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To investigate consumers’ perceptions of appearance and handle of the chest area and the lapel in men’s tailored jackets, both objective measurement using FAST and subjective assessment utilising semi‐structured interview were employed. It was found that objective measurement provides insufficient information to predict the tailorability if reliance is placed purely upon properties obtained from shell fabrics. Use of the fabric and interlining laminates, however, provides better prediction of tailorability, especially those aspects associated with appearance and shape retention. It was also found that objective measurement results do not agree with the subjective assessment results, particularly with regard to the subjective assessment of the female interviewees. It is suggested that thought should be given to devising a method of evaluating objective measurement results suitable to fabric and interlining laminates that can also take account of market trends directly related to consumer perception.

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of the garment. The objective of this study is to analyse suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose of this study, specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made of nylon/polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Mechanical properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with three nonwoven interlinings are measured by the KES‐FB System for analysing the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. Some mechanical properties of fused fabrics are analysed and discussed with repetition of dry cleaning of adhesive fabrics for performing effects of dry cleaning to the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the shell fabrics.

In principal, the most compatible fusible interlining differs for different outer fabrics. However, in order to avoid handling different types of fusible interlinings during gannent manufacture, practically it is desirable to have a fusible interlining suitable for a wide range of outer fabrics. An ideal fusible interlining is therefore defined in this paper as the one which is suitable for the majority of a certain range of commercial fabrics. Based on the property range of worsted fonnal wear fabrics, the compatibility requirements of outer and fusible interlining fabrics in tailored gannents, the property range of ideal fusible interlinings for foreparts of tailored gannents using worsted fonnal wear fabrics is derived in the paper. The results of the paper provides guidelines for the development and selection of fusible interlinings.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate some important parameters in plate buckling of fused interlining worsted fabric with different weight and laying‐up direction. The article compares the formability of fused fabric composite by two different methods (Lindberg's hypothesis and fabric assurance by simple testing method).

Plate buckling compression behavior of fused fabric composite is investigated using a special designed clamp according to Dahlberg's test method.

The result shows that fusible interlining lay‐up angle significantly influences on buckling parameters. It is indicated that the buckling behavior of fused fabric composite against lay‐up interlining direction is in accordance with interlining buckling behavior. The result of research suggests that the formability behavior of fused fabric composite with interlining lay‐up direction is predictable according to Lindberg's method.

Experimental design is limited at low speed. Further research works are needed to perform buckling behavior of fused fabric composites at higher speeds as well as under cyclic loading conditions.

Compression plate buckling behavior of fused interlining fabrics is predictable against interlining laying‐up direction. The result of this research could be used in the area of garment quality serviceability.

The paper presents the objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. A system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel. On the basis of analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality the learning and testing set of examples to predict the bonding strength of fused panel has been formed.

Examines the causes of rippling, localized delamination or surface distortion in fused garment theoretically and experimentally. On the basis of this study proposes a parameter, called rippling potential, to combine the effects of bond strength, differential shrinkage, compliance of outer fabrics and fusible interlinings and fabric formability on the degree of rippling. Suggests preventive measures to avoid rippling in fused garment parts.

Garments are now becoming high class and automated. Using key face fabrics and interlining structure properties to predict the quality grade of fused composites has become an important subject in the pursuit of quick reaction of fabrics. The establishment of the ideal composite parameters for interlining and face fabrics allows us to know the ideal interlining for face fabrics sooner. Hence, this paper, through discriminate analysis and the scatter plot, successfully found the ideal composite condition range for interlining and face fabrics. Artificial neural network training was used for the structural prediction of a fused composites quality model. Model tests showed the presence of good prediction ability.

Presents the objective evaluation of a stabilized garment parts handle, based on determination of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Parameters that influence the handle are shown on the basis of 16 parameters of mechanical and physical properties of shell fabric, interlining and fused panel.

Bond strength is an indicator of the quality of the fusing process. The study's primary purpose is to predict the bond strength using easily measurable variables. This study focuses on shirting fabrics fused with woven interlinings and changes in bond strength before and after washing.

This study attempts to model and predict bond strength of fused shirt composites using an initial screening design followed by full factorial design of experiments. After screening out, those found significantly affecting the bond strength are fabric fiber content, interlining areal weight and fusing temperature. This study proposes the regression models explaining the effect of the three variables on bond strength before and after washing the fused composites.

This study found that heavy interlinings (250 g/sq.m) require higher fusing temperatures than the lighter interlining (225 g/sq.m). After washing, the bond strength of samples fused at high temperatures reduced in some instances. Maintaining a high temperature without considering interlining weight can lower the bond strength after washing the fused composites.

A combination of screening and full factorial DOE is used to analyze and predict bond strength of composites comprising medium-weight shirting fabrics and heavier weight interlinings used in shirts.

As CAD fabric modelling becomes more widespread there is a need to study the applicability of fabric property parameters which are used in predicting fabric behaviour. The anisotropical mechanical behaviour of woven fabrics, fusible interlinings and their composites were studied on order to invesigate the accuracy of equations used to predict the anisotropic linear elastic behaviour of fabric for in plane and bending deformation. Bending, shear and tensile properties were measured using KES©F equipment. Results showed that the orthotropic model of anisotropy can be applied for the qualitative modelling of woven and fusible interlining fabrics and that simple mechanical models for bending properties can be used for their composites.