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Effect of the difference between body dimensions and jacket measurements on the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket

Ai Monobe (Graduate School of Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Ueda, Japan)
KyoungOk Kim (Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research, Shinshu University, Ueda, Japan)
Masayuki Takatera (Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research, Shinshu University, Ueda, Japan)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 4 September 2017

240

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to clarify changes in the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket due to changes in the ease allowance and determine suitable ranges of the ease allowance for the jacket.

Design/methodology/approach

Images were taken of the front, side and back of a jacket placed on a dress form with varying sizes of bust, waist and hips. The authors observed the appearance of the jacket for the different sizes of the dress form. A sensory evaluation of the suitable range of ease allowance for the jacket involving 20 female Japanese university students was carried out. The evaluation items were the fit, beauty, comfort and purchase intention.

Findings

The jacket appearance was lowly evaluated if there were many wrinkles and highly evaluated if there was a curved silhouette. Changes in bust, sleeve and waist parts affected the evaluation of the suitable ranges of ease allowance. The suitable range of ease allowance varied depending on the jacket part and viewing direction. In terms of fit, the suitable ease allowance ranged between 5.6 and 9.9 percent for the bust, between 7.6 and 17.8 percent for the waist and between 2.6 and 8.6 percent for the hips. The suitable ranges were determined considering the wrinkling and silhouette in these parts.

Originality/value

Suitable ranges of ease allowance of a tailored jacket were determined by evaluating a jacket for 11 dress form sizes of the bust, nine sizes of the waist and seven sizes of the hips, at 2 cm intervals. The obtained suitable ease allowance ranges are useful to manufacturers in terms of garment design and to customers in terms of selecting suitable garments.

Keywords

Citation

Monobe, A., Kim, K. and Takatera, M. (2017), "Effect of the difference between body dimensions and jacket measurements on the appearance of a ready-made tailored jacket", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 29 No. 5, pp. 627-645. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-02-2017-0015

Publisher

:

Emerald Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2017, Emerald Publishing Limited

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