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Article
Publication date: 17 January 2020

Sajal Kumar Chattopadhyay and Bindu Venugopal

Most researchers have neglected the effect air-drag force on yarn tension during rotor spinning. This paper aims to study the effect of rotor air-vacuum pressure in conjunction…

Abstract

Purpose

Most researchers have neglected the effect air-drag force on yarn tension during rotor spinning. This paper aims to study the effect of rotor air-vacuum pressure in conjunction with opening roller speed and yarn linear density on the yarn tension generated during the rotor spinning, which has established their significant influences on both the mean and the peak tension.This is the first of one-of-a-kind experimental study being reported to demonstrate the influence of air-drag force on yarn tension during the rotor spinning under dynamic condition.

Design/methodology/approach

The dynamic measurements on yarn tension at the exit of the doffing tube were carried out by using an electronic capacitive yarn tension meter during rotor spinning. The derived experimental data were fitted into equations to construct the response equations and to work out the coefficients of multiple correlation between the data and the predicted equation for both the mean and the peak tension. Various surface plots were constructed by using those response surface equations, so as to study the effect of variables on yarn tension generated during the rotor spinning.

Findings

The study has established that the rotor vacuum is responsible in causing a change in yarn tension, it increases with the decrease in air-vacuum inside the rotor. The involvement of the opening roller speed in altering yarn tension during rotor spinning has been proved. As the opening roller speed changes, so does the air stream surrounding the opening roller speed with consequent alteration of the centrifugal force generated due to the rotation of the rotor. The centrifugal force and, hence, the yarn tension generated in the rotor will be simultaneously affected by both the rotor relative vacuum and the opening roller speed.

Research limitations/implications

This is a structured experimental study to verify the influence of air-drag force generated during rotor spinning on yarn tension. Very limited theoretical work has been carried out in this direction as reported in the introductory part of the paper. The result of the present study will encourage future researchers to revisit the theory on generation of air-drag force during rotor spinning and work out a new formula.

Practical implications

Next only to the conventional ring spinning system, the rotor spinning holds the second place in the share of global yarn production. Because of its advantage of lower cost of production and amenability to automation, the rotor spinning has gained acceptance in spun yarn production, particularly for spinning coarse and medium counts of yarns. Currently, it has acquired about 25 per cent share in the world’s spun yarn production. As many of the rotor machine variables significantly affect fibre configurations and, subsequently, the yarn properties by influencing the airflow characteristics inside the rotor unit, the study of yarn tension during rotor spinning and its analysis assumes a significance.

Social implications

Rotor spinning is a relatively new and faster method of conversion of discrete fibres into continuous staple yarn and, subsequently, various textiles and garments. Its yarn is distinct and a bit different compared to the conventional ring yarn. It has got wide acceptance in the market and fashion. As such, the spinning sector that converts fibres into yarns is an important industry world over, providing employment to many. Besides, being the basic operation in the fibre value chain, it supports many downstream activities, including human clothing and fashion. Thus, the research on rotor spinning, particularly the yarn engineering to produce better products will be helpful to strengthen and grow the textile value chain.

Originality/value

This is an original research study. The magnitude and the direction of the air drag on the yarn during rotor spinning is very difficult to assess. Thus, most researchers for the sake of simplicity in analysis have neglected its effect on yarn dynamics, but a few of them have taken note of it in their theoretical propositions. However, no experimental result has been reported so far in the literature, supporting the influence of such air-drag force on yarn tension in the rotor spinning. In fact, none of the above studies have considered the induced effect of centrifugal force caused because of the rotation of the opening roller on the airstream that flows from the transfer channel inlet into the rotor because of its partial vacuum, causing consequential effects on air-drag force and tension in the yarn inside the rotating rotor. This is the first of one-of-a-kind experimental study being reported to demonstrate the influence of air-drag force on yarn tension during the rotor spinning under dynamic condition.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 24 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 1994

Momir Nikolic, Janez Cerkvenik and Zoran Stjepanovic

Presents the mechanical models of ring, rotor and air‐jet staple yarn formation. The analysis of formation peculiarities has enabled the establishment of differences among them in…

Abstract

Presents the mechanical models of ring, rotor and air‐jet staple yarn formation. The analysis of formation peculiarities has enabled the establishment of differences among them in micro‐ and macrostructure as well as in their mechanical and physical properties. The comparison of yarn and fabric quality parameters will be very valuable for weavers, knitters, garment manufacturers, finishers and designers. Gives productivity, spinability and economic factors for ring spinning, OE‐rotor and air‐jet spinning processes.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 June 2024

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta, Şule Altun Kurtoğlu and Demet Yilmaz

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest…

Abstract

Purpose

Wool fiber is accepted as one of the natural and renewable sources and has been used in the apparel and textile industry since ancient times. However, wool fiber has the highest global warming potential value among conventional fibres due to its high land use and high methane gas generation. This study aimed to recycle the wool fabric wastes and also to create a mini eco-collection by using the produced yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

This manuscript aimed to evaluate the fabric wastes of a woolen fabric producer company. Fabric wastes were opened with two different opening systems and fiber properties were determined. First, conventional ring yarns were produced in the company’s own spinning mill by mixing the opened fibres with the long fiber wastes of the company. In addition, opening wastes were mixed with different fibres (polyester, long wool waste, and Tencel fibres) between 25% and 70% in the short-staple yarn spinning mill and used in the production of conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns. Most of the yarns contained waste fibres at 50%. Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained and fabric properties were examined. Also, a fabric collection was created. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was made for one of the selected yarns.

Findings

At the end of the study, it was determined that it was possible to produce yarn and fabric samples from fiber blends containing high waste fiber ratios beyond 50%. All the woven fabric samples produced from conventional ring and OE-rotor yarns gave higher breaking, tearing and stitch slip strength values in the weft and warp direction than limit quality values of the company. In addition, abrasion resistance and WIRA steam stability properties of the fabric samples were also sufficient. Environmental analysis of the recycling of the wastes showed a possible decrease of about 9940034.3 kg CO2e per year in the global warming potential. In addition, fiber raw material expenses reduced yarn production cost about 50% in case of opened fabric waste usage. However, due to insufficient pilling resistance results, it was decided to evaluate the woven fabrics for the product groups such as shawls and blankets, where pilling resistance is less sought.

Originality/value

The original aspects of the article can be summarized under two headings. First, there are limited studies on the evaluation of wool wastes compared to cotton and polyester fibres and the number of samples examined was limited. However, this study was quite comprehensive in terms of opening type (rag and tearing), spinning systems (long and short spinning processes), fiber blends (waste 100% and blends with polyester, long wool waste and Tencel fibres) and yarn counts (coarser and finer). Recycled and virgin yarns were used as a weft and warp yarn and a total of 270 woven fabric samples were obtained using different colour combinations and weave types. All processes from fabric waste to product production were followed and evaluated. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and cost analysis was also done. The second unique aspect is that the problem of a real wool company was handled by taking the waste of the woolen company and a collection was created for the customer group of the company. Production was made under real production conditions. Therefore, this study will provide important findings to the research field about recycling, sustainability etc.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 July 2021

Wardah Anam, Khurram Shehzad Akhtar, Faheem Ahmad, Abher Rasheed, Abher Rasheed, Muhammad Mohsin, Farooq Azam, Tehseen Ullah and Sheraz Ahmad

The purpose of this study was to produce yarns from three different spinning techniques, i.e.Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) ring spinning and rotor spinning. Those yarns were then…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to produce yarns from three different spinning techniques, i.e.Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) ring spinning and rotor spinning. Those yarns were then used to produce fabrics. Then, the effect of silicone softener on tactile comfort of fabric was investigated.

Design/methodology/approach

Three different yarns, i.e. Ring, Rotor and MVS yarns, were used to make fabrics using CCI sample loom which were then subjected to post treatments like desizing, scouring and bleaching. After the completion of the dyeing process, silicone-based softener was used to improve the hand feel of fabrics. The structures of three yarns were evaluated using Scanning electron microscopy. The fabrics were evaluated against compression, bending and surface properties using Kawabata evaluation system.

Findings

The fabric made of MVS yarn depicted more geometrical roughness, coefficient of friction and bending rigidity but less compressibility as compared to fabrics made with other yarns. It was observed that softener concentration has a direct relationship with thickness and bending rigidity of the fabric, and inverse relationship with coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness of the fabric.

Originality/value

MVS yarn has some superior properties over rotor and ring spun yarn like high production rates, high resistance to pilling, clear appearance and stability against deformation but has disadvantage that it has less compressibility. Therefore, softener is applied on the fabric, to address this issue, so that it could also be used for apparels application.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 51 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 2000

Yi Li and Lei Yao

The aim of this paper is to provide a statistical review of the Chinese denim industry, which covers the following topics: Chinese production and production capacity of denim…

Abstract

The aim of this paper is to provide a statistical review of the Chinese denim industry, which covers the following topics: Chinese production and production capacity of denim yarns, fabrics and apparels; Chinese domestic consumption of denim yarns, fabrics and apparels; Chinese denim export to the USA, EEC and Hong Kong; and finally the geographic distribution of the Chinese denim industry — yarn production, fabric production and apparel production.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 4 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 July 2018

Manik Bhowmick, Arup Kumar Rakshit and Sajal Kumar Chattopadhyay

Dref-3 friction spun core yarns produced using staple fibre yarn as the core, e.g. Jute core yarn wrapped with cotton fibre, have poorer mechanical properties compared to the core…

Abstract

Purpose

Dref-3 friction spun core yarns produced using staple fibre yarn as the core, e.g. Jute core yarn wrapped with cotton fibre, have poorer mechanical properties compared to the core yarn itself. The purpose of this study was to understand the structure of such yarns, that will lead to the optimization of fibre, machine and process variables for production of better quality yarn from the Dref-3/3000 machines.

Design/methodology/approach

The Dref spinning trials were conducted following a full factorial design with six variables, all with two operative levels. The Dref-3 friction spun yarn, in which the core is a plied, twisted ring yarn composed of cotton singles and the sheath, formed from the same cotton fibres making the singles, has been examined. The structures have also been studied by using the tracer fibre technique.

Findings

It was observed that rather than depending on the plied core yarn, the tensile properties of the Dref-3 yarn are significantly determined by the parameters those affect the constituent single yarn tensile properties, i.e. the amount of twist and its twist direction, yarn linear density and the sheath fibre proportion used during the Dref spinning in making the final yarn. Further, when the twist direction of single yarn, double yarn and the Dref spinning false twisting are in the same direction, the produced core-sheath yarn exhibits better tensile properties.

Practical implications

The understanding of the yarn structure will lead to optimized production of all staple fibre core Dref spun yarns.

Social implications

The research work may lead to utilization of coarse and harsh untapped natural fibres to the production of value-added textile products.

Originality/value

Though an earlier research has reported the effects of sheath fibre fineness and length on the tensile and bending properties of Dref-3 friction yarn, the present study is the first documented attempt using the tracer fibre technique to understand Dref-3 yarn structure with plied staple fibrous core.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 March 2018

Suchibrata Ray, Anindya Ghosh and Debamalya Banerjee

The use and importance of mélange yarn in apparel sector is increasing day by day. With the gradual increase in market share, achieving the desired quality level of mélange yarn…

Abstract

Purpose

The use and importance of mélange yarn in apparel sector is increasing day by day. With the gradual increase in market share, achieving the desired quality level of mélange yarn remains a challenge for yarn manufacturing industry. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of raw material (dyed fiber percentage in the mixing), important spinning process variable (yarn twist multiplier) and productivity (spindle rpm of ring frame) on properties of cotton mélange spun yarn.

Design/methodology/approach

Box and Behnken Design of experiment has been used to investigate the important yarn quality parameters like evenness, imperfection, hairiness, breaking strength and breaking elongation of blow room blended cotton mélange yarn. The quadratic regression model is used to derive the statistical inferences about sensitivity of the yarn quality parameters to the different process variables. The response surfaces are constructed for depicting the geometric representation of yarn quality parameters plotted as a function of process variables.

Findings

The study shows that shade depth and spindle speed have significant effects on the mélange yarn unevenness and imperfections. Mélange yarn strength and hairiness are significantly affected by shade depth and yarn twist multiplier (TM). Yarn elongation at break is only influenced by the spindle speed. A darker shade is responsible for higher yarn unevenness, imperfection, hairiness and lower yarn strength. A higher spindle speed is also liable for deterioration of yarn quality.

Practical implications

Many spinning industries are planning to convert their existing spindles from normal gray yarn production to mélange yarn manufacturing. The outcome of this study will lead to achieve better mélange yarn quality and productivity by the industry.

Originality/value

Research on mélange yarn is itself scant. This study is exclusively conducted to analyze the individual and interactive effect of various process parameters on the mélange yarn quality.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 March 2024

Georgy Sunny and T. Palani Rajan

The purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of the study is to optimize the blending ratio of Arecanut and cotton fibers to create yarn with the best quality for various applications, particularly home furnishings. The study aims to determine the effect of different blend ratios on the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn.

Design/methodology/approach

The study involves blending Arecanut and cotton fibers in various ratios (90:10, 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 and 10:90) at two different yarn counts (10/1 and 5/1). Various physical and mechanical properties of the blended yarn are analyzed, including unevenness, coefficient of mass variation (cvm%), imperfection, hairiness, breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work.

Findings

The research findings suggest that the blend ratio of 10:90 (10% cotton and 90% Arecanut fiber) produced the best results in terms of physical and mechanical properties for both yarn counts. This blend ratio resulted in reduced unevenness, cvm% and imperfection, while also exhibiting good mechanical properties such as breaking strength, elongation, tenacity and breaking work. The blend with a higher concentration of cotton generally showed better properties due to the coarseness of Arecanut fiber. As the goal of the study was to determine the best blend ratio that included the most Arecanut fiber based on its physical and mechanical properties, which is suitable for home furnishing applications, 75:25 Areca cotton blend ratio of yarn count 5/1 proved to be the best.

Research limitations/implications

The study acknowledges that Arecanut fiber must be blended with other commercially used fibers like cotton due to its coarseness. While the study provides insights into optimizing blend ratios for home furnishings and packaging, further research may be needed to make the material suitable for clothing applications.

Practical implications

The research has practical implications for industries interested in utilizing Arecanut and cotton blends for various applications, such as home furnishings and packaging materials. It suggests that specific blend ratios can result in yarn with desirable properties for these purposes.

Social implications

The study mentions that the increased use of Arecanut fibers can benefit the growers of Arecanut, potentially providing economic opportunities for communities engaged in Arecanut farming.

Originality/value

The research explores the utilization of Arecanut fibers, an underutilized resource, in combination with cotton to create sustainable yarn. It assesses various blend ratios and their impact on yarn properties, contributing to the understanding of eco-friendly textile materials.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 December 2022

Prapti Behera, Sanjukta Aravind and Balaji Seetharaman

Bales of cotton run through the gins and textile mill instruments, stick to them and make it cumbersome for the ginning mill workers. This is so because more time and money have…

Abstract

Purpose

Bales of cotton run through the gins and textile mill instruments, stick to them and make it cumbersome for the ginning mill workers. This is so because more time and money have to be invested in cleaning these instruments. The stickiness of cotton causes health hazards to the workers, decreases the yarn quality and economic loss to the textile industry. The effect of cotton stickiness on textile ginning, various methods for cotton stickiness detection and the steps for reduction are discussed.

Design/methodology/approach

The different methods that are available for detecting and measuring cotton stickiness are described. The sugars that cause stickiness are either of plant origin (physiological sugars) or from the feeding insects (entomological origin). The methods for stickiness detection and reduction are discussed under physical, chemical and biological categories.

Findings

This review suggests possible ways to mitigate cotton stickiness.

Originality/value

One of the major issues of the textile industry is honeydew-contaminated cotton stickiness. However, there are few papers on detection methods for analyzing honeydew cotton stickiness along with the approaches to reduce stickiness. This paper summarizes different methods along with a study for detection as well as reduction of cotton stickiness.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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