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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2008

Afaf Farag Shahba

Different types of curtain fabrics were subject to a long lasting treatment. These fabrics are generally used in the manufacture of curtain fabrics, namely 100% cotton…

Abstract

Different types of curtain fabrics were subject to a long lasting treatment. These fabrics are generally used in the manufacture of curtain fabrics, namely 100% cotton, cotton/viscose, cotton/linen and cotton/polyester. In addition to these fabrics, polyester/linen and polyester/viscose blend fabrics were also used. All these fabrics were separately functionalized with monochlorotriazenyl β-cyclodextrin (R-β-CD) and then treated with citronella oil or camphor. The perfumed curtain fabrics were evaluated for smell intensity during almost six months, retained tensile strength and durability of odour (smell) against several washing cycles. Results obtained show that the odour retention of functionalized curtain fabrics is dependent on the amount of β-CD moieties on the curtain fabrics (expressed as nitrogen content).

Unmodified curtain fabric lost its odour after 2 months and the smell intensity was approximately zero. It was also found that at the same nitrogen content (i.e., same amount of β-CD moieties on the fabrics); the odour retention of modified curtain fabrics treated with either citronella oil or camphor was identical. In addition, cellulosic-based curtain fabrics (100% cotton, cotton/viscose and cotton/linen fabrics) showed higher odour retention after 6 months and higher resistance against washing compared with polyester-based curtain fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 May 2024

Xin Jiang and Chengxia Liu

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of fabrics

Abstract

Purpose

The current bending test method can only test the bending performance of fabric in one direction at a time. It is not possible to directly observe the bending morphology of fabrics in different directions, and it is necessary to cut samples and repeat the test several times, which takes more time. For this situation, a multidirectional visualization of the fabric bending test method is proposed, using which multiple results can be obtained at one time and the fabric bending can be visualized.

Design/methodology/approach

About 17 fabrics are tested using a self-designed device. The fabrics are cut into special triangles and multiple sets of results in three directions are obtained at once using the device. The experimental specimens are photographed from the above and the transverse elongation length, bending projection area and circumference are extracted after image processing.

Findings

The results show that the correlation coefficients of transverse elongation, bending projected area and circumference are good with the bending length measured by the cantilever method. In which, all three indicators are positively correlated with the bending length. This indicates the good feasibility of the new method.

Originality/value

This method can get the bending index of fabrics in three directions, with five samples in each direction at one time. Meanwhile, it can also visualize the flexural differences between different fabrics and directions of the same fabric. It can provide more efficient testing means for the textile testing field, and the testing efficiency is 15 times of the existing method, which has better theoretical significance and practical values.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 1992

C. Garrison, R. Thackeray and S. Mangum

Soil and stain removal has always been a contributing factor in the acceptance of a neat and clean appearance for most types of wearing apparel. Investigates the strength and…

Abstract

Soil and stain removal has always been a contributing factor in the acceptance of a neat and clean appearance for most types of wearing apparel. Investigates the strength and whiteness retention and degree of stain removal of representative nurse‐uniform fabrics, after removal of selected medicinal and other dye‐based stains. Although many fabric properties affect the ease of soil removal or the retention of fabric strength, the objective was to compare the serviceability of twill versus rib weave fabrics and soil‐release versus non‐soil‐release finished fabrics. Of the stains tested, the most problematic stain was that created by permanent marker. Although removed in the early stages of testing, it became increasingly difficult to maintain fabric whiteness.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 4 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Iwona Frydrych and Agnieszka Greszta

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine…

Abstract

Purpose

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

Design/methodology/approach

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

Originality/value

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2000

S. Kawabata, Masako Niwa, R. Koztowsky, S. Manys, K. Nakano and Takako Inoue

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made…

Abstract

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1995

Roshan L. Shishoo

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of…

994

Abstract

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 7 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 1994

S.D. McWaters, T.G. Clapp and J.W. Eischen

Introduces and evaluates a finite‐element computer model which predicts the bending behaviour of fabric in contact with a surface, in order to optimize the design of equipment…

269

Abstract

Introduces and evaluates a finite‐element computer model which predicts the bending behaviour of fabric in contact with a surface, in order to optimize the design of equipment used for automated processing of apparel. Describes how simulations were executed for all combinations of eight fabrics and three contact surfaces, and presents the experimental results obtained for similar conditions and fabrics. Proves the validity of the computer model by comparing the experimental results with those obtained by simulation. Describes how the computer model could be used to choose the optimum diameter of a fabric feeder picking roller.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2002

A. Mukhopadyhay, A.K. Dash and V.K. Kothari

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With…

Abstract

The effect of pick density, constituent filament fineness and heat‐setting on the fabric thickness and compressional properties have been studied before and after laundering. With the increase in pick density fabric thickness, compression and compressibility increases up to a certain extent. Coarser filament textured yarn fabric have higher thickness, compression and compressibility than that of finer filament textured yarn fabrics. Heat‐set fabrics possess higher thickness, compression and compressibility than the grey textured yarn fabrics. However, fabric compressional recovery and resiliency are mainly influenced by the fabric pick density rather than the effect of heat‐setting and filament fineness of constituent textured yarns. On laundering, fabric thickness, compression and compressibility improve particularly for the fabric of lower pick density. The effect of laundering is marginal on fabric compressional recovery and resiliency.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 June 2016

Rajesh Mishra, Arumugam Veerakumar and Jiri Militky

– The purpose of this paper is to investigate effect of material properties in 3D knitted fabrics on thermo-physiological comfort.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate effect of material properties in 3D knitted fabrics on thermo-physiological comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

In the present study six different spacer fabrics were developed. Among these six fabrics, it was classified into two groups for convenient analysis of results, the first group has been developed using polyester/polypropylene blend with three different proportion and second group with polyester/polypropylene/lycra blend having another three different composition. As a spacer yarn, three different types of 88 dtex polyester monofilament yarn and polyester multifilament yarns (167 dtex and 14.5 tex) were used and 14.5 tex polypropylene and 44 dtex lycra multifilament yarns were also used for the face and back side of the spacer fabrics (Table I). These fabrics were developed in Syntax Pvt Ltd Czech Republic.

Findings

The main influence on the water vapour permeability of warp knitted spacer fabrics is the kind of raw material, i.e. fibre wetting and wicking. Also there is no correlation between air permeability and water vapour permeability. It is found that both air permeability and thermal conductivity are closely related to the fabric density. It is also found that the fabric characteristics of spacer fabric show a very significant effect on the air permeability, thermal conductivity and mechanical properties of spacer fabric. Therefore, selection of spacer fabric for winter clothing according to its fabric characteristics.

Practical implications

The main objective of the present study is to produce spacer knitted 3D fabrics suitable for defined climatic conditions to be used as clothing or in sports goods.

Originality/value

New 3D knitted spacer fabrics can be produced with improved comfort properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 September 2016

Mani Senthilkumar and L. Ashok Kumar

The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric grams per square metre (GSM) measurement. This study uses the capacitance principle to obtain the fabric GSM. The relative permittivity of the sample fabrics changes the capacitance value. A relationship between capacitance and GSM that best fits the look-up table is obtained. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

Design/methodology/approach

The purpose of the study is to design and develop an instrument for non-destructive fabric GSM measurement.

Findings

The proposed non-destructive method of fabric GSM measurement using capacitance principle is designed, developed and tested. Also, the developed system is applicable for all kind of fabrics both knitted and woven fabrics. The comparison study was carried out with existing test method.

Research limitations/implications

The change in capacitance due to relative permittivity of the sample fabric is in pF range (10-12). The system can be further improved by using a capacitance sensor of sensitivity upto 1 fF (10-15). By doing so, the proposed system provides better results in terms of accuracy and resolution. The system developed can be further extended by making it online equipment which measures the fabric GSM instantaneously.

Originality/value

So far there is no non-destructive testing method available for fabric weight measurement. The newly designed and developed instrument is used to test the fabric both woven and knitted non-destructively.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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