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Article
Publication date: 22 March 2023

Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya and Marzhan Kalmakhanova

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.

Findings

It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.

Originality/value

It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 April 2024

Rafiu King Raji, Yini Wei, Guiqiang Diao and Zilun Tang

Devices for step estimation are body-worn devices used to compute steps taken and/or distance covered by the user. Even though textiles or clothing are foremost to come to mind in…

Abstract

Purpose

Devices for step estimation are body-worn devices used to compute steps taken and/or distance covered by the user. Even though textiles or clothing are foremost to come to mind in terms of articles meant to be worn, their prominence among devices and systems meant for cadence is overshadowed by electronic products such as accelerometers, wristbands and smart phones. Athletes and sports enthusiasts using knee sleeves should be able to track their performances and monitor workout progress without the need to carry other devices with no direct sport utility, such as wristbands and wearable accelerometers. The purpose of this study thus is to contribute to the broad area of wearable devices for cadence application by developing a cheap but effective and efficient stride measurement system based on a knee sleeve.

Design/methodology/approach

A textile strain sensor is designed by weft knitting silver-plated nylon yarn together with nylon DTY and covered elastic yarn using a 1 × 1 rib structure. The area occupied by the silver-plated yarn within the structure served as the strain sensor. It worked such that, upon being subjected to stress, the electrical resistance of the sensor increases and in turn, is restored when the stress is removed. The strip with the sensor is knitted separately and subsequently sewn to the knee sleeve. The knee sleeve is then connected to a custom-made signal acquisition and processing system. A volunteer was employed for a wearer trial.

Findings

Experimental results establish that the number of strides taken by the wearer can easily be correlated to the knee flexion and extension cycles of the wearer. The number of peaks computed by the signal acquisition and processing system is therefore counted to represent stride per minute. Therefore, the sensor is able to effectively count the number of strides taken by the user per minute. The coefficient of variation of over-ground test results yielded 0.03%, and stair climbing also obtained 0.14%, an indication of very high sensor repeatability.

Research limitations/implications

The study was conducted using limited number of volunteers for the wearer trials.

Practical implications

By embedding textile piezoresistive sensors in some specific garments and or accessories, physical activity such as gait and its related data can be effectively measured.

Originality/value

To the best of our knowledge, this is the first application of piezoresistive sensing in the knee sleeve for stride estimation. Also, this study establishes that it is possible to attach (sew) already-knit textile strain sensors to apparel to effectuate smart functionality.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 October 2023

Gabriela Maestri, Claudia Merlini, Leonardo Mejia and Fernanda Steffens

This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE) area.

Design/methodology/approach

Two different weft knitted rapports were produced with polyester (PES). The device developed has five layers: a central of poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) nonwoven, involved by two insulating layers of PES knitted fabric; and two conductive external layers, made of polypyrrole-coated PES knitted fabric. The piezoelectric textile devices were joined by sewing the five layers of the device.

Findings

The FTIR technique confirmed the β-phase in the PVDF nonwoven. This study produced and tested two different textiles devices with piezoelectric behavior, confirmed by the correlated pattern of voltage and tensile stress difference curves, showing the potential application in RE’s and sustainable energies field as smart textiles, such as devices incorporated in garments in the areas of high movement (elbow, knee, foot, fingers and hands, among others), and as an energy generator device

Originality/value

Textile materials with piezoelectric properties promise to advance RE’s developments due to their high material flexibility and sensitivity to the electrical response. The knitted fabric technology presents flexibility due to its construction process. Comparative studies analyzing the electrical response between knitted and woven fabrics have already been realized. However, there is a gap in terms of research scientific research regarding the comparison of the piezoelectric effect in a material that presents different knitted fabric rapports.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 10 May 2022

Sara Harper and Rudrajeet Pal

Technology and market pressures are encouraging localized and small-series production in customer-driven industries. The purpose of this paper is to explore and understand the…

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Abstract

Purpose

Technology and market pressures are encouraging localized and small-series production in customer-driven industries. The purpose of this paper is to explore and understand the supply chain-, product- and process-design factors for small-series production in EU’s textile and apparel industry, to understand configuration decisions, priorities and challenges.

Design/methodology/approach

An interview study was undertaken with ten companies that represent diverse small-series production models and value chain roles. Interview data was analysed to identify supply network configuration characteristics, decision priorities and challenges.

Findings

Three small-series production models emerged from the analysis, differing with respect to adoption of process postponement and customization. The findings confirm and extend past research regarding diverse decision priorities and product, process, supply chain structure/relationship configurations. Challenges identified relate to planning (priorities) and implementation (configuration). Whereas competence availability and digital technology challenges are common, several difficulties are linked to production model like tensions related to priorities and small volumes, which are not found with customization.

Research limitations/implications

Future research can make comparisons with other industry and location contexts; adopt dynamic approaches to distinguish between design and reconfiguration processes; and address indicated paradoxical-tensions.

Practical implications

The study findings can provide guidance for companies regarding identification of priorities and management of (planning/implementation) challenges impacting small-series production in T&A.

Originality/value

The paper brings a configuration perspective at the supply chain level to the problem of small-series production implementation, which demands holistic and context-specific understanding.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 February 2023

Mykola Riabchykov, Liudmyla Nazarchuk, Oksana Tkachuk and Victoria Stytsyuk

This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to prove the expediency and effectiveness of magnetic textiles use obtained by adding nanopowder synthesized on the basis of oxides of divalent and trivalent iron oxides, taking into account bacteriostatic, magnetotherapeutic and compressive properties.

Design/methodology/approach

The research includes methods of synthesis of nanoelements of bivalent and trivalent iron, methods of the theory of elasticity for determining the pressure between compression clothing and a limb, methods of creating an annular magnetic field with determination of its voltage, methods of determining the growth dynamics of mold bacteria and methods of approximation of experimental data.

Findings

On the base of the determination of the forces arising from the interaction of magnetic nanotextiles with a magnetic field, the expediency of using these materials in the creation of compression clothing has been proven. An additional medical value of magnetic textiles is the bacteriostatic effect. The content of magnetic nanoelements in the textile composition of 0.2% almost completely suppresses mold infections

Research limitations/implications

Cotton samples with the addition of nanocomponents based on ferric and ferric oxides were studied.

Practical implications

Magnetotextile materials can be used in magnetotherapy, compression clothing, in textile products that provide bacteriostatic properties.

Originality/value

The use of magnetic textile materials is a perspective direction for the creation of medical textile products with complex properties.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 February 2023

Ali A. Ali, H. Abd El-Wahab, Moustafa S. Abusaif, Ahmed Ragab, Omar A. Abdel-Jaid, E.A. Eldeeb and Yousry A. Ammar

The paper aims to the preparation of novel disperse dye based on azo salicylaldehyde derivatives TF-A [2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde] and full…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to the preparation of novel disperse dye based on azo salicylaldehyde derivatives TF-A [2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde] and full evaluation of their use as disperse dye TF-ASC [bis 2-hydroxy-5-((3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl)diazenyl)benzaldehyde Schiff base with 4,4'-methylenedianiline] for dyeing polyester fabric at various conditions.

Design/methodology/approach

The dispersed dye was synthesized via Schiff base condensation in the presence of ceric ammonium nitrate cerium ammonium nitrate 10 mmole% as an eco-friendly catalyst at room temperature. The chemical structure of the prepared dye was characterized via elemental analysis, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, 1H- and 13 C-NMR spectroscopic analysis tools. This study thoroughly examined the dyeing of disperse dye TF-ASC on polyester at various conditions. The characteristics of dyed polyester fabric were measured by colour measurements, as well as light, washing, crock fastness and finally, colour strength. The discrete fourier transform (DFT) theoretical studies, including EHOMO, ELUMO and optimized geometrical structure, were assumed and discussed in detail.

Findings

The results showed that the synthesized organic dye TF-ASC was highly functional and appropriate for this kind of dyeing method. The dyeing fabrics obtained from disperse dye TF-ASC, properties possess high colour strength as well as good overall fastness properties. These dyes had a high affinity for polyester fabric, with just a tiny change in dye affinity when the pH was changed, even under alkaline circumstances. The dye levelness and shade depth of the colour results were good, and there were a variety of hues from light brownish yellow to deep brownish yellow. The results obtained from DFT computational studies such as EHOMO, ELUMO, optimized structure, diploe moment µ and electrophilicity index deduced that prepared organic dye TF-ASC is more applicable as a dispersed dye.

Originality/value

This research is significant because it provides a new dye for dyeing polyethylene terephthalate fibres with exceptional brightness and levelness; the method of preparation is a useful pathway due to its being known as a green chemistry method.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 June 2023

Heba Tolla El Sayed Abo El Naga and Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz

Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot…

Abstract

Purpose

Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot satisfy all the requirements and cannot provide the required high performance. This study aims to use eco-friendly materials with a common structure to analyse their suitability for high-performance garment application.

Design/methodology/approach

This study used two eco-friendly yarns (bamboo, modal and bamboo: modal 50:50) and yarns per needle (two- and four-ply yarns). with a single jersey knit construction and gauge of 7. The physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) protection characteristics were evaluated using 15 tests.

Findings

The produced knitted fabrics showed high performance for use as garments with physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and UPF protection characteristics that were achieved, tested and analysed. The highest-achieved samples with a good UPF (<15) were made from bamboo material, which has other high-performance characteristics such as antibacterial characteristics, a soft surface, thermal insulation and others.

Research limitations/implications

The single jersey structure was used for producing fabrics as it is the common structure in the garment. Also, only gauge 7 was used for its economics and ease of production.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 March 2023

Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., Sentilkumar C.B., Selvaraj Senthil Kumar, Senthil Kumar B. and Devaki E.

Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides…

Abstract

Purpose

Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths.

Findings

The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties.

Research limitations/implications

In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 July 2023

Amal Mohamed El-Moursy, Zeinab Mohmed Abdel Mageid, Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz, Nour Asser and Osama Hakeim

Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic…

Abstract

Purpose

Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic blends containing hollow fibres, bamboo and cotton/polyester waste on the mechanical properties of the produced fabrics and the appropriate end use.

Design/methodology/approach

This research included two blends: one consisted of cotton/polyester wastes blended with bamboo and the other to which Chorisia fibres were added. Two weft counts 10,6/1 Ne were made from each blend, which were used to produce four fabric samples (S1 Chorisia-free and S2 with Chorisia); additionally, another two samples were dyed that contain Chorisia (S3) from each count. The six samples were tested by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES).

Findings

The samples gave a good total hand value (THV) for use as men's winter suits, where the thicker count 6/1, with and without Chorisia had better properties, also both counts 6, 10/1 with dye. The hollow fibres affected the fabrics’ properties, including thickness, shear, bending, thermal conductivity and weight. Both blends had a positive effect on THV.

Research limitations/implications

Cotton/polyester waste, Chorisia and bamboo fibres were tested, and 2% Remazol Yellow GNL dye was used.

Practical implications

The ratio of blending, weft counts and dye affected the fabric’s properties, with consequences for the use of the Kawabata system and its applications.

Social implications

The fabrics used in this research may be considered to be economical and have good THV.

Originality/value

The study proved the usefulness of fabrics made of two blends. The Chorisia component may be seen as a good alternative to cotton fibres to reduce the cost of producing high-consumption winter suit fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 2023

Khaled Mohamed Seddik and Marwa Atif Ali

Nowadays, textiles play a striking role in various medical applications. Compression bandages are the most essential medical fabrics that help treat venous flow and edema. This…

Abstract

Purpose

Nowadays, textiles play a striking role in various medical applications. Compression bandages are the most essential medical fabrics that help treat venous flow and edema. This study aims to investigate the characteristics of different woven compressive bandage structures produced using compact cotton and cotton/lycra.

Design/methodology/approach

Four samples were weaved by matt-plain2/2, twill2/2, stripe-stain4 and mock-leno structures. Several properties were tested that related to structural performance. Tensile strength, elastic and sub-bandage pressure are considered the main functional properties. Three different analysis tools were performed: chart-diagram, one-factor ANOVA and radar chart area.

Findings

The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.

Originality/value

The woven structures critically affected the performance of woven compression bandage samples as well as their classifications.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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