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1 – 10 of over 4000Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk
This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).
Design/methodology/approach
Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.
Findings
It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.
Practical implications
The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.
Originality/value
This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.
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Xuan Luo, Gaoming Jiang and Honglian Cong
A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related…
Abstract
Purpose
A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related to the dimensions of the knitting machine and needles. The paper aims to discuss these issues.
Design/methodology/approach
Based on the parameters of the needle bar flat knitting machine, the sweater is modeled with five basic structures. The mathematical expression of each basic structure can be derived with corresponding parameters under some consumptions. In following, the predictive weight of the sweater can be formulated with the expression of the length of the basic structures and the linear density of the yarn.
Findings
To evaluate the performance of the proposed scheme, experiments of three types of sweaters on four different knitting machines are carried out. The results show that the proposed method can achieve the performance with the bias values by percentage ranging from −1.54 to −2.84 percent.
Research limitations/implications
Due to the present limited research, more experiments could not be carried out. To improve the performance and robustness of the proposed method, statistical performance measures such as the statistical mean and variance in massive experiments will be studied in the further research.
Practical implications
The evaluation of the material consumption can be obtained before it is knitted with the known basic parameters related to the machine and yarn.
Originality/value
This paper derives the general expressions of five basic structures based on the corresponding parameters of knitting machine. The predictive weight of the sweater is expressed according to the above basic structures before the sweater is knitted.
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Natalie Ishmael, Anura Fernando, Sonja Andrew and Lindsey Waterton Taylor
This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of combining yarn interlocking with yarn interlooping.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper describes the key textile technologies used for composite manufacture: braiding, weaving and knitting. The various textile preforming methods are suited to different applications; their capabilities and end performance characteristics are analysed.
Findings
Such preforms are used in composites in a wide range of industries, from aerospace to medical and automotive to civil engineering. The paper highlights how the use of knitting technology for preform manufacture has gained wider acceptance due to its flexibility in design and shaping capabilities. The tensile properties of glass fibre knit structures containing inlay yarns interlocked between knitted loops are given, highlighting the importance of reinforcement yarns.
Originality/value
The future trends of reinforcement yarns in knitted structures for improved tensile properties are discussed, with initial experimental data.
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Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya and Marzhan Kalmakhanova
This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.
Findings
It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.
Originality/value
It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.
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Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi
Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…
Abstract
Purpose
Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.
Findings
The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.
Originality/value
The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.
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Laima Muraliene and Daiva Mikucioniene
Air permeability has a valuable role in comfort parameters. It is known that air permeability of elastomeric yarns is firmly low. Despite that, usage of elastomeric inlay-yarns is…
Abstract
Purpose
Air permeability has a valuable role in comfort parameters. It is known that air permeability of elastomeric yarns is firmly low. Despite that, usage of elastomeric inlay-yarns is the most common and the most effective way to generate compression for knitted textile. This study aims to investigate the influence of elastomeric inlay-yarn linear density, insertion density and elongation of the sample to the air permeability of compression knitted materials.
Design/methodology/approach
Two different types of knitting patterns were investigated: rib 1 × 1 pattern with different elastomeric inlay-yarn linear density (four variants) and insertion density (without inlay yarn and with inlay-yarns inserted into every single, second or fourth course) and combined laid-in jacquard pattern. The air permeability test for these structures was performed without any deformation and at 10 and 20 per cent fixed transverse elongation.
Findings
According to the investigation, insertion density of inlay-yarns has a huge impact on air permeability; however, air permeability of knitted material is not linearly proportional to the total amount of inlay-yarns. Also, it was found that air permeability increases by increasing elongation, regardless of knitting pattern and total amount of elastomeric inlay-yarn in the knitted structure. Alteration of the loop geometry at natural state and 20 per cent fixed elongation was established, and the increase of air permeability at fixed elongation may be dependent on changes of knitted material porosity.
Originality/value
According to the obtained results, recommendations to perform air permeability measurement at least with minimal specific wear elongation are presented.
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Fei Sun, Haisang Liu, Yuqin Din, Honglian Cong and Zhijia Dong
The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be skin-tight and less exposed, reducing production processes and increasing productivity. Study its electrical conductivity in different yarn materials, knit processes and deformation ranges. The analysis is compared to provide some basis for the design of the electrodes.
Design/methodology/approach
The method includes five operations: (1) Analysis of the morphological appearance, tensile variation, fiber material properties and electrical conductivity of high-elastic and filament silver-plated conductive yarns. (2) Based on the knitting process of the floating yarn structure, three-dimensional modeling of the flexible sensor was carried out to explore the influence of knitting process changes on appearance characteristics. (3) The fabric samples are knitted by different silver-plated conductive yarns with different structures. Processing of experimental samples to finished size by advance shrinkage. (4) Measure the resistance of the experimental sample after the machine has been lowered and after pre-shrinking. Use the stretching machine to simulate a wearing experiment and measure the change in resistance of the sample in the 0–15% stretching range. (5) Analyze the influence factors on the conductive performance of the flexible sensor to determine whether it is suitable for textile flexible sensors.
Findings
For the float knitted flexible sensors, the floating wire projection is influenced by the elasticity of the fabric and the length of the floating wire. Compared to the plain knitted flexible sensors, it has less resistance variation and better electrical properties, making it suitable for making electrodes for textile structures. In addition, the knitting method is integrated with the intelligent monitoring clothing, which saves the process for the integration of the flexible sensor, realizes positioning and fixed-point knitting.
Practical implications
The sensor technology of the designed weft-knitted float structure is varied and can be freely combined and designed in a wide range. Within the good electrical conductivity, the flexible sensor can realize integrated knitting, positioning monitoring, integrating into the appearance of clothing. It can also focus on the wearing experience of wearable products so that the appearance of the monitoring clothing is close to the clothes we wear in our daily life.
Originality/value
In this paper, an integrated positioning knitting flexible sensor based on the weft knitting float structure is studied. The improved knitting process allows the sensing contact surface to be close to the skin and reduces the integration process. The relationship between the exposure of the silver-plated yarn on the clothing surface and the electrical conductivity is analyzed. Within a certain conductive performance, reduces the exposed area of the conductive yarn on the clothing surface and proposes a design reference for the flexible sensor appearance.
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Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong
Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…
Abstract
Purpose
Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.
Design/methodology/approach
Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.
Findings
On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.
Originality/value
In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.
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The purpose of this paper is to develop mathematical relationships to calculate the loop length to knit compact plain knitted fabrics and to validate the model using the fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to develop mathematical relationships to calculate the loop length to knit compact plain knitted fabrics and to validate the model using the fabric parameters of commercial fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
Ellipse defines the shape of the head of a knitted loop and straight lines define the arms of a knitted loop. The mathematical relationships developed relate the yarn count to the loop length of compact knitted fabrics. The experimental data and the data from previous similar research validate the accuracy of the mathematical model.
Findings
The model can calculate loop lengths to knit compact plain knitted fabrics in terms of thickness of the yarn and the coefficient defined to express the ratio of minor axis to major axis of the ellipse that defines the shape of the head of the loop. The mathematical model can deliver several loop lengths to produce compact plain knitted fabrics for different values of this coefficient. For commercial fabrics the error of the model was 0.53%.
Originality/value
The present model defines the head of the loop as an ellipse. The uniqueness of the present model is that several ellipses can exist for any given yarn thickness for a range of values assigned to the minor axis of the ellipse. The accuracy of the model against experimental data ascertains that the model is closer to the reality for commercial fabrics and proves the uniqueness of the model. Further, this model is an ideal and a simple model to introduce knitted loop configurations in teaching knitted fabric geometry.
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Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang and Zhijia Dong
The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its…
Abstract
Purpose
The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.
Design/methodology/approach
This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.
Findings
A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).
Originality/value
Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.
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