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Article
Publication date: 1 March 1997

Janice Huck, Oprah Maganga and Younghee Kim

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective…

Abstract

Protective clothing should ideally provide maximum comfort and protection for the wearer. The design and fit of a garment are factors which can affect both the protective aspects of a garment as well as its comfort. Proper garment fit depends on the relationship of the size of the garment compared with the size of the wearer. Garment ease (where the garment is larger than the wearer) should allow for comfort and mobility; both too much or too little ease can result in a garment that is uncomfortable and restrictive to movement. The purpose of this study was to explore a research technique to isolate the effects of garment ease in one area of a garment while ease in all other garment areas was controlled, and to determine a design that would maximize wearer mobility. Using five male subjects, protective overalls with differing amounts and garment location of crotch ease were evaluated for their effects on mobility and wearer acceptance. Range of motion measurements for selected joints were evaluated using a Leighton Flexometer. Subjects completed a subjective evaluation scale after performing an exercise protocol while wearing the overalls. Results indicated that a specific amount of ease in the crotch length of overalls may be appropriate. Additionally, an overall design that had all needed crotch ease in the back waist area of the garment may be desirable over the more conventional method of adding ease evenly between the front and back sections of the garment. The methodology used in this study provides a means of evaluating not only the potential for design variations in protective clothing, but provides a means to evaluate the dynamic aspects of fit of clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 March 2000

Tae J. Kang and Sung Min Kim

A fast response three dimensional garment drape shape prediction system has been developed. A human body model generator has been established for the garment draping on…

Abstract

A fast response three dimensional garment drape shape prediction system has been developed. A human body model generator has been established for the garment draping on it. For the mass production of different size of garments for the various sized body models, the cross‐sectional value from the anthropometric data was used as the standard for the size accommodation to make a resizable human body model. To construct the cloth drape shape prediction system, the finite element analysis method has been utilized. The designed garment pieces were divided into fine quadrilateral elements using a specially coded mesh generating program, then some appropriate sewing conditions were assigned to transform two dimensional patterns into three dimensional shapes. The final drape shape of the garment was determined from the solutions of the contact condition with human body, deformations, and the weights of the elements constituting the garment pieces, as well as the surface texture of the cloth.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 30 January 2007

Sungmin Kim and Chang Kyu Park

The generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most important steps in the garment‐manufacturing process. This paper seeks to present a new…

Abstract

Purpose

The generation of individually fit basic garment pattern is one of the most important steps in the garment‐manufacturing process. This paper seeks to present a new methodology to generate basic patterns of various sizes and styles using three‐dimensional geometric modeling method.

Design/methodology/approach

The geometry of a garment is divided into fit zone and fashion zone. The geometry of fit zone is prepared from 3D body scan data and can be resized parametrically. The fashion zone is modeled using various parameters characterizing the aesthetic appearance of garments. Finally, the 3D garment model is projected into corresponding flat panels considering the physical properties of the base material as well as the producibility of the garment.

Findings

The main findings were geometric modeling and flat pattern generation method for various garments.

Originality/value

Parametrically deformable garment models enable the design of garments with various size and silhouette so that designers can obtain flat patterns of complex garments before actually making them. Also the number and direction of darts can be determined automatically considering the physical property of fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 19 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 June 2002

Jelka Geršak

The contribution presented here is the development of the system for qualitative prediction of garment appearance quality. The starting point for designing such a system…

Abstract

The contribution presented here is the development of the system for qualitative prediction of garment appearance quality. The starting point for designing such a system is a qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality, based on the study of relation of fabric mechanical properties and achieved quality level of garment appearance, as well as the definition of elements of a system for qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality level, i.e. its fit.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 28 September 2012

Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the simulation of garments with various combinations of shape and size using a parametric pattern design method.

Design/methodology/approach

The approach of this study is to design garment patterns using a text‐based script language and assemble them on a deformable virtual body model to evaluate the appearance and fit of the resulting garment to facilitate the garment design process.

Findings

In this study, various garment patterns are designed parametrically by an expandable script language and simulated directly on a deformable body model.

Research limitations/implications

The size and shape of parametrically generated garment patterns are all different for each garment and therefore a full‐texture mapping technique cannot be applied.

Practical implications

This method may reduce the time required to evaluate the appearance and fit of bespoke garments by replacing the trial‐and‐error based traditional procedures.

Originality/value

The integration of a script‐based parametric pattern design method into the garment drape simulation system is one of the most useful applications for the practical garment design process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 3 October 2008

Kai Yang, Ming‐Li Jiao, Yi‐Song Chen, Jun Li and Wei‐Yuan Zhang

The purpose of this paper is to explore the heat transfer and establish a heat transfer model of an extravehicular liquid cooling garment based on a thermal manikin…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to explore the heat transfer and establish a heat transfer model of an extravehicular liquid cooling garment based on a thermal manikin covered with soft simulated skin.

Design/methodology/approach

The thermal manikin applied in this study was a copper manikin, typical of which was its soft simulated skin – a newly thermoplastic elastomer material. Based on this novel thermal manikin, the heat transfer analysis of an extravehicular liquid cooling garment was performed. To satisfy the practical engineering application and simplify analysis, the hypotheses were proposed, and then the heat transfer model was established by heat transfer theory, in which the heat exchange equation of the liquid cooling garment with the thermal manikin and with the air layer, and the garment's total heat dissipating capacity were derived.

Findings

The verification experiments performed in a climatic chamber by a thermal manikin wearing a liquid cooling garment at different surface temperatures of the thermal manikin show that the modeling value fits well with the experimental value, and the heat transfer model of the liquid cooling garment has a high accuracy. Meanwhile, the relationship between the heat‐dissipating capacity of the liquid cooling garment and its design parameters – inlet temperature and liquid velocity – is suggested as being based on the heat transfer model.

Originality/value

The paper shows that it is an effective method to control the heat‐dissipating capacity of a liquid cooling garment by changing the inlet temperature to some degree, but not by changing the liquid velocity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 October 2000

Tae Jin Kang and Sung Min Kim

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires…

Abstract

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of trial and error in the traditional pattern generation methods, we developed a new direct pattern generation method using body‐garment shape matching process. In this method, we first generated a body model using three‐dimensionally measured anthropometric data and transformed it to have a convex shape similar to that of a commonly used dummy model in garment design process. Then a typical garment model has been defined by measuring the surface information of a dummy model using stereoscopy and adjusting its shape considering the geometrical constraints of the underlying body model to obtain the optimum fit garment patterns. Finally, we developed a pattern flattening algorithm that flattens the three‐dimensionally adjusted garment model into two‐dimensional patterns considering the anisotropic properties of the fabric to be used.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 February 2004

Lisa Macintyre, Margot Baird and Phil Weedall

Pressure garments have been used prophylactically and to treat hypertrophic scars, resulting from serious burns, since the early 1970s. They are custom‐made from elastic…

Abstract

Pressure garments have been used prophylactically and to treat hypertrophic scars, resulting from serious burns, since the early 1970s. They are custom‐made from elastic fabrics by commercial producers and occupational therapists. However, no clear scientifically established method has ever been published for their manufacture from powernet fabrics. The earlier work identified the most commonly used fabrics and construction methods for the production of pressure garments by occupational therapists in UK burn units. These methods have now been evaluated by measuring the pressures delivered to both cylinder models and to human limbs using I‐scan® pressure sensors. The effect of cylinder/limb circumference and the effects of the fabric and reduction factor used in pressure garment construction on pressures exerted have now been established. These measurements confirm the limitations of current pressure garment construction methods used in UK hospitals. These results were also used to evaluate the Laplace law for the prediction of interface pressures.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 1/2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 December 1999

Sau Fun Frency Ng and Chi Leung Patrick Hui

Pressure garments are mainly made of elastic Lycra fabrics and tailor‐made to individual patients’ measurements to provide an appropriate amount of skin‐garment interface…

Abstract

Pressure garments are mainly made of elastic Lycra fabrics and tailor‐made to individual patients’ measurements to provide an appropriate amount of skin‐garment interface pressure for burn rehabilitation. However, the fabric tension would be different at various locations from the hem edges of pressure garments, and thus the skin‐garment interface pressure cannot be uniformly maintained over the interface surface. Aims to investigate the pattern of interface pressure changes caused by the different types of edge finish used for making pressure garments. The effect of garment sizes on the change of interface pressure was also examined. Experiments were carried out using two selected elastic Lycra fabrics, four types of hem finish and three different garment sizes. The results of the study provide a guideline for designing the edge finish of pressure garments, and a minimum margin from the hem edges of garments to the scar area is also recommended.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 29 June 2018

Jiajia Peng, Gaoming Jiang, Honglian Cong, Xuan Luo and Yan Zhao

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and…

Abstract

Purpose

The whole garment technology offers a solution for the production efficiency by directly knitting a seamless tubular garment. Due to its complexity, high requirements and few references, the technology has not been widely applied in mass production. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to show garment technology’s detailed design method, the technique calculation process and its merits compared than common technology.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper first analyzes the knitting principle of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine from its configuration. After that, the design method is putted forward as well as the technique calculation process. To reveal the advantages of the whole garment technology, this paper builds a comprehensive evaluation system by comparing the knitting time, labor cost and the yarn consumption.

Findings

With the evaluation system, the whole garment technology is proved to be more productive, cost-saving and less materials-consuming. Moreover, this advantage stands more out when the machine gage is higher.

Research limitations/implications

Due to limited research time and references, this paper only presents the whole garment technology for knitting common and traditional styles. More complicated and fashioned garments can be studied in the future research.

Practical implications

The design method and technology presented in this paper can be used as a reference for both the designers in the manufacture industry and the scholars for academic research works.

Originality/value

This paper has presented the whole garment technology and a specific method for technique calculation with consideration of garment structures. It also builds a evaluation system to show the advantages in terms of knitting efficiency, labor cost and yarn consumption.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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