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The paper aims to discuss error detection and correction in Kashmiri carpet weaving (KCW), mediated by cryptographic code, Talim which is held to guarantee accurate information transference from designing to weaving, even after hundred years. Yet, carpets often show errors on completion.

Human factors analysis revealed error emergence, detection and correction in this practice whose task domains are distributed over large geographies (from in-premises to several kilometers) and timescales (from days to decades). Using prospective observation method, production process of two research carpets from their design, coding and weaving was observed while noting the errors made, identified and corrected by actors in each phase.

The errors were found to emerge, identified and corrected during different phases of designing, coding and weaving while giving rise to fresh errors in each phase, due to actors’ normal work routines.

In view of this, usual branding of “weaver-error” behind flawed carpet turns out to be misplaced value judgment passed in hindsight.

The purpose of this paper, on innovative design of traditional weft-backed woven fabric, is to investigate a design principle and method for full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect to realize two types of double-faced shading effects for traditional weft-backed fabric that are impossible to be realized under plane design mode. In addition, the study on the color rendering law is conducive to the design application, and the effectiveness of the design method has been verified by the design practices.

This paper presents a design method for full-backed structure with two shaded weave databases (SWDs) by selecting two primary weaves (PWs), establishing the corresponding SWDs, selecting the proper compound structures for database of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. Color card fabric with 544 specimens is produced and their color values are measured, their color difference and variance are analyzed to evaluate the color rendering characteristics. Finally, double-faced weft-backed fabrics are produced under layered-combination design mode to verify the practicality of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect.

Weft-backed woven fabrics with “SPDC” (same pattern and different color) and “DPDC” (different pattern and different color) shading effects can be produced using full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. The color expression is extremely enhanced (136 compound structures on one side for one color weft). In the shading process, two sets of wefts do not affect each other, and stable and ideal color shading effect with high color purity can be expressed according to the analyses on the L* (lightness) values, color purity, color differences (0.47–3.20) and variance (0.25–1.21) of the color card fabric.

Breaking through the structural limitations and achieving the double-faced shading effects that cannot be expressed in plane design mode. The research on two weft-backed fabric with the most basic weft-backed structure provides not only a theoretical base for further study on weft-backed structures, but also some references for structure innovation design of traditional weft-backed woven fabrics.

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service pipeline process in the field of heritage attire preservation of Bodo Dokhona was focused that would endorse the local weavers' community for its wellbeing and sustainability.

The design approaches have been framed after interactions with the local weavers through a survey conducted for understanding the issues pertaining to weavers. Towards sustaining the Bodo heritage attire Dokhona, a service design pipeline for better management system was developed in three phases. Interactions with the local weavers through survey and validation for its feasibility were undertaken.

This research paper focuses on publishing innovative survey research and practice related to cultural heritage management of the Bodo traditional wear Dokhona and sustainability conservation of the pipeline process. Therefore, developing both skill and knowledge for the weavers' community of the region.

The design pipeline approach in this paper has been shared with the local weavers' for easy understanding of the step-by-step process of weaving a Dokhona made of eri silk. A progressive Bodo weaver will gain skill training which would lead to weavers' empowerment.

Developing and documenting an innovative service design approach. In this context, an insight for women empowerment leading to preservation of Bodo heritage is valued.

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.

The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.

Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.

The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

This paper describes a new approach for the design of multilayer reinforcements of textile composite materials and products. We offer an alternative to multilayer complex fabrics for which the laminates of the composite reinforcement material consist of orthogonal woven fabrics with an original variable structure when each fabric layer is composed of alternating one‐ply (one warp and one weft) and one and‐ a‐half‐ply (one warp and two wefts) sections. Combination of these sections produces a “gearing” effect, preventing the delamination of textile composites in the process of their exploitation. An important aspect of the proposed method is a possibility to design woven fabrics in concurrence with the dimensions of the composite product and conditions of its exploitation; this leads to a substantial improvement of many properties of such composite product.

Flexible light-emitting textile display is designed with floats for electronic elements covering and electronic contacts insulation what at the same time provides an opportunity to develop aesthetic design of the display in the single piece construction of material. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Display consists of interwoven electrically conductive yarns, non-conductive yarns and SMD LEDs connected to conductive yarns. Industrial jacquard weaving machine have been used, weave patterns were designed in PC-Edit software.

Weave can be used as a tool to build and evolve electrotextile. Exploring weaving techniques and perceiving electronic circuit as a weave pattern, new approaches can be developed in electrotextile design field.

Connections of electronic elements and conductive textile materials still is actual problem what should be explored in further research.

Flexible light emitting textile display can be used as output interface integrated into communication clothing by representing different animated images directly on clothing. Display also can be used for accessories, room and auto interior etc. applications.

Paper describes method of light source integration directly into textile structure, combining functional and visual design of textile display.

Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and automatically change a pattern without stopping the weaving process. Jacquard CAD systems dramatically reduce the time to produce fabric from the artwork or target design The process of weave/color selection for each area of the pattern is, however, still highly dependent on the CAD system operator who works from a particular color gamut. Multiple weaving trials are required to get a sample that matches the original artwork since the process requires the designer‘s subjective evaluation. The lack of automatic selection of weaves/color matching prompts this research.

This paper addresses the development of a geometric model for predicting the color contribution of each warp and filling yarn on the fabric surface in terms of construction parameters. The combination of geometric modeling and existing color mixing equations enables the prediction of the final color of different areas of a Jacquard pattern. The model was verified experimentally and a close agreement was found between a color mixing equation and the experimental measurements.

Sambalpuri Bastralaya Handloom Co‐operative Society Limited (SBHCSL), or “Bastralaya”, is a rural community‐based cooperative enterprise in the Western province of state Odisha in India. Weaver‐members are self‐employed in a home‐based weaving system and use their tacit traditional knowledge and expertise. Undertaking a case study of this enterprise, the purpose of this paper is to explain traditional knowledge management process of the community.

A total of 40 respondents from among enterprise employees, members of weaving and sales branches, members of government/ non‐government agencies were interviewed/ observed. A qualitative research method called “narrative enquiry” was used to restory and interpret respondents' data and stories gathered from the field study. Analysis of documents was also a method used.

For management of knowledge processes, Bastralaya focuses on creating members' skills and knowledge, i.e. creation of contextual skills and knowledge, in addition to existing generic tacit knowledge; building members' competence and capturing new knowledge; crystallizing new knowledge for customer‐focused design and organizational learning; and finally, knowledge preservation and internalization. Community weavers inherit traditional weaving knowledge across generations and learn informally through interaction, observation, socialization, co‐operation and apprenticeships in the natural settings of the co‐operative enterprise system.

In the light of knowledge management models, this paper explains the process of knowledge preservation and dissemination in rural weaving community enterprises and can also be used to understand rural micro enterprises.

Presents general properties and examples of weaves for two‐component multilayered woven fabrics. Such fabrics have a combination of properties which it is difficult to achieve in traditional fabrics (bulk combined with good tenacity, high cover level with porosity), can be used in liningless garments and can cope with ergonomical restrictions when using fibres with special protective properties. Describes a CAD system which can be used as an aid for a technologist to choose yarns for warp and weft, fabric weave and picks/ends count to meet demands specified by a particular fabric usage. It employs a new method of coding of multilayered fabric structure; mathematical methods used are based on the mechanical model of yarns interaction in a fabric. This describes the spatial disposition of yarns which allows production of any desired images of fabric geometry, i.e. surface smoothness or shape of pores. Discusses the complex nature of porosity of multilayered fabrics.

Examines the fifteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.