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Research on qualities of compact spun silk yarn

Xinjin Liu (School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China) (Jiangsu Susi Silk Co. Ltd, Suqian, China)
Xingfeng Wang (School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 18 April 2017

215

Abstract

Purpose

Spun silk is one of the top grade textile materials, and its products have high added value and meet the needs of the market. However, the technology level and process design of silk spinning are still much lower than cotton spinning; especially singeing is applied on spun silk yarn, and generates waste materials. The purpose of this paper is to introduce a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into silk spinning and study the corresponding spun yarn qualities.

Design/methodology/approach

First, taking the silk spinning frame FK501 as an example, the process of modification of FLCS is presented. Then, three kinds of spun silk yarns, 80 Nm (12.5tex), 100 Nm (10tex) and 120 Nm (8.3tex), are spun on the common silk spinning frame FK501 and the spinning frame modified with FLCS. The evenness, breaking strength and hairiness of spun yarns are tested and comparatively analyzed. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

Findings

The results show that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. Compared with the single spun silk yarn, the comprehensive qualities of the ply yarn are improved; especially, the breaking strength of the ply yarns is two times larger than the single yarn. After singeing, the hairiness of the ply yarn is decreased greatly, and the evenness is also improved, while the strength is decreased. Compared with ring spun silk yarn, the singeing times of compact spun silk yarn can be decreased, and the gas consumption in each singeing is also decreased, which is beneficial for material saving.

Originality/value

In this paper, a kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, is introduced into the silk spinning. It is shown that compared with ring spun silk yarns, the comprehensive quality of compact spun silk yarns is improved, especially the harmful long hairiness (=3 mm) of yarn. After the ply yarn production, three singeing procedures should be applied on the ring ply yarns, while only two singeing procedures should be applied on the compact ply yarns, which is beneficial for material saving.

Keywords

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province under Grant No. BK20151359) Prospective industry-university-research project of Jiangsu Province (BY2015019-10, BY2016022-27), Prospective industry-university-research project of Guangdong Province (2013B090600038), Class general financial grant from the china postdoctoral science foundation (2015M581722), Postdoctoral research funding program of Jiangsu Province (1501146B), Henan collaborative innovation of textile and clothing industry (hnfz14002), Foundation of Advanced Textile Engineering Technology Center of Jiangsu Province (XJFZ/2016/4).

Citation

Liu, X. and Wang, X. (2017), "Research on qualities of compact spun silk yarn", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 29 No. 2, pp. 238-250. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-05-2016-0055

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2017, Emerald Publishing Limited

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