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Article
Publication date: 22 November 2022

Pengpeng Cheng

In order to study the static and dynamic comfort of tight sportswear in winter, the subjective comfort was aimed to be evaluated by collecting sensory data such as humidity…

Abstract

Purpose

In order to study the static and dynamic comfort of tight sportswear in winter, the subjective comfort was aimed to be evaluated by collecting sensory data such as humidity feeling, cold feeling and other perceptions. In this paper, the experiment was divided into standing, squatting, jumping, jogging, walking and so on.

Design/methodology/approach

Through particle swarm optimization-cuckoo search model, the sensory factors that affect the overall comfort were optimized, and it was found that there were great differences in the overall comfort factors under different motions. Then, analytic hierarchy process was used to sort the optimized sensory indicators in each experimental stage, and the influence degree of sensory indicators was studied. Finally, by the long short-term memory (LSTM) model, taking comfort senses of standing, squatting, jumping and jogging as input parameters, and regarding comfort senses of walking, lifting legs and resting as output parameters, the prediction model was founded.

Findings

The results showed that there were certain differences between the prediction value and the real subjective evaluation value, but most of the predicted values were consistent with the real values on the sensory level, and the overall prediction level was good, which meant that the LSTM model had more accurate prediction ability for subjective evaluation and could be extended to other sports.

Originality/value

The research results could provide scientific methods for the design of tight-fitting sportswear in winter.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang, Chun Zhu and Yan Hong

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the…

1078

Abstract

Purpose

Currently, the researches on garment development and wear comfort evaluation mainly focus on the static condition type and seldom involved dynamic condition. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to develop cycling clothes’ patterns and evaluate their dynamic wear comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the 3D-to-2D flattening technology was applied to develop garment patterns of a cycler’s jersey T-shirt. Then, 3D animation technology was used to simulate the scene of cycling. Next, a novel pressure-measuring method was proposed to measure static and dynamic clothing pressures in a virtual environment. Finally, the collected data were used for evaluating wear comfort.

Findings

Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort noticeably improved at the front neck, side neck, upper front chest, around back neck point and front shoulder, and the front neck. Compared to static conditions, the dynamic wear comfort visibly deteriorates at the back neck, below chest, outseam, back except around back neck point and around scapula, and the around scapula area. The dynamic pressure at back neck, below front chest and shoulder fluctuate wildly throughout the whole cycling. On the contrary, the dynamic pressure at the front neck, side neck, front upper chest and at the back cause it to tend to stability during cycling.

Originality/value

The 3D virtual-reality technology was applied to simulate cycling. And a novel method was proposed to measure numerical clothing pressures for evaluating the dynamic wear comfort. The proposed method can not only quantitatively evaluate the wear comfort of cycling clothes and optimize cycling clothes’ patterns, but also can be applied to other tight garment types.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 August 2021

Julia Wilfling, George Havenith, Margherita Raccuglia and Simon Hodder

Sports garments play an important role in the well-being of an athlete by protecting the wearer from changing environmental conditions and providing a comfortable feel. Clothing…

Abstract

Purpose

Sports garments play an important role in the well-being of an athlete by protecting the wearer from changing environmental conditions and providing a comfortable feel. Clothing requirements have changed in recent years and demand for apparel with a higher comfort performance has been rising. Hence, the purpose of this study is to explore consumers’ expectations and perception of comfort and to examine how different textiles are perceived by consumers to provide useful knowledge that allows to engineer comfort into fabrics and sports garments.

Design/methodology/approach

This online survey comprised 292 respondents, classified by sex, age, nationality and physical activity. The respondents were asked a total of 18 questions through the Bristol Online Survey tool to explore expectation, perception and preference of clothing comfort, specifically of sportswear.

Findings

Fit and comfort are closely linked together, both forming part of the clothing comfort concept. When purchasing garments online, the haptics of fabrics were identified as a crucial missing parameter. However, priorities of attributes within the concept varied according to the person’s sex and nationality. Women put more emphasis on garment fit and showed a higher need for tactile input, whereas men prioritised physiological comfort descriptors, i.e. properties which facilitate thermoregulation. Furthermore, there is an increased importance of physiological comfort parameters for people exercising for 10 or more hours per week. Finally, it was possible to identify common associations and preferences for textile materials (cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blend and wool). However, consideration should be taken concerning sex and nationality.

Originality/value

Sex and nationality are parameters modulating the clothing comfort concept and the conceptualised feel of materials. Therefore, the sex and nationality of the end-consumer should be considered during the development phase of sports garments and particular attention should be given to the targeted market in which these will be sold.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 26 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 April 2024

Youngsook Kim and Fatma Baytar

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Abstract

Purpose

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Findings

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

Originality/value

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 January 2020

Song-Rui Liu, Xiao-Qun Dai and Yan Hong

The water evaporation rate (WER) is not only crucial for fabric drying, but also an important parameter affecting cooling from a body wearing sweat wetted clothing. The purpose of…

Abstract

Purpose

The water evaporation rate (WER) is not only crucial for fabric drying, but also an important parameter affecting cooling from a body wearing sweat wetted clothing. The purpose of this paper is to predict the WERs of wet textile materials in a pre-defined environment.

Design/methodology/approach

The maximum water evaporation rate (WERmax) from a saturated surface in a pre-defined environment was first predicted based on the Lewis relationship between the evaporative and the convective heat transfer in this paper. The prediction results were validated by the comparisons with experimental measurements in various environments obtained in this paper and reported in the literature.

Findings

Experiment results show that the ratios of WERs to WERmax are lower than 100 percent but higher than 50 percent, which confirmed that the prediction of WERmax is reliable. The temperature decrease of the wet material surface due to evaporation was considered to account for the difference between measured WERs and the WERmax, and the WER variation among materials. The lower ratios of WERs to WERmax in the higher wind condition were speculated to be due to the greater temperature decrease caused by the increased evaporation.

Practical implications

It provides a reliable way to obtain both WERmax and WER (WERmax multiplied by a proper ratio), which can be useful in clothing physiological modeling to predict clothing comfort.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the understanding of the evaporation process of textile materials.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Heeran Lee, Kyunghi Hong and Yejin Lee

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various…

Abstract

Purpose

The seams of slim fit outdoor pants can be uncomfortable or even restrict body movement. To reduce discomfort, the authors need to determine optimal cutting lines in various designs that do not interfere with body movement. The purpose of this paper is to apply skin deformation mapping during movement to the ergonomic design of outdoor pants, focusing in particular on the 2D pattern generation of the crotch area in a 3D shape during movement.

Design/methodology/approach

A 3D shape and skin length deformation of the lower body were observed, including the crotch area, which is difficult to examine on the human body. To design ergonomic and streamlined outdoor pants, the authors selected seam lines where the changes in skin deformation are at their minimum based on the skin deformation mapping. In addition, the inseam along the medial thigh close to the crotch was removed to adjust the skin length of these areas, thereby increasing the extensible area of fabric necessary to adjust to a skin deformation. After selecting the seam lines, each of the 3D pattern blocks was generated by means of a 2D flattening method. In addition, the stress distribution of overlapped replica blocks along the crotch line during the 2D flattening process is a main independent factor to avoid deteriorating lower body movement as well as a good appearance.

Findings

Based on the results of skin deformation mapping of a human subject, this study suggested that it is best that the design line crosses where there is no skin deformation possible. And the pants were developed without the inner seam line at the upper medial thigh because of skin deformation of a large range of ±6 percent in the upper medial thigh during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. In a wear test, the developed 3D pattern without an inseam was rated higher than that with an inseam. This verified that removing the inseam, to prevent skin deformation of the medial upper thigh during knee flexion and squatting, is a logical decision. Regarding the correction of the overlapping area during arrangement of the replica, the appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 percent of the overlapping area was distributed near the point of the error source, which is the front of the male’s crotch line.

Originality/value

In this study, the crotch area, which has been difficult to observe in previous studies, were observed thoroughly and it was found that the length of the crotch curve did not increase during movement. In addition, skin deformation was mapped during a 90° knee flexion or in the squatting down position. It is expected that the overall process of developing 3D streamlined outdoor pants from 3D skin deformation mapping can be expanded to the development of patterns for other customized functional pants.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2022

Shuyang Li, Shu Jiang, Miao Tian, Yun Su and Jun Li

The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding of the research progress, hotspots and future trends in the field of functional clothing.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding of the research progress, hotspots and future trends in the field of functional clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

The records of 4,153 pieces of literature related to functional clothing were retrieved from Web of Science by using a comprehensive retrieval strategy. A piece of software, CiteSpace was used as a tool to visualize the results of specific terms, such as author, institution and keyword. By analyzing the knowledge maps with several indicators, the intellectual basis and research fronts for the functional clothing domain could then be demonstrated.

Findings

The result indicated that functional clothing was a popular research field, with approximately 500 papers published worldwide in 2020. Its main research area was material science and involved public environmental and occupational health, engineering, etc. showing the characteristic of multi-interdisciplinary. Textile Research Journal and International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology were the top two journals in this field. The USA, China, Australia, England and Germany have been active and frequently cooperating with each other. Donghua University, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and NASA, with the largest number of publications, were identified as the main research drivers. According to the co-citation analysis, thermal stress, nanogenerator and electrospinning were the topics of most cited articles during the past 20 years.

Practical implications

The findings identified smart clothing and protective clothing to be the research frontiers in the field of functional clothing, which deserved further study in the future.

Originality/value

The outcomes offered an overview of the research status and future trends of the functional clothing field. It could not only provide scholars with convenience in identifying research hotspots and building potential cooperation in the follow-up research, but also assist beginners in searching core scholars and literature of great significance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang and Yan Hong

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to find out the main factors that influence wearing comfort and how they influence garment-wearing comfort.

Design/methodology/approach

Overall, 120 postures were extracted from the activities of daily life and work. Then, the numerical values of clothing pressure of these postures were measured using three-dimension virtual-reality technology. Finally, the data mining technology was applied to analyze the collected data.

Findings

The wearing comfort of pants is mainly influenced by four factors – waist-hip factor, knee-shank factor, crotch factor and thigh-calf factor – and their contributions account for 39.17, 16.4, 13.96 and 6.95 percent, respectively. Hip, waist, crotch and knee influence wearing comfort significantly, and the part below the knee and the part of back thigh have no obvious effect on wearing comfort. Furthermore, the wearing comfort is acceptable if the numerical clothing pressures are below 20 kPa at the parts of hip, waist and crotch and below 10 kPa at the parts of back thigh, knee and shank.

Originality/value

The paper demonstrates how different human body parts influence garment-wearing comfort. All of the results in this research facilitate pattern design of pants and quantitative evaluation of garment-wearing comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 September 2015

Rui Dan, Xuerong Fan, Zhen Shi and Mei Zhang

The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to appraise pressure comfort through displacement distribution, and then explore the relationship between pressure and stiffness…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to appraise pressure comfort through displacement distribution, and then explore the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of the top part of men’s socks using finite element method.

Design/methodology/approach

Through 3D body scanning, a biomechanical lower leg cross-section model is constructed for simulating elastic contact between human body and top part of socks. The human body is regarded as an elastomer and the contact between lower leg and top part of socks is elastic contact, displacement distribution tendency under pressure can be obtained using ANSYS, and the elastic elongation of top part of socks after putting on was calculated based on the displacement values. In this research work, the authors discuss in details with the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of top part of socks.

Findings

In this research work, the mathematical equation of pressure is obtained which describe the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of top part of socks. The results indicated that the predictive values of pressure show good agreement with measured ones after χ2 test. All these solutions supply a theory basis for forecasting of the clothing pressure.

Research limitations/implications

This paper is unconcerned with the simulating of pressure distribution and variation trend when dressing during the course of walking and running.

Originality/value

The paper provides a finite element simulation model of lower leg cross-section located at the top part of men’s socks, and study the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of top part of socks. It can supply a new method to appraise pressure comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 August 2022

Wei Yin

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Abstract

Purpose

Zoning design of pressure comfort of women's shaping pants is studied in this paper based on the new material made by the LRJ40/1F warp-knitting machine.

Design/methodology/approach

According to the distribution of body fat and the pressure comfort range of the shaping pants, zoning design is carried out. The pressure comfort of the women's shaping pants is tested by the objective pressure test and the subjective evaluation method.

Findings

The result is that using the method of zoning design can satisfy the comfort of the lower limbs while improving the mobility and plasticity.

Originality/value

Pressure comfort has become an important index to evaluate the comfort of elastic shaping pants. However, there were very few studies on the relationship between the pressure comfort of warp-knitted elastic pants and the design of jacquard organization in China and abroad.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of 124