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1 – 10 of 866Padma S. Vankar and Archana Gangwar
The purpose of this study is to check the effectivity of plasma in the natural dyeing of polyester fabric using four natural dyes – Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu using…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to check the effectivity of plasma in the natural dyeing of polyester fabric using four natural dyes – Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu using plasma and alum mordant. The surface modification on the polyester fabric by plasma along with the use of benign mordant alum is studied. The enhancement of dyeability in polyester fabric with natural dyes is the main focus. Due to surface modification, the wettability increases, which leads to better dye uptake. Better dye uptake and better dye adherence are the main objectives.
Design/methodology/approach
Plasma-mediated natural dyeing is the main design of this research work. The effect of plasma treatment on surface modification of synthetic fabric polyester and its subsequent effects on their dyeing with different natural dyes, namely, Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu are studied. The dyeability was further enhanced by the use of alum as mordant. The main focus is on the betterment of natural dyeing of polyester fabric using sustainable natural dyes resources for dyeing and to reduce wastewater contamination from the usage of toxic additive chemicals for cleaner production.
Findings
Plasma-mediated and alum-mordanted dyeing method facilitated very good dyeability of all the four natural dyes, namely, Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu. Color strength (K/S) values and fastness properties of plasma-treated samples were far better than untreated samples. The synergistic effect of plasma and alum mordanting has made natural dyeing of polyester very easy with very good fastness results. Natural dyeing of polyester after 2 min of plasma treatment showed excellent and desirable results. The process is also easy to be adapted by industries.
Research limitations/implications
As polyester is hydrophobic, natural dyeing of polyester fabric is not very easy, but with plasma-mediated natural dyeing, it becomes a very facile dyeing method; thus, there are no limitations. Use of plasma has reduced the need for any chemical additives which are usually added during the dyeing process.
Practical implications
This process of natural dyeing of polyester fabric can be scaled up to industrial dyeing with natural dyes. Plasma pretreatment of the fabric followed by premordanting with alum has facilitated the natural dyeing well.
Social implications
Use of plasma in place of chemical modifiers can be a green and environmentally friendly approach for sustainable coloration of polyester fabric, providing a clean wet processing for textiles dyeing.
Originality/value
The synergistic effect of plasma-mediated and alum-mordanted natural dyeing of polyester has not been attempted by any researcher. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is for the first time that pretreatment with atmospheric plasma followed by alum mordanting of polyester fabric has shown very good dye uptake and fastness properties as the dye molecules could penetrate well after 2 min of the plasma treatment.
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Ainur Rosyida, Suranto Suranto, Mohammad Masykuri and Margono Margono
This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.
Design/methodology/approach
The dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.
Findings
The best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).
Research limitations/implications
Obtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.
Practical implications
The standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.
Social implications
The use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.
Originality/value
This study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.
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Padma S. Vankar, Rakhi Shanker and Samudrika Wijayapala
The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the efficiency of dyeing on cotton wool and silk fabrics with natural dye obtained from kitchen waste of dry skin extract of Allium cepa.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the efficiency of dyeing on cotton wool and silk fabrics with natural dye obtained from kitchen waste of dry skin extract of Allium cepa.
Design/methodology/approach
The dry skin of onion produces natural dye which has been used for dyeing textiles. In the present study, innovative dyeing with onion has been shown to give good dyeing results. Pretreatment with 2 per cent metal mordant and using 5 per cent of plant extract (owf) was found to be optimum and showed very good fastness properties for cotton, wool and silk dyed fabrics. For effective natural dyeing with dry skin extract of Allium cepa, conventional method of dyeing was carried out using metal mordants. The purpose of using this source was with an idea to produce value addition dyed product from kitchen waste as the dye has very good potential of uptake, adherence to the fabric and has good wash and light fastnesses. Results show very attractive hue colours.
Findings
The preference of using easily and cheaply available material for dyeing by conventional dyeing lowers the cost of natural dyeing and enhances resource productivity and as a result, reduces waste. This makes onion scale one of the easily available materials for natural dyeing industry.
Research limitations/implications
Although metal mordanting with copper sulphate and potassium dichromate are not ecofriendly but we have used only 2 per cent of these metal salts to prepare different shades with dry scales of Allium cepa extract.
Practical implications
The method developed for natural dyeing of cotton, silk and wool fabrics using skin extract of allium in conjunction with metal mordanting has shown very deep coloration. The stepwise dyeing of cotton fabric with metal mordant by the natural dye Allium cepa showed that the stepwise dyeing process gave very good result. The dye uptake in case of stepwise dyeing was from 65‐68 per cent in the case of cotton, 70‐74 per cent in silk and 78‐82 per cent in wool with different mordants.
Originality/value
The method developed for natural dyeing of cotton, silk and wool fabrics using skin extract of allium in conjunction with metal mordanting has shown marked improvement in terms of dye adherence and fastness properties and can thus be recommended for industrial application.
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Ainur Rosyida, Suranto, Mohammad Masykuri and Margono
This paper aims to select a type of mordant from aluminium salts, namely, aluminium sulphate, aluminium nitrate and polyaluminium chloride (PAC) with the lowest potential for…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to select a type of mordant from aluminium salts, namely, aluminium sulphate, aluminium nitrate and polyaluminium chloride (PAC) with the lowest potential for contamination so that their use will minimise pollution from natural dye waste. It also aims to determine the pollution value of natural dye immersion waste from jackfruit wood extract, secang wood, mangsi fruit and several synthetic dyes, to identify potential environmental pollution.
Design/methodology/approach
Dyeing with natural dyes was performed by exhaust at room temperature by the pre-mordant method, while with synthetic dyes it was performed by exhaust according to the dyeing procedure (reactive, vat and naphthol). The groundwater, mordant solutions, natural dye extract and the waste-water from the natural and synthetic dyes were then tested to determine their biological oxygen demand (BOD5), chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solids (TSS), pH, Al and heavy metal contents such as chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co) and lead (Pb).
Findings
Aluminium sulphate had the lowest pollution load while PAC had the highest, as aluminium sulphate had a higher BOD5/COD ratio (0.62–0.67) than aluminium nitrate (0.56–0.64) or PAC (0.44–0.54). The dyeing waste from the three natural dyes contained an acidic pH of 3.5–4.2, Al of 75.280–621.34 mg/L, Cr of 0.154–0.215 mg/L and Cu of 0.035–0.072 mg/L. The values of TSS, COD and BOD5 are higher than the quality standards of the waste but are environmentally friendly because the ratio of the BOD5/COD values from the waste ranges from 0.44–0.67.
Research limitations/implications
The findings indicate that as a mordant, aluminium sulphate results in lower pollution loads than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, all three mordants contain Cr and Cu, albeit in negligible concentrations. Therefore, it is recommended that future studies strive to identify a mordant that has lower pollution loads and does not contain metals but can increase dyeing results to satisfy consumer requirements. It is the hope that, with the discovery of a new mordant, natural dyes will be the solution for the heavy metal pollution caused by synthetic dyes.
Practical implications
The use of environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes in the Indonesian textile and batik industry will give rise to superior quality eco-textile and eco-batik products. Such environmentally-friendly and high-quality products will not only increase competition and consumer interest but increase product sales as well which will, in turn, increase incomes and the economy. Additionally, an increase in the use of natural dyes by the textile and batik industry will serve as additional income to the communities and farmers from which the raw materials for the natural dyes are sourced thereby creating jobs and increasing welfare.
Social implications
As environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes replace the hazardous and toxic materials currently used in the textile and batik industry, it guarantees the health and safety of its consumers and workers. Furthermore, as the waste-water produced is biodegradable, it reduces river and groundwater pollution. It is, therefore, expected that this information will not only lead to a shift in attitude within the textile and batik industries but the adoption of environmentally-friendly materials, for the sake of the environment, as well as the development of eco-textile and eco-batik products.
Originality/value
Aluminium sulphate is a mordant type of aluminium salt with a lower potential for contamination than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, PAC has been discovered to be a mordant for natural dyes, as has the fruit of the mangsi shrub, which has recently been discovered as a naturally occurring blue dye.
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Mozhgan Hosseinnezhad, Kamaladin Gharanjig, Shahid Adeel and Alireza Mahmoudi Nahavandi
Agricultural waste and food sources are some of the pollutants of the environment. One of these wastes is the peel of fruits that cannot be consumed as food. In this regard…
Abstract
Purpose
Agricultural waste and food sources are some of the pollutants of the environment. One of these wastes is the peel of fruits that cannot be consumed as food. In this regard, walnut husk (WH) and oleaster peel (PO) are known as two important sources of tannin and are bulky wastes. Because of the high percentage of tannin, these materials can be used as a natural source for the preparation of bio-mordant in the dyeing process.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, Reseda and Madder were used as natural dyes in the presence of a mixture of two bio-mordants. WH and PO were selected as bio-mordant. All natural resources are extracted to obtain the juice. The phenolic percentage of tannin-containing extracts was evaluated and then it was used for wool yarns by premordanting method. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method.
Findings
The most important achievement of this research is the use of agricultural waste in the dyeing process to reduce environmental pollution and create added value. All compounds rich in tannin have some phenolic components, therefore the amount of phenolic content of these extracts was evaluated. The effect of mixing the mordant on the color characteristics of the yarns was investigated and the results showed that changing the ratio of the combination of two mordant is effective on the K/S values. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method showed that the washing, rubbing and light fastness in the presence of mordant is good, good and moderate, respectively.
Originality/value
In this paper, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, for the first time, the combination of two natural extracts obtained from agricultural waste has been used to create a new bio-mordant on fibers and improve stability.
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Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Benjamin Eghan, Emmanuel Abankwah Ofori, George Kwame Fobiri, Alex Osei Afriyie and Richard Acquaye
The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties.
Findings
Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/Ssum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor.
Practical implications
Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes.
Originality/value
This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.
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Guizhen Ke, Ziying Zhao, Chen Shuhui and Jianqiang Li
The purpose of this paper is to explore a new eco-friendly green textile dyeing. Natural plant Buddleja officinalis is traditionally used as yellow pigment addition in rice. It is…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore a new eco-friendly green textile dyeing. Natural plant Buddleja officinalis is traditionally used as yellow pigment addition in rice. It is worth developing its application and dyeing performance in cotton fabric.
Design/methodology/approach
Buddleja officinalis dried flower was extracted with ethanol aqueous. The extraction conditions including ethanol concentration, material to liquor ratio, extract time and temperature were optimized. Then cotton fabrics were dyed with Buddleja officinalis extraction under conventional and ultrasonic conditions. The effects of dyeing time, bath ratio, pH value of dyeing bath, dyeing temperature and mordants on K/S values were studied and the resulting color strength obtained by conventional and ultrasonic dyeing were compared. The ultraviolet (UV) transmittance of Buddleja officinalis dyed cotton fabric was also evaluated.
Findings
The color strength of the fabric dyed with Buddleja officinalis under ultrasonic conditions was higher than that under conventional conditions. Alum, Fe and Cu as simultaneous mordants improved the K/S value of the dyed cotton fabrics. Both washing fastness and rubbing fastness were fairly good in all Buddleja officinalis dyed cotton fabrics, washing fastness = 3–4 and rubbing fastness = 4. What’s more, the dyed cotton fabrics showed lower transmittance values as compared to undyed cotton fabrics and indicated potential UV protection capability.
Practical implications
Buddleja officinalis can be a new natural dye source for the ultrasonic dyeing of cotton fabric.
Originality/value
It is for the first time that Buddleja officinalis is used as a natural dye in cotton fabric dyeing with less water and the dyeing using ultrasound has been found to have an obvious improvement in the color strength and color-fastness.
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Junling Wu, Longfei Sun and Long Lin
This study aims to dye silk with natural pigments extract of Coreopsis tinctoria, by treating the fabrics with appropriate mordant under suitable dyeing conditions, to achieve…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to dye silk with natural pigments extract of Coreopsis tinctoria, by treating the fabrics with appropriate mordant under suitable dyeing conditions, to achieve good dyeing depth, fastness and ultraviolet (UV) protection.
Design/methodology/approach
Firstly, single factor experiments were used to determine the basic dyeing conditions of Coreopsis tinctoria. The optimal process conditions for direct dyeing were determined through orthogonal experiments. After that, the dyeing with mordant was used. Based on the previously determined optimal process conditions, silk fabrics were dyed with different mordanting methods, with different mordants and mordant dosages. The dyeing results were compared, in terms of the K/S values of the dyed fabrics, to determine the most appropriate dyeing conditions with mordant.
Findings
The extract of Coreopsis tinctoria can dye silk fabrics satisfactorily. Good dyeing depth and fastness can be obtained by using suitable dyeing methods and dyeing conditions, especially when using the natural mordant pomegranate rind and the rare earth mordant neodymium oxide. The silk fabrics dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria have good UV resistance, which allows a desirable finishing effect to be achieved while dyeing, using a safe and environmentally friendly method.
Research limitations/implications
The composition of Coreopsis tinctoria is complex, and the specific composition of colouring the silk fibre has not been determined. There are many factors that affect the dyeing experiment, which have an impact on the experimental results.
Practical implications
The results of this study may help expand the application of Coreopsis tinctoria beyond medicine.
Originality/value
To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this paper is the first report on dyeing silk with the extract of Coreopsis tinctoria achieving good dyeing results. Its depth of staining and staining fastness were satisfactory. Optimum dyeing method and dyeing conditions have been identified. The fabric dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria has good UV protection effect, which is conducive to improving the application value of the dyeing fabric. The findings help offer a new direction for the application of medicinal plants in the eco-friendly dyeing of silk.
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Padma S. Vankar, Dhara Shukla, Samudrika Wijayapala and Asish Kumar Samanta
Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and…
Abstract
Purpose
Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and standardized dyeing techniques need to be adopted. Appropriate scientific techniques or procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and compatibility of selective natural dyes with minimal use of hazardous chemicals.
Design/methodology/approach
In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the study are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept.
Findings
Experiments showed that enzymatic treatment can give good colour strength to silk fabric using Rubia as a dye source and has good potential for commercial dyeing. It is a non-toxic dye. Use of enzymes were a deliberate attempt to avoid metal mordanting in silk dyeing, as it would make textile dyeing eco-friendlier. The order of reactivity of enzymes in one-step process was found to be protease > phytase > xylanase > amylase > pectinase. Similarly, for two-step dyeing process, the order of reactivity of enzymes observed was protease > amylase > xylanase = pectinase > phytase. Protease enzyme was the best option in both the cases. Overall, it can be concluded that in the case of enzymatic treatment, the two-step process was better in terms of larger K/S values, colour coordinate values and dye adherence.
Research limitations/implications
A new domain of room temperature dyeing technique has been introduced.
Originality/value
In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the research are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept. Overall, the ease of use for industrial application. Rubia dye from Sri Lanka has been used in conjunction with different enzymes to show that metal mordanting can be easily replaced by the use of eco-friendly and biodegradable enzymes. The most attractive feature of this study is the low-temperature dyeing at 30-40°C. For any dyeing house, this process can be easily adapted on jigger, winch or even in continuous padding machine. Good fastness properties and dye adherence have been the other highlights of this study.
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Scolastica Manyim, Ambrose Kipchumba Kiprop, Josphat Igadwa Mwasiagi, Cleophas Mecha Achisa and Mark Peter Odero
The majority of the synthetic dyes have been found to be non-biodegradable, toxic and carcinogenic. As a result, there has been a growing trend toward the use of natural dyes as…
Abstract
Purpose
The majority of the synthetic dyes have been found to be non-biodegradable, toxic and carcinogenic. As a result, there has been a growing trend toward the use of natural dyes as alternates to synthetic dyes. This shift calls for more research to come up with more sources of natural dyes to satisfy their increasing demand. Euclea divinorum plant has been used traditionally as a source of dye, however, its textile dyeing properties have not been studied. This study aims to determine the textile dyeing properties of E. divinorum extract.
Design/methodology/approach
Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum natural dye extract on the cotton fabric was done using response surface methodology (RSM). The combined effects of examined dyeing conditions on the relative color strength (K/S) were studied using a central composite experimental design. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to determine the significance of the statistical model generated for the study. Mordanting effects were measured using standard ISO wash, rub and lightfastness tests.
Findings
The optimum dyeing conditions were found to be 68 min, pH 3.3 and 82°C with color strength 0.609. Temperature and pH showed some interaction effects during the dyeing experiments. The predicted optimum K/S value was validated experimentally using the optimum conditions and was found to be in agreement with the experimental values. All the metallic mordants used enhanced the color strength and provided a variety of brown shades, therefore, a suitable alternative for the toxic synthetic dyes.
Originality/value
Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum dye on cotton using RSM and mordanting at optimal conditions has not been done elsewhere.
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