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Article
Publication date: 10 November 2022

Md. Raijul Islam, Ayub Nabi Nabi Khan, Rois Uddin Mahmud, Shahin Mohammad Nasimul Haque and Md. Mohibul Islam Khan

This paper aims to evaluate the effects of banana (Musa) peel and guava (Psidium guajava) leaves extract as mordants on jute–cotton union fabrics dyed with onion skin extract as a…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to evaluate the effects of banana (Musa) peel and guava (Psidium guajava) leaves extract as mordants on jute–cotton union fabrics dyed with onion skin extract as a natural dye.

Design/methodology/approach

The dye was extracted from the outer skin of onions by boiling in water and later concentrated. The bio-mordants were prepared by maceration using methanol and ethanol. The fabrics were pre-mordanted, simultaneously mordanted and post-mordanted with various concentrations according to the weight of the fabric. The dyed and mordanted fabrics were later subjected to measurement of color coordinates, color strength and colorfastness to the washing test. Furthermore, the dyed samples were characterized by Fourier transform infrared, and different chemical bonds were analyzed by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis.

Findings

Significant improvement was obtained in colorfastness and color strength values in various instances using banana peel and guava leaves as bio mordants. Post-mordanted with banana peel provided the best results for wash fastness. Better color strength was achieved by fabric post-mordanted with guava leave extracts.

Originality/value

Sustainable dyeing methods of natural dyes using banana peel and guava leaves as bio mordants were explored on jute–cotton union fabrics. Improvement in colorfastness and color strength for various instances was observed. Thus, this paper provides a promising alternative to metallic salt mordants.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 53 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 May 2024

Changhyun (Lyon) Nam, Mitchell Lewis Stephenson, Chunhui Xiang and Eulanda Sanders

This study aimed to compare the performance of sustainable shoes made with bacterial cellulosic composite and commercial leather shoes using an experimental research design. The…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aimed to compare the performance of sustainable shoes made with bacterial cellulosic composite and commercial leather shoes using an experimental research design. The two specific research objectives were: (1) to examine the basic material properties of multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC), which include green tea-based cellulosic (GBC) mats, hemp fabrics, and denim fabrics, in comparison with those of two-layered leathers (MCP) consisting of calf-skin and pig-skin – commonly used in shoe manufacturing; and (2) to explore wearers’ performance in the two types of shoes by assessing quantitative kinematic and kinetic parameters of lower body movements.

Design/methodology/approach

This study focused on assessing the basic materials testing and performance of sustainable shoes through a biomechanical approach, in contrast to commercially available leather shoes, through human wear trials. In this study, green tea-based cellulosic (GBC) mats were developed using the optimal combination of ingredients for cellulose growth. Subsequently, the GBC, denim fabric (100% cotton), and 100% hemp fabric were combined to create multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC) as an alternative to leather. Additionally, calf-skin and pig-skin leathers were utilized to produce a commercially available two-layered leather (MCP), commonly employed in shoe manufacturing. 37 of the 42 human subjects who participated in wear testing were collected. A paired t-test was conducted to determine whether significant mean differences existed between the two shoe types, a paired t-test was conducted.

Findings

To develop a biodegradable and compostable material that could be used as a leather alternative for the footwear industry, we proposed MBC and examined its properties compared with those of MCP, a product often used when making shoes. These findings confirmed the similar properties of MBC and MCP from the material testing and the possibility of using a men’s sustainable shoe prototype as a leather alternative, in terms of kinematics and kinetics.

Practical implications

The new multi-layered bacterial cellulosic materials (MBC) could be an alternative to commercial leathers such as innovative sustainable material construction, advanced design, and advanced techniques to optimize the overall performance of sustainable footwear.

Originality/value

Investigating the integration of smart textile technologies, ergonomic design principles, and personalized customization will contribute to developing MBC and making sustainable shoes using MBC compared with commercial leather shoes. This study provides valuable insights into further refinement and innovation in the sustainable footwear industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 July 2022

Fatima Iftikhar, Suleman Anis, Umar Bin Asad, Shagufta Riaz, Muntaha Rafiq and Salman Naeem

Carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS) is a hand disease caused by the pressing of the median nerve present in the palmar side of the wrist. It causes severe pain in the wrist, triggering…

Abstract

Purpose

Carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS) is a hand disease caused by the pressing of the median nerve present in the palmar side of the wrist. It causes severe pain in the wrist, triggering disturbance during sleep. Different products like splints, braces and gloves are available in the market to alleviate this disease but there was still a need to improve the wearability, comfort and cost of the product. This study was about designing a comfortable and cost-effective wearable system for mild-to-moderate CTS. Transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation (TENS) therapy has been used to reduce the pain in the wrist.

Design/methodology/approach

After simulation by using Proteus software (which allowed the researchers to draw and simulate electrical circuits using ISIS, ARES and PCB design tools virtually), the circuit with optimum frequency, i.e. 33 Hz was selected, and the circuit was developed on a printed circuit board (PCB). The developed circuit was integrated successfully into the half glove structure.

Findings

The developed product had good thermophysiological comfort and hand properties as compared to the commercially available product of the same kind. In vivo testing (It involves the testing with living subjects like animals, plants or human beings) was performed which resulted in 85% confirmed viability of the product against CTS. A glove with an integrated circuit was developed successfully to accommodate various sizes without any sex specifications in a cost-effective way to mitigate the issue of CTS.

Research limitations/implications

Industrial workers, individuals frequently using their hands or those diagnosed with CTS may wish to use this product as therapy. The attention could not be paid to the aesthetic or visual appeal of the developed product.

Originality/value

A very comfortable glove with integrated TENS electrodes was developed successfully to accommodate various sizes without any sex specifications in a cost-effective way to mitigate the issues of CTS.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 31 May 2022

Samridhi Garg, Monica Puri Sikka and Vinay Kumar Midha

Perspiration and heat are produced by the body and must be eliminated to maintain a stable body temperature. Sweat, heat and air must pass through the fabric to be comfortable…

Abstract

Purpose

Perspiration and heat are produced by the body and must be eliminated to maintain a stable body temperature. Sweat, heat and air must pass through the fabric to be comfortable. The cloth absorbs sweat and then releases it, allowing the body to chill down. By capillary action, moisture is driven away from fabric pores or sucked out of yarns. Convectional air movement improves sweat drainage, which may aid in body temperature reduction. Clothing reduces the skin's ability to transport heat and moisture to the outside. Excessive moisture makes clothing stick to the skin, whereas excessive heat induces heat stress, making the user uncomfortable. Wet heat loss is significantly more difficult to understand than dry heat loss. The purpose of this study is to provided a good compilation of complete information on wet thermal comfort of textile and technological elements to be consider while constructing protective apparel.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper aims to critically review studies on the thermal comfort of textiles in wet conditions and assess the results to guide future research.

Findings

Several recent studies focused on wet textiles' impact on comfort. Moisture reduces the fabric's thermal insulation value while also altering its moisture characteristics. Moisture and heat conductivity were linked. Sweat and other factors impact fabric comfort. So, while evaluating a fabric's comfort, consider both external and inside moisture.

Originality/value

The systematic literature review in this research focuses on wet thermal comfort and technological elements to consider while constructing protective apparel.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 May 2024

Xin Jiang and Chengxia Liu

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of…

Abstract

Purpose

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of fabrics in different directions, and it is necessary to cut samples and repeat the test several times, which takes more time. For this situation, a multidirectional visualization of the fabric bending test method is proposed, using which multiple results can be obtained at one time and the fabric bending can be visualized.

Design/methodology/approach

About 17 fabrics are tested using a self-designed device. The fabrics are cut into special triangles and multiple sets of results in three directions are obtained at once using the device. The experimental specimens are photographed from the above and the transverse elongation length, bending projection area and circumference are extracted after image processing.

Findings

The results show that the correlation coefficients of transverse elongation, bending projected area and circumference are good with the bending length measured by the cantilever method. In which, all three indicators are positively correlated with the bending length. This indicates the good feasibility of the new method.

Originality/value

This method can get the bending index of fabrics in three directions, with five samples in each direction at one time. Meanwhile, it can also visualize the flexural differences between different fabrics and directions of the same fabric. It can provide more efficient testing means for the textile testing field, and the testing efficiency is 15 times of the existing method, which has better theoretical significance and practical values.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 July 2022

Ashis Mitra

Cotton fibre lots are graded and selected for yarn spinning based on their quality value which is a function of certain fibre properties. Cotton grading and selection has created…

Abstract

Purpose

Cotton fibre lots are graded and selected for yarn spinning based on their quality value which is a function of certain fibre properties. Cotton grading and selection has created a domain of emerging interest among the researchers. Several researchers have addressed the said issue using a few exponents of multi-criteria decision-making (MCDM) technique. The purpose of this study is to demonstrate a cotton selection problem using a recently developed measurement of alternatives and ranking according to compromise solution (MARCOS) method which can handle almost any decision problem involving a finite number of alternatives and multiple conflicting decision criteria.

Design/methodology/approach

The MARCOS method of the MCDM technique was deployed in this study to rank 17 cotton fibre lots based on their quality values. Six apposite fibre properties, namely, fibre bundle strength, elongation, fineness, upper half mean length, uniformity index and short fibre content are considered as the six decision criteria assigning weights previously determined by an earlier researcher using analytic hierarchy process.

Findings

Among the 17 alternatives, C9 secured rank 1 (the best lot) with the highest utility function (0.704) and C7 occupied rank 17 (the worst lot) with the lowest utility function (0.596). Ranking given by MARCOS method showed high degree of congruence with the earlier approaches, as evidenced by high rank correlation coefficients (Rs > 0.814). During sensitivity analyses, no occurrence of rank reversal is observed. The correlations between the quality value-based ranking and the yarn tenacity-based rankings are better than many of the traditional methods. The results can be improved further by adopting other efficient method of weighting the criteria.

Practical implications

The properties of raw cotton have significant impact on the quality of final yarn. Compared to the traditional methods, MCDM is reported as the most viable solution in which fibre parameters are given their due importance while formulating a single index known as quality value. The present study demonstrates the application of a recently developed exponent of MCDM in the name of MARCOS for the first time to address a cotton fibre selection problem for textile spinning mills. The same approach can also be extended to solve other decision problems of the textile industry, in general.

Originality/value

Novelty of the present study lies in the fact that the MARCOS is a very recently developed MCDM method, and this is a maiden application of the MARCOS method in the domain of textile, in general, and cotton industry, in particular. The approach is very simple, highly effective and quite flexible in terms of number of alternatives and decision criteria, although highly robust and stable.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 May 2022

Lucas B. Nhelekwa, Joshua Z. Mollel and Ismail W.R. Taifa

Industry 4.0 has an inimitable potential to create competitive advantages for the apparel industry by enhancing productivity, production, profitability, efficiency and…

Abstract

Purpose

Industry 4.0 has an inimitable potential to create competitive advantages for the apparel industry by enhancing productivity, production, profitability, efficiency and effectiveness. This study, thus, aims to assess the digitalisation level of the Tanzanian apparel industry through the Industry 4.0 perspectives.

Design/methodology/approach

A mixed-methods-based approach was deployed. This study deployed semi-structured interviews, document review and observation methods for the qualitative approach. For the quantitative approach, closed-ended questionnaires were used to ascertain the digitalisation levels and maturity level of the textiles and apparel (T&A) factories and small and medium-sized textile enterprises in Tanzania. The sample size was 110, with participants engaged through the purposive sampling technique.

Findings

Industry 4.0 frameworks evolved into practices mainly since 2011 in several service and manufacturing industries globally. For Tanzania, the findings indicate that the overall maturity level of the T&A industries is 2.5 out of 5.0, demonstrating a medium level of adoption. Thus, the apparel industries are not operating under the industry 4.0 framework; they are operating within the third industrial revolution – Industry 3.0 – framework. For such industries to operate within the fourth industrial revolution – Industry 4.0 – that is only possible if there is significantly well-developed industrial infrastructure, availability of engineering talent, stable commercial partnerships, demand from the marketplace and transactional relationship with customers.

Research limitations/implications

This study’s limitations include: firstly, Industry 4.0 is an emerging area; this resulted in limited theoretical underpinnings in the Tanzanian perspectives. Secondly, the studied industries may not suffice the need to generalise the findings for the entire country, thus needing another study.

Originality/value

Although Industry 4.0 conceptual frameworks have been on trial in several industries since 2011, this is amongst the first empirical research on Industry 4.0 in the Tanzanian apparel industry that assesses the digitalisation levels.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 3 April 2024

Juan D. Borrero and Shumaila Yousafzai

The shift toward a circular economy (CE) represents a collaborative endeavor necessitating the presence of efficient frameworks, conducive contexts and a common comprehension…

Abstract

Purpose

The shift toward a circular economy (CE) represents a collaborative endeavor necessitating the presence of efficient frameworks, conducive contexts and a common comprehension. This research serves as a pivotal stride towards this goal, presenting an exclusive prospect for the investigation and fusion of these frameworks, with particular emphasis on the Quintuple Helix Model (5HM), into a unified theoretical framework that underscores the core principles of the CE. This study is centered on three pivotal questions aimed at decoding the CE transition in specific regional settings.

Design/methodology/approach

Adopting an abductive approach firmly anchored in a two-stage qualitative process, this study specifically merges the foundational principles from institutional theory, entrepreneurship literature and CE frameworks to provide insights into the dynamics of circular ecosystems, with a specific focus on the Huelva region in Spain.

Findings

The findings demonstrate significant potential in the CE, ranging from the integration of product and service systems to innovations in eco-industrial practices. Yet, a notable deficiency exists: the absence of institutional entrepreneurs, highlighting the essential role that universities can play. As recognized centers of innovation, universities are suggested to be key contributors to the transformation toward a CE, aligning with their societal and economic responsibilities.

Practical implications

This study highlights the importance of managing relationships with entities like SMEs and policymakers or academia for effective CE adoption. Policymakers can refine strategies based on the research’s insights, while the impact of university-driven circular ecosystems on sustainable societies is another crucial area for research.

Originality/value

The sustainability models cited in CE literature may not be comprehensive enough to prevent problem shifting, and it can be argued that they lack a sound theoretical and conceptual basis. Furthermore, the connections between sustainability objectives and the three levels of the CE operating system remain vague. Additionally, there is insufficient information on how regions foster the involvement of the environment in fivefold helix cooperation and how this impacts the CE.

Book part
Publication date: 20 May 2024

Rajni Bala

Introduction: Sustainable marketing practices foster a company and its stakeholders’ environmental, social, and economic well-being while promoting products and services. An…

Abstract

Introduction: Sustainable marketing practices foster a company and its stakeholders’ environmental, social, and economic well-being while promoting products and services. An integrated approach to sustainability recognises these three interdependent pillars, seeking to unite together. Investing in renewable energy has triple-bottom-line benefits – reducing greenhouse gas emissions, creating jobs, and promoting economic growth. Sustainable marketing practices can be a win-win for companies and the environment.

Need of the Study: Studying and understanding the sustainable development goals (SDGs) are crucial for India and worldwide. Sustainable marketing is becoming increasingly important for companies as they seek to meet the growing demand for sustainable products and services. Sustainable marketing practices can help businesses reduce environmental impact, promoting eco-friendly products and services.

Purpose of the Study: The study focused on achieving the SDGs requires addressing all three pillars of sustainability together. The study explored the different sustainable marketing practices that companies adopt worldwide, how they contribute to environmental, social and economic stability, the benefits of such practices, and the challenges companies face in implementing them.

Methodology: The study is based on secondary data – 10 companies, out of which 5 brands are among the top 10 brands (Souromi, 2023) and 5 are within the top 20 international sustainable brands (Fashinza, 2020) belonging to the textile industry worldwide, were chosen and their sustainable marketing practices were identified and analysed.

Findings: The study highlights standard sustainable marketing practices adopted by different companies worldwide in the textile industry, exploring the contribution of sustainable marketing practices in achieving SDGs.

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2022

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

157

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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