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Article
Publication date: 19 January 2023

Abolfazl Zare

This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min−1 and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method.

Findings

Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin.

Originality/value

Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 December 2020

Chung-haur Howard Lo

Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by…

Abstract

Purpose

Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process. Currently, most dye houses use sodium hydrosulfite (Na2S2O4) and alkali (NaOH) as the substances for providing hydrogen as a reducing agent. Since the sodium hydroxide by-products are acidic, they may damage equipment in the dye houses, generate air pollution in working environment. The other problems associated with the use of sodium hydrosulfite are the cost and instability with low storage.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper is based on continuing improvements to the commercialization of the raw materials via the innovative degumming process elaborated in the author’s previous study: “Degumming of Silk Fibers by CO2 Supercritical Fluid.” The initial study has already proved that it was possible to remove sericin from raw silk fiber by using an organic acid pretreatment and CO2 supercritical fluid over the heavy processes the industry currently deploys. The sericin removed from this innovative and eco-friendly processing of silk fiber will be remained in a clean state, not in the form of waste via the existing technologies in use. Clean sericin, rich in silk protein with high market values, can be a potentially perfect substitute of collagen the medical and cosmetic industries widely use. The continued research is focused on the other by-product coming out from this eco-friendly degumming process the silk fibers post degumming. Dyeing process is usually to blame negatively for deteriorating the environment. Eco-friendly silk fibers are able to exercising their commercial values well followed by eco-friendly processing. One of the supporting examples is the process of changing the colors of silk fabrics. This would include the dyeing process used to change the colors of silk fabric. The intention of the study is to reach the goal of creating an eco-friendly finishing process using a local natural plant-based indigo dyeing process that would complement an eco-friendly degumming process.

Findings

Degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment. The implications or potential applications of the findings: as it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO2. Moreover, implementation of the scCO2 silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufactures to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

Research limitations/implications

The innovation and novel aspects of research: degumming is an important stage in the silk manufacturing. Due to removing sericin from silk fibers, when subjected the degumming process, these silk fibers acquire the properties, which are of high consumer and commercial values, those include gloss, perfect color, soft handle and texture, elegant drape. Another purpose for the silk fabric degumming is preparing for the next step in processing, such as dyeing or printing. The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

Practical implications

The author has developed a new approach to the degumming process exploiting a supercritical fluid carbon dioxide and found it as a good alternative to the conventional methods that are currently used in industry. Silk fabrics treated by the scCO2 degumming process are characterized by improved dyeing ability or color strength, while this process does not adversely affect the environment.

Social implications

As it is clearly seen from Table 1, the effectiveness of the degumming process can be improved by at least 38% applying scCO2. Moreover, implementation of the scCO2 silk degumming process into the textile industry may help manufacturers to consume less water and energy resources (Elmaaty and Abd El-Aziz, 2017), as well as to obtain pure sericin as a valuable end-product that can be used in the medical and cosmetic industries.

Originality/value

To make the silk manufacturing more green, the author has developed a technology for obtaining a plant-based indigo dye applying only locally grown agricultural products. The author has found that banana paste and banana peel paste have a sufficiently enough reduction potential for converting the indigo dye into indigo white, which is an important stage in the dyeing processes. The investigation performed showed that both these pastes can serve as a green alternative to sodium hydrosulfite, widely used in industry as a reducing agent. The main result of this study is the demonstration that natural, recyclable and easily biodegradable resources can be exploited to produce the semi-products for the textile industry and the final dyed silk fabrics as well. Summarizing the above, it can be concluded that we have got the results, which show promising alternative green processes for the textile industry in silk treatment (both degumming and dyeing). Their implementation may turn the silk textile production into a sustainable green circle and economically viable manufacturer.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 33 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 May 2020

Edison Omollo Oduor, Lucy Wanjiru Ciera, Vijay Adolkar and Odoch Pido

This paper aims to determine the best conventional degumming technique for use by rural farmers practicing Eri silk fiber production in Kenya.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to determine the best conventional degumming technique for use by rural farmers practicing Eri silk fiber production in Kenya.

Design/methodology/approach

Three conventional silk degumming methods (water, soap and alkali) were analyzed under the factors, namely, time, pressure and degumming media, following the multilevel factorial design of experiments. The effect of variables on degumming weight loss was determined. The effects of the conventional degumming methods that produced complete sericin removal on chemical structure, surface morphology, thermal properties, crystallinity and fiber strength on Eri silk fibers produced in Kenya were then determined. The optimal degumming condition was then evaluated.

Findings

Soap and water degumming led to incomplete sericin removal. Alkali degumming media had the most effect, especially when pressure cooked at 103 kPa. Increasing time during alkali degumming beyond 30 min did not to have any major difference on degumming loss (at p 0.05). There were no major changes in chemical and thermal properties after degumming. However, the tensile strength and elongation deteriorated especially on alkali medium. Decreasing degumming time in alkali medium from 120 min to 30 min reduced the strength loss from 45% to 33%. Optimal degumming was found to be in an alkali media at 103 kPa for 30 min.

Originality/value

There is very little information available on Eri silk fibers produced in Kenya. Results of this study provide an optimized conventional degumming procedure suitable for small scale farmers in rural areas practicing Eri silk fiber production.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 24 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2011

A. Nayeem Faruqui and R.K. Sheikh

An improved multivoltine variety of Rajshahi silk fabric is used as material for investigation. This fabric is degummed to remove sericin, as sericin is soluble in hot water and…

Abstract

An improved multivoltine variety of Rajshahi silk fabric is used as material for investigation. This fabric is degummed to remove sericin, as sericin is soluble in hot water and highly responsible for the fading of dyed silk after washing. Rajshahi silk fabric is dyed with Reactive Brown 10 and Direct Orange 31 dyes. The color of the silk fabric becomes even and bright when it is dyed with 2.0% Reactive Brown 10 and 2.5% Direct Orange 31 after 50-60 minutes at 80-100°C. To achieve fast color, the silk fabric is treated with six modifying conditions prior to dyeing and among them, comparatively better modifying conditions are selected on the basis of color fastness upon exposure to sunlight in air and wash fastness in a soap solution. The modified Rajshahi silk fabric with 30% CH3COOH and 20% tannic acid together show better dyeing properties than modifications with other conditions and unmodified silk fabric. Direct Orange 31 shows better colorfastness than Reactive Brown 10 after exposure to sunlight in air and also after washing with a soap solution.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 15 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 January 2023

Haymanot Enawgaw

The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to give compiled information on previously applied cotton fabric surface modifications. The paper covered most of the modifications done on cotton fabric to improve its properties or to add some functional properties. The paper presented mostly studied research works that brought a significant surface improvement on cotton fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

Different previous works on surface modifications of cotton fabrics such as pilling, wrinkle and microbial resistance, hydrophobicity, cationization, flame retardancy and UV-protection characteristics were studied and their methods of modification including the main findings are well reported in this paper.

Findings

Several modification treatments on surface modification of cotton fabrics indicated an improvement in the desired properties in which the modification is needed. For instance, the pilling tendency, wrinkling, microbial degradation and UV degradation drawbacks of cotton fabric can be overcome through different modification techniques.

Originality/value

To the best of the author’s knowledge, there are no compressive documents that covered all the portions presented in this review. The author tried to cover the surface modifications done to improve the main properties of cotton fabric.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 April 2023

Uyen Nguyen Tu Tran, Hung Ngoc Phan, Thao Thanh Hoang, Nu Thi Hong Le and Huong Mai Bui

The textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with Rhodamine B (RhB) for fashion applications to reduce textile hazards to the environment and increase the added value of silk.

Design/methodology/approach

Bombyx mori was fed with RhB-colored mulberry leaves (1500 ppm). The effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.

Findings

Self-dyed silk possesses effective coloration and impressive color fastness (4–5/5), higher crystalline index (CrI) (73.26 ± 2.28%), less thermal stability and tenacity, slight change in amino acid composition compared with the pristine and no existence of harmful aromatic azo amines and arylamine salts.

Practical implications

The application of self-dyed silk with RhB dye has expanded new technology into fashion industry, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to silk in the global supply chain. Besides, the self-dyeing will yield practical values in the reduction of dyeing discharge in textile industry.

Originality/value

Self-dyed silk was characterized for textile applications in comparison with pristine silk in terms of color strength and fastness as well as determined its polymeric properties relating to crystallinity, morphology, chemical composition, tensile properties and thermal stability which have not been investigated before.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 March 2016

Md. Asadul Hoque, Md. Ibrahim H. Mondal, Md. Saiduzzaman and Uttom Kumar Paul

Colorfastness properties of dyed degummed and dyed stannic chloride weighted silk fiber were studied as a function of exposure to sunlight in air, washing with soap solution and…

Abstract

Purpose

Colorfastness properties of dyed degummed and dyed stannic chloride weighted silk fiber were studied as a function of exposure to sunlight in air, washing with soap solution and spotting with alkalis.

Design/methodology/approach

Improved multi-voltine variety of degummed silk fibers was weighted with the treatment of stannic chloride at the varying pH level. Maximum weighting of silk fiber was achieved at the optimum SnCl4 concentration, pH of the solution, time and temperature. The degummed (un-weighted) and weighted silk fibers were then dyed with Direct Blue 1 and Direct Red 28 dyes at the optimized dying conditions.

Findings

The role of base (Na2CO3) on dyeing of weighted silk fiber with Direct Red 28 was found very influential. The loss in tenacity of degummed silk fiber was higher than that of SnCl4 weighted silk fiber when they were exposed to sunlight in air.

Originality/value

The colorfastness of weighted dyed silk was comparatively higher than that of un-weighted dyed silk.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 20 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 October 2021

Mulayam Singh Gaur, Rajni Yadav, Mamta Kushwah and Anna Nikolaevna Berlina

This information will be useful in the selection of materials and technology for the detection and removal of mercury ions at a low cost and with high sensitivity and selectivity…

124

Abstract

Purpose

This information will be useful in the selection of materials and technology for the detection and removal of mercury ions at a low cost and with high sensitivity and selectivity. The purpose of this study is to provide the useful information for selection of materials and technology to detect and remove the mercury ions from water with high sensitivity and selectivity. The purpose of this study is to provide the useful information for selection of materials and technology to detect and remove the mercury ions from water with high sensitivity and selectivity.

Design/methodology/approach

Different nano- and bio-materials allowed for the development of a variety of biosensors – colorimetric, chemiluminescent, electrochemical, whole-cell and aptasensors – are described. The materials used for their development also make it possible to use them in removing heavy metals, which are toxic contaminants, from environmental water samples.

Findings

This review focuses on different technologies, tools and materials for mercury (heavy metals) detection and remediation to environmental samples.

Originality/value

This review gives up-to-date and systemic information on modern nanotechnology methods for heavy metal detection. Different recognition molecules and nanomaterials have been discussed for remediation to water samples. The present review may provide valuable information to researchers regarding novel mercury ions detection sensors and encourage them for further research/development.

Details

Sensor Review, vol. 41 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0260-2288

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 February 2023

Chaitali Brahma, Bhaskar Saha and Anirban Chowdhury

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to understand the perception of the local weavers amongst the Bodos, a tribe of the North-east (NE) India. Towards this a concept of a service pipeline process in the field of heritage attire preservation of Bodo Dokhona was focused that would endorse the local weavers' community for its wellbeing and sustainability.

Design/methodology/approach

The design approaches have been framed after interactions with the local weavers through a survey conducted for understanding the issues pertaining to weavers. Towards sustaining the Bodo heritage attire Dokhona, a service design pipeline for better management system was developed in three phases. Interactions with the local weavers through survey and validation for its feasibility were undertaken.

Findings

This research paper focuses on publishing innovative survey research and practice related to cultural heritage management of the Bodo traditional wear Dokhona and sustainability conservation of the pipeline process. Therefore, developing both skill and knowledge for the weavers' community of the region.

Social implications

The design pipeline approach in this paper has been shared with the local weavers' for easy understanding of the step-by-step process of weaving a Dokhona made of eri silk. A progressive Bodo weaver will gain skill training which would lead to weavers' empowerment.

Originality/value

Developing and documenting an innovative service design approach. In this context, an insight for women empowerment leading to preservation of Bodo heritage is valued.

Details

Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2044-1266

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2015

Prof. Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury and Mr. Suman Mitra

Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they…

Abstract

Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they lose in the market to synthetic dyes. However, in the handicraft sector, reproducibility may be of lesser importance against cost. In the present study, a domestic method of dyeing silk with the aqueous extract of raw plant/tree components (flower, leave, bark and root) by using a natural mordant and alum will be described. Good dyebath exhaustion and washing and light fastness are observed for some of the natural colouring matters.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 19 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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