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Sewing thread plays an important role in transforming a two-dimensional fabric into three-dimensional garment. Over the years, ring spinning has been dominating the yarn market because of its consistent performance. Eli-Twist spinning system, a new method of yarn manufacture, provides a product with improved mechanical and physical properties than the conventional ring-spun yarn. It is the process of producing a two-ply compact yarn with improved fibre utilisation. The purpose of this paper is to assess the feasibility of using Eli-Twist yarn as a sewing thread and to compare its performance with conventional thread.

In this study, regular polyester and Indian cotton were used to produce the Eli-Twist and conventional TFO thread. Three different blends (100 per cent polyester, 50/50 polyester/cotton [P/C] and 100 per cent cotton) were taken to produce three different counts (39.4 tex, 29.5 tex and 23.6 tex) from each composition. The hairiness, tenacity, breaking elongation and coefficient of yarn-to-metal friction of threads were tested and a comparative analysis was made. The seam performance of all the threads was judged by seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation.

The results show that the mass irregularity and imperfections are more or less similar for both types of threads. Eli-Twist sewing thread has shown less friction, less hairiness and higher tensile strength. The Eli-Twist sewing thread was found to be better than the conventional two-ply sewing thread. The seam performance parameters, such as seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation of the Eli-Twist thread showed significantly improved performance.

The main concern of this study is delineating the performance of the Eli-Twist sewing thread. No study in this regard has been reported so far. The improved physical and mechanical behaviour of the Eli-Twist yarn has prompted to assess its performance as sewing thread.

Plans a wear simulation of assembled textile structures by sewing, basing the study on the submission of standardized seams carried out on 40 wool fabrics and blends containing wool to a series of 20 cycles of fatigue, including: washing, drying and submission to a static mechanical load under determined characteristics and steam ironing. Seams in the warp and weft directions were performed on. Examines the following parameters: fabric strength and elongation to break; seam strength and slippage; seam efficiency; seams’ opening limit and both the modulus at 1mm and at break, along the fatigue cycles. Analyses results obtained in function of the seam directions and fatigue cycles.

In Part 1 of this series of papers, we investigated the importance of fabric overfeed in the sewing operations during tailoring. It was also shown how fabric bending rigidity, formability, shear and hygral expansion are important in clothing manufacture. The present paper is concerned with the measurement and experimental study of seam balance, breaking elongation and bending properties of seams. The aim is to evaluate quantitatively the consumption of sewing thread and the relationship between the degree of fabric overfeed during sewing and the curvature of the seam in the garment. Balanced seams have much higher breaking elongation and more symmetrical bending properties than unbalanced seam structures. A natural curvature and curling couple result from fabric overfeed during sewing. The value of the curvature is time‐dependent because of fabric viscoelastic effect and also depends on the level of fabric overfeed, the tensile and longitudinal compressive module of the component fabrics and the structure of the seamed composite. The natural curvature of the seam may be derived quantitatively from the relative lengths of overfeed fabrics using a modified theory for a bimetallic themostatic strip.

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.

100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.

The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

This paper aims to define the dominating factors having influence on the quality of the seam by sewing of fine fabrics and their optimum values.

Ten factors defining a seam's quality are chosen on the base of literary research. There was a check for concurrence of specialists' opinions, as the Spearman's coefficient of concordance was determined. A designed experiment with variation of the first three of the arranged factors was made. Mathematical models for the tensile and the aesthetical properties of the seam were devised, and also optimization made.

A classification of the properties, defining seam's quality, is made. A cause‐effect diagram of Ishikawa with aiming parameter – quality of the seam – has been developed. On the basis of a survey the factors that have a great deal of influence on it are presented. Mathematical models for seam's strength, elongation and smoothness are produced by changing the following factors: straining of the upper thread, size of the needle and load on the pressing foot are worked out. Received models are optimized.

The research was conducted using a sewing‐machine class 301. Received results and conclusions refer to seams made from base material – fabric from PES and sewing thread from 100 percent PE.

Optimum values have been established for the straining of the upper thread, the size of the needle and the load on the pressing foot by sewing of fabric from synthetic silk with mass applicable machines, needles, and sewing threads.

The research has been done in several directions: systemizing the seam's properties for evaluation of its quality and the factors defining it, inquiry into the significance of the different factors and implementation of a designed experiment. Consultations were made with a broad circle of specialists and these results are given in visual systems (schemes and graphs).

Quality is an important aspect of the apparel manufacturing process. Although the basic quality of apparels mainly depends on the fabric properties, the type of thread used and selection of seams play an important role in determining the final quality of the apparel. Seam strength testing is basically an examination of the amount of pressure required to tear the seam of a garment. It is an essential parameter that determines the performance of a garment. For the perfect fit and look of a garment, seam strength has to be proper. It is therefore worthwhile to select the correct sewing thread size for good seam quality. The present work reports on an experimental investigation about the effect of different threads on the characteristics of leather. The other parameters, which are investigated, include seam strength, puckering and slippage.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties.

In this study, 100 percent polypropylene and 100 percent polyester spunbond and meltblown nonwoven fabrics were sewn by using ultrasonic sewing machine with different rollers which have two, three and four rows. Seam tensile properties of the sewn nonwoven fabrics were investigated. Four-Level Nested Anova Design was applied to the data by using Minitab 15 software program.

Higher seam strength values were obtained by using four rows roller, PP fiber, spunbond fabric and 50 g/m2 fabric area density for all nonwoven fabrics. Statistical significance was found between fabric area density, roller rows and seam tensile strength properties and between fabric type, roller rows and seam elongation at break values.

When the authors look at the studies related to ultrasonic sewing, several researchers studied on welding parameters of ultrasonic sewing but very limited studies were performed on assembling of nonwoven fabrics with ultrasonic sewing. Therefore effect of production methods of nonwoven fabrics on the properties of ultrasonic sewing such as seam strength and elongation at break should be investigated.

The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible.

This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.