FABRIC MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES RELEVANT TO CLOTHING MANUFACTURE —: Part 1: Fabric Overfeed, Formability, Shear and Hygral Expansion during Tailoring

Abstract

The mechanical properties of fabric longitudinal extension and compression, shear and bending have an important influence on the performance of fabrics during tailoring and also on the performance of garments during use. Fabrics are overfed or underfed in tailoring during the sewing operations in such a way that longitudinal compression and extension are allowed in the fabric plane in order to produce the three‐dimensional shape or fullness of the garment. Fabric buckling or puckering at the seams should not occur, or if it does, should be removed during subsequent steam pressing operations. An experiment is described to measure the maximum limit of overfeeding that is possible during seaming without the subsequent formation of seam puckers. The relationships are studied between the maximum degree of overfeed, the bias angle between the feed direction and the fabric warp or weft, fibre type and fabric mechanical properties, especially fabric formability defined as the product of fabric bending rigidity and fabric longitudinal compressibility. When fabrics are extended or compressed longitudinally at a bias angle to the warp or weft direction during seaming in order to produce garment fullness, the warp and weft threads are rotated relative to each other in such a way that a local shear deformation is applied to the fabric adjacent to the seam‐line. Measurements are reported of the variations in the local shear angle along the shoulder seam‐line of a men's jacket and the measured values are related to the high degree of overfeed required in the bias direction in this area of the garment. Finally, hygral expansion measurements for wool fabrics and yarns unravelled from the fabrics are measured and compared for six different wool fabrics.

Citation

Mahar, T.J., Dhingra, R.C. and Postle, R. (1989), "FABRIC MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES RELEVANT TO CLOTHING MANUFACTURE —: Part 1: Fabric Overfeed, Formability, Shear and Hygral Expansion during Tailoring", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 1 No. 1, pp. 12-20. https://doi.org/10.1108/eb002941