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The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity.

Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis.

The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results.

Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate factors affecting the impression of elegance of a jacket’s appearance.

A questionnaire survey on the impression of jacket appearance was conducted using images of jackets of Japanese and European brands. A paired comparison and sensory test were carried out for four Japanese and European jackets. To explain different jacket appearances, the jacket patterns and silhouettes were investigated from an engineering point of view.

Most Japanese subjects responded that European jackets in images were more elegant and characteristic of European style. In a comparison of jacket silhouettes, Jacket 1 (European brand) was evaluated as the most elegant. The waist and bust parts of Jacket 1 had three-dimensional shape whereas the Japanese jackets had planar and rectilinear shapes. This was due to the difference in the waist darts and curved lines in the patterns. Jacket appearance in terms of elegance is thus mainly affected by the waist and bust shapes, which are affected by darts and lines in the patterns.

This is pioneering research on the elegance of garment appearance from an engineering point of view, using actual clothing. The comparison results for commercial jackets will be valuable to the apparel industry.

The purpose of this paper is to clarify changes in the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket due to changes in the ease allowance and determine suitable ranges of the ease allowance for the jacket.

Images were taken of the front, side and back of a jacket placed on a dress form with varying sizes of bust, waist and hips. The authors observed the appearance of the jacket for the different sizes of the dress form. A sensory evaluation of the suitable range of ease allowance for the jacket involving 20 female Japanese university students was carried out. The evaluation items were the fit, beauty, comfort and purchase intention.

The jacket appearance was lowly evaluated if there were many wrinkles and highly evaluated if there was a curved silhouette. Changes in bust, sleeve and waist parts affected the evaluation of the suitable ranges of ease allowance. The suitable range of ease allowance varied depending on the jacket part and viewing direction. In terms of fit, the suitable ease allowance ranged between 5.6 and 9.9 percent for the bust, between 7.6 and 17.8 percent for the waist and between 2.6 and 8.6 percent for the hips. The suitable ranges were determined considering the wrinkling and silhouette in these parts.

Suitable ranges of ease allowance of a tailored jacket were determined by evaluating a jacket for 11 dress form sizes of the bust, nine sizes of the waist and seven sizes of the hips, at 2 cm intervals. The obtained suitable ease allowance ranges are useful to manufacturers in terms of garment design and to customers in terms of selecting suitable garments.

To investigate consumers’ perceptions of appearance and handle of the chest area and the lapel in men’s tailored jackets, both objective measurement using FAST and subjective assessment utilising semi‐structured interview were employed. It was found that objective measurement provides insufficient information to predict the tailorability if reliance is placed purely upon properties obtained from shell fabrics. Use of the fabric and interlining laminates, however, provides better prediction of tailorability, especially those aspects associated with appearance and shape retention. It was also found that objective measurement results do not agree with the subjective assessment results, particularly with regard to the subjective assessment of the female interviewees. It is suggested that thought should be given to devising a method of evaluating objective measurement results suitable to fabric and interlining laminates that can also take account of market trends directly related to consumer perception.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate a suitable position for the bustline of the upper garment and its effect on appearance for various body types. It also provides an appropriate balance between the bustline and the waistline.

The authors manufactured five upper garments using a patternmaking method that allows for the distance between the side neck point and the bust point (BL) to be altered. The appearance of the garments on four dress forms with different values of BL was compared using Scheffe’s paired comparison (Nakaya’s variation) of seven scales. In total, 20 Japanese subjects in their 20s evaluated the garments. Six evaluation items – wrinkle amount, fit, attractiveness, beauty, youthfulness and slimness – were used. The vertical ratios of the garments on each dress form, a (projected distance between the horizontal line of the shoulder points and the bustline) and b (projected distance between the bustline and waistline), were measured using 3D scanned data. The relationship between the ratios and the results of the sensory test was investigated.

It was found that changing the values of the BL influenced the appearance of the upper garments. The upper garment for which the BL was adjusted according to dress form was determined to not be well-fitting, attractive and beautiful. The garment with an a:b ratio of close to 1 was evaluated as beautiful, attractive and better fitting than all others.

The results of this study will help designers and patternmakers create more beautiful, attractive and fitting upper garments.

A test method and instrumentation have been developed to facilitate the identification of potential appearance problems and for the development of improved fabric pressing performance. The method determines the fabric pressing performance with a greater degree of certainty than using a steam press. The weft “pressing performance” crease angle, as measured by the test method developed by CSIRO, in cooperation with IWS (Biella Technical Centre) and the Italian industries, combined with warp formability, as measured by SIROFAST, were found to be the two fabric properties most important for the prediction of the acceptability and appearance of a range of high quality men’s suits. It also appears that a good pressing performance can partly compensate for the seam pucker symptoms of low formability.

The contribution presented here is the development of the system for qualitative prediction of garment appearance quality. The starting point for designing such a system is a qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality, based on the study of relation of fabric mechanical properties and achieved quality level of garment appearance, as well as the definition of elements of a system for qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality level, i.e. its fit.

The purpose of this paper is to develop an illuminated polymeric optical fibre (POF) garment – the LUMI jacket – with accessibility and wearability improvements. This paper demonstrates how wearable technology can be seamlessly integrated into daily life.

An interdisciplinary approach involving design and technological techniques was adopted. Both garment design approaches and textile technologies were used to optimise the performance of a POF jacket. A group of tactile sensors was developed to create an easy-to-access interactive function. A POF fabric sample and garment were washed and examined to prove that a POF garment could be made part of a domestic laundry routine.

As a result, an illuminated POF garment – the LUMI jacket with textile-based switches – was created. Compared with current POF garments, the LUMI jacket’s wearability and accessibility were highly improved.

This project explored an unobstructive POF-illuminated garment to address the functional and wearable barriers to adoption. The interaction between wearer and garment is accessible. Electronics and textile touch sensors were seamlessly integrated into garment. Washability of POF garment was proved. This research explores how e-textiles can fit into everyday life.

Observes that the formability of woven fabric has a major effect on the appearance of garments, in that seams sewn from fabrics with low formability are more likely to pucker than those sewn from fabric with high formability. Describes the concept of formability and illustrates the relationship between this parameter and seam pucker, the difficulty of a particular sewing operation and the appearance of structured jackets. Notes that the formability of wool fabrics is most appropriately controlled in finishing by modifying the extensibility of the fabric. Discusses the difficulties associated with engineering, the extensibility of woven fabrics and the implications for other fabric properties, such as relaxation shrinkage.

Women in Western Europe wore empire style robes which were made with a light and thin fabric revealing their body. To stress the silhouette of their body, they applied oil to it or sprayed water on the robe so that it would cling to the body, and most women suffered from muslin disease, meaning flu and tuberculosis of the lungs in winter season. The purpose of this paper is to examine the thermal insulation of the robe with spencer jacket in dry and wet environment through thermal manikin experiments.

Three kinds of spencer jacket were made based on historical evidence and data, and experimental work for thermal insulation was conducted using a thermal manikin. The study measured the total thermal resistance of dress-jacket set: weight of the clothing before and after wetting, thermal insulation of the spencer jackets and set of clothing in dry and wet conditions, electric power consumption of the set of clothing in the wet condition and temperature inside the clothing and surface temperature of the wet set of clothing.

The thermal insulation of the robe with spencer jacket in the wet condition was in the range of 0.135-0.144 clo, which was about 80 percent lower than the range of values of 0.73-0.79 clo measured in the dry condition. This means that women felt uncomfortable in wetting condition or raining environment even when wearing the robe with a spencer jacket. Thermal insulation of clothing was dependent to the air gap under garment, clothing layers, ventilation through fabric and body part.

In this study, the thermal insulation of an empire style robe with spencer jacket in wet condition was measured using a dry thermal manikin, not with the sweating manikin. The authors measure the electric power consumption according to drying time of the clothing set at the body parts. In order to study the effect of different materials and clothing wetting, comparison experiments were conducted in dry and wet conditions using the rinse cycle of washing machine.