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Article
Publication date: 17 December 2021

Farhana Naeem, Fareha Asim and Muhammad Tufail

Cellulosic fabric and plain weave are the most commonly used material in home textiles. The poor wrinkling, dimensional stability and pilling are some of the problems faced during…

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Abstract

Purpose

Cellulosic fabric and plain weave are the most commonly used material in home textiles. The poor wrinkling, dimensional stability and pilling are some of the problems faced during usage. The textile industries apply resin finish to improve these characteristics. The purpose of this study is to improve pilling resistance, dimensional stability and smoothness appearance (SA) of rayon and rayon/cotton plain fabrics using different concentrations of dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) and acrylic copolymer. The finish was fixed using two different fixation methods.

Design/methodology/approach

Three concentrations, 40, 100 and 150 g/l of Arkofix NF (DMDHE based) and Appretan N9211 (acrylic copolymer), were taken. The finish was applied at normal and shock cure. The effects of finish on pilling resistance, dimensional stability, smoothness, tear strength, light fastness, Berger whiteness and yellowness index of plain fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The changes in the characteristics of the finished fabrics were compared with unfinished fabrics. This study revealed that at 40 g/l of Arkofix NF and Appretan N9211 using a normal cure would improve the pilling resistance, dimensional stability and SA of the plain fabrics. Whereas, there was no adverse effect observed on tear strength, light fastness, Berger whiteness and yellowness index of plain fabrics at these conditions.

Originality/value

Unlike the previous studies, this paper proposed the single finish formulation where the functional characteristics of the plain rayon and rayon cotton fabrics meet the general requirement of a customer.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 February 2022

Kura Alemayehu Beyene

Modeling helps to determine how structural parameters of fabric affect the surface of a fabric and also identify the way they influence fabric properties. Moreover, it helps to…

Abstract

Purpose

Modeling helps to determine how structural parameters of fabric affect the surface of a fabric and also identify the way they influence fabric properties. Moreover, it helps to estimate and evaluate without the complexity and time-consuming experimental procedures. The purpose of this study is to develop and select the best regression model equations for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, a linear and quadratic regression model was developed for the prediction and evaluation of surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics, and the capability in accuracy and reliability of the two-model equation was determined by the root mean square error (RMSE). The Design-Expert AE11 software was used for developing the two model equations and analysis of variance “ANOVA.” The count and density were used for developing linear model equation one “SMD1” as well as for quadratic model equation two “SMD2.”

Findings

From results and findings, the effects of count and density and their interactions on the roughness of plain-woven fabric were found statistically significant for both linear and quadratic models at a confidence interval of 95%. The count has a positive correlation with surface roughness, while density has a negative correlation. The correlations revealed that models were strongly correlated at a confidence interval of 95% with adjusted R² of 0.8483 and R² of 0.9079, respectively. The RMSE values of the quadratic model equation and linear model equation were 0.1596 and 0.0747, respectively.

Originality/value

Thus, the quadratic model equation has better capability accuracy and reliability in predictions and evaluations of surface roughness than a linear model. These models can be used to select a suitable fabric for various end applications, and it was also used for tests and predicts surface roughness of plain-woven fabrics. The regression model helps to reduce the gap between the subjective and objective surface roughness measurement methods.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 July 2024

Sarah Yahia and Khaled Mohamed Seddik

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double cloth) and polyester yarn. The research focused on blending two types of polyester: Renova® and polyester microfiber with different weave structures in both face and back layers for fabricated fabrics. Force resistance was investigated through several properties, the mass per unit area and thickness properties were also considered.

Design/methodology/approach

The research was divided into two phases. The first phase included three samples with the same double cloth structure and different weft materials to detect the most preferable performance. The second phase included three samples with the same materials and different double cloth structures. Several mechanical properties were tested in accordance with standard test methods, and the results were collected, tabulated and statistically analyzed using a chart line, an ANOVA test with a p-value = 0.05, a calculated least significant difference (value) and a radar chart area.

Findings

The results assigned that blending Renova®/polyester microfiber develops mechanical properties than using them individually, considering the increase in polyester microfiber ratio. The double cloth with different plain structures has a significantly different effect on the examined properties, except for elongation and thickness.

Originality/value

According to the radar chart area, the double cloth with a plain rib structure achieved better performance, and in the same vein, the results showed that the plain with a warp rib structure enhanced fabric behavior more than the weft rib.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 23 November 2020

Farhana Naeem, Fareha Asim and Muhammad Tufail

Low pilling and wrinkle-free appearance of cellulosic fabrics are always demanded. Resin finishes are applied to improve these properties, but there is an adverse effect of the…

Abstract

Purpose

Low pilling and wrinkle-free appearance of cellulosic fabrics are always demanded. Resin finishes are applied to improve these properties, but there is an adverse effect of the resin finish as it tends to reduce the strength of the fabrics. Therefore, the effect of the two most important finishes; anti-pilling and resin finish, on the strength characteristics of 100% viscose and 50:50 Viscose/cotton plain and satin fabrics were investigated in this paper. The purpose of this study is to identify significant factors affecting the strength of fabrics finished with crosslinking agents [non-ionic acrylate copolymer and (dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea)].

Design/methodology/approach

A statistical model of 23 32 mixed level factorial design was used for the study. Appratan N9211 (A) and Arkofix NF (B) were tested at three concentrations, whereas three factors fabric; weave (C), blend ratio (D) and curing method (E) were tested at two levels. The performance of the finish was evaluated by two response variables, which were tensile and tear strength.

Findings

The various conditions of high strength values of the fabrics were presented in this paper. It was found that the tear strength of the fabrics increased after finishing except for 50:50 viscose/cotton plain fabric, whereas the tensile strength of plain fabrics is better at shock cure and for a satin normal cure is better. The model adequacy plots exhibit that the assumptions of normality and independence are not desecrated. Moreover, the values of “predicted R2” are in reasonable agreement with the “adjusted R2,” which confirms that models have been accounted for most of the inconsistency.

Originality/value

This paper is a part of my PhD dissertation. Unlike the previous studies, this paper investigated the effect of two crosslinking agents, Appretan N9211 as anti-pilling and Arkofix NF as wrinkle resistant agents on 100% viscose and 50:50 viscose/cotton plain and satin. Three different concentrations of both the crosslinking agents were used. Also, fixation of the finishes was carried out at a normal cure and shock cure.

Article
Publication date: 19 August 2021

Kura Alemayehu Beyene and Soliyana Gebeyaw

Friction is considered to be one property of cloth that has considerable importance in the fields of both technological and subjective assessment for surface properties of textile…

Abstract

Purpose

Friction is considered to be one property of cloth that has considerable importance in the fields of both technological and subjective assessment for surface properties of textile fabrics. The purpose of this study is to investigate the affective aspects of yarn and fabric structural parameters on the behavior of surface friction of plain woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, nine varieties of half-bleached cotton plain-woven fabrics with three weft yarn count (tex) and three weft thread density (ppc) are produced and will be examined for their frictional characteristics. The surface frictional properties of plain-woven fabrics were measured by using Kawabata (KES-Fb4) testing instrument. The ANOVA analysis is used to determine how yarn (count) and fabric (density) structural parameters does influence the surface friction properties of the fabrics. Also, the interaction effects between the factors (count and density) on the response variable (surface friction) of plain-woven fabrics.

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the effects of weft yarn count and pick-density have statistically significant on the frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties at a 95% confidence interval. Thus, weft yarn count has a positive correlation with both coefficient of friction (MIU) and mean deviation of coefficient of friction (MMD) on frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties. On the other hand, pick density has a negative correlation with both MIU and MMD on frictional behavior of the fabric surface properties. The weft count, pick density and their interactions (Count X Density) have multicollinearity in the experiment term because the variance inflation factor values were greater than one.

Originality/value

The findings of this study can be routinely used across the textile industries and laboratories to provide a fundamental understanding regarding the surface frictional properties of the woven fabric for different end applications concerning the yarn structural parameters and fabric structural parameters. And the relationship of count and density with surface friction of plain woven fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2003

L. Higgins, S.C. Anand, M.E. Hall and D.A. Holmes

The length and width shrinkages, skewness, spirality and moisture content of three weft knitted cotton structures, plain single jersey, interlock and lacoste, were determined at…

Abstract

The length and width shrinkages, skewness, spirality and moisture content of three weft knitted cotton structures, plain single jersey, interlock and lacoste, were determined at regular intervals during tumble drying. Significant length and width shrinkages occurred in all three structures with the amount of shrinkage increasing rapidly in plain single jersey and lacoste as their moisture contents fell below 30 per cent. Distortion was less affected by tumble drying. An attempt was made to isolate the effects of heat and agitation during tumble drying. It has been demonstrated that similar patterns of shrinkage and distortion occur whether heat is applied during tumble drying or not. The tumbling action in a tumble drier has the greatest influence on the dimensional stability and distortion of weft knitted cotton fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 February 2022

Muhammad Umair, Muhammad Usman Javaid, Yasir Nawab, Madeha Jabbar, Shagufta Riaz, Hafiz Affan Abid and Khubab Shaker

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.

Findings

The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.

Research limitations/implications

Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.

Originality/value

The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 July 2012

Diana Grineviciute, Sigitas Krauledas and Matas V. Gutauskas

The purpose of this research is to perform instrumental comparison of hand parameters of knitted fabrics produced from different biodegradable fibres and to analyze peculiarities…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research is to perform instrumental comparison of hand parameters of knitted fabrics produced from different biodegradable fibres and to analyze peculiarities of hand parameters' extent influenced by fabric structure and chemical softening.

Design/methodology/approach

The hand of five types of different biodegradable fabrics was evaluated. Experiments were performed using a method based on the principle of specimen biaxial punching deformation when a disc‐shaped specimen is extracted through a round nozzle. The Influence of fabric weave (terry and plain jersey) and finishing (padding with the silicone softener “Belfasin SI”) on the fabric hand was investigated.

Findings

Investigations have shown that weave type and finishing significantly influenced fabric hand properties. It was also stated that even tenuous differences between fabric parameters could be obtained by one numeral value of complex hand rate Q.

Practical implications

Experiments have shown that KTU–Griff–Tester is a simple, reliable instrumental device suitable to obtain quantitative information about fabric mechanical properties. Evaluation of finishing influence on a fabric hand could be precisely expressed by one parameter Q.

Originality/value

In the present research quantitative evaluation of new fabrics from biodegradable fibres hand was performed. Comparison between new biodegradable and traditional cotton fabrics has shown that new biodegradable fibres which are generally used for underwear, sportswear and for medical application are characterized by soft hand, as a result a good affinity with skin.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2019

Hayriye Gidik, Oly Vololonirina, Rita Maria Ghantous and Andreas Ankou

Unlike other materials, textiles associate with aesthetic and mechanical properties such as flexibility and removability that allow them to be deployed or folded as required and…

Abstract

Purpose

Unlike other materials, textiles associate with aesthetic and mechanical properties such as flexibility and removability that allow them to be deployed or folded as required and which make them good candidates for clothing and furnishing but also, eventually, for other applications such as building. Actually, the clothing should ensure appropriate heat and mass transfers between the human body and its environment in order to maintain the thermo-physiological comfort. For that, it is important to determine water vapor permeability (WVP) of textile. Several normalized procedures with variants depending on the nature of the tested material exist to measure the WVP. One of the methods used is the “dish method” described by the British Standard (BS 7209). The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the test parameters on the WVP measurements.

Design/methodology/approach

Consequently, WVP of different textiles was measured while varying several parameters like: nature of fabrics, air layer thickness, vapor pressure gradient and air velocity.

Findings

A decrease in the WVP values was observed with an increase in the air layer thickness and the number of textile layers. On the other side, an increase in the water pressure gradient induces an increase in the WVP value. Finally, it was also observed that air velocity has an impact on the WVP measurements.

Originality/value

In addition to intrinsic properties of fabrics, i.e., nature of fiber, woven structure, the influence of the several extrinsic properties, i.e., the influence of the air layer thickness, the number of textile layers, the vapor pressure gradient and the air velocity, on the WVP were investigated. Some researchers have already investigated the impact of these parameters on the WVP measurement separately. However, this study presents a difference from other studies that it takes into account the influence of the both intrinsic and extrinsic properties on WVP. In addition to these, this work combine several extrinsic properties which are presented separately during other studies. The first time, in this study the influence of the air velocity on WVP was investigated. Results on both hydrophilic and hydrophobic fabrics showed a great variation in the results when varying the location of the cups inside the climatic chamber. This is the reason why future studies look at studying more deeply the effect of air velocity on the WVP properties on different types of fabrics by connecting WVP values with air velocity values. It is also planned to make tests with the rotation device and by fixing the value of the temperature and RH. The objective will be to obtain reliable values that do not take into account the effect of air velocity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Iwona Frydrych and Małgorzata Matusiak

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density, weave and a way of finishing. It shows how the mentioned properties influence fabric formability and analyze a statistical significance of investigated relationships.

Design/methodology/approach

In paper two groups of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics of different structure and a way of finishing have been measured in the range of their basic structural properties as well as bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Formability of investigated fabrics has been calculated on the basis of bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Next, ANOVA has been performed in order to analyze the relationships between the weft density, weave and a way of finishing of woven fabrics and their formability.

Findings

The paper shows that all selected properties of woven fabrics significantly influence their formability as well as that there is statistically significant interaction between mentioned independent factors. It provides empirical results confirming that the influence of raw material composition of investigated cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics on the formability of fabrics is statistically insignificant.

Research limitations/implications

Results of investigations can be applied for cotton and cotton-like woven fabrics.

Practical implications

The paper includes implications for woven fabric engineering from the point of view of achieving the expected fabric formability.

Social implications

The results enables the choice of appropriate fabric for the given clothing.

Originality/value

This paper fulfills an identified need to study how the formability of woven fabrics can be shaped by an appropriate selection of their structure and a way of finishing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 1000