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An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of trial and error in the traditional pattern generation methods, we developed a new direct pattern generation method using body‐garment shape matching process. In this method, we first generated a body model using three‐dimensionally measured anthropometric data and transformed it to have a convex shape similar to that of a commonly used dummy model in garment design process. Then a typical garment model has been defined by measuring the surface information of a dummy model using stereoscopy and adjusting its shape considering the geometrical constraints of the underlying body model to obtain the optimum fit garment patterns. Finally, we developed a pattern flattening algorithm that flattens the three‐dimensionally adjusted garment model into two‐dimensional patterns considering the anisotropic properties of the fabric to be used.

Body positivity movement empowered plus-size women globally to speak up boldly about their clothing needs. Retailers cannot satisfy this group with some classic style offerings anymore. By taking clue from existing literature, this study aims to identify clothing preferences and problems related to ready-made plus-size clothing in India. Although many past literature pointed out about poorly fitted and size unavailability issues worldwide, very few of them addressed about clothing style preferences.

A self-administered close-ended questionnaire was used to answer a set of objectives. A pilot study with 40 plus-size women was carried out to check the reliability and validity of the instrument. Four hundred subject's data were gathered from six Indian cities with a purpose of varied geographical importance. Statistical tests like binomial distribution was used to analyze fit-related problems of 12 bodily sites such as shoulder, upper arm, lower arm, bust, waist, stomach, abdomen, hip, thigh, lower leg, armhole and elbow, and frequency charts were used to examine Likert scale data of sizing problems. The choices of 12 clothing styles were mapped through four factors which affect the purchasing decision of a plus-size woman.

Poor-fitted clothes at 10 body sites out of the 12 reflected about the fit aspect of plus-size clothing in India. Findings associated to sizing issues like unavailability of trendy clothes in appropriate sizes, which also adorn Indian curvy figure, shows synonymy to the worldwide researcher's findings related to sizing chaos. Classic silhouettes like Straight Indian kurti, A-line dresses and regular-fit trousers were majorly preferred by women. Hiding body bulges was mostly preferred while purchasing loose-fitted garments, and fitted garments were preferred only if these suits to the curvy body proportion. Appropriate fit and size availability are always a prime requisite for this class of women.

The outcomes of research will help Indian retailers/manufacturers to update their patterns in order to provide desired fit. In this lacuna of standard size chart, the study will add value in the development of Indian plus-size women's size chart. The factor mapping with clothing preferences will be useful to reduce rejections and inventories.

A survey of 100 young women's body measurements was undertaken during 1992/93. The findings are the basis of Part 3, which aims to explain how size charts are developed for garments; to evaluate the measuring equipment used and to compare the size chart body measurements with those proportionally derived by traditional formulae. A size chart is the artificial dividing of a range of measurements which are concise and consistent. There are different types of size charts. Some are of body measurement for specific proportion and shape. Others are for garments including ease allowances which vary according to the garment style and type of fabric. Size charts can be developed in three stages commencing with the raw survey data, which is then rounded to the nearest 1.0 cm or 0.5 cm and finally ease allowance is added for the finished garment. During the survey some measurements were repeated using different measuring equipment so that a comparison could be made to select the most suitable for pattern construction. The use of the anthropometer is limited as it can only take linear measurements. However, it is helpful when analysing body proportion, whereas the tape measures attached to the harness and a metal tape measure can record the contour surface of the body, which is more appropriate for clothing. The adjustable square and angle were a little difficult to position correctly but were useful to check the formulae used for pattern construction. A comparison is made between the survey body measurements and traditional formula to derive body measurements which are difficult to take. The dividing of the height by eight heads is useful for length proportions. The derived neck shape and survey measurements were comparable. Head measurements suitable for hoods were similar for all bust and neck sizes. Only the height showed any progression in size. This concludes the three articles which explain the taking of body measurements, methods of analysing the data and applying it to clothing pattern construction. It is hoped that this will aid those in industry and education who wish to undertake research and to develop new technology.

This chapter investigates the need to focus on the gap between the pure quantification of the body, expressed by robotic implants, and recent research aiming to recover qualitative aspects of touch, such as sensation. The solution proposed is to analyse new implant technologies with a stereoscopic vision that is able to consider sensation both as intensity of neural signals and as something that we feel. The central question is: what is the value of introducing qualitative analysis into typically quantified robotics research, governed by data?

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

Participants representing Misses sizes 6‐20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit‐to‐shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit‐to‐shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis.

Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit‐to‐shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small.

This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6‐20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges.

Multiple fit modes are needed in a range of more than five sizes. The fit model should be at the middle of a sizing group that does not range more than two sizes up or down.

There are few studies on apparel grading that test fit of actual garments on the body. The analysis documents the real growth of the body across the size range and suggests that changes in body measurements and shape determine the fit of a garment. These findings impact future research in apparel and the practices of apparel manufacturers.

The overall performance of an aerial vehicle strongly depends on the specifics of the propulsion system and its position relative to the other components. The purpose of paper is this factor can be characterized by changing several contributing parameters, such as distance from the ground, fuselage and wing as well as the nacelle outlet velocity and analyzing the aerodynamic performance.

Navier–Stokes equations are discretized in space using finite volume method. A KW-SST model is implemented to model the turbulence. The flow is assumed steady, single-phase, viscous, Newtonian and compressible. Accordingly, after validation and verification against experimental and numerical results of DLRF6 configuration, the location of the propulsion system relative to configuration body is examined.

At the nacelle outlet velocity of V/V_inf = 4, the optimal location identified in this study delivers 16% larger lift to drag ratio compared to the baseline configuration.

Altering the position of the propulsion system along the longitudinal direction does not have a noticeable effect on the vehicle performance.

Aerial vehicles including wing-in-ground effect vehicles require thrust to fly. Generating this necessary thrust for motion and acceleration is thoroughly affected by the vehicle aerodynamics. There is a lack of rigorous understanding of such topics owing to the immaturity of science in this area. Complexity and diversity of performance variables for a numerical solution and finding a logical connection between these parameters are among the related challenges.

The purpose of this paper is to set the groundwork for a new methodological movement. The author claims that methodological strategies must take as their object the laws with found sexual identity, or rather should be “fucking with” law by creatively confronting, occupying and agitating limiting ethical frameworks that control access to the field. The movement is ethnographic, since it finds research ethics and “straight” academic space to be where these rules are the most harmful in limiting access to the field, for female researchers, in particular.

The approach (but also to some extent the target) is on Deleuzian and post-Deleuzian’s philosophy, whose theoretical leaps have sought to shift and cause slippage in laws of sexual identity. However, when these laws are tested by researchers proposing to access the field, specifically ethnographically and autoethnographically, it is clear they have not “slipped” at all. This is clear through the questions raised by ethics committees. Fucking law, therefore, becomes a methodological movement intimately connecting ethical agendas and sex as an encounter in the field.

The author claims that the methodological movement of “fucking” law captures, or at least attempts to capture, the slipperiness of the body, the encounter, the research project and sex itself. The movement, “fucking law”, is essential in agitating and occupying the limiting institutional research agendas and their ethical frameworks.

The implications of “fucking law” will be necessarily unpredictable, but the main practical and connected social implication is questioning as to why more women are not practically questioning arguably one of the biggest questions: the ethics of sexuality. Fucking law argues for the questioning of these laws with bodies, and experimenting with philosophies which underpin and create institutional ethical rules.

This is the first work of its kind by a female autoethnographer challenging the ethics of sexuality, arising from a participatory field project. It also evaluates and confronts the ethics of the field as a whole: from the researcher herself, to her academic environment and sexual life, to the field itself and the writing up of the project.

The device, amplifies and sub-regionally transmits the current generated by the body temperature thermoelectric generator through a smart body temperature sensor.

The present study designs a wearable smart device regarding the relationship between temperature and emotion.

Experimental results show that the device can accurately detect changes in human body temperature under hilarious, fearful, soothing and angry emotions, so as to achieve changes in clothing colors, namely blue, red, green and brown.

Different areas of clothing produce controllable and intelligent color, so that adult emotions can be understood through changes in clothing colors, which is conducive to judging their moods and promoting social interaction.

The aim of this paper is to achieve a reasonable microclimate between clothing and the human body and optimize the custom dress pattern.

An interactive design method of 3D modeling, virtual try-on and heat transfer simulation are used. First, a 3D dress is designed with nonuniform rational B-splines curves and tried on virtually. After that, the heat transfer in the body-air-clothing microclimate and temperature distributions on the clothing surface are obtained. Based on the heat transfer in the body-air-clothing system, we design a method to improve the thermal comfort by optimizing the garment pattern digitally. Then, this paper utilized two heat transfer validating indexes to quantify the improvement of thermal comfort, and evaluate the modified model of dress.

The microclimate under the clothing is varied with the air gap distance, and the heat transfer on the area of the clavicle, bust point and front abandon are higher than other parts due to the narrow air gaps. In view of thermal comfort, the pattern optimization changes the distance ease and reforms the air circulating efficiency. The mean heat transfer and its standard variance are changing by about 10% and more than 20%. Thus, the heat transfer evaluation indexes are suitable to represent the heat transfer and thermal comfort in the microclimate system.

It can be concluded that the methodology proposed in this paper has the advantage of interactive design, 3D visualization and local heat transfer simulation. This technology meets the need of personalized customization and well-considered garment and has broad application prospects.

This study demonstrates that modifying the distance ease on body key girths based on heat transfer is a reliable way to improve thermal comfort. This method meets the consumers’ demand of the comfort of body-fit clothing under the condition of daily activities.

• 3D air gap distributions.

• Heat transfer varies with air gap distance.

• Thermal comfort can be improved by optimizing garment pattern.

3D air gap distributions.

Heat transfer varies with air gap distance.

Thermal comfort can be improved by optimizing garment pattern.

The electromagnetic fields have a great influence on the behaviour of all the living systems. The as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) principle imposes, in case of long exposures to low (i.e. power systems) or high frequency (i.e. microwave systems or cell phones) fields, some limitations to the radiated fields by the industrial equipment. On the other hand, some benefits can be taken from the effects of the electromagnetic fields on the living being: the hyperthermal technique is well known for the treatment of the cancer. Either we want to be protected from the fields, or we want to take benefit of the positive effects of these fields, all the effects thermal as well as genetic have to be well known. Like in any industrial application, the electromagnetic field computation allows a better knowledge of the phenomena, and an optimised design. Hence, there is a very important challenge for the techniques of computation of electromagnetic fields. The major difficulties that appear are: (1) related to the material properties – the “material” (the human body) has very unusual properties (magnetic permeability, electric permittivity, electric conductivity), these properties are not well known and depend on the activity of the person, and this material is an active material at the cell scale; (2) related to the coupling phenomena – the problem is actually a coupled problem: the thermal effect is one of the major effects and it is affected by the blood circulation; (3) related to the geometry – the geometry is complex and one has to take into account the environment. The problems that we have to face with are – the identification of the properties of the “material”, the coupled problem solution and the representation of the simulated phenomena.