a useful tool for estimation of thread consumption and thread cost in embroidery.

The input parameters used here are very basic parameters related to design and materials, which can be easily available. And also, a simple linear multiple regression is used to make the prediction equation simple and easy to use. So, this model can help the embroidery designers or garment designers to select/adjust the embroidery parameters and thread parameters accordingly in the planning and designing stage itself to ensure that the GSM of embroidered fabrics remains within desirable range. Also, this prediction model developed hereby may be a very useful tool for estimation of the consumption and cost of embroidery threads.

This paper presents a very fundamental study to reveal the effect of embroidery parameters on the GSM, through development of regression equations. It can help future researchers in optimizations of input parameters and forming a technical guideline for the embroidery designers for selection of the design parameters for a desired GSM of embroidered fabric.

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of this industry and failure to apply scientific methods along with the manufacturing processes, the wastes in the raw materials, including fabrics, become higher. Besides, quality deficiencies are encountered due to the same reasons. This study aims to determine the optimum total fabric layer height based on the fabric type during the cutting process with a straight knife cutting machine, which provided a decrease in the cutting errors.

Frequently used fabric types in an enterprise operating in organic cotton knitwear were listed. During the cutting tests, the straight knife cutting machine was used as the cutting device. The weight and thickness values of the fabrics were obtained to provide a comparison basis. Two different algorithms were created to evaluate the defective pieces according to fabric type, cutting height and error placement. Cutting resistances of these fabrics were also determined to evaluate the defect reasons. In the end, optimum total fabric layer count and total cutting height suggestions were proposed for each fabric type for a minimum cutting error.

At the end of this study, the error-free layers were identified per fabric type. At the same time, the optimum cutting height was suggested for each fabric basis. For 40/1 single jersey fabrics, the cutting height should be between 2.10 cm and 10.40 cm; for 30/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.65 cm and 5.70 cm; for 20/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.83 cm and 6.70 cm; for two-thread fleece fabrics, between 2.13 cm and 4.70 cm; and for three-thread fleece fabrics, between 0 cm and 4.90 cm.

Within the scope of the study, since the products made of knitted fabric were produced more frequently and in large quantities, the study was carried out with 15 different types of knitted fabrics at 10 different layers. The same methods should be applied for woven, denim and nonwoven fabric types, which would shed light on the following studies.

Due to scarce research carried out on the cutting procedure of the clothing industry in regards to sustainability, this study aims to contribute to this area. The main difference between this study and the studies that mostly make mathematical predictions about the cutting procedure is that it is practice-oriented.

Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study aims to investigate the comfort and mechanical properties of these woven materials.

Taguchi L16 experimental design (5 factors and 4 levels) with response surface methodology tool was used to optimize mechanical and comfort characteristics. The yarn samples used in this study are cotton/banana with a blend ratio of 70:30. Fabric type (A), grams per square metre (GSM; B), yarn count (C), fabric thickness (D) and cloth cover factor (E) are the chosen process characteristics.

The highest tensile strength and tearing strength of the cotton/banana blended fabric samples were obtained as 326.3 N and 90.3 k.gf/cm, respectively. Similarly, the highest thermal conductivity and overall moisture management capacity values were found to be 0.6628 and 3.06 W/mK X10⁻⁴, respectively. The optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum mechanical properties were using canvas fabric structure, 182 GSM, 36^s Ne yarn count, 0.48 mm fabric thickness and 23.5 cloth cover factor. Similarly, the optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum comfort properties were achieved using a twill fabric structure, 182 GSM, 32^s Ne yarn count, 0.4 mm fabric thickness and 23 cloth cover factor.

In contrast to synthetic fabrics, banana fibre and its blended materials are significant ecological solutions for apparel and functional clothing. Products made from banana fibre are a sustainable and green alternative to conventional fabrics. Banana fibre obtained from the pseudostem of the plant has an appearance similar to ramie and bamboo fibres. Numerous studies showed that banana fibre could absorb significant moisture and be spun into yarn through ring and rotor spinning technology. On the other hand, this fibre can be easily combined with cotton, jute, wool and synthetic fibre. The present utilization of pseudostem of banana plant fibre is very minimal. This type of research improves the usability of bananas their blended fabrics as apparel and functional wear.

Parachutes are equipment that is repeatedly used as and when needed. Some of them are used for as many as 60 jumps. The property of the canopy fabric gets deteriorated with use. It is evaluated by destructive tensile and bursting strength. This study aims to focus on the nondestructive evaluation of the canopy fabric's fitness by testing air permeability and relating it with bursting strength. Predictor equations were developed to determine bursting strength from air permeability values.

ANOVA techniques and statistical regression equations were formed.

A series of samples containing five parachutes fabrics was used seven times, and their air permeability and bursting strength were determined to find the extent to the effect of reuse of parachute fabrics on their bursting strength and air permeability determination. It was found that there was a progressive drop in bursting strength and an increase in air permeability. An investigation of the extent of determination in terms of bursting strength and an increase in air permeability following the sense of five different types of parachute fabrics is reported.

The work focuses on the prediction of bursting strength to textile materials only and may not apply to other materials like membranes and sheets. The process of determining air permeability is relatively simpler and faster.

The bursting strength can be predicted for used parachutes, which are otherwise subjected to destructive testing.

The men using the parachutes can be assured of the superior flawless performance of the parachute as equipment and also contribute to the saving of resources due to nondestructive testing, 100% evaluation of all parachutes is possible.

This article describes the nature of the test procedure and discusses the means of introducing it to users of parachutes. It is accepted that the method must undergo field evaluation and possible modification before it can become a routine tool of parachute using organizations.

The purpose of this paper is to design woven fabrics with desired quality and low manufacturing cost by optimizing the weave parameters such as count, crimp and thread spacing of warp and weft yarns.

To fulfill this goal, the authors endeavor to devise a searching mechanism based on particle swarm optimization (PSO) for efficiently finding the appropriate combination of weave parameters.

The experimental validation confirms that the proposed method has an excellent search capacity to obtain the best combinations of weave parameters for producing the fabrics with requisite quality at low cost.

The quick response capability of the system would benefit the fabric manufacturers for efficient determination of the required weaving parameters to produce the engineered fabrics.

This paper offers a maiden application of PSO technique to design engineered products in textiles. The method is easy to implement and it is computationally inexpensive as fewer parameters are involved.

This paper aims to study the combination of photochromic microcapsules, which use the ultraviolet (UV) rays for colour changing phenomena, and titanium oxide (TiO₂) nanoparticles (NPs), which block the UV rays by their photocatalytic activity in the sunlight on the cotton fabric.

The TiO₂ NPs mixed with photochromic printing paste are used for coating on cotton fabric and further curing is performed in a one-step process. The photochromic pigment printed fabric impregnated in a liquid solution is processed in a two-step process with two variables such as 1% TiO₂ and 2% TiO₂. The characterization of samples was done with a UV transmittance analyser, surface contact angle, antimicrobial test and fabric physical properties.

The UV protection of TiO₂-treated photochromic printed fabric was high and gives the ultraviolet protection factor rating of 2,000 which denotes almost maximum blocking of UV rays. The antibacterial activity of the one-step samples shows the highest 36 mm zone of inhibition (ZOI) against S. aureus (gram-positive) and 32 mm ZOI against E. coli (gram-negative) bacteria. The one-step sample shows the highest static water contact angle of 118.6° representing more hydrophobicity, whereas the untreated fabric is fully wetted (0.4°). In two-step processes, as the concentration of TiO₂ increased, the antibacterial activity, UV blocking and hydrophobicity became better.

This work achieves the multifunctional finishes by using photochromic microcapsules and NPs in a single process as a first attempt. The results inferred that one-step sample has achieved higher values in most of the tests conducted when compared to all other sample.

The purpose of this paper is to present the thermal comfort properties of single jersey knitted fabric structures made from bamboo, tencel and bamboo-tencel blended yarns.

Bamboo, tencel fibre and blends of the two fibres were spun into yarns of identical linear density (30s Ne). Each of the blended yarns so produced was converted to single jersey knitted fabrics with loose, medium and tight structures.

An increase in tencel fibre in the fabric had led to a reduction in fabric thickness and GSM. Air permeability and water-vapour permeability also increased with increase in tencel fibre content. The anticipated increase in air permeability and relative water vapour permeability with increase in stitch length was observed. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics was generally found to increase with increase in the proportion of bamboo.

It is clear from the foregoing that, although a considerable amount of work has been done on bamboo blends and their properties, still there are many gaps existing in the literature, in particular, on thermal comfort, moisture management and spreading characteristics. Thus the manuscript addresses these issues and provides valuable information on the comfort characteristics of the blended fabrics for the first time. In the evolution of this manuscript, it became apparent that a considerable amount of work was needed to fill up the gaps existing in the literature and hence this work which deals with an investigation of the blend yarn properties and comfort properties of knitted fabrics was taken up.

This research work is focused on the thermal comfort parameters of knitted fabrics made from 100 per cent tencel yarn, 100 per cent bamboo yarn and tencel/bamboo blended yarns of different blend ratios.

The purpose of this paper is to improve the design of a solid square canopy of a parachute. The design improvements are brought out by providing minor slits in the canopy area. Proper designing of the parachute was carried out using theoretical investigation coupled with experimentation. This parachute is designed for launch of sonobuoy from fixed wing aircraft.

Literature review was carried out on the design of such parachutes for the launch of a sonobuoy from a high altitude to the water entry. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) analysis provided the value of the coefficient of drag for the slit-cut square canopy parachute, with and without sonobuoy for different lengths of the slit. Besides the theoretical investigation, experimentation was also carried out to validate the design.

The experimentation was carried out on 58 and 75 gsm fabric canopies with the slit edge plain-cut with thermally sealed edges, stitched and strengthened. In the case of plain-cut slits on the canopy made of 75 gsm fabric, no tearing of the slit edge was observed in dynamic and flight tests.

The present work has been carried out considering various assumptions and limited trial data specific to precision drop of 9 kg payload. The work can be adopted for bigger parachute for dropping of higher payloads.

Lab strength test, track dynamic and flight trials were conducted to acquire useful data for the present analysis. Besides the theoretical investigations and CFD analysis inherently based on numerous assumptions, experimentation was carried out as the sonobuoy deployment conditions are full of uncertainty. Dynamic and airdrop tests were conducted for this reason to determine design changes in the slits, both at the material level and on improvisations.

Given the COVID-19 Pandemic outbreak and the role of medical textiles for protection, this study aims to identify the leading research foci on using textile materials for personal protection in pandemic situations.

A systematic review and systemic analysis of the literature on the subject were performed using the process knowledge development – constructivist (ProKnow-C) methodology.

A bibliographic portfolio with 16 relevant studies was obtained. This portfolio represents the main focus of this research field, including the main filtration mechanisms, ways of disinfecting N95 respirators and proposed methods to evaluate the filtration efficiency of different materials with potential for mask development.

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time the ProKnow-C methodology was used in the textile field. Thus, future studies can benefit from using the Proknow-C for selecting and analyzing relevant textile studies following a systematic approach.