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In recent times, the usage of elastane-containing denim garments has increased, as it provides fit and comfort both at the same time. The purpose of the study is to understand the effect of abrasion on the durability of comfort related to body movement and shape retention property of the stretch-denim fabric.

The paper investigates the effect of abrasion on the initial tensile properties, recovery and resilience properties of the stretch-denim fabric. Further, to analyse the effect of the composition of the elastane yarn, three different types of elastane yarns having different types of sheath (covering) fibre, structure and different levels of elastane content have been used in the weft.

The comfort related to body movement and the shape retention properties of the stretch-denim fabric got affected due to abrasive damage. The elastane yarn composition and structure played an important role in determining the extent of the change in such properties during abrasion. The fabric with a higher level of elastane content suffered a greater loss in shape-retention properties due to abrasion. The extent of mass loss in stretch-denim fabric does not always correlate to the extent of loss in the comfort and shape-retention properties.

Most of the earlier studies have investigated the effect of abrasion on the durability aspect of the stretch-denim fabric. In a practical scenario, the stretch-denim garments are rarely discarded due to tearing or change in appearance but mainly due to bagging, i.e. distortion in shape after usage. Thus, the study on the combined effect of the abrasion and cyclic loading on the comfort and shape-retention properties will help to predict the performance of the apparel during usage.

With the improvement of living standards and acceleration of working pace, the shape retention property of textiles has attracted more attention. Yarn spinning is the first fundamental process in making textiles and apparel, and the properties of yarn influence the performance of textiles directly. Filament/staple fiber composite yarn is a kind of yarn spun by filament and staple fiber, and comprehensive qualities of yarn can be improved. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to study the shape retention properties of filament/staple fiber composite yarns and corresponding fabrics.

Four kinds of composite yarn, core-spun yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from left, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from right, sirofil wrapped yarn with two 25D SPH filaments feeding from two sides, were spun. The qualities of spun yarns were measured. Then, corresponding two kinds of twill fabrics were woven by core-spun yarn and sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments, respectively. The handle parameters, crease recovery, appearance leveling after washing, dimensional change rate after washing, strength and elongation and tensile elasticity were tested by using corresponding test instruments.

The tested results of spun yarn qualities show that comparing with the core-spun yarn, the evenness of sirofil wrapped yarn is improved, the hairiness is reduced, and the breaking strength and elongation are increased. Comparing with sirofil wrapped yarn with one filament, the evenness of sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments is improved. The measured results of fabrics properties show that under the same weaving process, comparing to the fabric woven by core-spun yarn, the dimension of fabric woven by sirofil wrapped yarn is small after desizing, and warp and weft density is large. The possible reason is that the shrinkage of the SPH filament outside the sirofil wrapped yarn happens after desizing, which also makes the dimensional change rate after washing of the corresponding fabric large, and crease recovery poor.

In the paper, for improving the shape retention properties of the pure cotton woven fabric, one kind of SPH filament was added to the woven fabric by spinning filament/staple fiber composite yarns. Four kinds of composite yarn, core-spun yarn with one 50D SPH filament, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from the left side, sirofil wrapped yarn with one 50D SPH filament feeding from the right side, sirofil wrapped yarn with two 25D SPH filaments feeding from two sides, were spun. Two kinds of twill fabrics were weaving by core-spun yarn and sirofil wrapped yarn with two filaments, respectively.

The purpose of this paper is to improve the comfort and shaping function of seamless shapewear on the material and structure and develop new seamless shapewear products. The shaping figure effect will be verified as well.

The performance of the knitted fabrics made of Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) filament was analyzed by orthogonal experiment and fuzzy mathematical methods analysis, in order to get the optimal conditions for the best performance. The new products were designed and made based on the results of the material research with the consideration of the aesthetic requirements. The shaping effect of seamless shapewears on local and global figure was tested by the methods of the combination of subjective and objective evaluation.

The sample which renders the optimal performance for shapewear is the one with PTT filament as face yarn, nylon core-spun yarn as ground yarn and 3+1 simulate rib knit structure. The material of face yarn, mixed proportion and structure can influence the shape retention, appearance and comfort of PTT fabric in various degrees. Three shapewears which were developed according to the results of material research have different shaping effect. And women with different figures put different satisfaction degrees on each shapewear’s shaping effect.

This paper provides scientific basis and reference for enterprise to design good tight seamless shapewear as well as for consumer to buy suitable products.

In the view of the problems of present shapewears, this paper completed the development of the shapewears and verified the shaping effect of them on women with different figures. The shapewears can be put into production directly.

The purpose of this paper is to highlight the one bath dyeing method for polyester/wool (PES/Wo) blend fabric with two different semi-synthetic azo dyes developed by chemically modifying the outer skin of Allium cepa.

Chemical modification is the most heartening way to impart improved properties to natural sources. Two different primary amines were coupled with the Allium cepa skin extract by a diazo coupling reaction. Synthesised dyes were characterized for their percentage yield, solubility tests, melting point, particle size analysis as well as FTIR spectroscopy and UV-Visible analysis. One bath dyeing methodology was used for application of synthesized dyes on PES/Wo blend fabric. Dyeing was performed at boil without any additional auxiliary and further percentage dye exhaustion was evaluated.

Dyeing yielded solid shade on PES/Wo blend fabric with satisfactory levelness in dyeing. The efficacy of synthesized dyes for dyeing of PES/Wo fabric was studied by wash, rub, light and sublimation fastness properties, which are in good agreement with commercial requirements. The antimicrobial activity of the synthesized dyes shows excellent activity in dye powder form (AATCC 147 test method) as well as on dyed fabrics (AATCC 100 test method).

Present research work is a first successful attempt to dye PES/Wo blend fabric with semi-synthetic azo dyes in single bath at boil. Such approach facilitates minimum consumption of energy, cost and time.

The length and width shrinkages, skewness, spirality and moisture content of three weft knitted cotton structures, plain single jersey, interlock and lacoste, were determined at regular intervals during tumble drying. Significant length and width shrinkages occurred in all three structures with the amount of shrinkage increasing rapidly in plain single jersey and lacoste as their moisture contents fell below 30 per cent. Distortion was less affected by tumble drying. An attempt was made to isolate the effects of heat and agitation during tumble drying. It has been demonstrated that similar patterns of shrinkage and distortion occur whether heat is applied during tumble drying or not. The tumbling action in a tumble drier has the greatest influence on the dimensional stability and distortion of weft knitted cotton fabrics.

In order to develop high shape retention yarn and investigate the effects of spinning process and core yarn contents on the shape retention of yarn, in this paper, three kinds of yarns, JC/T400 18.5tex (55.6dtex) core-spun yarn, JC/T400 18.5tex (44.4dtex) core-spun yarn and JC18.5tex pure cotton yarn were spun by using the complete condensing Siro-spinning technology. The paper aims to discuss these issues.

In this paper, the core-spun yarns were spun by using the complete condensing spinning and Siro-spinning technology. Two key spinning processes, yarn twist factor and core yarn pre-draft ratio, were optimized by using the orthogonal test method first. Then, via the variable control method, the position of the core yarn, the position of the bell mouth and the center distance between two bell mouths were optimized, respectively, and corresponding optimal spinning process of the three yarns was determined. Finally, the yarns were spun under the optimal process, and the performance of the spun yarns was tested and compared.

Results show that the yarn twist factor affects yarn strength and hairiness, the position of bell mouth affects the evenness and hairiness of the yarn mainly, and the position of the core yarn affects the coverage and hairiness of the yarn. For the Z-twist spinning, the core yarn enters the front roller from the left side of two strands center, which is beneficial to improve the covering effect of core yarn, and reduce the pilling phenomenon of the yarn. The contents of core yarn affect indicators of the yarn shape retention, such as yarn strength, elastic recovery and abrasion resistance.

The shape retention of yarns affects the shape retention of fabrics, and the production of yarn with high shape retention is a key step in achieving shape retention of fabrics. At present, there are little studies on the shape retention of yarns, most researchers shave focused on shape retention of fabrics. Using the complete condensing Siro-spinning method to spin the core-spun yarn can improve the quality of the yarn. Compared with traditional ring-spinning yarns, the addition of the core yarn can improve the shape retention of the yarn.

Reports on tests in which barium metaborate pigment and its modified form are prepared, identified by chemical and X‐ray diffraction methods, and specified according to standard methods. Evaluates the modified barium metaborate as a new filler for paper making by carrying out two series of experiments. Details the results which showed that the efficiency of the filler retention when using modified barium metaborate was higher than that of the other two conventional fillers. Reveals that at relatively low filler addition (2–5 percentage weight), higher improvement in the strength properties can be obtained when using the modified pigment instead of titanium dioxide and kaolin, but observes the reverse (i.e. a detrimental effect) at relatively high filler addition (8–10 percentage weight). Discovers that the optical properties of the modified pigment‐loaded sheets lie between those of titanium dioxide and kaolin. Shows that blending barium metaborate with kaolin or titanium dioxide has a significant effect on strength properties rather than optical properties. Concludes that modified barium metaborate pigment can be successfully used in paper filling applications and that modified barium metaborate pigment‐kaolin blend (80/20 per cent) can be used instead of titanium dioxide as a paper filler.

This work aims to present a guideline for ink development used in extrusion-based direct-write (DW) (also referred to as direct-print [DP]) technique and combine the extrusion with instant photopolymerization to present a solvent-free DP photopolymerization (DPP) method to fill the gap between 3D printing and printing multi-functional 3D structures.

A DP process called DPP was developed by integration of a screw-driven micro-dispenser into XYZ translation stages. The process was equipped with direct photopolymerization to facilitate the creation of 3D structures. The required characteristics of inks used in this technique were simulated through dispersion of fumed silica particles into photocurable resins to transform them into viscoelastic inks. The characterization method of these inks and the required level of shear thinning and thixotropic properties is presented.

Shear thinning and thixotropic properties are necessary components of the inks used in DPP process and other DP techniques. These properties are desirable to facilitate printing and filament shape retention. Extrusion of viscoelastic inks out of a nozzle generates a filament capable of retaining its geometry. Likewise, instant photopolymerization of the dispensed filaments prevents deformation due to the weight of filaments or accumulated weight of layers.

The DPP process with material-reforming methods has been shown, where there remain many shortcomings in realizing a DP-based 3D printing process with instant photopolymerization in existing literature, as well as a standard guideline and material requirements. The suggested method can be extended to develop a new commercial 3D printing system and printable inks to create various functional 3D structures including sensors, actuators and electronics, where nanoparticles are involved for their functionalities. Particularly, an original contribution to the determination of a rheological property of an ink is provided.

To investigate consumers’ perceptions of appearance and handle of the chest area and the lapel in men’s tailored jackets, both objective measurement using FAST and subjective assessment utilising semi‐structured interview were employed. It was found that objective measurement provides insufficient information to predict the tailorability if reliance is placed purely upon properties obtained from shell fabrics. Use of the fabric and interlining laminates, however, provides better prediction of tailorability, especially those aspects associated with appearance and shape retention. It was also found that objective measurement results do not agree with the subjective assessment results, particularly with regard to the subjective assessment of the female interviewees. It is suggested that thought should be given to devising a method of evaluating objective measurement results suitable to fabric and interlining laminates that can also take account of market trends directly related to consumer perception.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of layer thickness and post-curing temperature on shape memory properties in components manufactured by stereolithography.

Layer thicknesses of 20 and 100 µm and 22 and 45°C for post-curing temperature were selected following the design of experiments approach. Tensile and bending tests were applied for quantitative evaluation of the shape memory effect (SME). Qualitative analysis was performed using complex geometries and computed tomography as a measurement tool. Additionally, the degree of photopolymerization and glass transition temperature (T_g) were evaluated.

The tensile test resulted in fixity and recovery ratio values close to 100%. In bending, they varied between 97%–111% for fixity and 88%–95% for recovery. The layer thickness was found to have a higher influence on the SME. In complex structures, SME was dependent on geometry and less sensitive to variation in process parameters. The post-curing temperature had a higher influence on the photopolymerization and T_g. Average T_g of 77.5°C was achieved at 45°C, compared to 73.1°C at 22°C.

In the current state of the art in the processing of shape memory polymers with vat photopolymerization typically, the chemical composition or the thermal and deformation patterns are studied. The effect of the processing parameters is, however, not explored. This paper aims to close the research gap and facilitate the process optimization towards high fixing and recovery characteristics.