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1 – 10 of over 2000Patrick C.L. Hui, Keith C.C. Chan, K.W. Yeung and Frency S.F. Ng
This paper aims to investigate the use of artificial neural networks (ANN) to predict the sewing performance of fabrics. The purpose of this study is to verify the ANN techniques…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to investigate the use of artificial neural networks (ANN) to predict the sewing performance of fabrics. The purpose of this study is to verify the ANN techniques that could be emulated as human decision in the prediction of sewing performance of fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
In order to verify the ANN techniques that could be emulated as human decision in the prediction of sewing performance of fabrics, 109 data sets of fabrics were tested by using fabric assurance by simple testing system and the sewing performance of each fabric's specimen was assessed by the domain experts. Of these 109 input‐output data pairs, 94 were used to train the proposed backpropagation (BP) neural network for the prediction of the unknown sewing performance of a given fabric, and 15 were used to test the proposed BP neural network.
Findings
After 10,000 iterations of training of BP neural network, the neural network converged to the minimum error level. The experimental results reveal the great potential of the proposed approach in predicting the sewing performance of fabrics for apparel production.
Originality/value
Generally, the fabric's performance in the manufacturing process is judged subjectively by the operators and/or their supervisors. Current methodologies of acquiring fabric property information and predicting fabric sewing performance are still incapable of providing a means for efficient planning and control for the sewing operation. Further, development of techniques to predict the sewing performance of fabric is essential for the current apparel production environment. In this paper, the use of ANN to predict the sewing performance of fabrics in garment manufacturing is investigated.
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Yaşar Erayman Yüksel and Yasemin Korkmaz
Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas…
Abstract
Purpose
Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.
Findings
The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.
Originality/value
As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.
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Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal
The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.
Design/methodology/approach
This section is not applicable for a review paper.
Findings
Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.
Originality/value
It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.
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Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.
Design/methodology/approach
This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.
Findings
The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.
Originality/value
The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.
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B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all…
Abstract
Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.
G. Sundaresan, K.R. Salhotra and P.K. Hari
The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size…
Abstract
The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn‐metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.
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G. Sundaresan, P.K. Hari and K.R. Salhotra
Reports on investigations into the mechanism of sewing thread strength reduction. Results indicate that structural damage, namely, structural openness and pull‐out of fibre ends…
Abstract
Reports on investigations into the mechanism of sewing thread strength reduction. Results indicate that structural damage, namely, structural openness and pull‐out of fibre ends from the surface are the major cause of strength reduction and that the fibre strength reduction is found to be only marginal compared to the thread strength reduction. Cotton threads exhibit higher strength loss owing to their poor abrasion resistance. Comparatively shorter fibres in cotton threads are also found to be responsible for the higher strength reduction.
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Milda Juciėnė and Vaida Dobilaitė
The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.
Abstract
Purpose
The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.
Design/methodology/approach
Seams pucker defect is specific to garment from lightweight fabrics, therefore the investigation was performed with this kind of fabrics. The structure and friction properties of fabrics were determined. The influence of rotational frequency of the main shaft (varied from 200 till 2,300 min−1) and pressing force (from 25 till 85 N) on seam pucker was analysed. The seam pucker was evaluated by characteristic of sharpness calculated as ratio of pucker height and length.
Findings
Analysis of the obtained results allows stating that pucker sharpness increases with growing rotational frequency of the main shaft and decreases, increasing pressing force. On the basis of correlation analysis, the relationship between proposed new indicator of seam pucker evaluation and parameters of sewing machine was sought. The obtained result demonstrates that in most cases the relative pucker coefficient is dependent upon rotational frequency of the main shaft: increasing rotational frequency also leads to higher pucker coefficient. The linear relationship between the pucker coefficient and pressing force was not observed.
Practical implications
This investigation has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper, results involved with evaluation of seam pucker are presented.
Originality/value
The research showed that in order to define seam pucker more comprehensive, it is necessary to evaluate not only ratio of pucker height and length, but also the quantity of puckers as well as their propagation. Considering to this, the new criterion for seam pucker evaluation was proposed.
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Engineered manufacturing of high quality garments has long been a target of textile technology. There are three main factors for manufacturing high quality garments. They are: the…
Abstract
Engineered manufacturing of high quality garments has long been a target of textile technology. There are three main factors for manufacturing high quality garments. They are: the selection of good fabrics for the garments; the process control of garment manufacturing; and the performance and correct adjustment of manufacturing machines such as sewing machines. In recent years, objective evaluation technology of fabric quality has been developed, and many researchers are now moving toward the engineered design of fabric quality based on this objective evaluation technology. The present authors are also conducting research on these three factors on the basis of the development of objective evaluation technology. This paper consists of two parts. The first part is a brief introduction about the investigation of the first and the second factors, which have been investigated by the authors. The second part presents our recent research on seam pucker problems. This problem is a machine‐materials interaction problem, and the mechanical properties of sewing thread and fabric are closely connected in this problem.
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The aim of this study is to investigate a mediation role of leadership over business performance and socioemotional wealth, within two Bosnian family businesses. This research…
Abstract
Purpose
The aim of this study is to investigate a mediation role of leadership over business performance and socioemotional wealth, within two Bosnian family businesses. This research purpose brings interesting highlights regarding how family businesses embedded the role of leadership that it might have a tremendous influence on business performance while tuning the socioemotional wealth.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on qualitative research methodology. The sample is collected based on a purposive sampling method as in most qualitative studies. As the instrument for data collection is concerned, in-person-semi-structured interview has been employed with the owner-manager of each particular-family firm. Thus, two case studies were conducted and analyzed.
Findings
The research contributes both to the theory and the practice. From the theoretical perspective, it contributes to the theoretical knowledge of leadership as an important role in relationship between the socioemotional wealth and business performance. The practical contribution of this research could be summed up in the sense that business owners should seek to employ positive leadership vibes to create a good socioemotional wealth so that would be positively reflected in overall business performance of a family business. Other findings are further discussed.
Originality/value
Scarce empirical research offers mixed results while theoretical propositions that organizational governance (leadership) plays an important role in this relationship, is somehow neglected. Hence, this is the first empirical study on this particular that investigates this topic in Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH), even in the Balkan region.
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