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This study aims to dye silk with natural pigments extract of Coreopsis tinctoria, by treating the fabrics with appropriate mordant under suitable dyeing conditions, to achieve good dyeing depth, fastness and ultraviolet (UV) protection.

Firstly, single factor experiments were used to determine the basic dyeing conditions of Coreopsis tinctoria. The optimal process conditions for direct dyeing were determined through orthogonal experiments. After that, the dyeing with mordant was used. Based on the previously determined optimal process conditions, silk fabrics were dyed with different mordanting methods, with different mordants and mordant dosages. The dyeing results were compared, in terms of the K/S values of the dyed fabrics, to determine the most appropriate dyeing conditions with mordant.

The extract of Coreopsis tinctoria can dye silk fabrics satisfactorily. Good dyeing depth and fastness can be obtained by using suitable dyeing methods and dyeing conditions, especially when using the natural mordant pomegranate rind and the rare earth mordant neodymium oxide. The silk fabrics dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria have good UV resistance, which allows a desirable finishing effect to be achieved while dyeing, using a safe and environmentally friendly method.

The composition of Coreopsis tinctoria is complex, and the specific composition of colouring the silk fibre has not been determined. There are many factors that affect the dyeing experiment, which have an impact on the experimental results.

The results of this study may help expand the application of Coreopsis tinctoria beyond medicine.

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this paper is the first report on dyeing silk with the extract of Coreopsis tinctoria achieving good dyeing results. Its depth of staining and staining fastness were satisfactory. Optimum dyeing method and dyeing conditions have been identified. The fabric dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria has good UV protection effect, which is conducive to improving the application value of the dyeing fabric. The findings help offer a new direction for the application of medicinal plants in the eco-friendly dyeing of silk.

Dyeing of silk fabric was studied to increase dye uptake using eco-friendly glycerine based eutectic solvent (GES), which acts as a swelling agent.

The swelling behaviour of silk fabric in GES was analyzed using three-dimensional laser scanning microscope. Dyeing parameters such as time, temperature and GES concentration were optimized using design of experiments.

In total, 5.34 F-value and 0.0014 p-value of ANOVA represent that the model is significant. An optimized GES assisted dyeing was carried out with two different classes of dyes such as Acid Blue 281 and Acid Red 151 and further compared with that of conventional aqueous dyeing method.

At 70°C, silk fabric achieves desired colour strength after 35 min of dyeing (10 min lesser than conventional) using GES assisted dyeing method. % Dye exhaustion of GES assisted dye bath was carried out and found to be very good. Fastness properties such as washing, light and rubbing fastness of conventional and GES assisted dyed silk fabric showed comparable results.

The purpose of this study is to optimize single-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend, to achieve uniform colour strength for both the fibre after the dyeing process. Due to different absorption characteristics of wool and silk, two-stage dyeing is preferred in the industry. If the fibres are dyed together, the wool fibre becomes darker and the silk fibre becomes lighter after the dyeing process. Solid dyeing effect can be achieved using a single-bath dyeing process.

The dye-acceptor sites in the wool fibre are first blocked using one commercial syntan Mesitol HWS. Then, the syntan-treated wool and silk fibres (80:20 blend ratios) are dyed with Telon Navy AMF dyes in the presence of sodium sulphate. To explore the influence of Syntan, sodium sulphate and the experimental conditions on the dyeing process and to optimize the process, central composite design (CCD) of four factors and three levels was tested.

The design process is optimized using four independent variables: Mesitol HWS concentration, sodium sulphate concentration, pH of dyebath and temperature of dyeing. Three levels of Mesitol HWS concentration (5, 10 and 15 per cent), sodium sulphate concentration (10, 20 and 30 per cent), pH (2.5, 4 and 5.5) and temperature of dyeing (70, 80 and 900°C) were selected for this study. These variables are optimized using response surface regression equation of the ratio of K/S wool and K/S silk. The predicted equation matched well with the experimental data.

This paper proposes the use of one-bath dyeing process of wool and silk blend fabric to reduce the dyeing time, process step and to save water.

Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process. Currently, most dye houses use sodium hydrosulfite (Na₂S₂O₄) and alkali (NaOH) as the substances for providing hydrogen as a reducing agent. Since the sodium hydroxide by-products are acidic, they may damage equipment in the dye houses, generate air pollution in working environment. The other problems associated with the use of sodium hydrosulfite are the cost and instability with low storage.

This paper is based on continuing improvements to the commercialization of the raw materials via the innovative degumming process elaborated in the author’s previous study: “Degumming of Silk Fibers by CO₂ Supercritical Fluid.” The initial study has already proved that it was possible to remove sericin from raw silk fiber by using an organic acid pretreatment and CO₂ supercritical fluid over the heavy processes the industry currently deploys. The sericin removed from this innovative and eco-friendly processing of silk fiber will be remained in a clean state, not in the form of waste via the existing technologies in use. Clean sericin, rich in silk protein with high market values, can be a potentially perfect substitute of collagen the medical and cosmetic industries widely use. The continued research is focused on the other by-product coming out from this eco-friendly degumming process the silk fibers post degumming. Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process.

Degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO₂ degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment. The implications or potential applications of the findings: as it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO₂. Moreover, implementation of the scCO₂ silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufactures to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

The innovation and novel aspects of research: degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO₂ degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO₂ degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

As it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO₂. Moreover, implementation of the scCO₂ silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufacturers to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

To make the silk manufacturing more green, the author has developed a technology for obtaining a plant-based indigo dye applying only locally grown agricultural products. The author has found that banana paste and banana peel paste have a sufficiently enough reduction potential for converting the indigo dye into indigo white, which is an important stage in the dyeing processes. The investigation performed showed that both these pastes can serve as a green alternative to sodium hydrosulfite, widely used in industry as a reducing agent. The main result of this study is the demonstration that natural, recyclable and easily biodegradable resources can be exploited to produce the semi-products for the textile industry and the final dyed silk fabrics as well. Summarizing the above, it can be concluded that we have got the results, which show promising alternative green processes for the textile industry in silk treatment (both degumming and dyeing). Their implementation may turn the silk textile production into a sustainable green circle and economically viable manufacturer.

In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on the other hand, wool is responsible for resilience, softness and warmth properties. Chemically both the fibres are protein-based, but the amount of amino acids is different. Due to this, the dye absorption behaviours of the two fibres from the same dye-bath are different. Wool is become darker than the silk fibre, if both the fibres are dyed together in a single bath dyeing process.

Here the wool fibres are first pre-treated with a commercial synthetic tanning agent (syntan) Mesitol HWS at three different pH values of 2.2, 3.2 and 4.2 and at three different concentrations: 5, 10 and 15 per cent. Then the syntan pre-treated wool fibres are dyed together with silk fibres maintaining the blend ratio as 80:20 by Telon Red MR, Telon Yellow M4GL and Telon Blue MRLW with sodium sulphate at three different concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 per cent.

The dye absorbency of the syntan-treated wool fibres decreased with increase in syntan concentration, whereas the colour strength of silk fibres increased. The resist effectiveness of wool fibres is increased from 6 to 59 per cent with increase of syntan concentration. So after the dyeing process, the colour strength of syntan-treated wool fibres are almost same with the colour strength of silk fibres. The washing fastness of the samples is improved, and wash fastness behaviour of both wool and silk fibres is almost same.

This paper gives an idea about the one bath dyeing process of wool- and silk-blended fabrics to achieve solid dyeing effect.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the efficiency of ultrasonication on new natural dye obtained from leaves and stem extracts of Daphne papyraceae using metal mordant for good cotton, silk and wool dyeing prospects. It also proposes to effect the characterisation of the colorant.

For effective natural dyeing with leaves and stem extracts of D. papyraceae, both conventional and sonication methods for cotton, silk and wool dyeing were carried out using metal mordants. The purpose of using sonication was for betterment of dye uptake, improved dye adherence and good wash and light fastnesses. Results show marked improvement by the chosen dyeing method. Simultaneously, chemical characterisation of the colorant was carried out by first column chromatographic separation of the crude extract, followed by spectral analysis of the isolated products.

The superiority of sonicator dyeing over conventional dyeing in terms of enhanced resource productivity and, as a result, reduced wastes makes it the established best available technique in the natural dyeing industry. This fact has been examined for several natural dyes. Use of sonicator shows marked enhancement for cotton‐, silk‐ and wool‐dyed fabrics. Typical bath liquor to fabric ratio for conventional dyeing varies from 20:1 to 15:1 and for sonicator dyeing from only 12:1 to 10:1, thereby reducing specific water and energy consumption by 30 and 50 per cent, respectively. The cycle time for dyeing was also reduced by 50 per cent and this would benefit the dyeing process with more tonnage of fabric per unit time and with lower waste generation. This would also result in improved capacity utilization leading to enhanced productivity levels in the dyeing houses.

Although metal mordanting with copper sulphate and potassium dichromate is not ecofriendly, only 2 per cent of these metal salts has been used to prepare different shades with leaves and stem extracts of D. papyraceae for cotton, silk and wool fabrics.

The method developed for natural dyeing of cotton, silk and wool fabrics using sonication in conjunction with metal mordanting has shown marked improvement. The chemical composition of the crude extract shows the presence of flavonoids and other specific natural pigments.

The method developed for natural dyeing of cotton, silk and wool fabrics using stem and leaves extracts of D. papyraceae under sonication in conjunction with metal mordanting has shown marked improvement in terms of dye adherence and fastness properties and can thus be recommended for industrial application. This is a new source of natural dye.

Equisetum arvense L. (Equisetum) is a weed that is very difficult to remove because of its deep roots. The purpose of this paper is to examine the dyeability and antioxidant activity of Equisetum extracted from hot water.

Dry Equisetum was extracted at 100°C for 2 h, and its dyeability according to time, temperature and repetition cycle, and the mordant effect by skim milk powder were confirmed. The color change according to the K/S, fastness to rubbing, light, sweat and washing, UV protection rate and antioxidant activity were evaluated.

UV‒Vis spectroscopy showed that the Equisetum extract contained a flavonoid compound. The addition of Equisetum to artificial silk produced the greatest color difference when dyed at 60°C for 1 h, and the K/S value increased slightly after the pre-mordant treatment. In the fastness test, light and washing had no significant effect, but the fastness to rubbing was very good at Grades 4 and 5, and there was also a considerable improvement in the UV protection rate. The antioxidant activity of the extract was confirmed by an analysis of the radical scavenging ability through the DPPH (1,1-diphenyl 2-picryl-hydrazyl) and ABTS ([2,2’- azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothialzoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt]) tests.

These results revealed a new natural antioxidant-containing dyestuff, weed grass, which is easy to obtain, easy to use as a dyeing material and has excellent antioxidant activity in an extracted dye solution and dyeing fabric.

The textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with Rhodamine B (RhB) for fashion applications to reduce textile hazards to the environment and increase the added value of silk.

Bombyx mori was fed with RhB-colored mulberry leaves (1500 ppm). The effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.

Self-dyed silk possesses effective coloration and impressive color fastness (4–5/5), higher crystalline index (CrI) (73.26 ± 2.28%), less thermal stability and tenacity, slight change in amino acid composition compared with the pristine and no existence of harmful aromatic azo amines and arylamine salts.

The application of self-dyed silk with RhB dye has expanded new technology into fashion industry, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to silk in the global supply chain. Besides, the self-dyeing will yield practical values in the reduction of dyeing discharge in textile industry.

Self-dyed silk was characterized for textile applications in comparison with pristine silk in terms of color strength and fastness as well as determined its polymeric properties relating to crystallinity, morphology, chemical composition, tensile properties and thermal stability which have not been investigated before.

The study reported in this paper aims to synthesize some new curcumin containing sulphadiazine and sulphathiazole dyestuffs and study their application in dyeing silk fabrics rendering the dyed fabric antibacterial.

Simultaneous dyeing and antibacterial finishing for silk fabric using a new antibacterial acid dye having a modified chemical structure to curcumin were conducted. This modification of curcumin dye was carried out by introducing sulphonamide containing heterocyclic rings sulphadiazine and sulfathiazole through coupling with curcumin. All newly synthesized dyes were characterized by elemental analyses and spectral data (IR, 1H-NMR and MS). The dyeing characteristics of these dyestuffs were evaluated at optimum conditions. Antibacterial activities of the dyed samples at different concentrations of both dyes were studied against gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and gram-negative (Salmonella typhimurium) bacteria.

The synthesized curcumin-containing sulphonamide dyes were applied on silk fabrics. The modified dyes exhibited good fastness properties compared to curcumin dye at optimum conditions. It was found that synthesized dyes exhibit good fastness and antibacterial properties efficient against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. The dyed silk fabrics showed higher antibacterial efficacy after many times of washing.

Curcumin, a common natural dye used for fabric and food colouration, was used as an antimicrobial finish due to its bactericidal properties on dyed textiles. A common dyeing process could provide textiles with colour as well as antimicrobial properties. Novel antibacterial dyestuff containing curcumin moieties with sulphonamide coupler components were shown to be an interesting natural colorant for silk with high antimicrobial ability of the dyed silk fabrics. This work has afforded a new acid dye that can be used in medical textile.

In recent years, natural dyes have attracted significant attention globally because of growing public awareness of the environment and health hazards associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dyes can provide special aesthetic qualities as well as the ethical significance of a product which is environmentally friendly. By keeping this burning issue in mind, this study aims to explore the dyeing properties of various unexplored environmentally friendly natural dyes.

In this study, the aqueous extract of coconut leaves is used for dyeing purpose. The silk and jute fabrics were dyed with the extract alone as well as in combination with metal salts as mordants by employing pre-, meta- and postmordanting techniques. The dyeing properties of the colored samples were evaluated by measuring their color strength; CIEL*a*b* values; and color fastness to washing, light and rubbing.

A yellow shade was achieved when the fabric samples were dyed solely with the extract. However, shade variations were observed when different mordants and mordanting techniques were applied. In all the cases, metallic salts improved the color fastness properties of dyed samples to washing, light and rubbing especially for the silk fabric.

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first report on a natural dye extracted from the leaves of coconut. Leaf as the source of dye has added an extra advantage, as it is reproducible and can be collected easily without harming the plants. The reported dye could be an attractive choice for sustainable and eco-friendly dyeing.