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The purpose of this paper is to explore the synergic effect of wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) combination herbal extracts treatment on the moisture management properties of cotton, lyocell and micro-denier single jersey knitted fabrics and the factors affecting it, which is intended for the development of healthcare apparel products.

The pre-treated single jersey knitted fabrics of cotton, lyocell and micro-denier polyester fabrics were given finishing treatment with the wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) combination herbal extract proportions of 100%:0%, 75%:25%,50%:50%; 25%:75% and 0%:100%. The D-optimal factorial design developed using Design Expert software was used for the study. The finishing treatments were carried out using the pad−dry−cure method. The aim of the work is to find out the influence of combination herbal extract proportion, textile material and their interaction effect on the moisture management properties.

The ANOVA results revealed that the overall moisture management properties of single jersey knitted fabrics are influenced by the material type, combination herbal extract proportion and the interaction between material type and the combination herbal extracts proportion. The overall moisture management properties of combination herbal extracts treated cotton single jersey fabrics are found to be better than that of lyocell and micro-denier polyester fabrics due to their excellent accumulative one-way transport capability after the finishing treatment. Among the combination herbal extract proportions, 50:50 per cent combination herbal extract proportion was found to be better than other proportions.

The study on the moisture management properties of combination herbal extracts of wild turmeric (Curcuma Aromatica Salisb.) and holy basil (Ocimum Tenuiflorum L.) is a novel attempt to explore the synergic effect of active constituents in both the herbs.

The purpose of this paper is to identify the significant factors important for prickle discomfort properties of commercial wool knitwear and to analyse information on variability of garments manufactured over two decades, a total of 177 purchased garments were tested.

The relationship between the attributes of the reversed engineered garments and garment comfort, as assessed by Wool ComfortMeter, was determined.

The results indicate that: mean fibre diameter had the most significant effect on prickle assessment; the coefficient of variation of fibre diameter interacted with fabric thickness in affecting prickle discomfort; and rib knit structures were pricklier than single jersey structures.

The results provide objective evidence that the consumer surveys reporting dissatisfaction with the prickle discomfort of wool are based on real consumer experiences of prickle discomfort and are not based on “prejudice” against wool garments.

This study investigates the effect of ring and compact spun yarns such as Sussen Elite and Com4 spun yarn on the physical and comfort characteristics of single jersey, rib and plain interlock knitted fabrics. The physical characteristics such as fabric aerial density, tightness factor, spirality and pilling behaviour were studied and statistically analyzed using Multivariable ANOVA analysis. The comfort characteristics such as thermal insulation behaviour (TIV), water vapour permeability, wicking and air permeability were studied and reported. The test results showed that compact spun yarn knitted fabrics such as Sussen Elite and Com4 yarn fabrics demonstrated higher thermal insulation behaviour in all the knitted structures when compared to ring spun yarn knitted fabrics. The low stress mechanical characteristics such as shear and compressional behaviour of ring and compact spun yarn knitted fabrics were also reported.

Elastane yarns contribute significant elastic properties to all types of fabrics and these properties for very important for wears including tights, sportswear, under wear, casual wear, swimwear, corsetry, etc. in terms of appearance, comfort and duration of wear. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

It is investigated with this study strength, fatigue and bagging properties of plated plain knitted fabrics containing different rates of elastane.

The study showed that single jersey, not having elastane and having the lowest fabric tightness, has the lowest bursting strength, the highest fatigue loading values in high extensions, the lowest fatigue height values and the worst bagging behavior. On the contrary of single jersey, full elastane fabric has the exact opposite characteristics considering the fabric properties examined.

Fabric with 1×1 elastane and fabric with 2×1 elastane is similar, and these fabrics show bagging behavior better than single jersey and worse than full elastane fabric whereas the other properties of these fabrics are close to full elastane fabric.

Knitted fabrics containing elastane provide high level of comfort and ease of usage because of the elastic and drape properties over the body. Knitted fabrics respond to every movement of the body and return back to its original shape easily so they are used widely for apparel production. The most important properties required from the elastic knitted garments are wear comfort, fit, breathability and durability. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of elastane yarn count and ground yarn count on the performance properties of 12 single jersey knitted fabrics were analysed after dying.

The research design for this study consists an experimental study. In all, 12 fabrics containing half plating and full plating elastane were produced using 30/1-40/1 Ne yarn counts. Bursting strength, stretch recovery, residual extension, air permeability, spirality and drape properties of fabrics were evaluated.

As a result of study it was found a certain effect as the elastane amount and count changed. For all types of knitted fabrics, bursting strength values increased and fabric spirality values decreased as the elastane amount and elastane yarn count increased. Also it was found a significant relationship between elastane amount and count with air permeability, spirality, bursting strength and drape.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that the effects of elastane amount, elastane yarn count and fabric yarn count on the performance properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied broadly.

Air permeability of knitted fabrics is normally measured for the samples in their unstretched state. But, this air permeability values indicate the ability of these garments to allow air through them when they are not in use. But, the real-time condition is different and certainly the knitted garments mentioned above will subject to a degree of stretch during their usage. So, the measurement of air permeability under stretch and the fabric properties which would influence the air permeability of weft-knitted fabrics in their stretched state is of paramount importance. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

The aim of this research work is to investigate the change in air permeability values under the incremental extension of cotton tubular weft-knitted fabrics produced from the yarns of different spinning systems.

From the results, it is evident that the pique fabric samples of compact spun yarn displayed the highest air permeability values during the incremental stretch at all the three relaxation states. It is followed by the pique samples of ring spun yarn. Next to pique samples, the jersey samples made from the compact yarn and ring spun yarn revealed more air permeability, respectively. The core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples displayed the least air permeability values, respectively. But, the pique and jersey samples made up of ring yarn and compact yarn showed gradual reduction in their air permeability towards the incremental stretch and the core spun pique samples and core spun jersey samples were uniformly seen with gradual increase in their air permeability during the incremental stretch.

Very limited quantity of research has been carried out in this area. So, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the influence of incremental stretch on air permeability of single knit structures.

Preparing a collection is a costly process when compared with mass production. Although it is a short‐run process, there are high unit costs due to the need for ordering knitted or woven material, and making necessary preparations for print and stitch patterns. All of these factors increase the cost of collection samples. Because the amount of material to be used for the preparation of the collection is small, having the material knitted or woven, or having it dyed, if it is raw, is more expensive compared with mass production. However, if the company trusts its own collection and receives positive feedback from its customers, it may consider using the material for production and keep the orders at a high level, thus decreasing the unit price. The purpose of this study is to put forward methods of calculating expenses for preparing a collection and collection costs. It also presents a sample application using present‐day values to give a comparison of collection samples with mass production samples. This makes it possible to come up with the most profitable production techniques. For this purpose, 40 T‐shirt designs were made; of these, ten models with different production features were carefully selected. Production steps were classified and the cost for each step was then calculated. By adding the cost of each step together, unit model cost was found. The collection cost was determined in the same way. It has been observed that the costs increase according to the raw material, auxiliary equipment, accessories, side processes and labour.

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

The main factors affecting consumers when selecting denim garments are aesthetic, appearance and fashion. Besides these factors, comfort and performance properties of the denim garments during usage are very important. The purpose of this paper is to determine the effects of different finishing processes on the performance properties of 100 percent cotton and 98 percent cotton+2 percent elastane denim fabrics.

The research design for this study consists of experimental study. In order to evaluate the effects of finishing on the performance properties of fabrics, eight types of fabrics were selected for evaluation. Rigid, resin, bleaching and softening type fabrics with and without elastane were analyzed statistically.

The results obtained in the study clearly showed that the types of finishing and elastane fiber in the fabric structure had a significant influence on mechanical and comfort properties of denim fabrics.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that there were limited studies concerning mechanical, functional and comfort properties of denim fabrics together. In this study, the effects of finishing processes on the tear strength, stiffness, drape, mechanical and thermal comfort characteristics were deeply evaluated.

The purpose of this paper is to optimize the linear densities of polyester yarn and filament for inner layer and elastane for middle layer with cotton yarn outer layer in plain knitted plated structure for hot and dry environment clothing.

Three levels of polyester yarn linear densities (11.1, 8.4 and 5.6 Tex), filament linear densities (0.8, 1.55 and 2.3 Decitex) and elastane (0, 4 and 8 percent) with 14.75 Tex cotton yarn have been used to knit 15 single jersey plated fabrics based on Box and Benhens experimental design with same loop length. Three cotton–elastane core-spun fabrics were also produced. All the fabrics were analyzed for moisture and ergonomic comfort properties and wet fabric coefficient of friction.

The increase in elastane content and yarn linear density decreases water vapor and air permeability; the increase in filament linear density decreases wicking rate and water absorbency. The optimum solution is 5.55 Tex polyester yarn of 0.8 Decitex filament as inner layer and 14.75 Tex cotton yarn as outer layer which gives good heat and moisture transfer without stickiness.

The implication of this paper is to study thinner polyester, polypropylene and polyethylene fabrics with more micro pores as skin contact layer for quicker heat and moisture transfer.

Outward wickability of sweat from the skin is the prime requirement of all skin contact layer fabrics.

It shifts the social attitude of most comfortable fabric to polyester–cotton plated for hot and dry climate.

This paper employs a more practical method for the selection of fabric.