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Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Natalie Ishmael, Anura Fernando, Sonja Andrew and Lindsey Waterton Taylor

This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of…

7139

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of combining yarn interlocking with yarn interlooping.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper describes the key textile technologies used for composite manufacture: braiding, weaving and knitting. The various textile preforming methods are suited to different applications; their capabilities and end performance characteristics are analysed.

Findings

Such preforms are used in composites in a wide range of industries, from aerospace to medical and automotive to civil engineering. The paper highlights how the use of knitting technology for preform manufacture has gained wider acceptance due to its flexibility in design and shaping capabilities. The tensile properties of glass fibre knit structures containing inlay yarns interlocked between knitted loops are given, highlighting the importance of reinforcement yarns.

Originality/value

The future trends of reinforcement yarns in knitted structures for improved tensile properties are discussed, with initial experimental data.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 March 2019

Md Samsu Alam, Abhijit Majumdar and Anindya Ghosh

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear…

Abstract

Purpose

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear rigidities change in woven fabrics having similar areal density. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the change in bending and shear rigidities in plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 18 fabrics were woven (9 each for 100 per cent cotton and 100 per cent polyester) keeping the areal density same. Yarns of 20, 30 and 40 Ne were used in warp and weft wise directions and fabric sett was adjusted to attain the desired areal density.

Findings

When warp yarns become finer, keeping weft yarns same, bending rigidity remains unchanged but shear rigidity increases in warp wise direction. When weft yarns are made finer, keeping the warp yarns same, both the bending and shear rigidities of fabric increase in warp wise direction. Similar results for fabric bending and shear rigidities were obtained in transpose direction. There is a strong association between fabric shear rigidity and number of interlacement points per unit area of fabric even when fabric areal density is same.

Originality/value

Very limited research has been reported on the low-stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics having similar areal density. A novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics having similar areal density. Besides, it has been shown that it is possible to design a set of woven fabrics having similar bending rigidity but different shear rigidity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 February 2022

Muhammad Umar Nazir, Muhammad Usman Javaid, Khubab Shaker, Yasir Nawab, Tanveer Hussain and Muhammad Umair

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Design/methodology/approach

Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed.

Findings

The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence.

Research limitations/implications

This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity.

Originality/value

Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 January 2024

Amanpreet Kaur Kharbanda, Kamal Raj Dasarathan, S.K. Sinha, T. Senthil Kumar and B. Senthil Kumar

Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study…

84

Abstract

Purpose

Through this study, four different types of woven fabric structures were created by using cotton/banana blends with a 70:30 ratio by varying the weaving specifications. This study aims to investigate the comfort and mechanical properties of these woven materials.

Design/methodology/approach

Taguchi L16 experimental design (5 factors and 4 levels) with response surface methodology tool was used to optimize mechanical and comfort characteristics. The yarn samples used in this study are cotton/banana with a blend ratio of 70:30. Fabric type (A), grams per square metre (GSM; B), yarn count (C), fabric thickness (D) and cloth cover factor (E) are the chosen process characteristics.

Findings

The highest tensile strength and tearing strength of the cotton/banana blended fabric samples were obtained as 326.3 N and 90.3 k.gf/cm, respectively. Similarly, the highest thermal conductivity and overall moisture management capacity values were found to be 0.6628 and 3.06 W/mK X10−4, respectively. The optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum mechanical properties were using canvas fabric structure, 182 GSM, 36s Ne yarn count, 0.48 mm fabric thickness and 23.5 cloth cover factor. Similarly, the optimized process parameters for obtaining maximum comfort properties were achieved using a twill fabric structure, 182 GSM, 32s Ne yarn count, 0.4 mm fabric thickness and 23 cloth cover factor.

Originality/value

In contrast to synthetic fabrics, banana fibre and its blended materials are significant ecological solutions for apparel and functional clothing. Products made from banana fibre are a sustainable and green alternative to conventional fabrics. Banana fibre obtained from the pseudostem of the plant has an appearance similar to ramie and bamboo fibres. Numerous studies showed that banana fibre could absorb significant moisture and be spun into yarn through ring and rotor spinning technology. On the other hand, this fibre can be easily combined with cotton, jute, wool and synthetic fibre. The present utilization of pseudostem of banana plant fibre is very minimal. This type of research improves the usability of bananas their blended fabrics as apparel and functional wear.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 February 2022

Muhammad Umair, Muhammad Usman Javaid, Yasir Nawab, Madeha Jabbar, Shagufta Riaz, Hafiz Affan Abid and Khubab Shaker

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.

Findings

The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.

Research limitations/implications

Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.

Originality/value

The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 July 2024

Sarah Yahia and Khaled Mohamed Seddik

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to accommodate the mechanical characteristics that comply with the spectra of active sportswear by taking the innovative features of double-layered fabric (double cloth) and polyester yarn. The research focused on blending two types of polyester: Renova® and polyester microfiber with different weave structures in both face and back layers for fabricated fabrics. Force resistance was investigated through several properties, the mass per unit area and thickness properties were also considered.

Design/methodology/approach

The research was divided into two phases. The first phase included three samples with the same double cloth structure and different weft materials to detect the most preferable performance. The second phase included three samples with the same materials and different double cloth structures. Several mechanical properties were tested in accordance with standard test methods, and the results were collected, tabulated and statistically analyzed using a chart line, an ANOVA test with a p-value = 0.05, a calculated least significant difference (value) and a radar chart area.

Findings

The results assigned that blending Renova®/polyester microfiber develops mechanical properties than using them individually, considering the increase in polyester microfiber ratio. The double cloth with different plain structures has a significantly different effect on the examined properties, except for elongation and thickness.

Originality/value

According to the radar chart area, the double cloth with a plain rib structure achieved better performance, and in the same vein, the results showed that the plain with a warp rib structure enhanced fabric behavior more than the weft rib.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1997

B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all…

1267

Abstract

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 21 September 2023

Yunchu Yang, Hengyu Wang, Hangyu Yan, Yunfeng Ni and Jinyu Li

The heat transfer properties play significant roles in the thermal comfort of the clothing products. The purpose of this paper is to find the relationship between heat transfer…

Abstract

Purpose

The heat transfer properties play significant roles in the thermal comfort of the clothing products. The purpose of this paper is to find the relationship between heat transfer properties and fabrics' structure, yarn properties and predict the effective thermal conductivity of single layer woven fabrics by a parametric mathematical model.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the weave unit was divided into four types of element regions, including yarn overlap regions, yarn crossing regions, yarn floating regions and pore regions. Second, the number and area proportion of each region were calculated respectively. Some formulas were created to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region based on serial model, parallel model or series–parallel mixing model. Finally, according to the number and area proportion of each region in weave unit, the formulas were established to calculate the fabric overall effective thermal conductivity in thickness direction based on the parallel models.

Findings

The influences of yarn spacing, yarn width, fabric thickness, the compressing coefficients of air layers and weave type on the effective thermal conductivity were further discussed respectively. In this model, the relationships between the effective thermal conductivity and each parameter are some polynomial fitting curves with different orders. Weave type affects the change of effective thermal conductivity mainly through the numbers of different elements and their area ratios.

Originality/value

In this model, the formulas were created respectively to calculate the effective thermal conductivity of each element region and whole weave unit. The serial–parallel mixing characteristics of yarn and surrounding air are considered, as well as the compression coefficients of air layers. The results of this study can be further applied to the optimal design of mixture fabrics with different warp and filling yarn densities or different yarn thermal properties.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 June 2022

Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani, Salma Farooq, Quratulain Mohtashim and Hugh Gong

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity…

Abstract

Purpose

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity. During the process of dyeing, the dye liquor comes in contact with the substrate; the absorption of the dye liquor into the substrate will be dependent on its porosity. The concept of porosity between the yarns of fabric is a common phenomenon; however, the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, ring and rotor yarns of 25/s and 30/s counts are considered as textile substrates. The porosity of yarns was determined theoretically and experimentally using the image analysis method.

Findings

It was found that theoretical porosity is independent of the yarn manufacturing method. In addition, 30/s yarn was more porous as compared with 25/s yarn having a higher pore area. Rotor yarns had higher porosity, dye fixation and K/S as compared with ring yarns. Dyeing behaviour was also dependent on the count of yarn. Specifically, 30/s yarns have higher dye fixation as compared with 25/s yarns. However, 25/s yarns were dyed with deeper shades showing higher K/S values. Also, 25/s yarns are coarser than 30/s yarns having higher diameters and cross-sectional area, thus resulting in deeper shades and higher K/S values.

Originality/value

This novel technique is based on the comparative study of the porosity of various types of yarns using the image analysis technique. This investigation shows that the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the yarn.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 27 May 2014

E. Perumalsamy, J.C. Sakthivel and N. Anbumani

The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to elucidate the stress-strain relationships of single-jersey knitted fabrics from uniaxial tensile test followed by deformation behavior using finite element analysis. In order to elaborate the study, high, medium and low tightness knitted fabrics were selected and deformation of fabrics analyzed in course, wales and bias directions (0, 45 and 90 degrees).

Design/methodology/approach

This study focussed on uni-axial tensile test of produced test samples using Instron 6021 tester and a development of single-jersey knitted loop model using Auto Desk Inventor software (ADI). The knitted fabric material properties and knitted loop model was imported to ANSYS 12.0 software.

Findings

Due to structural changes the tightness and thickness of knitted fabric decreases with increase in loop length The tensile result shows maximum breaking strength at course direction (13.43 kg f/mm2 at 2.7 mm) and maximum extension at wales direction (165.77 kg f/mm2 at 3.3 mm). When the loop length increases, the elongation of fabrics increased and load carrying capacity of fabrics reduced. The Young's modulus, Poisson's ratio and shear modulus of fabrics reduced with increase in loop length. The deformation of fabrics increased with increase in loop length. The increase in loop length gives large amount of structural changes and it is due to slacking or jamming in loops and loosening in dimensions. When comparing the deformation results, the variation within the fabric is higher and structural damage little more when increasing the loop length of the fabric.

Originality/value

From ANOVA test, stress and strain distribution was statistically significant among course, wales and bias directions at 95 percent confidence level. The values got from Instron test indicates that testing direction can alter its deformation. In deformation analysis, comparing both experimental and prediction, high amount of structural changes observed in wales direction. The used tetrahedral elements can be used for contact analysis with high accuracy. For non-linear problems, consistent approach was proposed which makes the sense to compare with experimental methods. The proposed model will make possible developments and the preliminary validation tests shows good agreement with experimental data.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 26 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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