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Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Xinjin Liu and Xingfeng Wang

Spun silk is one of the top grade textile materials, and its products have high added value and meet the needs of the market. However, the technology level and process design of…

Abstract

Purpose

Spun silk is one of the top grade textile materials, and its products have high added value and meet the needs of the market. However, the technology level and process design of silk spinning are still much lower than cotton spinning; especially singeing is applied on spun silk yarn, and generates waste materials. The purpose of this paper is to introduce a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into silk spinning and study the corresponding spun yarn qualities.

Design/methodology/approach

First, taking the silk spinning frame FK501 as an example, the process of modification of FLCS is presented. Then, three kinds of spun silk yarns, 80 Nm (12.5tex), 100 Nm (10tex) and 120 Nm (8.3tex), are spun on the common silk spinning frame FK501 and the spinning frame modified with FLCS. The evenness, breaking strength and hairiness of spun yarns are tested and comparatively analyzed. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

Findings

The results show that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. Compared with the single spun silk yarn, the comprehensive qualities of the ply yarn are improved; especially, the breaking strength of the ply yarns is two times larger than the single yarn. After singeing, the hairiness of the ply yarn is decreased greatly, and the evenness is also improved, while the strength is decreased. Compared with ring spun silk yarn, the singeing times of compact spun silk yarn can be decreased, and the gas consumption in each singeing is also decreased, which is beneficial for material saving.

Originality/value

In this paper, a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, is introduced into the silk spinning. It is shown that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 1994

Momir Nikolic, Janez Cerkvenik and Zoran Stjepanovic

Presents the mechanical models of ring, rotor and air‐jet staple yarn formation. The analysis of formation peculiarities has enabled the establishment of differences among them in…

Abstract

Presents the mechanical models of ring, rotor and air‐jet staple yarn formation. The analysis of formation peculiarities has enabled the establishment of differences among them in micro‐ and macrostructure as well as in their mechanical and physical properties. The comparison of yarn and fabric quality parameters will be very valuable for weavers, knitters, garment manufacturers, finishers and designers. Gives productivity, spinability and economic factors for ring spinning, OE‐rotor and air‐jet spinning processes.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 November 2017

Zhou Rongmei and Qin Xiaoxuan

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

As one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.

Design/methodology/approach

First, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.

Findings

For the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.

Originality/value

In the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 August 2022

Gizem Karakan Günaydın

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of some selected production parameters such as core yarn type, sheath sliver type and total yarn count factors on core…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to provide an investigation about the effect of some selected production parameters such as core yarn type, sheath sliver type and total yarn count factors on core spun vortex yarns' evenness, imperfection and tensile properties. Hence it is aimed to contribute to the literature in vortex spinning where there are limited works related to core-spun vortex spinning.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper evaluates the effect of core yarn type, sheath sliver type and total yarn count factors on yarn evenness, imperfections, hairiness and tensile properties. Completely randomised three-factor analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted in order to evaluate the effect of core yarn type, sheath sliver type and linear yarn density on core spun vortex yarns' evenness, imperfection and tensile properties at significance level of 0.05. SNK tests were also performed for observing the means of each parameter. Correlation analysis was also conducted to reveal some relationships between yarn evenness and yarn tensile properties.

Findings

In this paper, significant factors related to some production parameters affecting the core-spun vortex yarns' evenness, imperfection, hairiness and tensile properties were found.

Originality/value

There are limited works related to effect of selected production parameters on yarn evenness, Imperfections and Tensile Properties of Hybrid Vortex Yarns.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 16 December 2019

Xuzhong Su, Xuzhong Su and Xinjin Liu

As one kind of filament/staple fiber composite yarn, core spun yarn has been widely used, especially on Jeans. However, there is only one filament in the commonly used core spun

189

Abstract

Purpose

As one kind of filament/staple fiber composite yarn, core spun yarn has been widely used, especially on Jeans. However, there is only one filament in the commonly used core spun yarn, such as spandex, and the performance of the one filament often is influenced during dyeing and finishing. Therefore, in the paper, twin-core spun yarns with two different filaments feeding simultaneously were spun on ring spinning frame modified by one kind of filament feeding numerical control device. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

Four kinds of twin-core spun yarns, cotton/spandex/PBT, cotton/spandex/CM800, cotton/spandex/T400, cotton/spandex/SPH with linear density 36.4tex/40D/50D were spun. For improving the covering effect of the two filaments, the filament feeding position, filament pre-drafting multiple, distance between two staple roving, designed twist factor of the core spun yarn were optimized.

Findings

It is shown that comparing with the core spun yarn, the breaking strength and elongation of the twin-core spun yarns are improved since the addition of another elastic filament, while the evenness is a little worse.

Originality/value

By using the twin-core spun yarns, corresponding knitted and woven fabrics are produced. Meanwhile, for simulating the dyeing and finishing process, the knitted fabrics were treated during the 150°C high temperature. It is shown that comparing with the fabrics produced by cotton/spandex yarn, addition of another elastic filament can improve the fabric strength and resistant and has positive effect on worsen prevention for high temperature treated fabric elastic recovery, and on change prevention during the dyeing and finishing process for fabric handle properties, and improves the fabric stability.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 January 2020

Wei Yanhong, Xinjin Liu, Xuzhong Su and Zhao Zhimin

In order to develop high shape retention yarn and investigate the effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on the shape retention of yarn, in this paper, three kinds of…

Abstract

Purpose

In order to develop high shape retention yarn and investigate the effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on the shape retention of yarn, in this paper, three kinds of yarns, JC/T400 18.5tex (55.6dtex) core-spun yarn, JC/T400 18.5tex (44.4dtex) core-spun yarn and JC18.5tex pure cotton yarn were spun by using the complete condensing Siro-spinning technology. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the core-spun yarns were spun by using the complete condensing spinning and Siro-spinning technology. Two key spinning processes, yarn twist factor and core yarn pre-draft ratio, were optimized by using the orthogonal test method first. Then, via the variable control method, the position of the core yarn, the position of the bell mouth and the center distance between two bell mouths were optimized, respectively, and corresponding optimal spinning process of the three yarns was determined. Finally, the yarns were spun under the optimal process, and the performance of the spun yarns was tested and compared.

Findings

Results show that the yarn twist factor affects yarn strength and hairiness, the position of bell mouth affects the evenness and hairiness of the yarn mainly, and the position of the core yarn affects the coverage and hairiness of the yarn. For the Z-twist spinning, the core yarn enters the front roller from the left side of two strands center, which is beneficial to improve the covering effect of core yarn, and reduce the pilling phenomenon of the yarn. The contents of core yarn affect indicators of the yarn shape retention, such as yarn strength, elastic recovery and abrasion resistance.

Originality/value

The shape retention of yarns affects the shape retention of fabrics, and the production of yarn with high shape retention is a key step in achieving shape retention of fabrics. At present, there are little studies on the shape retention of yarns, most researchers shave focused on shape retention of fabrics. Using the complete condensing Siro-spinning method to spin the core-spun yarn can improve the quality of the yarn. Compared with traditional ring-spinning yarns, the addition of the core yarn can improve the shape retention of the yarn.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 March 2020

Xinjin Liu, Xinxin Yan, Xuzhong Su and Juan Song

With the popularization of electronic products, the electromagnetic radiation pollution has been the fourth largest pollution after water, air and noise pollution. Therefore…

Abstract

Purpose

With the popularization of electronic products, the electromagnetic radiation pollution has been the fourth largest pollution after water, air and noise pollution. Therefore, electromagnetic shielding property of textiles is attracting more attention. In this paper, the properties of electromagnetic shielding yarns and fabrics were studied.

Design/methodology/approach

Ten kinds of yarn, stainless steel short fiber and polyester blend yarn with three different blending ratios T/S 90/10, T/S 80/20 and T/S 70/30, stainless steel short fiber, polyester and cotton blend yarn with blending ratio C/T/S 35/35/30, core-spun yarn with one 30 um stainless steel filament C/T28tex/S(30 um), core-spun yarn with two 15 um stainless steel filaments (C/T28tex/S(15 um)/S(15 um)), twin-core-spun yarn with one 30 um stainless steel filament and one 50D spandex filament C/T28tex/S(30 um)/SP(50D), sirofil wrapped yarn with one 30 um stainless steel filament feeding from left S(30 um)+C/T28tex, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 30 um stainless steel filament feeding from right C/T28tex+S(30 um), sirofil wrapped yarn with two 15 um stainless steel filaments feeding from two sides S(15 um)+C/T28tex+ S(15 um), were spun. The qualities of spun yarns were measured. Then, for analyzing the electromagnetic shielding properties of fabrics made of different spun yarns, 20 kinds of fabrics were woven.

Findings

The tested results show that comparing to the T/S 80/20 blend yarn, the resistivity of composite yarns with the same ratio of the stainless steel filament is smaller. The possible reason is that comparing to the stainless steel short fiber, the conductivity of stainless steel filament is better because of the continuous distribution of stainless steel in the filament. Comparing with the core-spun yarn, the conductivity of the sirofil wrapped yarn is a little better. Comparing to the fabric woven by the blend yarn, the electromagnetic shielding of the fabric woven by the composite yarn is better, and comparing to the fabric woven by the core-spun yarn, the electromagnetic shielding of the fabric woven by the sirofil yarn is a little better. The possible reason is that the conduction network can be produced by the stainless steel filament wrapped on the staple fiber yarn surface in the fabric, and the electromagnetic wave can be transmitted in the network.

Originality/value

In this paper, the properties of electromagnetic shielding yarns and fabrics were studied. Ten kinds of yarn, including three stainless steel short fiber and polyester blend yarns, one stainless steel short fiber, polyester and cotton blend yarn, two core-spun yarns, one twin-core-spun yarn, three sirofil wrapped yarn, were spun. Then, for analyzing the electromagnetic shielding properties of fabrics made of different spun yarns, 20 kinds of fabrics were woven. The effects of fabric warp and weft densities, fabric structures, yarn kinds, yarn distributions in the fabric on electromagnetic shielding were analyzed.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 July 2019

Juan Song, Xuzhong Su and Xinjin Liu

With the improvement of living standards and acceleration of working pace, the shape retention property of textiles has attracted more attention. Yarn spinning is the first…

Abstract

Purpose

With the improvement of living standards and acceleration of working pace, the shape retention property of textiles has attracted more attention. Yarn spinning is the first fundamental process in making textiles and apparel, and the properties of yarn influence the performance of textiles directly. Filament/staple fiber composite yarn is a kind of yarn spun by filament and staple fiber, and comprehensive qualities of yarn can be improved. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to study the shape retention properties of filament/staple fiber composite yarns and corresponding fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Four kinds of composite yarn, core-spun yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from left, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from right, sirofil wrapped yarn with two 25D SPH filaments feeding from two sides, were spun. The qualities of spun yarns were measured. Then, corresponding two kinds of twill fabrics were woven by core-spun yarn and sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments, respectively. The handle parameters, crease recovery, appearance leveling after washing, dimensional change rate after washing, strength and elongation and tensile elasticity were tested by using corresponding test instruments.

Findings

The tested results of spun yarn qualities show that comparing with the core-spun yarn, the evenness of sirofil wrapped yarn is improved, the hairiness is reduced, and the breaking strength and elongation are increased. Comparing with sirofil wrapped yarn with one filament, the evenness of sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments is improved. The measured results of fabrics properties show that under the same weaving process, comparing to the fabric woven by core-spun yarn, the dimension of fabric woven by sirofil wrapped yarn is small after desizing, and warp and weft density is large. The possible reason is that the shrinkage of the SPH filament outside the sirofil wrapped yarn happens after desizing, which also makes the dimensional change rate after washing of the corresponding fabric large, and crease recovery poor.

Originality/value

In the paper, for improving the shape retention properties of the pure cotton woven fabric, one kind of SPH filament was added to the woven fabric by spinning filament/staple fiber composite yarns. Four kinds of composite yarn, core-spun yarn with one 50D SPH filament, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from the left side, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from the right side, sirofil wrapped yarn with two 25D SPH filaments feeding from two sides, were spun. Two kinds of twill fabrics were weaving by core-spun yarn and sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments, respectively.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 March 2022

Abenezer Fikre Hailemariam and Nuredin Muhammed

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Yarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.

Findings

Denim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.

Originality/value

Both spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Xinjin Liu, Hong Zhang and Xuzhong Su

Pneumatic compact spinning is the most widely used compact spinning method at present, in which the negative pressure airflow is used to condense the fiber bundle and decrease the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pneumatic compact spinning is the most widely used compact spinning method at present, in which the negative pressure airflow is used to condense the fiber bundle and decrease the spinning triangle. Compact spinning with perforated drum and lattice apron are mainly two kinds of pneumatic compact spinning now. The purpose of this paper is to study the comparative analysis on four kinds of pneumatic compact spinning systems, including two kinds of compact spinning with perforated drum: Rieter’s COM4 and complete condensing spinning (CCS), two kinds of compact spinning with lattice apron: Sussen’s three-line compact spinning (TLCS) and Toyota’s four-line compact spinning (FLCS).

Design/methodology/approach

First, the basic properties of four systems were introduced and comparatively analyzed. Then, the 29.2 tex (20S), 14.6 tex (40S), 9.7 tex (60S) and 7.3 tex (80S) combed cotton yarns were spun in the four pneumatic compact spinning systems and ring spinning system, respectively. The evenness, breaking strength and hairiness of spun yarns were tested. Finally, the properties of corresponding woven fabric were tested.

Findings

It is shown that comparing to compact spinning with lattice apron, the disposable input cost of compact spinning with perforated drum is higher, but the maintenance cost is lower. Comparing to compact spinning with lattice apron, the evenness of yarn spun by compact spinning with perforated drum is improved whereas the breaking strength is decreased. Furthermore, although harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn spun by CCS is a little more, the beneficial short hairiness (1-2 mm) is also more, which can make the fabric fullness and have better comfortable feeling.

Originality/value

In the paper, comparative analysis on four kinds of pneumatic compact spinning systems, compact spinning with perforated drum: Rieter’s COM4 and CCS, and compact spinning with lattice apron: Sussen’s TLCS and Toyota’s FLCS, were studied. The basic properties, spun yarn qualities and properties of corresponding woven fabric of four systems were analyzed comparatively.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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