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Article
Publication date: 25 November 2019

Virginija Daukantienė and Gerda Mikalauskaitė

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of assembly type on the hand property of the polyester-knitted materials containing different amounts of elastane fibre.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of assembly type on the hand property of the polyester-knitted materials containing different amounts of elastane fibre.

Design/methodology/approach

The hand property of control textile materials specimens as well as assembled ones applying both adhesive bonding and sewing was evaluated analysing the typical pulling curves as well as the individual hand parameters, which were determined using the device KTU-Griff-Tester. The complex hand criterion Q was calculated for the complete assessment of both textiles and their assemblies’ hand by one numeral value.

Findings

It was shown that the fabric structure and assembly type have a significant influence on the knitted materials hand property. The complex hand criterion Q varied from 0.068 to 0.186, depending on the material structure, and it was decreased up to 42.6 per cent due to textile assemblies.

Practical implications

The determined research results are significant not only for clothing science but also leads to the improvement in clothing quality in fashion industry suggesting more ergonomic and original constructional decisions for clothes’ design, selection of most suitable assembly type and its place in overall garment area, which is very important for the development process of the slim fitted sportswear featuring with a very complicated construction, usually worn under intensive body movements causing rubbing effect to the skin.

Originality/value

Knitted fabrics should not only be elastic but also have perfect hand, thus making them to feel comfortable. But hand property of assembled textiles had not been investigated previously. Novelty and originality of this research was the objective and simple evaluation of the hand property for both knitted materials and their assemblies taking into account the overall skin sensorial comfort of a garment.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 November 2013

Virginija Daukantienë and Inga Laurinavićiūtë

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of embroidering technological parameters, of knitted material structure and of either using or not nonwoven material for…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the influence of embroidering technological parameters, of knitted material structure and of either using or not nonwoven material for backing on the quality of restangular embroidered element; based on the obtained results to select the optimal technological parameters for the embroidering of original clothing element avoiding the higher time expenses for the technical development process of new product.

Design/methodology/approach

The new methodology for the optimization of technology of original embroidered clothing element is based on the measurements of simple geometric element.

Findings

The methodology of technology optimisation based on the measurement of restangular element geometric parameters can also be applied for the optimization of the embroidering technology of advanced design elements.

Research limitations/implications

The present study was carried out investigating knitted materials, but its methodology may be used for woven fabrics also, as their elongation rate is lower than one of knitted materials.

Originality/value

Development of the embroidering technology of original clothing element is based on the scientific approach and industrial experience.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 April 2015

Vitalija Masteikaite, Virginija Saceviciene, Elmira Kopbajeva and Maira Nurjasarova

To produce a coated fabric, a base fabric may be completely or partially coated with a polymer layer, which changes the properties of the new system relative to the base fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

To produce a coated fabric, a base fabric may be completely or partially coated with a polymer layer, which changes the properties of the new system relative to the base fabric. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the influence of the thermal transfer material and its shape on the deformability of knitted fabrics during the uniaxial extension and to determine the residual deformation of the thermoplastic transfer element of coated fabrics after unloading.

Design/methodology/approach

Knitted fabrics were partially and entirely coated with heat transfer material. For partial coating, square pieces of three different transfer materials were bonded on the middle of the specimen. They were solid, perforated with either nine circular holes or six rectangular holes. A heat seal press was used to laminate knitted fabrics. The samples were subjected to uniaxial tensile testing. The characteristics such as strain at maximum force, strain at break, and strain at low stress were measured. After stretching and relaxation of the specimens, the residual deformation of the heat transfer element was also investigated.

Findings

The results indicated that coating knitted fabrics with transfer material may decrease their stretchability. The experiments show that the decrease in stretchability and in the degree of residual deformation after stretching and relaxing depend on the knitted structure, the shape of the transfer element, and the degree to which the fabric is coated.

Originality/value

This study examines the influence of heat transfer material which may be not only entirely but also partially joined with knitted fabric layer on the deformability and shape stability of this system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 March 2023

Elvira Sarybayeva, Meruert Kuramysova, Mirabzal Mukimov, Mukhamejan Shardarbek, Zhansaule Rakhmanova, Kamshat Makhanbetaliyeva, Farkhad Tashmukhamedov, Indira Jurinskaya and Marzhan Kalmakhanova

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.

Findings

It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.

Originality/value

It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 May 2014

E. Perumalsamy, J.C. Sakthivel and N. Anbumani

The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite element analysis. In order to elaborate the study, high, medium and low tightness knitted fabrics were selected and deformation of fabrics analyzed in course, wales and bias directions (0, 45 and 90 degrees).

Design/methodology/approach

This study focussed on uni-axial tensile test of produced test samples using Instron 6021 tester and a development of single-jersey knitted loop model using Auto Desk Inventor software (ADI). The knitted fabric material properties and knitted loop model was imported to ANSYS 12.0 software.

Findings

Due to structural changes the tightness and thickness of knitted fabric decreases with increase in loop length The tensile result shows maximum breaking strength at course direction (13.43 kg f/mm2 at 2.7 mm) and maximum extension at wales direction (165.77 kg f/mm2 at 3.3 mm). When the loop length increases, the elongation of fabrics increased and load carrying capacity of fabrics reduced. The Young's modulus, Poisson's ratio and shear modulus of fabrics reduced with increase in loop length. The deformation of fabrics increased with increase in loop length. The increase in loop length gives large amount of structural changes and it is due to slacking or jamming in loops and loosening in dimensions. When comparing the deformation results, the variation within the fabric is higher and structural damage little more when increasing the loop length of the fabric.

Originality/value

From ANOVA test, stress and strain distribution was statistically significant among course, wales and bias directions at 95 percent confidence level. The values got from Instron test indicates that testing direction can alter its deformation. In deformation analysis, comparing both experimental and prediction, high amount of structural changes observed in wales direction. The used tetrahedral elements can be used for contact analysis with high accuracy. For non-linear problems, consistent approach was proposed which makes the sense to compare with experimental methods. The proposed model will make possible developments and the preliminary validation tests shows good agreement with experimental data.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 26 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 November 2021

Biqin Zhan, Xian Huang, Chenyuan Cai and Honglian Cong

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new…

Abstract

Purpose

Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed.

Findings

On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing.

Originality/value

In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2022

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

152

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 October 2021

Doaa H. Elgohary, Tamer F. Khalifa, Mona M. Salem, Nermin M. Aly, Elham Hassan and Ashraf A. Shamaa

The purpose of this work is to perform an application study on experimental animals (dogs) to investigate the efficiency of using weft knitted mesh fabric as cardiac support mesh…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this work is to perform an application study on experimental animals (dogs) to investigate the efficiency of using weft knitted mesh fabric as cardiac support mesh to support left ventricular hypertrophy.

Design/methodology/approach

In this work, weft-knitted mesh sample “Knitted Cardiac Support Mesh” manufactured using Nylon (6, 6) yarns, with count 20 Denier and medium mesh size, was placed around the two ventricles to prevent further dilatation, support and reduce left ventricular wall stress.

Findings

Medical textile is a rapidly expanding field in technical textiles that are widely used in a variety of medical applications. One of these medical textile applications is “Knitted Cardiac Support Mesh”, which is used in the treatment of Dilated Cardiomyopathy.

Originality/value

After the implantation of the manufactured Knitted Cardiac Support Mesh around the myocardium, all dogs survived for three months before being euthanized, and some clinical examinations were performed to investigate and evaluate the sample performance. It was demonstrated from the experimental application, that the nylon mesh sample performed the best during the surgical operation due to its good ability to stretch and recover at a moderate rate, as well as the textile mesh lightweight.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 November 2009

George K. Stylios

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1098

Abstract

Examines the fifthteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 November 2008

George K. Stylios

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

1248

Abstract

Examines the fourteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 3000