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Article
Publication date: 21 May 2024

Chaitali Brahma, Bhaskar Saha and Anirban Chowdhury

The purpose of this study is to empower a tradition Bodo attire Dokhona skilled artisan for their livelihoods and preserve cultural and historical legacy by using new themes…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to empower a tradition Bodo attire Dokhona skilled artisan for their livelihoods and preserve cultural and historical legacy by using new themes influenced by Bodo items.

Design/methodology/approach

To revive the traditional Bodo artefacts by adapting a varied form of motifs inspired from Bodo artefacts which showcases Bodo identity.

Findings

Motifs implemented in apparel (e.g. Dokhona) inspired from Bodo traditional tools and musical instruments, signifying Bodo identity. Such apparels could be purchased by Bodo consumers as they are very keen to sustain their culture and heritage through motifs weaved in their traditional apparel. This study also proves that Dokhona designed with novel motifs developed from traditional artefacts are better than currently available designs of Dokhona as these were more aesthetic and contemporary in look.

Social implications

The motif adapted from traditional artefacts would motivate the weavers to weave innovative motif designs in their apparel bringing some newness in the Bodo traditional attire Dokhona, leads to business and women empowerment.

Originality/value

This study showed the way to create innovative ideas for designing apparel (e.g. Dokhona) from cultural artefacts and helps prospective textile and apparel designers to design sustainable Dokhona.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2021

Sudha Panda and Soumyendu Shankar Ray

The research aims to explore the wisdom, knowledge and practices in vernacular housing settlements with their sustainability underpinnings as tools for modelling rural affordable…

Abstract

Purpose

The research aims to explore the wisdom, knowledge and practices in vernacular housing settlements with their sustainability underpinnings as tools for modelling rural affordable housing in tropical regions. The study is based on a weaving settlement in Bargarh district of Odisha, which is globally acclaimed for its Ikkat style of weaving.

Design/methodology/approach

A hierarchical framework of sustainability resting on the three pillars of ecological, economical and environmental dimensions is derived from existing theoretical research. This framework of 22 indicators is subsequently assigned to assess the sustainability of the vernacular weavers' settlement through quantitative evaluation. A qualitative assessment through observation and deduction also verifies the result.

Findings

Since the vernacular weavers settlement performs very well on the sustainability scorecard, the paper suggests that its best practices can be incorporated while designing affordable housing so that social, cultural and heritage values are retained and a climate conscious, energy-efficient sustainable approach is ensured.

Practical implications

The recommendations from the assessment has many lessons while framing policies for rural affordable housing as it cannot have one size that fits all settlement typology irrespective of the occupational, climatic and social needs.

Originality/value

The sustainable design and planning principles embedded in this vernacular settlement offers a valuable blueprint to re-imagine the affordable housing in rural areas which can be myopic if it does not take into account the occupational needs and life style of craftsmen dwellers.

Details

Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, vol. 13 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2044-1266

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 May 2024

Georgy Sunny and T. Palani Rajan

The purpose of the project is to explore the biosoftening of raw areca nut fibers using two different biological retting methods and assess their impact on fiber properties for…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of the project is to explore the biosoftening of raw areca nut fibers using two different biological retting methods and assess their impact on fiber properties for improved spinning. The study aims to contribute to the fashion industry’s shift toward sustainability.

Design/methodology/approach

The project involves collecting raw brown areca shells, subjecting them to two retting methods (stagnant water retting and changing water daily retting) and then extracting and drying the fibers. Various physical and chemical properties of the fibers are measured to evaluate their suitability for spinning.

Findings

The stagnant water retting method, especially the fibers obtained on the second day, showed improved properties in terms of fiber strength, elongation, fineness and cellulose content, making them suitable for spinning applications. The method also resulted in better moisture regain.

Research limitations/implications

The study focused on two retting methods and a limited timeframe. Further research could explore additional techniques and durations. The labor-intensive nature of the daily changing water retting method may have implications for scalability.

Practical implications

The project demonstrates a cost-effective and sustainable method for converting agricultural waste (areca nut husks) into valuable fibers suitable for various end users.

Social implications

The research supports the fashion industry’s sustainability efforts by promoting the use of eco-friendly natural fibers, potentially benefiting rural farming communities.

Originality/value

The project highlights the innovative use of areca nut fibers and their potential to contribute to sustainable fashion. The stagnant water retting method is presented as a reliable and effective approach for improving fiber properties. Additionally, all fiber testing was exclusively conducted at the South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), with sponsorship from the industry and support from the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 July 2023

Zulfiqar Ali Raza, Aisha Rehman, Faiza Anwar and Naseer Ahmad

This study aims to investigate the effect of the copresence of ferrous (Fe2+) ions and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) on the activity of an amylase enzyme during the desizing of…

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Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the effect of the copresence of ferrous (Fe2+) ions and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) on the activity of an amylase enzyme during the desizing of greige viscose fabric for potential industrial applications. The removal of starches is an essential step before processing the fabric for dyeing and finishing operations. The authors tend to accomplish it in eco-friendly and sustainable ways.

Design/methodology/approach

The experiments were designed under the Taguchi approach, and the results were analyzed using grey relational analysis to optimize the process. The textile properties of absorbency, reducing sugars, bending length, weight loss, Tegawa rating and tensile strength were assessed using the standard protocols. The control and optimized viscose specimens were investigated for certain surface chemical properties using advanced analytical techniques including scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA).

Findings

The results demonstrate that the Fe2+ concentration and process time were the main influencing factors in the amylolytic desizing of viscose fabric. The optimized process conditions were found to be 0.1 mm Fe2+ ions, 3 mm SDS, 80°C, 7 pH and 30 min process time. The copresence of Fe2+ ions and SDS promoted the biodesizing of viscose fabric. The SEM, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, XRD and TGA results demonstrated that the sizing agent has efficiently been removed from the fabric surface.

Practical implications

The amylase desizing of viscose fabric in the presence of certain metal ions and surfactants is a significant subject as the enzyme may face them due to their prevalence in the water systems. This could also support the biodesizing and bioscouring operations to be done in one bath, thus making the textile pretreatment process both economical and environmentally sustainable.

Originality/value

The authors found no report on the biodesizing of viscose fabric in the copresence of Fe2+ ions and the SDS surfactant under statistical multiresponse optimization. The biodesized viscose fabric has been investigated using both conventional and analytical approaches.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 May 2022

Sayed Gulzar Ganai, Javid Ahmad Khan and Showkat Ahmad Bhat

The export competitiveness has only calculated on only two aspects either comparatively advantageous or comparatively disadvantageous products for India or China. There is not any…

Abstract

Purpose

The export competitiveness has only calculated on only two aspects either comparatively advantageous or comparatively disadvantageous products for India or China. There is not any thorough study that has been undertaken for Indian manufacturing sector at a segregated level along with that of China. So, in the light of these shortcomings, the purpose of this study is to analyse the dynamics of export competitiveness of indian manufacturing sector vis-à-vis its emerging counterpart, china in the global market.

Design/methodology/approach

A modified revealed comparative advantage index has been used in two different phases of 2001–08 and 2010–18 to find the dynamic pattern of manufacturing exports of India and China in the world market.

Findings

The study revealed that India has shown a positive response in increasing its competitive positioned products from low-technology to medium-technology products during the study period. There has been a decline in the competitive positioned products of China and simultaneously China’s threatened product lines have shown an immense increment over the years. Moreover, Indian exports are concentrated to few low-technology and resource-intensive products, that share more than 50% of total exported value for its manufacturing in the global market, whereas, China is much diversified and the exported value is more scattered over its manufactured items.

Research limitations/implications

The study does not include the factors that impacted the export competitiveness of the sample economies and thus adds a limitation to this study.

Originality/value

As there is very limited research on dynamics of export competitiveness of Indian manufacturing exports at harmonised system 6-digit level with China, this study fulfils the gap.

Details

Competitiveness Review: An International Business Journal , vol. 33 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1059-5422

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 25 April 2024

Ilse Valenzuela Matus, Jorge Lino Alves, Joaquim Góis, Paulo Vaz-Pires and Augusto Barata da Rocha

The purpose of this paper is to review cases of artificial reefs built through additive manufacturing (AM) technologies and analyse their ecological goals, fabrication process…

606

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to review cases of artificial reefs built through additive manufacturing (AM) technologies and analyse their ecological goals, fabrication process, materials, structural design features and implementation location to determine predominant parameters, environmental impacts, advantages, and limitations.

Design/methodology/approach

The review analysed 16 cases of artificial reefs from both temperate and tropical regions. These were categorised based on the AM process used, the mortar material used (crucial for biological applications), the structural design features and the location of implementation. These parameters are assessed to determine how effectively the designs meet the stipulated ecological goals, how AM technologies demonstrate their potential in comparison to conventional methods and the preference locations of these implementations.

Findings

The overview revealed that the dominant artificial reef implementation occurs in the Mediterranean and Atlantic Seas, both accounting for 24%. The remaining cases were in the Australian Sea (20%), the South Asia Sea (12%), the Persian Gulf and the Pacific Ocean, both with 8%, and the Indian Sea with 4% of all the cases studied. It was concluded that fused filament fabrication, binder jetting and material extrusion represent the main AM processes used to build artificial reefs. Cementitious materials, ceramics, polymers and geopolymer formulations were used, incorporating aggregates from mineral residues, biological wastes and pozzolan materials, to reduce environmental impacts, promote the circular economy and be more beneficial for marine ecosystems. The evaluation ranking assessed how well their design and materials align with their ecological goals, demonstrating that five cases were ranked with high effectiveness, ten projects with moderate effectiveness and one case with low effectiveness.

Originality/value

AM represents an innovative method for marine restoration and management. It offers a rapid prototyping technique for design validation and enables the creation of highly complex shapes for habitat diversification while incorporating a diverse range of materials to benefit environmental and marine species’ habitats.

Details

Rapid Prototyping Journal, vol. 30 no. 11
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1355-2546

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 November 2022

Eman Salim

The aim of the present paper to compare the cleaning treatments of paper samples exposed to artificial aging, toluene and isopropyl alcohol gel in cleaning wax stains.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of the present paper to compare the cleaning treatments of paper samples exposed to artificial aging, toluene and isopropyl alcohol gel in cleaning wax stains.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, paper samples were made from wood pulp. They had a deterioration phenomenon represented in the stains of the paraffin wax, so two types of cleaning were used: A traditional method using a toluene solution and another new method using isopropanol gel by a cotton swap in a circular movement until the completion of the cleaning process. Then, all paper samples were treated with toluene and isopropanol to handle the second artificial aging and detect how the samples were affected by artificial aging. For identifying the efficacy of these materials in removing paraffin wax stains, a range of examinations and analyses were used, such as universal serial bus, scanning electron microscope, infrared analysis (IR), pH analysis, color change analysis. Moreover, these results were compared with the standard sample’s results.

Findings

The results of examinations and analyses proved that the use of toluene affected the paper samples. Their effects were twice as weak, fragile and degraded paper fibers compared to isopropanol gel. Therefore, the isopropanol gel is preferred for paper cleaning to the toluene solution.

Originality/value

This paper highlights the efficiency of isopropyl alcohol gel in cleaning wax stains from historical paper supports.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 April 2023

Yang Yang, Weijing Zhang, Zheng Liu and Peihua Zhang

The purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper eight bi-layer knitted fabrics with the same knitting structure but different filament compositions were prepared, and the thermal-wet comfort properties of these fabrics were examined. According to experimental data, the effect of filament composition on the thermal comfort properties of fabric was analyzed.

Findings

The increasing difference of hydrophilicity between inner and outer layers resulted in the enhancement of moisture management properties. Better thermal-physiology performance was exhibited by fabrics made up of finer and circular section fibers. Excellent thermal transfer, drying performance and one-way water transport capacity benefited the improvement of dynamic cooling effect of fabrics.

Originality/value

This work provides a useful and effective method for the development of bi-layer knitted fabric applied for sports and summer clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 November 2023

Timothy Anakwa Osei, Samuel A. Donkoh, Isaac Gershon Kodwo Ansah, Joseph A. Awuni and Mensah Tawiah Cobbinah

Promoted for its inclusivity, agricultural value chain (AVC) financing leverages social capital and mechanisms such as off-take agreements and forward contracts to reduce…

Abstract

Purpose

Promoted for its inclusivity, agricultural value chain (AVC) financing leverages social capital and mechanisms such as off-take agreements and forward contracts to reduce borrowing and lending costs and risks for both farmers and lending institutions. AVC financing has been defined as the flow of financial products and services to and among the various actors within the AVC to address constraints of production and distribution and fulfill the needs of those involved in the chain by reducing risk and improving efficiency. This paper investigates how farmers' involvement in AVC affects their access to credit.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors collected primary data from 400 crop farmers in northern Ghana through a semi-structured questionnaire and analyzed the data, using the multinomial endogenous switching regression model.

Findings

Joint participation in AVC increased the amount of formal and informal credit received by 64 and 78%, respectively, compared to nonparticipation. Similarly, participation in AVC horizontal linkage and AVC vertical linkage increased the amount of formal and informal credit received by 40 and 47% and 46 and 74%, respectively, compared to nonparticipation. Irrigation farming, extension visits, knowledge of AVC in the community, access to a storage facility and trust in contract farming significantly influenced farmers' participation in AVC.

Originality/value

The authors’ work offers valuable insights into how different dimensions of value chain participation can impact smallholder farmers' access to credit. This work also underscores the importance of considering both formal and informal credit sources when analyzing the outcomes of value chain participation. The findings could enable formal financial providers to identify, liaise and/or resource informal financial players such as value chain actors to supply both formal and informal credit to farmers in AVCs.

Details

Agricultural Finance Review, vol. 83 no. 4/5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0002-1466

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 March 2024

Anupam Saxena, Sugandha Shanker, Deepa Sethi, Manisha Seth and Anurag Saxena

This study was conducted to analyse the socio-ecological problems faced by the Suhelwa Wildlife Sanctuary and understand its potential and challenges for developing ecotourism…

Abstract

Purpose

This study was conducted to analyse the socio-ecological problems faced by the Suhelwa Wildlife Sanctuary and understand its potential and challenges for developing ecotourism following Triple Bottom Line (TBL) principles. The study also benchmarked best ecotourism practices across the globe to create an ecotourism plan that would provide alternative livelihood and help in sustainable management of the area by reducing poverty, dependency on forests and biodiversity protection.

Design/methodology/approach

Suhelwa Wildlife Sanctuary was chosen because this area has several socio-ecological crises with limited livelihood options, and there is an urgent need for alternative livelihood opportunities in the form of ecotourism. The study followed an ethnographic approach through observation, participant observation, and semi-structured interviews. Content and thematic analysis was conducted through Atlas Ti9.0 software for data analysis. Subsequently, benchmarking best ecotourism practices through a literature review was done to develop an ecotourism action plan.

Findings

The First finding was related to the study area divided into three themes: problems, potential for ecotourism development, and challenges for ecotourism development. The second finding was related to benchmarking best practices and suggesting an action plan.

Originality/value

This work studied an area not sufficiently acknowledged by academicians and policymakers concerning ecotourism development. The work also benchmarks the best practices for ecotourism and proposes a sight-specific ecotourism action plan in accordance with TBL.

Details

Benchmarking: An International Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1463-5771

Keywords

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