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Drape is a characteristic behaviour of flexible cloth, so it is important in modelling cloth. The paper introduces a novel method to model drape using a few shape parameters, predicted according to the pattern structure and mechanical properties of cloth. The technique is used to visualize the 3‐D drapeability of cloth and is then extended to simulation of a skirt. The general shape of a flared skirt of large deformation is predicted based on several shape parameters. Moreover, the constructed skirt model is used as pre‐draped initial shape for the popular physically‐based model – particle system. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) plots of cloth are applied for accurate mechanical calculation. The simulated results show good agreement with actual cloth materials.

This paper discusses the concept of virtual measurement in textiles and describes the development of a virtual 3D fabric drape measurement system. In this system, a physical based model is used to predict the draping performance, static and dynamic drape of a given fabric sample. Fabric mechanical properties are used for simulating the virtual 3D shape of the fabric samples, which produce a time‐variable deformation of the virtual fabric drape. The 3D fabric drape can be observed under any view angle. An algorithm is developed, applied and integrated into the system for carrying out virtual fabric drape measurements in order to evaluate the drapeability of a given fabric. Important fabric aesthetic attributes such as number of fabric folds, fold variation and depth of fold are presented and implemented together with the drape co‐efficient.

This study aims to manufacture alternative window shutters using waste cotton fabrics by stiffening using polyvinyl acetate (PVA) with vinyl acrylic binder solutions.

The manufactured fabrics were evaluated for their tensile strength, drapeability, bending length by weight and color fastness to light. And finally, an analysis of variance was done for each parameter.

As the percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers increased, the tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), and color fastness to light increased in both directions. The percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers are statistically significant for each response such as tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), color fastness to light and water repellency at a 95% confidence interval. Tensile strength, drape coefficient (%) and bending length (cm) are always greater in the warp direction than in the weft direction. The tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm) and color fastness to light of treated fabrics samples are greater than those of the untreated fabrics.

The factory waste fabrics can be recycled into window shutters which will provide the cheaper raw material for window shutter manufacturers.

Silk and lyocell textiles are categorized as protein and cellulose polymer products of natural fibers. They have their unique uses in the textile, apparel and garment fields. Polyester (PET) is one of the most important synthetic textiles with very good resistance towards chemical and microbial attacks. The presence of PET in mixed silk fabric provides added value. In this study, a saree is developed with silk as the warp and lyocell and PET as the weft. The product is compared with a 100% silk saree with respect to tensile strength, elongation, drapeability, stiffness and antimicrobial activity. The developed saree gives good results that are close to that of the 100% silk saree, and the cost of the developed saree is less than half of that of 100% silk.

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.

Presents a study of the relationships between fabric drapeability and seam allowance, seam position and seam directions in terms of drape coefficient, bending length and draped profile. Concludes that by the results obtained from the sewn specimens, the draped profile of a fabric without a seam can be predicted and proved by extended experimental work. Suggests that the knowledge gained from present research on fabric drape will be useful in the determination of the drape profile on garment in practical use. Moreover, it has significant value in paving the way for establishing clothing CAD systems, and sheds light on fundamental mechanisms operating in fabric drape behaviour.

In recent years, the textile industry has been required to develop new methods and technologies through introduction of some new materials in various processes rather than employing the same conventional chemicals. The aim of this research was to investigate the changes induced on the cotton fibre by the nanoclay treatment using a pre‐treatment method.

The fibres were dyed with basic and direct dyes after the nanoclay pre‐treatment. Technical measurements were studied including Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), UV‐visible spectrophotometer, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermal degradation analysis (TGA), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), moisture regain measurement (MRM), tensile strength test (TST), reflectance spectroscopy (RS) and fastnesses evaluation.

The intensity of the major peaks in FTIR spectra of the nanoclay treated sample is in favour of the chemical changes of the cellulose functional groups. Basic dyes showed a higher dyeability on the clay pre‐treated samples compared to raw materials. The results of the colour measurements showed that the more concentration of the clay mineral was used, the darker the colour of the dyed sample was. Some interesting results were obtained in the research.

The nanoclay and a dispersing agent used in the present context were used as received. Besides, the type of the dispersing agent is important for preparation of a colloidal dispersion of nanoclay.

The method developed in this research provides a simple and practical solution for improving the dyeability of cotton with direct and basic dyes.

The method for enhancing the dyeability of cotton is novel and can be used in cotton processing with new properties.

The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment.

Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties.

Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented.

There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies.

Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of laundering on the drape, shear, and bending properties of bottom weight fabrics.

Six bottom‐weight 100 percent cotton fabrics were included. Collier's Drape Tester was utilized to obtain drape values. Bending and shear values were measured on the KES‐F Shear Tester and the Pure Bending Tester. Three laundering cycles (unlaundered, one and five home launderings) following AATCC methods were explored.

Laundry cycle did not have a significant effect on fabric drape, shear or bending properties. However, drape values increased overall, while shear and bending modulus and hysteresis decreased, resulting in a more drapable, pliable fabric after five laundry cycles.

Future research examining a wider variety of fabrics and conducting a greater number of laundry cycles to approximate an average yearly number of laundry cycles is recommended. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of drape and fabric mechanical properties related to drape after laundry treatments would assist the apparel manufacturer in developing laundry recommendations based on the fabric's performance and in selecting fabrics which maintain their drape characteristics, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability with use. Higher quality garments with increased consumer satisfaction would result.

To provide researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drape and review the literature related to fabric drape.Design/methodology/approach – In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in investigating the aesthetic behavior of fabrics due to the developments in objective evaluation techniques. To understand drape behavior, it is essential to know how drape is measured quantitatively. This paper reviews research related to drape characteristics of fabrics, two‐dimensional instruments and analysis of drape by measuring stiffness, three‐dimensional instruments developed to measure drape, fabric mechanical properties and their influence on drape measurement, and the latest developments in the field including image analysis, the dynamic drape tester and other related research.Findings – Many instruments for measuring drape have been developed including the earliest that assessed stiffness of fabrics, later versions of drape meters and recent innovative instruments for capturing complex drape information. Even though extensive detail for simple geometric forms such as circles and squares can be provided by the newest methods, measurement of the drape characteristics of complex forms needs the consideration of researchers to extend the work on drape measurement to garments. It was also noted that there are some contradictory conclusions regarding the properties influencing fabric drape.Originality/value – This paper is offered as a concise reference for individuals beginning research in the area of fabric drape.