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This paper aims to study the optical properties of woven fabrics.

The current study was carried out to objectively evaluate the luster of a group of woven fabrics with different weave structures and weft densities, with the aid of a goniophotometer. The results obtained from the objective luster measurement were validated by a set of pair comparison subjective tests using Thurstone’s law of comparative judgment.

The proper correlation with the R² value of more than 0.96, between subjective and objective tests, confirmed the reliability and accordance of objective results with the human perception of luster. Statistical analysis of the luster results clarified that the effect of fabric structural parameters such as weave structure and weft density are significant at the confidence range of 95 per cent. The highest luster index was achieved for the twill 3/1 weave structure and the lowest luster belonged to the plain pattern. In addition, an increase in the density of the fabric leads to better luster. Moreover, it was concluded that the surface roughness affects the luster. A rise in the roughness value of the woven fabric causes reduction in its luster property.

Optical properties of woven fabrics, which are mainly attributed through the measurement of luster, are important for qualifying the aesthetic characteristics of the fabrics with various weave structures. Bearing in mind the influence of fabric surface properties on the aesthetic features of cloths, obtaining information in this field is a guide for selecting the suitable fabric for various end uses.

The purpose of this paper is to focus on the quality of the connections (linkset) among thesauri published as Linked Data on the Web. It extends the cross-walking measures with two new measures able to evaluate the enrichment brought by the information reached through the linkset (lexical enrichment, browsing space enrichment). It fosters the adoption of cross-walking linkset quality measures besides the well-known and deployed cardinality-based measures (linkset cardinality and linkset coverage).

The paper applies the linkset measures to the Linked Thesaurus fRamework for Environment (LusTRE). LusTRE is selected as testbed as it is encoded using a Simple Knowledge Organisation System (SKOS) published as Linked Data, and it explicitly exploits the cross-walking measures on its validated linksets.

The application on LusTRE offers an insight of the complementarities among the considered linkset measures. In particular, it shows that the cross-walking measures deepen the cardinality-based measures analysing quality facets that were not previously considered. The actual value of LusTRE’s linksets regarding the improvement of multilingualism and concept spaces is assessed.

The paper considers skos:exactMatch linksets, which belong to a rather specific but a quite common kind of linkset. The cross-walking measures explicitly assume correctness and completeness of linksets. Third party approaches and tools can help to meet the above assumptions.

This paper fulfils an identified need to study the quality of linksets. Several approaches formalise and evaluate Linked Data quality focusing on data set quality but disregarding the other essential component: the connection among data.

Studies the measurement and objective evaluation method of fabric lustre. Selects seven parameters at a two‐dimensional distribution curve of reflected light under natural light and polarized light and refines from them four independent variations by the method of main composition analysis. Using regression analysis with the results of subjective evaluation, finds that fabric lustre has distinct regional distribution on the figures of M1 and M2, so it can be used as a general test method.

The increasing demand for labels with greater appeal has lead to the specialised development of lustre pigments and powders, particularly in gravure and flexographic printing applications. They provide coatings ranging from soft, satin sheen to sparkling brilliance, and there are some which give rich metallic lustres. Printers who have had experience in the use of bronze and aluminium metallic powders have found that the techniques used in the incorporation of these types of pigments are much the same as when using lustre pigments.

The purpose of this study is to reduce the gloss of the surface of silk fabrics, by treating the fabrics with tea and matting agent, to imitate the aging and retro effects of silk artefacts.

Silk fabrics were treated with different processing techniques. The aged appearance and surface gloss of the silk fabrics were characterised by sensory analysis, measurement of reflectivity, scanning electron microscopy, measurement of brightness and chroma to identify the influential factors.

The application of matting agent on silk fabrics could reduce the lustre of silk fabrics. Treated with matting agent and tea pigments, silk fabrics could be “aged” to achieve retro effects within a relatively short period of time. A number of other factors and mechanisms that affect the reflectivity of the silk fabrics were also identified.

There is no definite index to evaluate the antique effect of fabrics.

The method developed through this study provided a simple and practical solution to achieving aging and retro effects on silk fabrics.

The method for reducing the lustre of silk fabrics by treating them with matting agent is novel and the finding of the relationships among reflectivity and brightness and chroma is original.

This paper aims to examine the dynamics of foreign direct investment (FDI) inflows into Indonesia. It is interested specifically in analysing and deliberating on two important policy questions: First, are all kinds of FDI useful from a policy perspective and what does the existing data on FDI reveal about the type of FDI inflows into Indonesia? Second, does the existing data help understand the extent of de facto bilateral linkages between Indonesia and other countries?

The paper offers an in-depth case study of Indonesia using extensive exploratory data analysis on FDI inflows into Indonesia. As discussed in the paper, the data investigation uses and reconciles available FDI data both from national and international sources to understand the usefulness of such data for policy analysis.

A data investigation of the trends in different types of FDI flows reveals a discernible downward trend in the ratio of mergers and acquisitions (M&A)–FDI ratio over the years. The paper argues that from a sequencing perspective, while a medium-to-long-term framework encouraging both domestic and foreign Greenfield investments could help Indonesia regain its growth luster, in the near term much more attention needs to be paid to FDI inflows in the form of M&As. Further, reconciling FDI and M&A data might help identify the original sources of FDI flows because existing data are based on flow of funds rather than ultimate ownership.

Since the Asian financial crisis, Indonesia has successfully embarked on a phase of economic and political transition post-Suharto, with the cornerstones of such a strategy being a process of greater democratisation and decentralisation. However, there have been growing concerns of economic growth stagnation in recent years. One of the policies to revive the economy’s lustre adopted by the government has been to attract greater FDI inflows. In this light, this paper examines the dynamics of FDI into Indonesia and deliberates on what kinds of FDI policymakers should focus on attracting to restore the country’s growth lustre.

The question of whether a policy to attract FDI should be careful in distinguishing the kind of FDI it wants to attract has not been sufficiently addressed in the related literature. This paper provides a framework to understand the different macroeconomic policy implications of types of FDI and provides extensive data analysis to not only understand the types of FDI but also sources of bilateral FDI inflows to Indonesia by reconciling FDI and M&A data.

Gelation that can occur when copper or aluminium bronze powder is permitted to stand in nitrocellulose lacquer can be prevented by the addition of below one percent of lauric acid. Butyl acetyl ricinoleate will impart highgloss, plasticity, pliability to nitro‐cellulose lacquers and impart permanence, and improves the ageing properties and low temperature flexibility to the product. Acrylic coatings of improved gloss and pattern control have been provided by the addition of methyl hydroxystearate. When barium α‐sulphostearate is added to interior or exterior paints it can produce films of improved hardness. Methyl linoleate can be employed to retard the hardening of Japanese film lacquer. Compositions with good heat stability and good thixotropic properties and which are suitable for use as a base for paints have been evolved by reacting hydrogenated castor oil with toluene di‐isocyanate and emulsifiable and polyethylene wax. The use of aluminium stearate in paints at elevated temperatures can result in films of high opacity, good build, sag resistance, heavy pigmented tolerance and good sealing properties. Myristic acid‐based alkyd aryl ketones have been utilised to impart lustre to wooden surfaces, and stearic acid terminated polyamide/polyimide for coatings for electrical insulators of magnetic wire have been applied to give improved lustre. Diethylene glycol esters of dilinoleic acid can be used to produce non‐drip paints, as can ethylene diamine bis hydroxystearate, and glyceryl trihydroxystearate. Hydrogenated castor oil is useable in the making of thixotropic agents applicable to paints have been prepared from the material, plus oligomers of hydroxystearic acid/ethylenediamine/sebacic acid polymers. Ethyl linoleate and ethyl linoleate have been used as penetrants in anti‐corrosive paints based upon alkyd resins. Aluminium stearate can prevent excess penetration by paints of surfaces. Bis (hydroxymethyl) propanediol oleate has found use in alkyd resins derivative coatings with butylated melamine resins‐hardening materials to give pinhole resistant coatings. Butyl stearate is a good low temperature plasticiser for paints. Butyl acetyl ricinoleate imparts good plate release and cold crack resistance to leather lacquers, and provides good handle and excellent low temperature flexibility to coated fabrics on thick unsupported sheetings.

The purpose of this paper is to create a fabric retrieval system for designers that is based on a database that includes designers’ criteria and Kansei (sense and feeling) information, designed for the selection of a fabric from a wide range in e-commerce.

The database included sensory expressions for each type of fabric taken from fashion journals and values of smoothness, softness, luster and thinness (referred to as Kansei values) for each fabric. The Kansei values were determined by a Japanese expert designer using standard fabric samples of a fabric type. The system uses two search methods to find the desired type of fabric: a category search method and a free word search method. After finding appropriate types of fabric, the user further narrows down the fabrics of the selected type to more suitable fabrics using the Kansei values. The validity of the Kansei values and the effectiveness of the system were verified by 11 professional designers from Japan and Sweden.

The Japanese and Swedish designers were satisfied with the fabrics retrieved for specific items and found that the system was effective. The Kansei values were similar among fashion designers and shown to be effective for fabric retrieval.

The system will allow designers to find appropriate types of fabric and to narrow their search for fabrics among selected types to find candidate fabrics easily and quickly with their Kansei values and experience without technical knowledge of fabrics.