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Spun silk is one of the top grade textile materials, and its products have high added value and meet the needs of the market. However, the technology level and process design of silk spinning are still much lower than cotton spinning; especially singeing is applied on spun silk yarn, and generates waste materials. The purpose of this paper is to introduce a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into silk spinning and study the corresponding spun yarn qualities.

First, taking the silk spinning frame FK501 as an example, the process of modification of FLCS is presented. Then, three kinds of spun silk yarns, 80 Nm (12.5tex), 100 Nm (10tex) and 120 Nm (8.3tex), are spun on the common silk spinning frame FK501 and the spinning frame modified with FLCS. The evenness, breaking strength and hairiness of spun yarns are tested and comparatively analyzed. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

The results show that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. Compared with the single spun silk yarn, the comprehensive qualities of the ply yarn are improved; especially, the breaking strength of the ply yarns is two times larger than the single yarn. After singeing, the hairiness of the ply yarn is decreased greatly, and the evenness is also improved, while the strength is decreased. Compared with ring spun silk yarn, the singeing times of compact spun silk yarn can be decreased, and the gas consumption in each singeing is also decreased, which is beneficial for material saving.

In this paper, a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, is introduced into the silk spinning. It is shown that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.

First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.

For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.

In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.

Eri silk fiber has superior thermal insulation behavior, better softness than cotton fiber. However, Eri silk’s use in the commercial arena has not yet taken off. The purpose of the study is to explore the comfort properties of the fabric, which enhances the commercial acceptance of Eri silk clothing.

In this investigation, three different single knit Eri silk structures were produced with different loop lengths and yarn counts to analyze the influence of process variables on low-stress mechanical properties. To execute the research work, Eri silk spun yarn of three different linear densities (15 tex, 20 tex, 25 tex) were chosen. Three different knitted structures were produced, such as single jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, and two different loop lengths were also selected.

The cellular blister structure has shown appreciable low-stress properties next highest position was attained by the popcorn structure. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the low-stress properties.

The findings of this research will contribute to a greater awareness of Eri silk knitted fabric and its process parameters in relation to its commercial utility.

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the low-stress properties of Eri silk-based thermal clothing.

Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing.

To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths.

The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties.

In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear.

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.

The removing of oil from waste silk is carried out widely by microbial fermentation. However, it is difficult to remove the oil completely. In this study, surfactants were used to enhance microbial oil removing. In seven of the surfactants that were tested, 0.1% of the anionic surfactants inhibited the growth of bacteria and 0.1% of the nonionic surfactants partially inhibited the growth of bacteria. When only the surfactant was used to remove oil, all of the tested surfactants helped remove oil from the waste silk and treatment that added 0.1% AEO-9 gave the lowest oil content.

When surfactants were combined with bacteria to remove oil, the oil content was further reduced and the lowest oil content was obtained by combining AEO-9 and bacteria. The optimum conditions for oil removing by combining AEO-9 with bacteria were pH8.0, temperature 40°C, 4% (v/v) inoculum size and 3 days incubation time. Compared with untreated silk, silk treated by combining surfactants with bacteria resulted in a decrease in oil content and improvement in appearance. Scanning electron micrographs showed that treated samples had a clean surface.

Currently, textile industrialists have to consider the sensory aspect in their design and manufacturing specifications. To describe the sensory quality of products, sensory evaluation does exist and is widely used in the food and cosmetics areas. These methodologies have been successfully transposed to tactile evaluation of textile fabrics for different textile materials: plain weave fabrics with different post‐treatments and non‐woven are used for medical gowns and drapes. In our study, we have asked our trained panel composed of nine assessors to score a list of already defined sensory attributes for different knitted fabrics made of silk/cotton blends. The spinning parameters which have been changed are the type of silk fibre (three types), blending techniques – intimate and draw frame blending – and the silk content. All these parameters can more or less influence the tactile perception of the final knitted fabric. In this paper, the results of our analysis are presented and discussed in order to answer questions such as: “Are these two fabrics different?”, “What kind of difference is there?” or “What are the sensory characteristics of these fabrics?”. The concrete steps of the evaluation will be presented and specifically the training and performance analysis of the panellists who were obliged to adapt their evaluation procedures to small knitted samples. The protocols used to carry out fabrics description and comparisons when all assessors cannot evaluate all the products under study will also be detailed.

Drawing upon Alfred Sohn-Rethel's work, we argue that, just as capitalism produces abstract labor, it coproduces both abstract mind and abstract life. Abstract mind is the split between mind and nature and between subject/observer and observed object that characterizes scientific epistemology. Abstract mind reflects an abstracted objectified world of nature as a means to be exploited. Biological life is rendered as abstract life by capitalist exploitation and by the reification and technologization of organisms by contemporary technoscience. What Alberto Toscano has called “the culture of abstraction” imposes market rationality onto nature and the living world, disrupting biotic communities and transforming organisms into what Finn Bowring calls “functional bio-machines.”

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The purpose of this paper is to substantiate Porter's ideas through multiple case studies of firms in one of Thailand's potential niches – Thai silk.

This study examined upgrading strategies adopted by six companies involved in the production and distribution of silk and silk products in Thailand. Information was gathered from company documents and interview statements given by company executives and government policy makers. Standard approaches to organizing and analyzing qualitative case study data, including description, pattern identification, concept categorization and generalization were utilized.

The companies have implemented upgrading strategies in the following four main areas: first, balancing efficiency and old customs in production; second, innovating new products while preserving unique traditional features; third, developing modern marketing and distribution techniques with a cultural flare; and fourth, building linkages and clusters.

Stakeholders of traditional- or cultural-related industries may increase their chances of successfully renewing their businesses’ competitive advantage by carefully balancing the needs to both preserve and modernize key processes in their industries’ value chains.

The paper's findings and recommendations may to be useful to other traditional industries that share similar challenges both in Thailand and in other Southeast Asian countries.

This paper identifies challenges the traditional Thai silk industry has faced during its internationalization, and the public and private responses employed to overcome challenges.

In-depth interviews were conducted with major players along the Thai silk value chain to gain insights into the industry's transformation from a domestic, cottage industry into an international fashion producer.

Thai silk has created a niche market for high-end, cultural products, thus successfully sidestepping direct competition from emerging low-cost producers. The main innovative strategies employed include introducing new products, upgrading quality, attracting new customers, and collaboration between actors all along the silk value chain.

This study illustrates how a traditional industry can evolve and successfully adapt to changing consumer demands and competitive landscapes in a globalize economy.