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Examines wool/polyester blended fabrics with a view to finding the optimal blend in relation to suitable utility, surface and handling properties. Concludes that a simple general mixing rule is possible for use in producing the required optimum blends.

This paper aims to synthesise, characterise and find out the properties of a model dye for convenient union dyeing of wool, polyester and wool/polyester blend fabric compared with C.I. Disperse Yellow 23. The reactive disperse dye was prepared containing sulphatoethylsulphone (SES) as a reactive group. The dye was synthesised by diazotization and coupling reaction. Firstly, we synthesized azo dye intermediate I using 1-aminobenzene-4-sulphatoethylsulphone diazotized and then coupled it with aniline. The synthesized azo dye intermediate I was diazotized and coupled with phenol to give dye 2. Different factors affecting the dyeability and fastness properties of SES dye 2 were thoroughly investigated on wool, polyester and wool/polyester blend fabrics in comparison with C.I. Disperse Yellow 23 dye 1. Maximum exhaustion and total fixation yield using sulphatoethylsulphone (SES) dye 2 were achieved on wool fabric at neutral pH 7. The dye showed high dyeing performance due to its nonionic reactive VS derivative. The dyeing results indicate high quality dyeing properties

In this paper, the novel surface effects of fashion garments through CO2 laser engraving treatment were investigated. To improve the visual appearance, the wool/polyester blended fabric was treated with ideal parameters including resolution (dpi) and pixel time (μs). The physical properties, which include weight, thickness, air permeability, thermal conductivity and tear strength, were evaluated in accordance with international specifications. This study reveals the potential of feasible fashion designs through laser engraving. The computer-aided design method can open up new possibilities for green fashion design. It is believed that fashion design with rich artistic appearances such as patterns, colors and textures can cater for fashion industries and the process can facilitate quick responses to the market.

Ethyl 2-diazo-4, 5, 6, 7-tetrahydrobenzo[b] thiophene-3-carboxylate is reacted with malononitrile to give a hydrazone derivative. The latter product is reacted with 1-diazobenzene-4-β-sulphatoethylsulphone (PABSES) to give a disperse dye. The dye is synthesised by diazotisation and coupling reactions. First, it is synthesised with the chromophoric moiety of ethyl 2-hydrazomalononitrilo-4,5,6,7-tetrahydrobenzo[b] thiopheen- 3-carboxylate and coupled with diazonium salts that have the aforementioned reactive groups, thus yielding the new target reactive. The synthesised dye is applied onto wool, polyester and wool-polyester (blend) fabrics under typical exhaust dyeing conditions and their dyeing properties are investigated. The structure of this dye is characterised and confirmed by melting point, elemental analysis, infrared, ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy (UV/VIS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (¹H-NMR) data. The dyeing of polyester, wool and polyester/wool blend fabrics with a reactive disperse dye gives very good build up and fastness properties by using a nonionic vinylsulphone (VS) derivative, which increases the substantivity of the dye towards wool fabric. Maximum exhaustion as well as total fixation efficiency by using a sulfatoethylsulfone (SES)-based dye on wool fabric is achieved at a neutral pH of 7. This feature of the dye structure significantly improves the union dyeing of wool/polyester blend fabrics with very good build up and fastness properties.

The mechanical properties of fabric longitudinal extension and compression, shear and bending have an important influence on the performance of fabrics during tailoring and also on the performance of garments during use. Fabrics are overfed or underfed in tailoring during the sewing operations in such a way that longitudinal compression and extension are allowed in the fabric plane in order to produce the three‐dimensional shape or fullness of the garment. Fabric buckling or puckering at the seams should not occur, or if it does, should be removed during subsequent steam pressing operations. An experiment is described to measure the maximum limit of overfeeding that is possible during seaming without the subsequent formation of seam puckers. The relationships are studied between the maximum degree of overfeed, the bias angle between the feed direction and the fabric warp or weft, fibre type and fabric mechanical properties, especially fabric formability defined as the product of fabric bending rigidity and fabric longitudinal compressibility. When fabrics are extended or compressed longitudinally at a bias angle to the warp or weft direction during seaming in order to produce garment fullness, the warp and weft threads are rotated relative to each other in such a way that a local shear deformation is applied to the fabric adjacent to the seam‐line. Measurements are reported of the variations in the local shear angle along the shoulder seam‐line of a men's jacket and the measured values are related to the high degree of overfeed required in the bias direction in this area of the garment. Finally, hygral expansion measurements for wool fabrics and yarns unravelled from the fabrics are measured and compared for six different wool fabrics.

The synthesis of a series of disperse dyes containing a carboxy group is described. The dyes were applied to polyester, wool and wool-polyester blend fabrics and their dyeing and fastness properties evaluated. The levelling and fastness properties of all dyed samples meet commercial requirements. The effects of the carboxy group on the colour, dyeing and fastness properties ofthe dyes are discussed.

The purpose of this paper is to highlight the one bath dyeing method for polyester/wool (PES/Wo) blend fabric with two different semi-synthetic azo dyes developed by chemically modifying the outer skin of Allium cepa.

Chemical modification is the most heartening way to impart improved properties to natural sources. Two different primary amines were coupled with the Allium cepa skin extract by a diazo coupling reaction. Synthesised dyes were characterized for their percentage yield, solubility tests, melting point, particle size analysis as well as FTIR spectroscopy and UV-Visible analysis. One bath dyeing methodology was used for application of synthesized dyes on PES/Wo blend fabric. Dyeing was performed at boil without any additional auxiliary and further percentage dye exhaustion was evaluated.

Dyeing yielded solid shade on PES/Wo blend fabric with satisfactory levelness in dyeing. The efficacy of synthesized dyes for dyeing of PES/Wo fabric was studied by wash, rub, light and sublimation fastness properties, which are in good agreement with commercial requirements. The antimicrobial activity of the synthesized dyes shows excellent activity in dye powder form (AATCC 147 test method) as well as on dyed fabrics (AATCC 100 test method).

Present research work is a first successful attempt to dye PES/Wo blend fabric with semi-synthetic azo dyes in single bath at boil. Such approach facilitates minimum consumption of energy, cost and time.

The press performance of a range of wool and wool blend fabrics has been investigated with the aid of a temperature adjustable hand steam iron, a domestic ironing board and a thermocouple digital temperature display.It was found that for a press duration of 10 seconds, the fabric crease angle is reduced with the increasing press temperature. The sharpest reduction in crease angle was found in the temperature range of 80°C to 120°C for all fabrics tested.At 100°C iron temperature, the fabric crease angle was reduced with increasing press duration until 20 seconds for wool fabrics and until 30 seconds for wool blend fabrics.The initial regain, or in other words, the relative humidity of the ambient atmosphere used to precondition the samples, has an important influence on the press performance. It was also found that the fabric crease recovery was greater for increasing ambient relative humidity.The fabric regain was greatly reduced during the first 10 seconds pressing time with further very slow reduction in fabric regain until 80 seconds pressing time. The regain in the upper layer of the fabric specimen was always lower than that in the lower layer.

The appearance retention of trouser creases, subject to tumble drying, for some trousers can be improved by the simple process of restraining the inner leg seam to the aligned outer seam of the trouser leg at a single point just below the crotch. The purpose of this paper is to assess the effectiveness of this approach on crease retention during laundering for a variety of commercially available trousers of different fibre compositions and blends.

Trousers made from various fibres and blends were purchased at retail and were washed and tumble dried as received, or after treatment (e.g. to provide shrink resistance for wool trousers or to improve the level of permanent set in the crease), with one leg restrained while the other was free and the impact on crease retention assessed.

The findings indicate that the use of a restraint device provides the largest improvement to the crease appearance for trousers constructed from wool or wool blends with polyester. Some level of permanent set is necessary for the restraint to function and an improvement in crease rating of up to three points (AATCC 1‐5 scale) is possible after five laundry cycles.

An effective prototype trouser restraint device, suitable for use in a domestic environment was constructed based on two rare earth magnets and should allow the consumer to improve the appearance retention of trousers, particularly for those containing appreciable amounts of wool.

The method allows the consumer to improve the crease retention of wool containing trousers, beyond what is possible through industrial processes, by using a laundry aid (restraint).

A controlled wear experiment which examined the wrinkle performance of lightweight wool fabrics is described. Six lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics were tailored into trousers and worn by six wearers in controlled ambient environments of 20°C, 40 per cent rh, and 25°C, 75 per cent rh, for two‐hour sessions. Black and white photographs were taken of the wrinkled garments at specific recovery times. These were assessed for wrinkling by ten observers using a scale that was defined in relation to two reference photographs. Fabrics were shown to have different wrinkle performance at the end of the wear sessions. Wearers contribute a large proportion of the variation seen in the overall assessments of the fabrics. The largest source of variation was due to the different ambient wear conditions during the wear session, highlighting the importance of this factor when considering wrinkling in wear.