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Article
Publication date: 22 March 2023

Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya and Marzhan Kalmakhanova

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.

Findings

It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.

Originality/value

It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

Originality/value

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 September 2017

Xuan Luo, Gaoming Jiang and Honglian Cong

A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related…

Abstract

Purpose

A method for predicting the material consumption of a sweater is presented before it is knitted. It can be achieved with the five basic models combined with the parameters related to the dimensions of the knitting machine and needles. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the parameters of the needle bar flat knitting machine, the sweater is modeled with five basic structures. The mathematical expression of each basic structure can be derived with corresponding parameters under some consumptions. In following, the predictive weight of the sweater can be formulated with the expression of the length of the basic structures and the linear density of the yarn.

Findings

To evaluate the performance of the proposed scheme, experiments of three types of sweaters on four different knitting machines are carried out. The results show that the proposed method can achieve the performance with the bias values by percentage ranging from −1.54 to −2.84 percent.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the present limited research, more experiments could not be carried out. To improve the performance and robustness of the proposed method, statistical performance measures such as the statistical mean and variance in massive experiments will be studied in the further research.

Practical implications

The evaluation of the material consumption can be obtained before it is knitted with the known basic parameters related to the machine and yarn.

Originality/value

This paper derives the general expressions of five basic structures based on the corresponding parameters of knitting machine. The predictive weight of the sweater is expressed according to the above basic structures before the sweater is knitted.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 January 2024

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang and Zhijia Dong

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its…

Abstract

Purpose

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.

Design/methodology/approach

This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.

Findings

A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).

Originality/value

Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1995

Darja Zunic Lojen

Presents the influence of seam length, normal stitching velocity of a sewing machine and a working method on stitching velocity of sewing. Results show that better stitching

200

Abstract

Presents the influence of seam length, normal stitching velocity of a sewing machine and a working method on stitching velocity of sewing. Results show that better stitching velocities of sewing are gained by longer length of seams and higher than normal stitching velocities of a sewing machine. Reveals the working method and type of feeding of material affect the achievement of higher stitching velocities.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 7 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2002

A. Charalambus

The geometry of interlacing with different stages and ways of greating are technically investigated. The theoretical lengthening of the fiber in the inclined stitches is defined…

Abstract

The geometry of interlacing with different stages and ways of greating are technically investigated. The theoretical lengthening of the fiber in the inclined stitches is defined by different conditions. Preconditions are searched, by which the values of this lengthening are within various limits and do not affect the quality of the used yarns and the ready knitting.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 September 2023

Bilian Cheng, Gaoming Jiang, Junjie Zhao and Bingxian Li

The purpose of this paper is to conveniently and accurately design partial knitting knitted fabrics based on matrix transformation.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to conveniently and accurately design partial knitting knitted fabrics based on matrix transformation.

Design/methodology/approach

Using mathematical modeling, the pattern diagram block matrix and process design matrix of partial knitting knitted fabrics are established, and the process knitting diagram with parameter information is generated. Based on the establishment of the mathematical model of the process knitting diagram, a loop deformation method based on three-dimensional (3D) coordinate point matrix transformation is proposed.

Findings

The matrix transformation method can provide a suitable deformed loop mode for partial knitting knitted fabrics and helps to generate a 3D modeling diagram conveniently.

Originality/value

This paper proposed a method of design and modeling of partial knitting knitted fabric based on matrix transformation. Taking the 3D modeling effect of conventional partial knitting as an example to test the modeling method, the results show that after matrix transformation, the loop model can realize the rapid transformation and calculation of the coordinates of the control point and generate a 3D modeling diagram.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 March 2023

Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan, Anita Rachel D., Sentilkumar C.B., Selvaraj Senthil Kumar, Senthil Kumar B. and Devaki E.

Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides…

Abstract

Purpose

Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths.

Findings

The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties.

Research limitations/implications

In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2003

Isao Ajiki and Ron Postle

The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in…

Abstract

The viscoelastic properties of the sewing thread before and after loading in the sewing process were investigated. Sewing threads are subjected to dynamic tension and friction in the sewing process. In order to compare polyester, cotton and silk sewing threads, the fineness of the threads were selected to be almost equal. There are some differences between the stress extension curves of the parent thread and the sewn thread except for the polyester sewing thread. The phenomenon of inverse relaxation occurs for high levels of retraction. The stress‐inverse relaxation index for the polyester sewing thread is larger than for other threads and the inverse relaxation for silk thread is small. From the creep curves, the sewn threads show higher secondary creep and lower instantaneous recovery than the parent threads.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 15 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 October 2010

Yongrong Wang, Peihua Zhang, Xunwei Feng and Yuan Yao

The paper aims to develop a system and measuring method for investigating the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garments.

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to develop a system and measuring method for investigating the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garments.

Design/methodology/approach

The dynamic pressure behavior measurement, realized by use of the self‐designed system, is a direct measuring method, which is based on a rigid hemisphere with five pressure sensors distributed on its surface. The dynamic pressure is measured over time under the process of fabric 3D deformation. The pressure distributions at the basic five sites are accepted as the measuring results. The dynamic stiffness index can be calculated from dynamic pressure profile and 3D deformation of compression garments.

Findings

The measuring system records the pressure‐time curve and pressure‐deformation curve. The dynamic pressure stiffness index expresses the change in pressure owing to the change in elongation of compression fabrics. The pressure measuring system and the index provide much information in the field of compression garment assessment.

Research limitations/implications

Another characteristic that was not mentioned but important is pressure hysteresis, which can give the information about pressure decay when fabrics undergoing repeated stretch and relaxation. The influence factors of hysteresis and its role in compression garments also requires further research.

Originality/value

To determine and characterize the dynamic pressure behavior of compression garment under 3D deformation, this study develops a measuring system and defines a new index. The measuring system can be used in scientific research institutes and factories, contribute to optimize process parameters and quality control of compression garment.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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