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In view of high consumption situation of raw materials in the apparel industry due to unique and diversified style, the purpose of this paper is to investigate the application of pattern transformation between clothing and tent, explore the feasibility of extending multi-functional product and provide experimental demonstration for realizing 5R (Reduce, Reevaluate, Reuse, Recycle, Rescue) design goal of garment product.

According to the results of market research, in order to make single product have the functions of both outdoor couple clothing and simple tent, the planar patterns of clothing and tent are compared and transformed to make them compatible with each other, then the removable multi-functional design and technique processing are adopted.

It was found that outdoor clothing and tent with similar application occasions and raw materials could realize the assumption of multi-functional product. Their combination has the functions of both clothing and tent by wearing and assembling.

By means of this transformation design, the diversification and enjoyment of garment styles and functions can be realized. This helps to improve the energy efficiency of raw materials and accessories by increasing the frequency of product reuse and sharing. In addition, the enjoyment design of products also helps to lead and promote ecological consumption.

The aim of this paper is to find out if there is an optimum combination of the three layer clothing system and if so to indicate how this layered system may be applied to the development and marketing of outdoor clothing.

Seven fabrics typically used in outdoor clothing systems were chosen for the experiments; two fabrics for base liner, two for the mid layer and three for the outer shell. A total of 12 different clothing systems, which are all possible combinations that a consumer may create as clothing systems, were then established using the selected fabrics. To evaluate the effectiveness of the clothing systems, the water vapour permeability of each of these varying combinations was measured under both isothermal conditions and non‐isothermal conditions.

When three layers of fabrics, each developed to be base liner, middle layer and outer shell, were assembled into a simulated clothing system, it was expected that they would function together as a whole, exerting some influence over each other. In this paper, it was found that the behaviour of water vapour permeability changes if a layered system is applied within a clothing system. Furthermore, it was also found that an optimum combination of the three layer clothing system does exist although the combination may differ according to the ways in which the clothing system is evaluated.

These findings may be used for the development and marketing of three layer outdoor clothing systems as consumers will benefit by being offered the clothing system that will provide them with maximum comfort.

The emergence of smart wearables using clothing as a technology platform is a significant milestone with considerable implications for industrial convergence, creating new value for fashion. This paper aimed to present a premeditated prototype to integrate a human activity recognition (HAR) system into outdoor clothing.

For the development of wearable HAR (WHAR) clothing, this paper explored three subject areas: fashion design related to the structural feature of the clothing platform, electronics related to wearable circuits and modules design and graphic user interface design related to smartphone application development.

For WHAR functions in outdoor terrains, the coexistence of accelerometer–gyroscope sensing and distance-sensing could be practical to surpass the technological limitation of activity and posture recognition with gyro sensors highly depending on the changes of acceleration and angles.

Through the vital sign check and physical activity–change recognition function, this study's WHAR system allows users to check their health by themselves and avoid overwork. A quick rescue is possible manually and automatically in a dangerous situation by notifying others. Thus, it can help protect users' health and safety (life).

This study designed the modularization of HAR functions generally installed in indoor medical spaces. Through the approach, smart clothing–embracing WHAR systems optimized for health and safety care for outdoor environments was pursued to diversify expensive roles of clothing for technological applications.

Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.

100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.

The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

The purpose of this paper is to identify key aspects of business model development for sustainable apparel consumption, as actors show an increasing interest in product‒service systems. This purpose should be seen from a retailers’ perspective so as to develop sustainable solutions for long-term survival in the apparel industry when meeting consumer preferences for fashion as well as an increasing interest in consuming less. Further, this is from a perspective in an economy where sharing and circularity are potential drivers for changing consumer patterns.

The study is based on the apparel retailer Houdini Sportswear and its business model development from a traditional model of selling sportswear to a more future-oriented model where sustainability is more salient. The data for analysis were collected through interviews with employees within the studied company. The interviews have been guided by overarching themes covering relevant areas of interest for this study.

Overall, the paper shows how sustainability can be included in strategic development, from product idea, product development, production and sales/rental to repair, reuse and finally recycling. The paper also highlights potential obstacles in a developed business model with increased sustainability, including technological platforms, distribution networks for collecting and returning products and consumer consumption preferences. There are a few intertwined factors to be considered on different societal levels to achieve long-term success.

This study contributes an increased understanding of how more sustainable solutions can be included when developing business models. While the manufacture, distribution and consumption of clothes have an impact on the environment, some retailers and producers want to reduce this environmental impact. One alternative is to change the way clothes are consumed, to include more sharing and circularity.

Empire style fashion, Greek-Roman style robe with bare shoulder and chest and short sleeved with long gloves which created a slim silhouette, was worn even in winter season in Europe, where average temperature is 0-5°C. Most women suffered with catching cold and thousands caught flu and tuberculosis of the lungs, called muslin disease. The purpose of this paper is to find out clothing insulation of the robe by measuring the thermal resistance and to guess how cold they felt in this robe in winter time.

The authors performed the investigation on original robe shape with based on historical evidence and data, such as drawings, sketches, pattern books and sewing books, and reproduced a representative robe costume and tested its thermal insulation. The fabrics of robe were thin wool, silk and cotton following the literature evidence and preserved costume. Thermal insulation of the robes was measured using thermal manikin with the test method ISO 15831. The authors analyzed the thermal insulation of reconstructed robes with an inner cotton breech as for daily use and tested them wrapped with cashmere shawl on manikin shoulder as for severe cold weather.

The dress robes had the range of 0.61-0.67 clo regardless of the type of fabric materials, and 0.80-0.81 clo with the cashmere shawl. These values were not enough for women to keep body temperature or comfort in winter time.

This study combined fashion historic theory for costume reproduction with clothing science and technology for thermal insulation. Combination of costume history, construction technology and measurement engineering is the ingenious idea, and the combination of historical and scientific research evidences interdisciplinary originality.

The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of brand and message framing on consumers’ evaluations and purchase intentions of smart health-care clothing. The study also examines the mediating effect of consumers’ evaluations on the effects of the brand and message framing on purchase intentions.

Through an experimental approach, a total of 240 US consumers’ evaluation of smart health-care clothing is compared according to the existence of a well-known brand (vs. none) and message framing (technology-focused vs. fashion-focused).

The results show that consumer evaluation of smart health-care clothing is higher when the product is from a well-known brand, where consumers’ fashion consciousness and health consciousness positively influence such an evaluation as covariates. Message framing, however, did not have an influence that revealed any significant difference between technology-focused and fashion-focused messages. The consumer’s evaluation of smart health-care clothing eventually increased their purchase intentions and mediated the effects of brand on purchase intentions.

Smart health-care clothing refers to clothing that measures, records and manages the user’s activity and health status through conductive fibers or sensors that are woven in the clothes. Despite its benefits, smart health-care clothing is still not widely adopted among consumers, except for a few successful examples. Closing this gap, the results of this study provide implications regarding whether and how brand and message framing maximize consumers’ evaluations toward smart health-care clothing, which the developers and marketers of such products can use to increase the product’s market penetration.

The purpose of this study is to examine the branding strategies of SMEs from NIEs, juxtaposing the different strategies used to specifically target developed and developing countries with regard to brand-building approach, type and number of brands and degree of standardization.

A case-study approach is used. In-depth interviews are conducted with 10 Korean consumer-goods SMEs exporting their own in-house brands.

Clear differences emerge between the strategies of SMEs entering developed countries and those entering developing countries, particularly regarding brand identity development, use of foreign sales subsidiaries and number and types of brands used. The authors find an interaction effect between product characteristics and host market levels of economic development, both of which influenced the degree of product standardization.

This study is the first attempt to uncover the branding strategies of NIE consumer-goods SMEs. The findings contribute to the field by extending our understanding of branding strategies used by consumer-goods SMEs from NIEs, thereby providing useful insight for other NIE enterprises when establishing branding strategies aimed at foreign markets.

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of outdoor clothing, as well as to provide an optimal seam base for the subsequent pressure adhesive process.

Four types of common outdoor fabrics and four seam types were selected. Seam strength and thickness were measured. Seam efficiency and seam thickness strain were calculated to evaluate seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis was adopted to analyze the influence of seam type essential factors on seam strength.

Among the component factors of seam type, based on two stitches, seam strength was significantly affected by stitch distance, followed by fabric layer on the seam side. The increase of stitch and the interaction among fabrics can effectively improve the seam efficiency. The methods are as follows: the increase of stitches, stitch distance shortening, the increase of fabric layers, etc. The change of seam type had no significant influence on seam thickness strain. A seam-type design scheme of outdoor clothing with good mechanical and appearance properties was designed by choosing the seam types FX₁, FX₂ and FX₄.

This paper designed a practical scheme of seam-type design of outdoor clothing, which has been applied in the industrial production process. It is important for guiding the improvement of seam quality and the production efficiency of outdoor clothing.

This paper aims to develop the methodology for the imitation of exploitation conditions of textile products as well as to determine the exploitation peculiarities of high‐performance fabrics for outdoor clothing producible in Lithuania.

Static‐ and dynamic‐cyclic loading was applied for the imitation of exploitation conditions as well as for the investigation of the changes in specimen geometrical parameters.

The differences in the parameters of textile material stability determined under dry and wet cyclic specimen deformation were determined. The investigation results presented show that the parameters of air permeability can be used for the determination of changes in textile product shapes due to their cyclic washing as well as to the other kinds of wet technological treatment, especially in these cases when the small areas of product material are deformed.

The problems concerned with the methodology for the evaluation of exploitation stability of high‐performance fabrics (woven and knitted) for outdoor clothing are analyzed in this research.

In most cases, the exploitation behaviour of textile materials is investigated under uniaxial or static biaxial deformation. For better imitation of real exploitation conditions of textiles the new testing methodology based on two testing methods was established (original device for punch deformation working in creep mode as well as using wet and dry specimens; device ARRV for cyclic fatigue).