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The purpose of this research is to perform instrumental comparison of hand parameters of knitted fabrics produced from different biodegradable fibres and to analyze peculiarities of hand parameters' extent influenced by fabric structure and chemical softening.

The hand of five types of different biodegradable fabrics was evaluated. Experiments were performed using a method based on the principle of specimen biaxial punching deformation when a disc‐shaped specimen is extracted through a round nozzle. The Influence of fabric weave (terry and plain jersey) and finishing (padding with the silicone softener “Belfasin SI”) on the fabric hand was investigated.

Investigations have shown that weave type and finishing significantly influenced fabric hand properties. It was also stated that even tenuous differences between fabric parameters could be obtained by one numeral value of complex hand rate Q.

Experiments have shown that KTU–Griff–Tester is a simple, reliable instrumental device suitable to obtain quantitative information about fabric mechanical properties. Evaluation of finishing influence on a fabric hand could be precisely expressed by one parameter Q.

In the present research quantitative evaluation of new fabrics from biodegradable fibres hand was performed. Comparison between new biodegradable and traditional cotton fabrics has shown that new biodegradable fibres which are generally used for underwear, sportswear and for medical application are characterized by soft hand, as a result a good affinity with skin.

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.

Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.

The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.

Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

Explains the origins of the development of the handle method, and lists the three criteria for predicting fabric quality. Shows how fabric handle evaluation is used, for example, handle analysis expresses characteristics and quality. Goes on to explain hand value and total hand value with the aid of equations and charts. Concludes that the textile technology must apply today’s technologies to the production of higher grade fabrics – i.e. ideal fabrics.

The study aimed to clarify differences in fabric hand perceptions among Japanese and Chinese participants and implement online shopping strategies that enable consumers to easily recognize fabric texture.

Forty (20 Japanese and 20 Chinese) participants knowledgeable about clothing and fabric were recruited. Participants evaluated fabric by sight and touch in a visuotactile experiment (VTE). The stimulus material comprised 39 fabric samples representing a broad range of fabric attributes (7 fibers, 5 weaving/knitting techniques and 3 yarn thicknesses and density). A Mann–Whitney U test and a factor analysis were conducted to determine differences in responses for the different fabric variables.

The fabric hand perceptions factors were similar between both groups. Japanese participants showed a stronger preference for fabrics that felt wet. Japanese participants’ fabric hand perceptions had a 3-factor structure, while Chinese participants had a 2-factor structure. Chinese participants regarded “crisp” as perceptually and linguistically equivalent to “stretchy.”

The study’s findings suggest that Chinese people have stronger preferences in fabrics than Japanese people do. Japanese people evaluate fabric hand in a more nuanced manner than Chinese individuals, including discerning different fabric attributes, such as fiber and yarn thickness and density. Thus, nationality may influence fabric hand perceptions more than fabric knowledge does. Specifically, in evaluating “crispness,” the results required further analysis because differences in nationality may have affected evaluations regarding perception and linguistic perspectives. The findings provide design guidelines for implementing online shopping strategies adapted to each participant group.

Textiles as clothing material must fit the human body and senses. This fitting is an important performance of the textiles besides the utility performance of textiles such as fabric strength. For many years, the performance concerning this fitness has been evaluated subjectively by hand judgement. The fabric property judged in such a way is called fabric handle. Instead of the subjective method, the objective evaluation system of fabric handle has been developed. The system is introduced firstly. In this objective method, the handle is evaluated based on the fabric mechanical and surface properties measured by the KESF instrument. The mechanical parameters of fabric measured by the instrument are useful not only for the fabric handle evaluation but also for textile and apparel engineering through the direct use of the parameters. The applications of the objective measurement of fabric handle and properties to textile and apparel engineering are introduced.

The purpose of this study is to identify the print effects produced on selected fabrics due to the adaptation of styrofoam, plastic net and wood as stamp blocks for printing.

The art-based experimental research approach was used to produce and identify the art (prints) produced by stamp blocks on different fabrics using water-soluble print paste.

They stamp block surfaces used in the block printing process produced interesting effects or prints that are uniquely associated with each other. Fabrics such as silver and satin produced shinny print effects coupled with a tough hand or feel as compared to a paperish hand produced on the surfaces of cotton-polyester blend and linen fabrics. The addition of white glue to the paste produced a smooth and embossed-like print effect on fabrics like mercerised cotton and linen. Further results were captured to indicate the hand of these fabrics after printing due to the change in viscosity of the print paste.

The use of calabash and wood surfaces as stamp blocks used in Ghana and the rest of the world is common for printing patterns on fabrics. This study essentially reveals the possibility of using different surfaces for stamp blocks which produce aesthetically pleasing print effects. This when adopted by craftsmen and students would widen the teaching and creative scope in block printing and further produce viable prints for the market using available materials in the environment. These activities would promote and maintain the philosophy of block printing even in the era of advance printing technologies.

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.

First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.

For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.

In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.

Fabric testing has progressed from subjective hand evaluation to very sophisticated instrumental techniques. Examines past developments and suggests some future directions in this area. Reports research work being pursued by the present authors in developing automated test systems.

This paper traces the evolution of objective measurement of textile hand and comfort from Pierce through modern methodology and approaches. Special emphasis is given to discuss the contribution of the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) towards advancing the state of objective measurement. Laboratory case studies are used to show how data generated by the KES and other instruments can be integrated into a comprehensive approach that attempts to explain human comfort response to garment wear in terms of fabric mechanical, surface and heat and moisture transfer properties.