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This paper aims to develop a single regression model (instead of developing models separately for each thread type) to predict the sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester staple spun threads.

A single regression model is developed for predicting sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester threads. The polyester sewing threads have lower sewing thread consumption as compared to cotton threads because of their higher elongation behaviour. The model differentiates between the cotton and polyester sewing threads using their elongation values at peak levels of tensions experienced by the sewing threads during stitch tightening. By comparing the estimated thread consumption values with actual values, the effectiveness of model is evaluated with root mean square error and coefficient of determination (R²).

During the sewing process, by understanding the behaviour of different types of sewing threads, it is possible to develop a single regression model for all types of threads.

The sewing thread consumption can be easily calculated for cotton and polyester sewing threads using a single regression equation using the sewing assembly thickness, stitch density and elongation of thread at peak tension. The garment manufacturers need not depend on different charts for sewing thread consumption for stock management.

The sewing thread consumption is different for different types of threads, and garment manufacturers have to depend on different charts given by sewing thread manufacturers or use different equations for each type of threads. Using this single regression equation, sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester sewing thread can be estimated accurately.

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.

Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.

It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.

Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.

The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

Sewing thread plays an important role in transforming a two-dimensional fabric into three-dimensional garment. Over the years, ring spinning has been dominating the yarn market because of its consistent performance. Eli-Twist spinning system, a new method of yarn manufacture, provides a product with improved mechanical and physical properties than the conventional ring-spun yarn. It is the process of producing a two-ply compact yarn with improved fibre utilisation. The purpose of this paper is to assess the feasibility of using Eli-Twist yarn as a sewing thread and to compare its performance with conventional thread.

In this study, regular polyester and Indian cotton were used to produce the Eli-Twist and conventional TFO thread. Three different blends (100 per cent polyester, 50/50 polyester/cotton [P/C] and 100 per cent cotton) were taken to produce three different counts (39.4 tex, 29.5 tex and 23.6 tex) from each composition. The hairiness, tenacity, breaking elongation and coefficient of yarn-to-metal friction of threads were tested and a comparative analysis was made. The seam performance of all the threads was judged by seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation.

The results show that the mass irregularity and imperfections are more or less similar for both types of threads. Eli-Twist sewing thread has shown less friction, less hairiness and higher tensile strength. The Eli-Twist sewing thread was found to be better than the conventional two-ply sewing thread. The seam performance parameters, such as seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation of the Eli-Twist thread showed significantly improved performance.

The main concern of this study is delineating the performance of the Eli-Twist sewing thread. No study in this regard has been reported so far. The improved physical and mechanical behaviour of the Eli-Twist yarn has prompted to assess its performance as sewing thread.

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.

100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.

The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

Discusses reduction of thread strength as a cause of loading in sewing. Investigates measurements of dynamic loads of the thread during seam formation and reduction of thread strength after loading in sewing. Analysis of results shows that the reduction in thread strength after loading in sewing is a function of dynamic strains of the thread and frictional forces created therein.

Proposes an algorithm for the computation of maximum needle penetration force; it introduces the direct dependence of penetration force on fabric structural parameters and warp and weft geometrical and mechanical properties. Uses the approach to the simulation of local deformation of woven material which accounts for the thread resistance to crimp change and friction forces when the thread is shifted from its original position in the fabric structure as the result of its interaction with a needle. The resistance of threads to tension caused by a needle pushing them from their straight‐line paths is also accounted for. The resulting formulae give the dependence of needle penetration force for a plain‐woven fabric on the following parameters: needle diameter and surface angle; warp and weft spacing, dimensions, crimp height and bending rigidity; friction coefficients thread‐thread and thread‐needle. For a non‐plain‐woven fabric the linear dependence of penetration force on the fabric tightness is suggested. The comparison with the published and specially measured penetration force data proves the predictive ability of the model to be qualitatively accurate and quantitatively reasonable.

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Reports on investigations into the mechanism of sewing thread strength reduction. Results indicate that structural damage, namely, structural openness and pull‐out of fibre ends from the surface are the major cause of strength reduction and that the fibre strength reduction is found to be only marginal compared to the thread strength reduction. Cotton threads exhibit higher strength loss owing to their poor abrasion resistance. Comparatively shorter fibres in cotton threads are also found to be responsible for the higher strength reduction.

The goal of the research presented is to analyse seam strength properties of polyester and polyester‐polytetrafluoroethylene air‐jet textured sewing threads.

These threads are designed for sewing various garments and are manufactured by the Department of Textile Technology at Kaunas University of Technology. Manufacturing parameters are varied during air‐jet‐texturing, which includes air pressure, effect and core yarns overfeed. Tensile tests of sewing threads and seams strength tests are performed.

They indicate that the strength of seams depends on the properties of sewing threads.

Analysis of the seam strength of PES‐PTFE air‐jet‐textured sewing threads.