Search results

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

The purpose of this paper is to examine ladies' linen fabrics produced in different regions – Japan, Italy, and Poland – to ascertain differences in mechanical, thermal, and air permeability properties.

The paper investigates mechanical properties, air permeability, and thermal conductivity. The silhouettes of Polish, Italian, and Japanese linen fabrics are different. The thermal conductivities of the Polish linen fabrics are high. The levels of 72 elements were analyzed and remarkable differences were observed in the levels of 16 elements, including Li, Al, Si, Ti, Cr, Ni, Rb, and Y, Ag, among Polish, Italian linen fabrics, and linen fabrics made in Japan. Another ten elements were detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan.

There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

This paper is a wide world regional study of linen characterisation.

Another ten elements are detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan. There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

The paper presents useful Measurement instrumentation, analysis and characterisation of linen fabrics from different regions of the world.

To explore the use of power ultrasound as an environmentally friendly heating technology for the pre‐treatment of linen fibres with sodium perborate as the halogen free oxidising agent and to study the impact of this process on its dyeability with reactive dyes.

Exploiting power ultrasound in the wet processes of linen fibres was made in two steps, i.e. ultrasonic pre‐treatment with sodium perborate followed by ultrasonic dyeing with reactive dyes. Therefore, comparative studies between conventional and ultrasonic techniques as well as the different factors that may affect these processes were investigated. The effect of the pre‐treatment on fibre fine structure using X‐ray diffraction technique was also investigated.

The results of the increase of whiteness index indicate that ultrasonic pre‐treatment was better at all studied treatment times and at low temperature. X‐ray diffraction studies on blank, ultrasonically and conventionally pre‐treated linen fibres have shown 70.41, 67.51 and 64.90 per cent crystallinity, respectively. The dyeing of the pre‐treated fibres with Reactive Red 24 was simultaneously carried out under both ultrasonic and conventional heating conditions to study the effect of dye concentrations at different dyeing temperatures. The colour strength values obtained for the dyed samples using ultrasonic at 50°C were slightly higher than those obtained using conventional heating at 80°C. Ultrasonic enhancement in the pre‐treatment and dyeing in terms of the percent increase of colour strength of the dyed fabric was estimated to be 157.94 per cent higher than that of conventional heating method. The results of wet fastness properties of the dyed fibres using ultrasonic revealed improvement relative to those obtained using conventional heating method.

The improved wet processes of linen fibres suggest further investigation to exploit power ultrasound in the wet processes of cellulosic fibres at low temperature using different classes of halogen free bleaching agents and dyeing with different classes of heat‐requiring reactive dyes. Also, this work may inspire the synthesis of new generation of heat‐requiring reactive dyes.

The work presented has significant potential industrial application for cleaner production in textile industries.

The present study of linen pre‐treatment with non‐toxic total chlorine free oxidising agent and its dyeability with reactive dyes using power ultrasound is novel and could be used in the wet processes of linen fibres.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers.

In total, 60 garments were tested with four boys (five to eight years old): two with AD and two healthy kids using circular knitting occlusive structure (OS) 28-gauge and non-occlusive structure (NOS) 12-gauge with cotton, polyester staple and linen yarns. Air and water vapor permeability fabric results were analyzed using ANOVA method and occlusive levels correlated with thickness and UPF rates. Skin irritation levels were evaluated with Patient-Oriented SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) self-assessment tool and for body temperature measurements infrared cameras were used. The authors standardized hygiene products; laundry procedures and soaps were previously identified and measured for their pH and skin irritation history with wearers.

Lower skinbody temperature (−2.6°C-−2.8°C) and PO-SCORAD values (16.1-22.8) during use by AD volunteers suggest promoting both wear tolerance (WT) and NOS preference. Air permeability of 3,222 l/m²s with NOS knitted linen as at least 48 percent higher than tested fibers indicating AD volunteers preference during hot climate (24°C to 37°C and 54 to 69 percent RH). Control healthy volunteers were less sensitive to NOS (−1.3°C-−1.6°C) and hot feeling polyester was detected in use. UPF confirms open loops of NOS (NOS UPF 10-5 vs OS UPF 25-15). Thickness (0.6 to 1.0 mm) and RET values (3.1-3.8) were both without significance for this study.

Due to the experimental character of this study with a reduced group of two AD volunteers, wear test conclusion is limited to these specific boys. Work extension aiming at broad AD wears statistics significance should consider more volunteers.

The study provides specific answers to opening new possibilities for AD wear other than cotton or polyester, both fibers with more availability in the Brazilian garments retail industry that sometimes did not meet their routine needs. This study provides practical daily understanding of correlations of WT and air permeability level of NOS knitted applied to garments in direct contact with the skin in subtropical climates.

Both academically and socially, the results can contribute to increasing information related to textile process and practical knowledge of knits to better accomplish AD clothing in subtropical climates. The practical wear test results with AD volunteers also indicate guidelines to parents who were having trouble identifying base layers, fundamental textiles and options for their kids in search of possible relief and well being mainly on hot days.

Circular knitting jersey linen study in direct contact with sensitive skin in a subtropical climate city like São Paulo is unique. The study also considered helping parents of a six-year-old AD boy in attendance to a doctor’s suggestion to find better options of clothings to be used during his daily routines.

Mill scoured and bleached linen fabrics were cationized using Quat-188. Cationization was carried out as per the exhaustion or the cold pad-batch technique under a variety of conditions. Factors affecting the cationization reaction of linen fabric were studied. These factors include Quat-188 concentration, NaOH concentration (or pH of the reaction medium in case of exhaustion method), reaction time and temperature as well as material to liquor ratio (in case of exhaustion method). The cationized samples were monitored for nitrogen content, and the reaction efficiency calculated thereof, as well as for K/S of the no-salt dyed samples. Results obtained indicate that the efficiency of cationization of linen fabric with Quat-188 depends on the type of application technique and the conditions used in each technique. Using the exhaustion technique, maximum reaction efficiency between Quat-188 and linen fabric was achieved at Quat-188, 80 g/1 and pH, 13 and 70°C for 60 minutes using material to liquor ratio, 1:20. Lower material to liquor ratio was not practically possible. The results also depict that any deviation from these conditions, for example, higher pH, temperature or material to liquor ratio, leads to an increase in the hydrolysis of Quat-188 molecules and hence, lower reaction efficiency. With the cold pad-batch technique, maximum reaction efficiency was achieved when the linen fabric was padded in a solution containing NaOH, 50 g/1 and Quat-188, 125 g/1, then squeezed to a wet pickup of 100% and batched for 15 hours. Results obtained also signify that both dry and wet wrinkle recovery angles increase as the degree of cationization (expressed as N % of cationized linen fabric) increases. Moreover, the tensile strength of cationized linen fabric is higher than that of uncationized linen and such an increase depends on the degree of cationization.

Linen fabrics were cationized using 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride in alkaline medium. The cationized linen fabrics were dyed independently, with different dyestuffs, namely reactive, direct and acid dyes in absence of salt (no-salt dyed). Factors affecting the nosalt dyeing process of cationized linen fabrics were investigated. These factors included dye concentration, pH of the dyeing bath, dyeing temperature and time as well as the chemical nature of the dyes used. The dyed samples were monitored for color strength (K/S) after soaping and after DMF extraction as well as fastness properties. It was found that for all dyestuffs used, the magnitude of K/S of the dyed samples depends on the nature of the dyes and the conditions used in each case. It was also seen that for no-salt dyeing of cationized linen fabrics, the maximum K/S was achieved at dye shade 2.5 % (ows) and dye bath’s pH 7-9, at 60°C for 20 minutes. In addition to this, the color strength was much higher in case of cationized and no-salt dyed samples compared with the uncationized and traditionally salt-dyed linen fabrics; meanwhile, the overall fastness properties were comparable. Microscopic examination of the cationized and no-salt dyed linen fabrics showed an excellent dye penetration and no evidence for the ring dye phenomena was observed.

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed.

The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here.

The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m² of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively.

This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m² will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control.

There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.

The study aims to test the color fastness of wool and linen fabrics dyed by simple immersion in ethanol dissolutions of fungal dyes.

Ethanol dissolutions of Talaromyces australis and Penicillium murcianum dyes were prepared to a concentration of 0.3% and used to dye wool and linen samples by immersion. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, wet and dry rubbing, perspiration and light, were tested according to AATCC standards.

Color fastness reached acceptable results at dry cleaning and wet and dry rubbing by crocking but did not performed well at laundering, perspiration and light exposure. Results indicate that ethanol dissolutions of tested dyes had better affinity for wool fabrics than linen, but the dyeing method requires further improvements to be considered attractive for full scale applications.

In this work sustainability of fabrics dyeing is improved by using natural pigments produced by filamentous fungi and a method to dye that requires no increment of temperature and mordants.

Unmodified linen fabric is cationized through the reaction of two different commercial cationizing agents, 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (CHTAC) and polyaminochlorohydrin quaternary ammonium salt with epoxide functionality (PAQAC). Uncationized and cationized linen fabrics are dyed with four different types of fiber reactive dyes by using the cold pad batch dyeing method. The fastness properties of the dyed cationized linen fabrics have been evaluated.

This quasi-experimental study aimed to investigate, drawing upon influential discounting behavior theory and cognition – affect – behavior (C-A-B) paradigm, consumers’ reactions to the phenomenon of “greenwashing” in the lodging industry. More specifically, this paper proposed and tested a theoretical model that examined whether recognizing the ulterior motive caused consumer skepticism about hotels’ environmental claims, which in turn influenced consumers’ intention to participate in linen reuse program and intention to revisit the hotel. Additionally, the moderating effects of ecological concern on the relationship between skepticism and intention to participate and between skepticism and intention to revisit were examined.

A quasi-experimental design was used with two conditions (control vs ulterior motive) employing staff members of a US public university as study participants. In total, 638 useful responses were received.

The results of this study revealed that an ulterior motive of hotels’ environmental claims evoked consumer skepticism, which, in turn, negatively influenced consumers’ intention to participate in the linen reuse program and intention to revisit the hotel. Skepticism was found to partially mediate the relationships between ulterior motive and intention to participate and between ulterior motive and intention to revisit. Consumers’ ecological concern was not found to moderate the relationship between skepticism and intention to participate in the linen reuse program and skepticism and intention to revisit the hotel. In addition, a significant positive direct effect between ecological concern and intention to participate and a non-significant effect between ecological concern and revisit intention were revealed.

Focus on consumers’ response to the ulterior motive of environmental claims advances an understanding of consumers’ attitudes and perceptions about hotels’ green practices.

Findings suggest that hotels need to be watchful so that consumers do not become skeptical. Therefore, it is of utmost importance that managers do everything possible to give customers no room for doubt. Hoteliers need to spend more effort in installing comprehensive green programs and make true green claims by keeping the potential consequences of greenwashing in mind. Hoteliers also need to seek out third-party certifications that require the hotel to meet certain standards, which will help ensure credibility in the eyes of consumers.

Hospitality literature has seldom explored this gray area of green marketing, and, in this regard, this study serves as a guide to hoteliers and researchers alike. The authors thereby anticipate that this study would encourage more research in this often overlooked but highly important area.