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The breaking strength compromises fabric wearing out during wear of garments and is a determining parameter in their useful life. Thus, it is intended to compare the efficacy of each method concerning the understanding of results, which is, the explanation of the phenomenon, namely through statistical models which characterize abrasion strength, measured by each method, as a function of fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters.

The simulation of abrasion mechanism was done on Martindale wear and abrasion tester, following two ways: the weight loss and two yarns breakage methods. The average weight loss of a fabric was determined among four specimens (in mg/5,000 cy). Fabric abrasion was done against a standard wool fabric under a 12 KPa pressure. In the two yarns breakage method, the number of abrasion cycles required to break two yarns is determined according to Woolmark Company TM 112 test standard.

In general, no better models to explain abrasion strength by the breakage of two yarns method are achieved when FAST variables are considered respecting those based on classical ones. However, for woollen fabrics, there is an interesting model, which gathers classical and FAST variables with higher explanation: shear rigidity and polyamide composition. This allows one to conclude that this FAST parameter performs an important role in the abrasion behaviour of fabrics.

As the abrasion consequences cause fabric degradation, a better understanding is obtained of the different abrasion stage mechanisms, which explain both evaluation methods: breakage of two yarns and weight loss. It is intended to gather conditions for a future definition of a single and comprehensive evaluation methodology of abrasion.

There has been much discussion in the literature about the relationship between fabric “handle” and objective instrumental measurements of fabric low stress mechanical and surface properties such as fabric tensile properties, shear, bending, lateral compression, surface friction and surface roughness. But fabric “handle” is not really an inherent fabric property, rather it is a description of one of the ways in which people generally make a subjective assessment of some of the quality attributes of apparel fabrics, designed for particular end‐use applications. In contrast, fabric drape is an inherent mechanical property of a fabric. Fabric drape is that unique property which quantifies the ability of a fabric to bend simultaneously in more than one plane. In order to exhibit the property of drape, fabrics must be able to bend and shear simultaneously, thus distinguishing textile materials from paper or thin polymer films. Develops a fundamental mechanical analysis of fabrics bending under their own weight. The equations governing the shape of an elastic fabric cantilever are solved numerically. Discusses the implications for experimental measurement of fabric bending length and fabric bending rigidity in terms of these numerical solutions with negligibly small errors. Graphically presents profiles of the draped fabric cantilever. Makes a comparison of the numerical solutions with the approximate formulae derived by F.T. Peirce.

Bond strength is an indicator of the quality of the fusing process. The study's primary purpose is to predict the bond strength using easily measurable variables. This study focuses on shirting fabrics fused with woven interlinings and changes in bond strength before and after washing.

This study attempts to model and predict bond strength of fused shirt composites using an initial screening design followed by full factorial design of experiments. After screening out, those found significantly affecting the bond strength are fabric fiber content, interlining areal weight and fusing temperature. This study proposes the regression models explaining the effect of the three variables on bond strength before and after washing the fused composites.

This study found that heavy interlinings (250 g/sq.m) require higher fusing temperatures than the lighter interlining (225 g/sq.m). After washing, the bond strength of samples fused at high temperatures reduced in some instances. Maintaining a high temperature without considering interlining weight can lower the bond strength after washing the fused composites.

A combination of screening and full factorial DOE is used to analyze and predict bond strength of composites comprising medium-weight shirting fabrics and heavier weight interlinings used in shirts.

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.

The purpose of this study is to predict the thermal protective performance (TPP) of flame-retardant fabric more economically using machine learning and analyze the factors affecting the TPP using model visualization.

A total of 13 machine learning models were trained by collecting 414 datasets of typical flame-retardant fabric from current literature. The optimal performance model was used for feature importance ranking and correlation variable analysis through model visualization.

Five models with better performance were screened, all of which showed R2 greater than 0.96 and root mean squared error less than 3.0. Heat map results revealed that the TPP of fabrics differed significantly under different types of thermal exposure. The effect of fabric weight was more apparent in the flame or low thermal radiation environment. The increase in fabric weight, fabric thickness, air gap width and relative humidity of the air gap improved the TPP of the fabric.

The findings suggested that the visual analysis method of machine learning can intuitively understand the change trend and range of second-degree burn time under the influence of multiple variables. The established models can be used to predict the TPP of fabrics, providing a reference for researchers to carry out relevant research.

The findings of this study contribute directional insights for optimizing the structure of thermal protective clothing, and introduce innovative perspectives and methodologies for advancing heat transfer modeling in thermal protective clothing.

The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to obtain the fabric GSM. The relative permittivity of the sample fabrics changes the capacitance value. A relationship between capacitance and GSM that best fits the look-up table is obtained. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

The purpose of the study is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric GSM measurement.

The proposed non-destructive method of fabric GSM measurement using capacitance principle is designed, developed and tested. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

The change in capacitance due to relative permittivity of the sample fabric is in pF range (10-12). The system can be further improved by using a capacitance sensor of sensitivity upto 1 fF (10-15). By doing so, the proposed system provides better results in terms of accuracy and resolution. The system developed can be further extended by making it online equipment which measures the fabric GSM instantaneously.

So far there is no non-destructive testing method available for fabric weight measurement. The newly designed and developed instrument is used to test the fabric both woven and knitted non-destructively.

Quality assessment of textile products is of prime concern to intimately meet consumer demands. The dilemma faced by textile producers is to figure out the stability among quality criteria and efficiently deal with target specifications. Hence, the basic devotion is to attain the optimum value product which entirely satisfies the views and perceptions of consumers. Selection of best fabric among several alternatives in the presence of contradictory measures is a disputing problem in multicriteria decision-making.

In the current study, the analytic hierarchy process (AHP) and preference ranking organization method for enrichment evaluation (PROMETHEE) are proficiently used to solve the problem in selection of branded woven shawls. AHP method verifies comparative weights of the criteria selection, while the ranking of fabric alternatives grounded on specific net-outranking flows is executed through PROMETHEE II method.

The collective AHP and PROMETHEE approaches are applied for the useful accomplishment of grading of branded shawls based on multicriteria weights, used for effective selection of fabric materials in the textile market.

In the apparel industry, fabric and garment manufacturers often rely on hit-and-trial methods, leading to significant wastage of valuable resources and time, in achieving the desirable fabric qualities. The implementation of the findings can assist apparel manufacturers in streamlining their fabric selection processes based on multiple criteria. By adopting this method, industry players can make informed decisions, ensuring a balance between quality standards and consumer expectations, thereby enhancing both product value and market competitiveness.

The methods of Visual PROMETHEE and AHP are assimilated to offer a complete method for the selection and grading of fabrics with reference to multiple selection criteria.

Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic blends containing hollow fibres, bamboo and cotton/polyester waste on the mechanical properties of the produced fabrics and the appropriate end use.

This research included two blends: one consisted of cotton/polyester wastes blended with bamboo and the other to which Chorisia fibres were added. Two weft counts 10,6/1 Ne were made from each blend, which were used to produce four fabric samples (S1 Chorisia-free and S2 with Chorisia); additionally, another two samples were dyed that contain Chorisia (S3) from each count. The six samples were tested by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES).

The samples gave a good total hand value (THV) for use as men's winter suits, where the thicker count 6/1, with and without Chorisia had better properties, also both counts 6, 10/1 with dye. The hollow fibres affected the fabrics’ properties, including thickness, shear, bending, thermal conductivity and weight. Both blends had a positive effect on THV.

Cotton/polyester waste, Chorisia and bamboo fibres were tested, and 2% Remazol Yellow GNL dye was used.

The ratio of blending, weft counts and dye affected the fabric’s properties, with consequences for the use of the Kawabata system and its applications.

The fabrics used in this research may be considered to be economical and have good THV.

The study proved the usefulness of fabrics made of two blends. The Chorisia component may be seen as a good alternative to cotton fibres to reduce the cost of producing high-consumption winter suit fabrics.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of laundering on the drape, shear, and bending properties of bottom weight fabrics.

Six bottom‐weight 100 percent cotton fabrics were included. Collier's Drape Tester was utilized to obtain drape values. Bending and shear values were measured on the KES‐F Shear Tester and the Pure Bending Tester. Three laundering cycles (unlaundered, one and five home launderings) following AATCC methods were explored.

Laundry cycle did not have a significant effect on fabric drape, shear or bending properties. However, drape values increased overall, while shear and bending modulus and hysteresis decreased, resulting in a more drapable, pliable fabric after five laundry cycles.

Future research examining a wider variety of fabrics and conducting a greater number of laundry cycles to approximate an average yearly number of laundry cycles is recommended. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of drape and fabric mechanical properties related to drape after laundry treatments would assist the apparel manufacturer in developing laundry recommendations based on the fabric's performance and in selecting fabrics which maintain their drape characteristics, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability with use. Higher quality garments with increased consumer satisfaction would result.

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.

First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.

For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.

In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.